F-350 Hi-Lift build tips thread.

[JasonInAugusta]

Since this is a tech thread, please keep this thread for build tips and questions only. There is already a F-350 discussion in Chit-Chat.


When you build this truck, don't get in a rush. Each step in the manual is fairly "busy". Pay attention, take your time, and have fun building this one. ;-)


Here's a few little things I did along the way while building my Hi-Lift:



My input shaft to the transmission (BA29, Gear shaft A) was bent near the step on the threaded end. There's a shoulder right next to a thru hole. This point (to me) seems to be a weak point and a spot where it'd be easy to have a tweaked shaft without noticing it. I didn't notice mine was bent until the tranny was assembled and in the chassis. My indicator was the lock nut rotating all over the place.




The kit manual says to use a 2 leaf pack for the "soft" setting. The two leaves consist of the main leaf with eyes and a 2nd leaf that extends nearly the entire length of the main leaf. I chose to use the shortest add-a-leaf in the bag as my 2nd.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350leaf.jpg


One way to prevent axle wrap while running a soft leaf spring pack is to take one of the 4-link mounts (L1, L10) and attach it vertically to the rear axle next to the diff housing. I used two of the included 30mm or so screws to pass through part L1 as well as the axle housing. Since the tabs on the four link mount (L1) are a bit wider than the axle is deep, I used a couple of 3mm nuts (small black nuts from the kit) to fill the gap. Just slide the nut between L1 and the axle housing and tighten the screw. Use a 3mm locknut and a washer on the remaining bit of the screw to lock L1 in place. Another 3mm screw from the kit was used to mount the traction bar and a short length of 3/16" brake tubing acts as a bushing for the traction bar and is held in place by a 3mm nylock

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tractionbar/1.jpg

Then make a small link that spans the distance between the 4-link mount and the screw for the leaf front hanger for the left rear leaf. To make this I used two spare ball ends from the kit (L9) some threaded rod (4-40 I think) and some 3/16" brake tubing as a sleeve. Sorry, no pics of the assembled traction bar, but you get the idea. Slide one end of the traction bar over the short 3/16" brake tubing bushing and tighten the Nylock.

At the frame end of the traction bar I removed the rear screw for the leaf spring hanger. I used a longer screw (30mm I think) to bolt a spare damper collar in place. The damper collar will actually rest against the lip of the frame rail, not agaist the "bed" of the rail. Install L9 to the collar using spare O-rings from the kit. Install a 3mm nylock to keep things in place.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tractionbar/3.jpg


Another view of the rear mount.
http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tractionbar/2.jpg



There you have it...no axle wrap and a soft suspension. ;)


For you brushless nuts, a Holmes Hobbies Revolver will fit just fine, but you'll need to flip the pinion gear on the motor shaft. The shank of the pinion will interfere with the cover for the input gears. I reamed a hole in the cover to make room for the shank of the pinion.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350tranny.jpg


The kit comes with parts (L4 and L5) to change the caster angle on the front axle. Although these are intended to be used on the front I decided to use them on the rear to rotate the pinion up a hair. Doing this will cause the tie rod on the rear to make contact with the rear leaf springs when the rear suspension compresses. The easy fix is to build two short steering lockouts and eliminate the tie rod completely. The instructions say to build one at the bottom of step 31 in manual, but parts are included to build two of these lockouts.


When you build the axles install a Traxxas teflon shim (TRA1985) behind the pinion gear so it meshes a little deeper with the ring gear.


Remove the tab on the pinion/spur cover that the shift rod passes through. With this tab in place you have to remove all the shift hardware from the rod to change motors or inspect mesh at the pinion/spur.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tab.jpg




Feel free to add tips/tricks you guys find as you go along.

[JohnRobHolmes]

You will need to update us with what ESC and battery you are running when you get to that point JIA. I will be interested to see how much strain 3rd gear will put on the motor and ESC.

Got your diffs open?

[microgoat]

Have a look at the leftover parts. They give you 4-link mounts ;-)

[EeePee]

I believe the leaf that is placed above the main leaf is necessary to control axle wrap. I used mine, and also the short leaf underneath the main leaf. The "Normal" Tamiya set up. However, I left the coil spring out of the shock. The rebound dampening with it in place is pathetic, and practically non extistent. Ready to run the truck has a small amount of sag.

[microgoat]

That's what I did, too. The anti-wrap leaf, and used the shortest extra leaf as the stiffener. No coils, and it's surprising how much that softens the suspension. I got almost 3/4 inch of extra flex just from that.

[rupps5]

You can use a half leaf that runs from the shackles to the front attachment point to lessen axle rap. And that would not add spring rate

[xjman]

Cool info. I'm defentally gonna buy one. You forgot the tip to take off of work, it helps with having the whole day to play with it and get paid for it

EDIT Forgot my question. Will the springs with only the main spring become warped? I read somewhere that someone was haaving a probem wth this on a different rig. Also, is there enough room to use an aftermarket shock like an integy or somthing? I already have a few around and would like to use them.

[NaZ-T]

The kit is a blast to build, Just Finished mine a few hours ago. It is a little stff so I plan to remove the shock spring thanx for the tip.

P.S. Did you guyz use bearings?

[pigeonfarmboy]

Yeah thanks for the tips JIA made my build go alot faster since you found all the small modifications and setups to be made.

I wasn't going to use bearings but at the last second before building I decided I didn't want to build it again later just to put bearings in. Thankfully I live in LA and was able to find a shop with the right quanities/sizes needed.

[EeePee]

P.S. Did you guyz use bearings?

I bought twenty bearings, and that isn't even half of the total of 42 pieces.

[microgoat]

I used a big-rig bearing set from Hong Kong, and some 5x11's from my stash. There are bearing kits available already.

[JasonInAugusta]

I added another tip and merged all the tips I'd posted into the first post.

[Trikster]

JIA, do you have a pic of the ladder bar setup you were talking about?

[JasonInAugusta]

Added the traction bar images and how-to to the first post.

[Gula]

http://cgi.ebay.com/RK-Ball-Bearing-Set-Tamiya-Ford-F-350-High-Lift-Full_W0QQitemZ220024859083QQihZ012QQcategoryZ44028 QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

Here is a complete bearing kit. They get more expensive if you'd like. They only cost $19.74+$7.10 for shipping

[pigeonfarmboy]

Jason just curious what electronics you're using with the revolver?

[JasonInAugusta]

I was going to use a Quark 33 but decided to go with the stock motor and Super Rooster for now.

[pigeonfarmboy]

Yeah I forgot to pick up a UBEC and the Mamba definitely can't handle powering both servos. The bit I drove the truck with the Revolver I'm pretty happy with it and it didn't operate any hotter than the TLT in 1st and 2nd. (I didn't run it much in 3rd)

[microgoat]

I'm gonna one-up your gear-cover mod, JIA :mrgreen: I don't even have to take the servo out to access the motor 8)

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

Yeah I forgot to pick up a UBEC and the Mamba definitely can't handle powering both servos. The bit I drove the truck with the Revolver I'm pretty happy with it and it didn't operate any hotter than the TLT in 1st and 2nd. (I didn't run it much in 3rd)

Wierd, my mamba works fine w/2 servos. Albeit, a JR 290 & Z590. Don't need much for the shifting.

[pigeonfarmboy]

Forgot the Hitec 5996TG is a pig. Put in a lesser servo and it's all good.

[EeePee]

The instructions have only two screws holding the shifting servo in place. It didn't take long for the servo to become loose. I suggest using four.

My travel adjust on the DX3 is set at 48.

[Insanity]

what are you guys using for radios, i just got my truck and bought an attack radio but its not as nice as my spektrum radio

[mudrinner4ever]

the spectrum is RELE nice i just wish i had the money to buy another receiver for it. instead i bought a Hitec 4 channel for the same price as one rx for the spectrum.

[Warn Off Road]

SPRING TIP

This truck is very nose heavy, somthing like 70/30. Use a ligher seconddary spring in the rear or the front will sag pretty good.

[NaZ-T]

I'll be using my M11 cause I can rob an RX out of one of my other cars but plan on getting an Attack 4wd to add to the realism.

Anyone try using a clod body yet? I've got one sitting around, I might try it out. Anyone have pics of the rig with different tires and wheels?

[microgoat]

I'm using my JR R-1. The third channel is so versatile it's insane. 1-stop, 2-stop (for the Hi-lift and other 3-speeds), 5-stop, 7-stop or fully proportional, assignable to any button or rocker switch :mrgreen:

Too bad they don't make it any more :cry:

[Insanity]

So it sounds like the radio I bought is the right one. I guess i have to pick up another reciever so i can put it in my gecko too

[EeePee]

I noticed something funny happening when the right front tire was up on a rock. The truck wouldn't steer to the left sometimes.

I found the upper leaf was blocking the steering arm. I did two things at this point. I added in the caster blocks to the front axle because it was actually leaning forward from the springs taking on a new arc, and zip tied the two leafs together. Now I've got a good caster angle, and leaf spring clearance for the steering arm.

In the first picture you can see the main leaf is slightly bent, causing the axle to lean forward. Which is terrible for straight line stability.

You can almost make out the difference in where the yoke is located also.

8)

[mulletman427]

Couple of things for you guys:

1. I'm getting really bad drivetrain binding from my build; every so often the truck just refuses to move (slipper clutch is doing it's job). Could it be the bushings? (my bearings never came in, so i had to build it stock for now). Or did something else go wrong?

2. My steering is jamming up if i turn hard to the right; the bellcrank turns all the way over and jams against the chassis rail when the servo tries to center itself. I'm using a Futaba 4WD attack radio, so i don't have any EPA (damn:x ); any suggestions?

3. Shifting isn't working too well; it sometimes doesn't even go into gear. That little shift collar doesn't have anything to stop it from turning when you shift to 3rd, so mine keeps skipping gears. Either that or it binds up really bad.

Hey, i'm a noob when it comes to 3 speeds; like i said i wasn't alive for the originals:flipoff: .

[EeePee]

Mulletman427,

1. My truck would suck in second gear any time the tires would get in a bind. I'd shift into first, and everything was fine. That led me to tightening the slipper some more. Tamiya spec'd two turns out from all the way tight, I'm probably at one turn out now. If it's not a loose slipper, you should remove the motor pinion gear and spin everything while changing gears by hand to see if there actually is a binding problem.

2. I had the same problem. I lengthened the rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Then lengthened the rod from the bellcrank to the knuckle. So I've moved the bellcrank's center spot over further away from the chassis. I should have posted that earlier, I had that problem on it's first run, and after lengthening the rods it never happen again. I think the whole steering system is way too sloppy. I've since gotten rid of the servo saver, and use a DuBro arm, and the steering is much better.

3. You mentioned your Attack doesn't have EPAs. If my Spektrum isn't set up right, not every gear works. I suggest trying a more inboard hole on the servo arm if you haven't already. The shifting servo doesn't need much travel.

8)

[mulletman427]

Fixed some of that stuff EeePee, but i'm still having nasty binding problems and shifting issues.

It's definately in the axles now; i found that the rubber plugs had been pushed into the diff and were dragging on it massively (i put both the plugs and diff covers on, and the covers smashed the plugs into the diff). I think the bushings are dragging badly as well; i've greased them several times, but it's not getting in there for some reason. I'll just wait until my bearings arrive and then eliminate those from the equation.

Shifting i'm thinking is now inside the transmission; the servo isn't causing the problems. I've moved it several times already, and get the same results; actually on the last move i lost second gear. Didn't have time to change it back, so i'll just futz with it next weekend.

Let's just hope nothing major has been damaged inside the trans, or i'll have to try and get spares. It almost sounds like the shift collars aren't working right, like they're not engaging completely.

I'll keep trying; it's frustrating a bit, but i'll sort it out eventually.

[SW2Kid]

I have a couple of questins:

1. can the stearing servo be put in the frint beside the shifting servo?
2. what is this that I hear about locking the axles with a grub screw?


Thanks

[EeePee]

actually on the last move i lost second gear.

Well that's definately not good, because the transmission rests in second gear. The springs inside keep it in second gear even if there is no servo hooked up. At least I think it did, it's already been too long to remember. :lol:
1. can the stearing servo be put in the frint beside the shifting servo?
2. what is this that I hear about locking the axles with a grub screw?
1. The shifting servo horn and linkage is right there. You can see in post #22. I thought it'd be a great place too, but that shifting stuff is right there. I'm sure something can be worked out. Move the arm and bend the linkage around or something.

2. A grub screw goes into the hole and locks one of the axles to the gear thing (technical term) and locks it all together.

[microgoat]

Fortunately, the tranny gears are the same as the big rigs (that's what the mystery gear is for), so spares should be readily available by mail order. I'd be really surprised to find a shop that stocks them :lol:

Mulletman, I'm guessing here: if you've lost second the fingers have probably broken off the long shift selector on the gear hub, the one that never fully disengages. You running a lathe motor with a tight slipper?

Cory- "gear thing"? :lol:

[EeePee]

Yeah the metal thing that holds the gears. :lol:

I think the bushings are dragging badly as well

Oh yeah, make sure your knuckles are on the correct side. I think these are the same as the TLT and they are in fact right and left specific.

I bet that's it.

[mulletman427]

Stu: nope, no lathe; just the 540 that came with the kit.
I don't think i broke the shift hub; i think the servo might just be out a bit (like it's resting out of gear). There's many adjustments i have yet to make.

First things first though; i have to find out what the crap is causing the entire drivetrain to be so bound up; something in either the axles or tranny (or both) is causing some serious problems with this thing. Like so bad i can't even shift to third without the thing bogging to a stop. So that's my first issue to sort out. i think i'ma sneak home tomorrow and snag it out of my room to work on up here at school; i need something to do besides homework, loafing, videogames, my girl....:lol: :lol: :lol: . Sorry, had to throw that in there.

EeePee: hmm, never thought of that. when i built my TLT axles i never had any trouble; guess i just grabbed the right ones:lol: .

Like i said, once i get it tomorrow, i'll be able to figure out what's going on.

[toyota_yes_please]

When I was puting my trany together I kept spinning the gears to make sure it was rotating freely, but about the time I got the trany casing on it I noticed it was binding in one spot on rotation. I took the casing off the trany and inspected all the gears and I found a shaving from the parts tree stuck in a set of gears. I have not idea where I was going with this....

[mulletman427]

Ok, here's what i found when i tore everything down:

1.) The binding was in the axles, not the transmission. Once everything was disconnected, the trans turned freely.

2.) If you are going to stay with bushings, make sure they get plenty of grease AND you get the knuckles on the right side. Mine were swapped, much like EeePee thought:lol: ; combine that with the bushings inherent lack of free rolling, and you get bound up axles.

After removing all the bushings and putting bearings in their places, this thing runs like a dream now; had it out last night to do some bashing and had a blast. I lost a nut on the steering bellcrank (Put a locknut in it's place) and had the steering arm to the servo come off, but other than that things worked great.

[perfictsib]

i have a question why is it you are all putting the shorter springs on top of the main spring, normally they would sit under the main spring (on a full size truck). so they should not catch on the steering arm and it would increase the ride height by the thickness of the spring, i know it would make the spring slightly stiffer to compress depending which leaf you used but it wouldnt effect droop travel.


got to wait for santa to deliver mine.

[zetecoli]

Quick question for all you brushless 350 owners, im running the novak super sport system in mine and wondered do you need to run a lower tooth pinion gear than the one supplied in the kit?

[EeePee]

why is it you are all putting the shorter springs on top of the main spring

The instructions said to. Seems to be there for controlling the axle wrap.

So there's the main leaf with the holes for the shackles, on top of that is the nearly as long upper leaf, then a very short leaf is underneath the main. This is Tamiya's normal setting. They include different length leaves to tune the pack.

I'm not too sure how well the axle wrap leaf actually works. Maybe that's not what it's really for? My fronts are becoming severely distorted. I'll have to grab some pictures...

[microgoat]

My 350 has the Novak Crawler system with stock gearing. A faster motor could do with a little less gear, but I don't really see the benefit to putting a lot of speed in this pig, unless you're like Eee Pee and love the sound of the plastic body shredding itself on the pavement.

Painting a hardbody is like painting a plastic model. Tamiya spray paints (TS-whatever) give you the best finish. Automotive paints will take more punishment and work fine with automotive primer. For a little extra shine and protection pour some Future floor polish on.

Tamiya's "normal" setting calls for a longer leaf under the main leaf. Using the shorty leaf gets you more flex without going full soft. Cory, your leaves are getting twisted because you like to beat on it too much :lol:

[EeePee]

Are you saying I'm being a little too rough with it? :lol:

No build tip in this post, but it seems I've got some slight bent action.

[toyota_yes_please]

I put zip ties around the main leaf and the leaf that the directions call for being on top of the main leaf. Kinda like a military wrap. It makes for hard suspension, but no axle wrap.

[JasonInAugusta]

For a little extra shine and protection pour some Future floor polish on.



If you use Future you're cheating. :lol:



Cory...how much air did you get? :lol:

[mulletman427]

So far so good on the redoing of the leaves.

i put them all underneath the main one and drove the truck for a bit; no trouble's so far.

A plus is i gained about a 1/2 inch of lift doing this; maybe a little more clearance for that low hanging belly:lol:

[william g]

i have a question why is it you are all putting the shorter springs on top of the main spring

Because of springwrap under high torque loads
just leaving leafs off makes it flex well, but the leafs bend/twist when torque increases

so by putting a leaf on top it helps support the leaf from bending yet allows flex still

[perfictsib]

thanks for answering my question, i dont want to start a big debate on which way the springs are meant to be fitted but wouldnt they still control axle wrap if fitted below the main spring.



wish it was christmas

[sleek6mt]

*** use the supplied thread lock on all the allen set screws ***

i thought i did all the moving parts with the set screw but the pinion from the tranny to the transfer case came loose n the shaft just spun, no power :(

caused alot of head aches

[JohnRobHolmes]

Tip #51

Buying the F350 does not guarantee you will have a new vehicle to play with. First you must BUILD IT!!

Mine is still sitting on my bench without steering or a body :roll:

[dezfan]

Tip #51

Buying the F350 does not guarantee you will have a new vehicle to play with. First you must BUILD IT!!

Mine is still sitting on my bench without steering or a body :roll:

I'll be glad to help you out Johnrob, I'll pick it up this weekend, finish it, and make sure it works.

I'll get it back to you in a year or two.;-)

[EeePee]

JRH, you living vicariously through a combination of Microgoat's Novak brushless beauty, JIA's unfinished metal box bed thing, and my beater? :lol:

Cory...how much air did you get? :lol:

Could have been a couple feet! :lol: :lol:

It might have been a crash and burn landing, thus leading me to tip number 52. Try not to take flight with your Hi-Lift. :lol:

Also, if you plan on actually driving your Hi-Lift, don't put the sideview mirrors on. I finally did for a GTG and not kidding, they didn't last two minutes! Even Microgoat's foldaway mirror mod wasn't enough protection to keep one from coming off. Maybe do his cool fold back mod, then screw the base of the mirror on, otherwise... forget 'em!

[Jeckler]

Here's a simple one
Step 29.
If you're not using the switch from your radio or the switch you have is too small to fit in R1 (like an SR's microswitch), then use R3 to fill the hole otherwise left there so dirt and crap doesn't get into the box.

Also, to help avoid scratching the bed when putting the body clips in, place a 3mm washer in the hole first before you put part BH8 in the cab. It may raise the post enough so the clip isn't scraping across the bed paint so badly.

I also had to put 3mm washers under the screws holding the rear bumper on so that the bumper was straight.

[microgoat]

The Hi-Lift ain't much of a jumper. It flies nose-heavy and tends to land on the brush guard. Doesn't really have enough speed to be a good stadium truck. I launched it off an 8-inch ramp a few times doing my 3-way comparison between the HL, XC and TA02: http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6198

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

Tip #56

Don't use both the rubber plugs & diff covers on the axle.

If you do this, the plug will be ripped in half & the part in the hole will be pushed into the housing.



**This is NOT from experience, repeat, NOT from experience.**


:lol::lol::lol:

[Redrum]

Tip #57+58

If you have an old Tamiya TLT-1 Kit laying about, or at least the wheels, they fit perfectly on the High-Lift F350 and are the same outer diameter tires as the stock High-Lift tires!

Also, the Juggernaut2 body will fit just fine if you cut the wheelarches and front bumper to suit/match the Highlift body.

Made a template from the High-lift F350 body and traced roughly onto Jugg body
http://ezri.unstable.org/~redrum/F350/F350%20023.jpg

Cutting out wheelarch roughly
http://ezri.unstable.org/~redrum/F350/F350%20026.jpg

After cleaning up with a knife.
http://ezri.unstable.org/~redrum/F350/F350%20024.jpg

Quick coat of gunmetal grey (Which was a disaster (for testing purposes of course)) + the TLT-1 Max Climber wheels (same diameter tires as stock high-lift)...
http://ezri.unstable.org/~redrum/F350/F350%20001.jpg
http://ezri.unstable.org/~redrum/F350/F350%20002.jpg
http://ezri.unstable.org/~redrum/F350/F350%20004.jpg

Need to also cut slots in the front bumper for the leaf shackles, cut the front bumper a little in the wheel arches and cut the wheel arches in the tray to match the high-lift.

[Hemi-maxx14]

hey guys. i was thinking about picking up one soon and i under stand you need 2 servos and i esc. correct? one for steering one for shift. but if you have 2 servos AND a esc you need 3 channles. dont you? but it says you only need a 2. any help?

[sleek6mt]

hey guys. i was thinking about picking up one soon and i under stand you need 2 servos and i esc. correct? one for steering one for shift. but if you have 2 servos AND a esc you need 3 channles. dont you? but it says you only need a 2. any help?

u need a 3ch.

1 for esc 1 for steering 1 for shifting gears

start your own thread bro, no offense

redrum what color is that? is the blue the primer?

looks awesome man, i dont know about the red wheels tho, never thought of stock tlt wheels :)

[Redrum]

The blue was the old color, bought the body off ebay cheap for a basher, I dont know if I like the red wheels either, makes it hard to find a good color (Candy green? :D ) but they definately give it a wider and tough looking stance dont you think? :P

I'll try do the rear wheel arches tonight so I can put it sort of together..

[Redrum]

Oh yeah sorry, the color is the Tamiya light gunmetal, its much lighter in RL, photo was taken in low light with a flash. I dont like the color :) Looks better than blue with red wheels though!

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

Tip # 62 - Body lift


Here's a simple body lift, unscrew the metal L-brackets that the cab scews into & place them above the spot you just removed it from. Face the L-bracket up. For the bed you just need a spacer about an inch. For added stregnth, drill another hole for the bed mounts & use 2 spacers per side. The side steps will need to be removed & the standoff trimmed or raised.

[pigeonfarmboy]

Great write-up in RCD Jason! I'm sure that it will help alot of people decide to buy this thing.

[sleek6mt]

Oh yeah sorry, the color is the Tamiya light gunmetal, its much lighter in RL, photo was taken in low light with a flash. I dont like the color :) Looks better than blue with red wheels though!

looks good, just picked up a can

might add lil metallic

[xjman]

Has anyone discovered better tire option. I need a little better traction for all around trail riding. I dont want to fit MOABs they are too big and awkward. I tried the stock TLT tires and rims and remembered why I got rid of them in the first place.

[sleek6mt]

Has anyone discovered better tire option. I need a little better traction for all around trail riding. I dont want to fit MOABs they are too big and awkward. I tried the stock TLT tires and rims and remembered why I got rid of them in the first place.

narrowed geos or claw dawgs

[JasonInAugusta]

Has anyone discovered better tire option. I need a little better traction for all around trail riding. I dont want to fit MOABs they are too big and awkward. I tried the stock TLT tires and rims and remembered why I got rid of them in the first place.


I narrowed Geos and took out a section of tread to reduce the tire so it'd fit a 1.9 rim. "thumbsup"

They're just a tad shorter than regular Geos and there's no huge 2.2 wheel crammed in them.

[xjman]

I narrowed Geos and took out a section of tread to reduce the tire so it'd fit a 1.9 rim. "thumbsup"

They're just a tad shorter than regular Geos and there's no huge 2.2 wheel crammed in them.Well, my thought is about brand, a few people have pointed twards Imex, but I usually hear their tires are on the harder non sticky side.

[rockrunner]

what might be a good radio to use on theis beast. i was thinking thetq3 but im not sure how that would do shifting wise. im looking for something in the 110.00 and under price range:twisted:

[Trikster]

It would work, but you would have to change the switch from a two-position to a three-position. Also, you would have to play around with the mechanical linkadge to make everything work properly. The how is up to you. :)

[microgoat]

I narrowed Geos and took out a section of tread to reduce the tire so it'd fit a 1.9 rim. "thumbsup"

They're just a tad shorter than regular Geos and there's no huge 2.2 wheel crammed in them.

I did the same thing with Moabs 8) They look like 49's, and I had to lift the body about 1/2 inch to make it look right and clear the fenders.

Also, I put the coil springs back in the rear shocks. After about a month, the back end started to sag.

[rockrunner]

for my final question, what radio, is everyone else using, cuz ui dont have time or expierients to do andthing electrical:roll:

[xjman]

Anything with a 3 position 3rd channel should work. Spektrum has been the most popular choice from what I've seen. I had a 8 channel I got from my uncle but it was too hard to program and use that radio.

[microgoat]

JR R-1 Pro :mrgreen:

[sleek6mt]

for my final question, what radio, is everyone else using, cuz ui dont have time or expierients to do andthing electrical:roll:

dx3 , futaba 4ch

[rockrunner]

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/towj41.jpg hope this pic works, but i was thinking abotn something like this but how do u shift with the little thing on the top

[rockrunner]

pretty sure pics didnt work so heres the link http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/towj41.jpg

[EeePee]

Neither of those work. And your signature needs to be smaller.

[ScGRaceR]

will this setup work?

novak xrs / trinity 4200 zap pack / Futaba S3010 (shifting) / Airtronics 94358Z


is there a more eco friendly set up....like do i really need a 200oz servo in this thing? and is there a cheaper servo to use for shifting...and do i need 90oz of torque for that?....thanks


btw i am asking this because i am about to order my high lift and all the requirements....


Thanks again "thumbsup"

[microgoat]

Maxx shocks will fit the factory mounting hardware, and give you more downtravel. Oil leakage isn't any worse than the grease leakage :lol:

I use a 3003 standard servo for shifting, and a 90 ouncer for steering. No worries with either one.

[Trikster]

Any chance of larger pictures? I like the idea...

[drksyd]

Got the pics worked out. Here's how my rx looks hidden in the fuel tank.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/drksydss/rx01.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/drksydss/rx02.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/drksydss/rx03.jpg

[EeePee]

An easy panhard bar.

[steyn2]

hi there,
i'm new here (and new to RC crawling)
i've been looking for a 4x4 truck for a while and i came acros this great F350. after some youtubing i decided this truck was mine so i went out and got one.
I loved the build and stil love the quality of all the parts but running around in the dirt i soon thought raising and softening the suspension more would improve the off road capabilities. so i went no-nonsens and redesigned the suspension with home made parts. i went with 3 link suspention and sprung shocks to get a soft ride with more flex. the tires i'm running now are temprorary, still looking for slightly bigger tires with better compound and thread.
today i got it running and made some pics, i hope you like em and i'd love to read any reations,suggestions and comment

http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/5637/suspdetailrdz5.jpg
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/1160/articfltb6.jpg
http://img327.imageshack.us/img327/8734/articlmu0.jpg
http://img324.imageshack.us/img324/9734/articruq9.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/345/eartharticil1.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2083/earthdivell5.jpg
http://img324.imageshack.us/img324/9663/earthdownqf3.jpg
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/2153/earthduckhq3.jpg
http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/9043/earthedgewk5.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3385/earthstallsideht5.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8420/earthstallgh8.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7972/normalfrpp1.jpg
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/1089/normalljk2.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6396/normalryc3.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/7091/suspbhq3.jpg
http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/640/suspdetailfar8.jpg


ps. i know it's not so scale anymore bu it sure handles 100% better

[BigBaller]

Here is the nicest basic off the shelf parts paired up. 24mm Proline wheels and 2.2 Proline Dirt Hawgs stretched slightly with "V'd" foam trim. Work pretty good for this application.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p12/Minnmaxxer/IMG_1068.jpg
"thumbsup"

[one legged machinist]

I found after tranny was together there was alot of play in it cause hard shift to third so I add two shims "tra1985" here is pic of where
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d194/oneleggedmadman/f-350%20scale%20build/DSC02414.jpg
it seemed that when tranny shifts to third bottom row off gears move back and the shift spool was hitting top gear so by putting shim on different end stop this from happening"thumbsup"

[cartronicshn]

what is the size/thickness of the shims?, i'am doing everything on this thread on mine before ,so i don't have to take it apart again:lol:

found the specs for the washers,

These are Replacement Washers from Traxxas.

FEATURES: Black teflon construction.
Used on the axles and in the transmission.

INCLUDES: (20) Washers

SPECS: Size: 5x8mm
Thickness: 0.5mm

[hardcore]

good thinking i like the high lift hope to soon get one for my self

[xjwalt666]

Will pede or maxx shafts work with the stock drivetrain? i lost one of the pins that goes trough the joint in the front shaft and was just gonna swap them out.

[cartronicshn]

I had the exact same problem, i lost the pin because the e ring fell of:shock: , luckily i found mine and replaced the e ring, so i guess tip# 1092089:lol: would be always check those small 2mm e rings for any sign of wear as the ea. driveshaft is almost $20.
I will check the pede sliders for fit on the hl later and post here my finding"thumbsup"

[xjwalt666]

mine fell apart on the first run. i have the driveshaft and yoke just not the pin

[cartronicshn]

Hey xj here are a couple pics of the pede driveshafts and also a revo drveshaft, i don't see why they shouldn't work although the hl yokes look a little beefier, all you would have to do, is cut the traxxas shafts to lenght, i took pics with the front shaft dissasembled as i lost an e-clip again and the pin fell out, this twice it's happened:-( , i wonder if anyone else is having this problem, luckily i have manged to find the pieces both times:) , but i will definetly put set of traxxas driveshafts as they are a cheaper and available alternative to the stock ones"thumbsup"

[Roobforme]

New here and to RC Crawling. Thanx for the GREAT tread . Just finished my F350 a few days ago. Still working on a few of the mods you mentioned though. I hate waiting on parts, especially when in a foreign country. Also, does anybody know how small a pinion can be used on the F350?
I'm using the following gear:

Motor: Novak Sintered Crawler
ESC: XBR
Steering servo: Hitec 5645(for now), 5985(soon)
Shift servo: Hitec 77BB (not enough torque), 5645(soon)
Radio: Spektrum DX6
Axles: RC4WD spools and axles in factory housings
Bearings: Of course!
Tires/Wheels: Factory (for now), RC4WD narrow 2.2 bead locks w/ Geos (soon)

As you can see I've got tweaking and rearranging to do:roll:. I'll enjoy every minute of it, as I'm sure we all do.

I figured out that the smallest pinion one can use with a non-modified trans is 14t. I've got one from Robinson Racing. I do have to put the adjuster screw as low as it would physicaly go, but it works just fine.

[Bobtail74]

I was wondering if anyone thought of the Associated MGT radio? I am actually considering it for my Semi but figured if it would work for the High-Lift it would work for the Semi.
For the High-Lift, my friend and I are using the TQ3 with a toggle switch in place of the rocker switch and it works really well.

[storm4710]

hey my name is Martin
i offroad and liv in denmark
i have been in to rc cars for many years
now i have a tamiya f 350 highlift i am working on 4 wheel steer with 2 channels(one front and one rear)
i am also removing the leaf springs
im getting custom made links from the local machineshop for a 3 link set up

and i was wondering if anybody knows of any shocksystems with springs that i can use for my project it needs to be around 4´(10cm) at normal highlift weight

hobe somebody can help me "thumbsup"

[garinx2000]

Hi JasoninAgusta,

Would you kindly share the pics of the tips to prevent axle wrap? I couldn't seem to see the pics or it has been taken out from the thread.

Thanks for the info.

Garink

[bbyrd22]

Hi JasoninAgusta,

Would you kindly share the pics of the tips to prevent axle wrap? I couldn't seem to see the pics or it has been taken out from the thread.

Thanks for the info.

Garink

X2, your pic's are not uploading.

[slobin3d]

I run my steering ahead of my axle, which I feel looks more scale and performs WAY better than the bell cranks provided. I've run this system on all of my high lifts but since I don't see it here I thought I would post it with my new Hilux"thumbsup"

You can see in the pictures how I have the steering and shifter servos setup. I Space the steering down from the mount to decrease the steering angle and improve bumps steer. I prefer to use the black plastic spacers that come with the TLT kit (the ones used to build the cross braces) but in this shot I just doubled up a couple of nuts to get the height I liked. I still have to put a couple of washers under the shift servo to get it to clear the steering servo and put on a slightly longer arm, for just a bit more travel, Shifts OK now but I want a little room to play.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d78/slobin3d/100_0473.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d78/slobin3d/100_0474.jpg

[sierradmax]

Pinion shafts are pulling out of the axle. Might want to drill and tap a set screw with a washer (on the end of the shaft) to hold the gear on.

[701 Technique]

I just finished my build and I want to throw on some axial beadlocks with some geolanders. The only problem is when I bolt the wheel on the nut just doesn't go on far enough. What are you guys doing to get around this? those axial wheels have the special hubs with the round ends and they are just to long.

[TEAM-JCJ]

I just finished my build and I want to throw on some axial beadlocks with some geolanders. The only problem is when I bolt the wheel on the nut just doesn't go on far enough. What are you guys doing to get around this? those axial wheels have the special hubs with the round ends and they are just to long.


They make dremels everyday! Grind off the end of the hex.

[Andrewavdd]

hi there, i am from south africa and i have recently bought my self a toyota high lift and find the leaf springs a little hard, not giving enouth articulation. trying to do a 4 link set up but dont know how to secure every thing. any idears would be gr8. thanks Andrew

[JBHardwear]

I GOT MY HIGHLIFT BUILT, EVRY THING TO MY SPECS, THE ONLY THING IS, I CANT DRIVE IT:-( I NEED A RADIO-WHAT IS THE BEST RADIO-WHAT IS A SHIFT GATE-PLEASE HELP ME GET THE PERFECT RADIO SET UP FOR MY HIGHLIFT- AND NO IT WILL NOT HAVE REAR STEER. SITES WHERE I CAN GET A RADIO WILL HELP A LOT

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/hl4.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/hl3.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/hl2.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/hl1.jpg

[701 Technique]

I GOT MY HIGHLIFT BUILT, EVRY THING TO MY SPECS, THE ONLY THING IS, I CANT DRIVE IT:-( I NEED A RADIO-WHAT IS THE BEST RADIO-WHAT IS A SHIFT GATE-PLEASE HELP ME GET THE PERFECT RADIO SET UP FOR MY HIGHLIFT- AND NO IT WILL NOT HAVE REAR STEER. SITES WHERE I CAN GET A RADIO WILL HELP A LOT

This is the radio i went with for mine, it works great
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/jvickers86/futabaradio.jpg
you can find it right here (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001378608&I=LXKJD8**&P=K)

this is a shift gate from RC4WD.COM, I tried to obtain one but unfortunately they are sold out, I emailed customer support and they said they dont know when there will be more available, I made my own out of the plastic from a DVD case, it works good, but not as pretty as the aluminum
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/jvickers86/shiftgate.jpg
you can find the shift gate right here (http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=433)

[JBHardwear]

This is the radio i went with for mine, it works great
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/jvickers86/futabaradio.jpg
you can find it right here (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001378608&I=LXKJD8**&P=K)

this is a shift gate from RC4WD.COM, I tried to obtain one but unfortunately they are sold out, I emailed customer support and they said they dont know when there will be more available, I made my own out of the plastic from a DVD case, it works good, but not as pretty as the aluminum
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/jvickers86/shiftgate.jpg
you can find the shift gate right here (http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=433)

SO HOW DOES IT WORK EXACTLY, AND HOW HARD IS IT TO SETUP?:?:

[701 Technique]

SO HOW DOES IT WORK EXACTLY, AND HOW HARD IS IT TO SETUP?:?:

Very simple, Ch1 is steering, Ch3 is throttle, 4 is shifting. what are you runnin for a speed control? I went with the Teken Rebel 2 and couldn't be more pleased

[JBHardwear]

Very simple, Ch1 is steering, Ch3 is throttle, 4 is shifting. what are you runnin for a speed control? I went with the Teken Rebel 2 and couldn't be more pleased

I AM RUNNING THE ROOSTER CRAWLER SPEEDCONTROL. HAD IT ALL READY. CH 4 IS SHFTING AND THAT IS DONE HOW EXACTLY. :shock:SORRY, THIS IS MY FIRST HIGHLIFT AND FIRST RC WITH SOMETHING MORE COMPLICATED THAN THE TQ3, I JUST DONT WANT MESS UP THE HIGHLIFT.:-(

[701 Technique]

I AM RUNNING THE ROOSTER CRAWLER SPEEDCONTROL. HAD IT ALL READY. CH 4 IS SHFTING AND THAT IS DONE HOW EXACTLY. :shock:SORRY, THIS IS MY FIRST HIGHLIFT AND FIRST RC WITH SOMETHING MORE COMPLICATED THAN THE TQ3, I JUST DONT WANT MESS UP THE HIGHLIFT.:-(

Ive heard those roosters are pretty bada$$. The only reason i know this stuff is because i just built a highlift hilux and I figured it all out by asking people on this forum, so dont worry about it. shifting is done with the left stick. Left is highway, middle is 2nd gear, and right is low. you just move the stick to the side or keep it in the middle and move it forward to accelerate once you are in gear. the shift-gate helps you to not switch gears once you are accelerating because its bad for the tranny

[JBHardwear]

Ive heard those roosters are pretty bada$$. The only reason i know this stuff is because i just built a highlift hilux and I figured it all out by asking people on this forum, so dont worry about it. shifting is done with the left stick. Left is highway, middle is 2nd gear, and right is low. you just move the stick to the side or keep it in the middle and move it forward to accelerate once you are in gear. the shift-gate helps you to not switch gears once you are accelerating because its bad for the tranny

thats what i needed to know, so i just add a 4ch radio and receiver with shift gate and go, no set up

[JBHardwear]

I RECENTLY PURCHASED THIS HIGH LIFT USED AND GOT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER WITH THE PARTS SUPPLIED BY THE SELLER, BUT I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS I HOPE SOMEONE CAN HELP ME WITH. DAN ANYONE TELL ME WHY MY HIGH LIFT SITS SO HIGH, WHAT DO I NEED TO GET IT BACK DOWN SO THE 1.9 TIRES LOOK SCALE AGAIN AND IF I NEED TO BUY SOMETHING FOR THIS, WHERE CAN I BUY IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/AXIALAX10BUILD018.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/AXIALAX10BUILD019.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/AXIALAX10BUILD020.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/AXIALAX10BUILD021.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/AXIALAX10BUILD022.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r193/jbhardware/AXIALAX10BUILD023.jpg

[billzkustomz]

what is the most flex you guys are getting with the leafs?

[big willy]

is there any way to get better ground clearence from the high lift?

[MaxxCrawler02]

hmm this is wierd....for some reason i cant see the pictures on the very front page...anyone else having this problem? i can see all the others though....

[trailduster79]

Broke a leaf spring this weekend, so I guess I will be 4-linking one end of my highlift based blazer. gonna link the rear and leave the leafs up front.

Any pictures of where you guys mounted your links?

[JupeR]

Hello!
Im working on a 4linked Highlift and a was wondering, do anyone have .pdf for servomount?

[chevycrawlerSD]

i just got a f350 and was wondering whats the best lengths to use for the 4 link setup, and i only have one leaf up front and have no flex at all

[FodigoDave]

I looked for a 4 link system for my high lift also - cuz the stock leafs don't do much in the way of flex. I saw someone taper the top of the leaf spring (where it attaches to the bolt on the frame) and that gave it a bit more play. I'm currently converting the rear to a 4 link system but its taking time to create the right look thats functional too.

I had to grind down the fins on the inner axel to fit the 4 link plate I'm designing.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350oct12thwork025.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350oct12thwork034.jpg

I haven't made the supporting rods yet but after checking around - I found I'll have to make them on my own. I'll try and keep you posted on the progress after here.

[cartronicshn]

I looked for a 4 link system for my high lift also - cuz the stock leafs don't do much in the way of flex. I saw someone taper the top of the leaf spring (where it attaches to the bolt on the frame) and that gave it a bit more play. I'm currently converting the rear to a 4 link system but its taking time to create the right look thats functional too.

I had to grind down the fins on the inner axel to fit the 4 link plate I'm designing.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350oct12thwork025.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350oct12thwork034.jpg

I haven't made the supporting rods yet but after checking around - I found I'll have to make them on my own. I'll try and keep you posted on the progress after here.
:shock:, did you look for the dinky links from mudbauer? he makes them for the tlt and hi lift also, check them out, i have bought them for my tlt's and my hl.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showpost.php?p=952999&postcount=1

[FodigoDave]

Wow - that's beautiful - but I don't think those will bolt up to the f350 high lift. The drive train looks different.

Here's the update to the metal project. BTW - it was made from a decking bracket - galvanized steel - very sturdy.

I used the bed brackets for the right and left swing arm and i will probably fabricate a center bracket. All will bolt on to the existing skid plate. Not sure what I'll do about remounting the truck bed but will worry bout that much later. :shock:

I'll have to file down the screws but at least it doesn't require a nut ont he end. The screws mount directly into the threaded bracket.

Now that its essentially mounted. I'll work on the rods and then after they are measured and cut - will reduce the size of the bracket and then drill a few "cool" holes - add paint and should be done in about a month!:roll:

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350axle001.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350axle003.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350axle005.jpg

[cartronicshn]

:?:, did you search in the thread i gave you? and my comment also said i owned a set of those for my hi lift, don't get me wrong i applaud your effort and building abilty, but i just want to make sure people also know there are already made pieces for their hi lift.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1267516&postcount=145

[FodigoDave]

yes- sry

I was just looking at the pic. that's a great idea- I wish I would have found you sooner.

[speedemall]

Since this is a tech thread, please keep this thread for build tips and questions only. There is already a F-350 discussion in Chit-Chat.


When you build this truck, don't get in a rush. Each step in the manual is fairly "busy". Pay attention, take your time, and have fun building this one. ;-)


Here's a few little things I did along the way while building my Hi-Lift:




My input shaft to the transmission (BA29, Gear shaft A) was bent near the step on the threaded end. There's a shoulder right next to a thru hole. This point (to me) seems to be a weak point and a spot where it'd be easy to have a tweaked shaft without noticing it. I didn't notice mine was bent until the tranny was assembled and in the chassis. My indicator was the lock nut rotating all over the place.




The kit manual says to use a 2 leaf pack for the "soft" setting. The two leaves consist of the main leaf with eyes and a 2nd leaf that extends nearly the entire length of the main leaf. I chose to use the shortest add-a-leaf in the bag as my 2nd.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350leaf.jpg


One way to prevent axle wrap while running a soft leaf spring pack is to take one of the 4-link mounts (L1, L10) and attach it vertically to the rear axle next to the diff housing. I used two of the included 30mm or so screws to pass through part L1 as well as the axle housing. Since the tabs on the four link mount (L1) are a bit wider than the axle is deep, I used a couple of 3mm nuts (small black nuts from the kit) to fill the gap. Just slide the nut between L1 and the axle housing and tighten the screw. Use a 3mm locknut and a washer on the remaining bit of the screw to lock L1 in place. Another 3mm screw from the kit was used to mount the traction bar and a short length of 3/16" brake tubing acts as a bushing for the traction bar and is held in place by a 3mm nylock

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tractionbar/1.jpg

Then make a small link that spans the distance between the 4-link mount and the screw for the leaf front hanger for the left rear leaf. To make this I used two spare ball ends from the kit (L9) some threaded rod (4-40 I think) and some 3/16" brake tubing as a sleeve. Sorry, no pics of the assembled traction bar, but you get the idea. Slide one end of the traction bar over the short 3/16" brake tubing bushing and tighten the Nylock.

At the frame end of the traction bar I removed the rear screw for the leaf spring hanger. I used a longer screw (30mm I think) to bolt a spare damper collar in place. The damper collar will actually rest against the lip of the frame rail, not agaist the "bed" of the rail. Install L9 to the collar using spare O-rings from the kit. Install a 3mm nylock to keep things in place.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tractionbar/3.jpg


Another view of the rear mount.
http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tractionbar/2.jpg



There you have it...no axle wrap and a soft suspension. ;)


For you brushless nuts, a Holmes Hobbies Revolver will fit just fine, but you'll need to flip the pinion gear on the motor shaft. The shank of the pinion will interfere with the cover for the input gears. I reamed a hole in the cover to make room for the shank of the pinion.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350tranny.jpg


The kit comes with parts (L4 and L5) to change the caster angle on the front axle. Although these are intended to be used on the front I decided to use them on the rear to rotate the pinion up a hair. Doing this will cause the tie rod on the rear to make contact with the rear leaf springs when the rear suspension compresses. The easy fix is to build two short steering lockouts and eliminate the tie rod completely. The instructions say to build one at the bottom of step 31 in manual, but parts are included to build two of these lockouts.


When you build the axles install a Traxxas teflon shim (TRA1985) behind the pinion gear so it meshes a little deeper with the ring gear.


Remove the tab on the pinion/spur cover that the shift rod passes through. With this tab in place you have to remove all the shift hardware from the rod to change motors or inspect mesh at the pinion/spur.

http://www.projecttwin.com/files/350/tab.jpg



Feel free to add tips/tricks you guys find as you go along.


Can you please re-host the pics that were here? I would really like to do some of these tips you speak of

[twisted concept]

Also wanting to see the pics re-hosted if possible please. I need to see how you stack the leafs together.


Also, what servos do you guys recommend for the shifting and steering (metal geared of course ;-))

[cobrawes]

Does anyone know where to find the lost pics? I am building my high lift and would like to know.

[j33p3r]

How does the 350 go with the brushless set up?
I am contemplating the change but mine was a stock shelf queen.. now it may be time to make it useful! jsut wondering before I make the b-less commitment

I'm gonna one-up your gear-cover mod, JIA :mrgreen: I don't even have to take the servo out to access the motor 8)

[benzee403]

Hi Guys,

Don't know if you know this already but junfac made a 4 link conversion kit for the high lift. check it out at www.junfac.com it also shows a video of the f350 converted in action.

[oldschool53]

anyone have pics of the truck changed to two wheel steer

[FodigoDave]

anyone have pics of the truck changed to two wheel steer

I can only assume you mean front steering - the stock setup is front and rear steering.

Let me know if this helps but I took off the rear steering on my F350 (more for realism) and found you have several options as to how to finish the front steering. Moving the side duel steering servo forward gave me a place to store extra wires in a side mounted gas tank under the cab.

I found by moving the servo to the front (next to the shifting servo) you get more direct steering too [which is more responsive].
You can keep the axle's fixed wheel steering rod in the rear (next to the driveshaft) but by moving it forward the axle and swithching the steering rods, you'll have a tighter turning radius because the steering arms have more travel.

Sounds confusing - after I read it. Check out my thread iif you need more clearification http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140070
- you might see some other pics there that will help you but I'll take a few more if you need. I know I ran into a few hick-ups but nothing you shouldn't be able to fix and make work. The biggest problem was the steering arm.

This pic here shows the steering arm in the back of the axle. When I moved it forward of the axle, it gave me a better turning radius.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/ftsteerdirect.jpg


This is a pic of the steering arm in front of the axle. I had to cut a gap in front push bar bracket to accept the steering arm and locked steering rod.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/Marchf3503.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/brushguardcutP.jpg


This is how I locked the rear steering.


http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f350truss5.jpg

Hope that helps."thumbsup"

[trynacrawl]

wowtons of info. Thats gonna help me set up my highlift that I recently picked up. I'm pumped to modify!!!

[shadowknight]

hey
i have got a 350 my self and i have bought de 4link from junfarc and with that i also bought diterent axcels from the transmision to the diffs so that the flex cane get to the limed this al in combination with new shocks

[shadowknight]

i hae bougth de 4link conversion off junfac

[Makeready]

nice work!! Wow!

[FodigoDave]

Well, the 4 link Junfac setup certainly works great and is super easy to put together...but the center chassis connections makes for an unrealistic scaler attachment point - especially when you have to raise your rig. If you go custom, takes more time and hassel but you get a better low profile look with the same results as the Junfac (in my opinion). Junfac you keep the same trannie location but going custom is all about tucking up the trannie nicely and sticking to a stock look but gain more travel.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/iphonesept2009367.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/fr3.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/f35020092.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc150/spbarriers/rearsusp4pt.jpg