HPI Wheely King Build

[Skeeno]

My buddy bought a Wheely King on a whim and is now trying to convert it to a crawler. Here's how it started. He pulled the stock chassis and used some shock towers from a Mugen MBX-4 Truggy.

[Skeeno]

Next he found some links from a Revo and some AE MGT A-Arms to replace the stock links. It looked like this.

[Skeeno]

He replaced the Revo push rods with Revo toe links and used Jato axles for drive shafts. Here's how it sits now.

[Skeeno]

He still has tons of stuff to do to it.

1. Lock front diff
2. Get front axle and lock it
3. Set servo 4. Set batt
5. Build rear lock out
6. Install skid plate
7. Set ESC
8. Wire, wire, wire
9. Shim front/rear supports
10. Install new motor
11. Build front steering linkage
12. Set body
13. Hack body
14. Tighten all screws
15. Test
16. Rebuild
17. Test
18. reb..... you get the picture

Tomorrow we are going to work on the servo mount. He's mocking up a mount in solid works.

Yes, the motor is very high. It will be rotated to the side at some point. Right now he is focusing in on getting it running before he build a new motor mount.

So far, this has been made using existing parts. Here's the list:
1. Duratrax Evader
2. HPI Wheely King
3. Traxxas Revo
4. Traxxas Jato
5. Traxxas Stampeed
6. HPI R40
7. HPI RS4
8. HPI Pro4
9. Mugen MBX-4
10. Mugen MBX-5
11. AE MGT

[Gula]

What is it's current wheelbase? Looks good I like it"thumbsup"

[Ballistic223]

Like the use of different parts. When I first say the pic I thought it was a custom chasis. "thumbsup"

[Skeeno]

Not sure what the wheelbase is, but it has to be around 12". I can get the exact specs tomorrow.

[Skeeno]

1. Lock front diff
2. Get front axle and lock it
3. Set servo Done
4. Set batt Done
5. Build rear lock out Done
6. Install skid plate Done
7. Set ESC Done
8. Wire, wire, wire Done
9. Shim front/rear supports
10. Install new motor Sort of done, used a 55t, getting 75t anyday now.
11. Build front steering linkage Done
12. Set body Done
13. Hack body
14. Tighten all screws
15. Test
16. Rebuild
17. Test
18. reb..... you get the picture

The servo mount came out nice. I'll try to post the SolidWorks template and some pics later. It's looking good.

[Kingofthehill]

WOW.. very cool..

so what are you still using from the wheelie king?

JOe

[Skeeno]

OK...It's pretty much finished now. Here are the pics.

[Skeeno]

some more

[Skeeno]

WOW.. very cool..

so what are you still using from the wheelie king?

JOe
Axles and tranny. Links, skid mount, and servo mount are handmade. Everything else is from other vehicles.

[Skeeno]

Here's the other WK that donated it's diffs to make this thing 4wd. Time to get it dirty.

[snook]

looks sweet man

[lockeddiff]

i like i like...
so the tranny ended up bolting right in fine???
or did you have to drill new holes in it????

[Skeeno]

The tranny bolted in easily. We only had to drill one new hole in the towers.

[STANG KILLA SS]

what wheels are those?

[sportsman1213]

Purdy SWEET"thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

[RockDragon]

Wowwww! very good work. Let us know how it performs ....

[Skeeno]

what wheels are those?
Stock WK with chrome removed and painted black.

[Big Mike]

Not much of the Wheely King left is there?
Very impressive build. Great use of parts on hand...

[Gula]

That's awesome. Way to go"thumbsup"

[Skeeno]

Solid works info for the servo mount

[Gula]

What is the distance between the two holes the bottom links are mounted to? I might use a few of your Ideas on my build. I'll center my servo over the pumphin though. Thanks for all the great ideas"thumbsup"

[whip]

Hello,

Thanks, Skeeno, for posting pics of my rig. Also, thanks for the use of your tools and garage. I am sure that I came close to wearing out my welcome:lol:

I guess I can field some questions.

What is the distance between the two holes the bottom links are mounted to? I might use a few of your Ideas on my build. I'll center my servo over the pumphin though. Thanks for all the great ideas"thumbsup"

The distance that I have my front and rear links is 2.75". Keep in mind... these can be slid to any distance you want them on the axle. They are just attached to the axle via a c-bracket. I intially positioned them to the outer-most position, but it stole articulation, so I moved them to match the width of my chassis. I have very little torque twist

Some gearing remarks:


With stock gearing (21/90) and a 55T motor, it had waaaay to much wheel speed. The 75T is perfect with the stock gearing. There is a little working room with gearing. It is limited because of the way the motor sits on the gear reduction unit.



HPI sells a 96t (6996) and a 93t (6993) spur gear. Tower gives the dimensions for both of these gears and it looks like they will fit between the stock chassis (and my chassis as it is the same distance).



In the WK directions, it lists a 19t and a 20t pinion. I am not sure it these could be used with the stock 90t spur because of the clearance issues listed above. Some trimming might be needed:roll:

[whip]

Not sure what the wheelbase is, but it has to be around 12". I can get the exact specs tomorrow.

12 5/8"... which is just a touch long. Maybe they'll let me slide in the comp next weekend:roll:

I will probably shorten it to legal length so I don't run into any conflicts:lol:

[Gula]

What is the distance between the two holes the bottom links are mounted to? I might use a few of your Ideas on my build. I'll center my servo over the pumphin though. Thanks for all the great ideas"thumbsup"

What i meant was the length inbetween the holes on the chassis

[whip]

2.46" outside of chassis to outside of chassis (I have them mounted on the outside)

or

2.21" inside of chassis to inside of chassis. Links could be mounted on the inside as well.

Either way you go (inside or out) you might have to use spacers (2mm) to push the pivot balls out far enough that the links don't hit during articulation.

The inside to inside measurement is the same as stock because the stock tranny is mounted in between both the stock chassis and my make-shift chassis.

[whip]

The cool thing about this build is that the distance between the inside of my chassis plates and, utimately, the width of the stock tranny seemed to be a width the all r/c makers use... so everything I stuck in there for support just seem to fit (or could be easily spaced to fit)"thumbsup"

For instance;

MGT front suspension arms (spaced with 5mm spacers on each side)

RPM T-Maxx skide plate

and of course, all the spreader supports used on the original wheely King.

[themerc64]

Hey Skeeno,

Good to see your still at it. I haven't seen or heard from you for some time now. I guess since our PTI Goliath builds. Glad to see your buddy The Whip building up something new, it looks great! I was going to jump on a WK when they first showed up like we did with the Goliath. I have been busy building too. Go check out the beginnings of club page and look at my builds in the members section. I need to post up some more pics and get the page built up. Once again Skeeno, good to see your still at it..."thumbsup"

Eric aka themerc64, up here in the Frozen North... building crawlers like it's Santa's Workshop!

[Skeeno]

Hey Merc, Good to see you. Looks like you have been keeping busy. I also had a clod, the NN. I just sold it. I like the 2.2s better for the terrain around me. Keep on, keepin on.

[Natedog]

I like it, unique use of different parts...little too much flex though. :)

[Skeeno]

Took it out today for some testing. It passed with flying colors.

[dezfan]

I can't wait until the 4x4 WK is available.

Great build!"thumbsup"

[Skeeno]

We tested it and it works great.

[Skeeno]

more

[Skeeno]

The WK went vertical. Here's a couple pics to try and show how steep and high the rocks were.

[Harley0706]

Very nice, its amazing what you can make with existing parts. You should upload that servo mount up onto xdrive for everyone. There are a bunch of us board members that have uploaded all of the parts we have modeled for our crawlers on there. If he exported it to an IGES format almost anyone could use it, even people with just the dwg viewer that you can get for free. The xdrive stuff is on the last few pages on here:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20002&page=15

Oh and you should see if he would model the wheely king axles for everyone. We have TLT and Clod but we need the WK!!!

[Skeeno]

I'll let Whip know. I'm sure he'll be happy to do that.

[Nitroushane]

nice build up Whip. Looks good just like all of your cars. Can wait to see it in person.

[Harley0706]

Tell him that would be awesome. There would be alot of guys on here that would also like to have them done I am sure too. Have him or you send me a PM and I will give you the login in to the RCC3D xdrive account. Anyone can have it I just don't want to post it out there.

[whip]

Very nice, its amazing what you can make with existing parts. You should upload that servo mount up onto xdrive for everyone. There are a bunch of us board members that have uploaded all of the parts we have modeled for our crawlers on there. If he exported it to an IGES format almost anyone could use it, even people with just the dwg viewer that you can get for free. The xdrive stuff is on the last few pages on here:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20002&page=15

Oh and you should see if he would model the wheely king axles for everyone. We have TLT and Clod but we need the WK!!!

Harley,

Right now is a perfect time for me to model a WK axle for your database (I have my buddy's WK ripped apart as we speak"thumbsup" I have a little time issue with college and the comp coming up, but I'll get a start on it. When the time comes, I will PM you for the info to dl it to the database.



Nitrous,

Reno/NorCal guy? Sweet!!! See you at the comp! I heard there are over 60 pre-reg'd! Should be a good time.

When we were out at Moon Rocks testing the WK, the BPRCA guys let us run our 2.2's on the actual course during a mock comp. They wanted to make sure it was challenging enough for the 2.2's. I must say... it is gonna be a blast to drive:twisted:

[2low4u]

I like this build. I was just curious how you attached the AE MGT A-Arms to the rear ends. Also sending you a PM. Great rig by the way!

[whip]

Thanks for the kudos, guys. I got some PM's regarding how things are attached and what I used. In a bit, I will post some close-ups of different parts on the rig.

[NickRummy]

What is the dimension from pin to pin (hex pins) on the axle?

Looks killer!

[whip]

I like this build. I was just curious how you attached the AE MGT A-Arms to the rear ends. Also sending you a PM. Great rig by the way!

Because the MGT suspension arms accept a large diameter pivot ball, the inside diameter was too large for a 3mm bolt. The ball joint on the WK axle was 3mm. This posed a problem. I had to cut the head off of a 3mm bolt and JB Weld it into the end ot the suspension arm. The Integy MGT suspension arms came with set screws to secure the pivot ball, so I just used them to secure my new bolt.

The inside width of my shock tower chassis was slightly larger than the hinge pin portion of the suspension arm, so I just shimmed it.

[whip]

What is the dimension from pin to pin (hex pins) on the axle?

Looks killer!

Rummy,

pin to pin is 8.25"

I will CAD the axle in my spare time and upload it to Harley's xdrive... but it will be a while. Until then, feel free to ask me any dimensions"thumbsup"

[NickRummy]

I have a wheely king coming to me in a few days too so i'll be drawing up the axle also.

You said you used jato drive shafts for the center shafts? How much modding did that take?

I need a telescoping drive shaft that will mount up to one of these axles. I think the pinion shaft on that axle is 5mm right?

[whip]

I also started to play with gearing a little.

During testing, I noticed that it would kinda stall out when starting a perfectly vertical ascent (like a wall of something). It would only do it occasionaly and it felt like low batteries (even though the batts were newly charged). Once it passed the point where the rear tires were jamming the fronts into the wall, it would pull up fine. In this grey area, I would have to steer my tires back and forth and allow it to "walk" up the wall.

I figured my gearing needed work. At the time I was running a 20/90 with a 75T Lathe motor. I couldn't gear down in pinion any further due to design (maybe one tooth down if I broke out the Dremel and did some hacking).

In order to drop my gearing, I went to a 96T pinion (HPI 6996). It fit with room to spare. This raised my motor enough for me to drop down to a 16T pinion. Worked like a charm"thumbsup"

[whip]

You said you used jato drive shafts for the center shafts? How much modding did that take?

I need a telescoping drive shaft that will mount up to one of these axles. I think the pinion shaft on that axle is 5mm right?


Yes, they are Jato drivelines.

It actually took very little modding to get them to fit. All I had to do to get them to mount up to the pinion shaft on the driveline was to bore them out slightly. The WK driveline pinions are 6mm and I am guessing the Jato is 5mm, but flat on one side. Boring them out got rid of the flat side and bumped them up to 6mm.

After that, all I had to worry about was distance.

Even though the pics don't really show it, the front driveline is way longer than the rear (due to where I had to mount the tranny). The front is approximately 3-5/8" and the rear is 5-1/2" in length. The stock Jato driveline fit perfectly in the rear. I only had to cut about 1/4" of the female side of it.

The rear had to be extended using the "use two to make one" technique.

[whip]

I forgot to mention... Revo axle drivelines fit perfectly on the WK with no modding to the bore. I mocked it up with them, but decided to run Jato instead. Revo drivelines kinda looked funky on a 2.2 :lol:

I quess when I break one of the Jato ones... I will have wished I didn't take that route, but oh well :roll:

[NickRummy]

hmmm.... so the revo drive shafts are for 6mm shafts huh?

The truck I'm building will be running an hpi tranny that has a shaft diameter of 5mm and the wheely king axle in the rear and I have to connect these two together.

Does the pinion shaft look like this coming out of the diff to the tranny?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB46&P=7

[whip]

More like this (the flat sided end):

Revo axle stub ends

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/trac7454.jpg
(http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFY7&P=7)

[whip]

Here is a pic. This is what comes out of both axles (only the rear on the stock 2WD version) and they also come out of both sides of the tranny (both front and rear come on the stock 2WD version).

I also supplied a pic my Jato driveline mod.

[whip]

Tower has them on backorder right now:

Gear shaft:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000354270&I=HPIC8810&P=K

As far as getting the front end converted, the only thing that isn't currently available is the above listed part and these:

Drive shafts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000354270&I=HPIC8813&P=K

All the rest of the goodies come from the Nitro RS4 MT

[JasonInAugusta]

I also started to play with gearing a little.

During testing, I noticed that it would kinda stall out when starting a perfectly vertical ascent (like a wall of something). It would only do it occasionaly and it felt like low batteries (even though the batts were newly charged). Once it passed the point where the rear tires were jamming the fronts into the wall, it would pull up fine. In this grey area, I would have to steer my tires back and forth and allow it to "walk" up the wall.

I figured my gearing needed work. At the time I was running a 20/90 with a 75T Lathe motor. I couldn't gear down in pinion any further due to design (maybe one tooth down if I broke out the Dremel and did some hacking).

In order to drop my gearing, I went to a 96T pinion (HPI 6996). It fit with room to spare. This raised my motor enough for me to drop down to a 16T pinion. Worked like a charm"thumbsup"

Try a GD600. "thumbsup"

[themerc64]

Tower had the gears and diff parts already and last night the drive shafts and pinion shafts and universal shafts became available. I placed my order.

[Gula]

E or T Maxx driveshafts have a 6mm hole

[NickRummy]

I have all the parts to make the truck 4wd. I have a nitro mt and TONS of parts for it. I'll have to fab up the inner axles but no biggie.

That answered my question about the pinion shaft. My nitro MT1 has a 5mm shaft. I wonder if the mt2 has a 6mm shaft....

The reason I'm trying to get this to work is because I want to use a revo shaft. A jato shaft won't hold up to what I'm building. The revo shaft will fit perfect on the WK axle according to you but my tranny shaft is only 5mm so I'll have to find a way to adapt that.

[swhenrik]

Try a GD600. "thumbsup"
It does take a little work to get it to fit on the WK tranny. Works great once on there though!

I have all the parts to make the truck 4wd. I have a nitro mt and TONS of parts for it. I'll have to fab up the inner axles but no biggie.

Did you check out how I did it?
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54663

That answered my question about the pinion shaft. My nitro MT1 has a 5mm shaft. I wonder if the mt2 has a 6mm shaft....

The reason I'm trying to get this to work is because I want to use a revo shaft. A jato shaft won't hold up to what I'm building. The revo shaft will fit perfect on the WK axle according to you but my tranny shaft is only 5mm so I'll have to find a way to adapt that.

The shaft sizes from the MT1 to MT2 I believe are the same... but at the front/rear diff, the NMT1 uses a drive cup with shaft that the pinion slips over. The NMT2 has a pinion with a shaft, and the drive cup slips over it. To use the NMT1 (stock WK) gears, you also need the spendy little stub HPI 86810 like mentioned above:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/86810/86810_01x.jpg

The Traxxas shafts should slip right on either the NMT2 shaft or that stub exactly the same.

I was really surprised how the Maxx shafts fit perfectly on the WK tranny.... like they were made to go on there! And WK shafts are kind of short for a longer wheelbase.

[NickRummy]

swhenrik, you are correct about the nmt1 and nmt2. I thought the nmt2 18ss might have a 6mm pinion shaft (the heavy duty gear set) but I think it is also 5mm.

I know the standard maxx shafts are 6mm and the revo shaft is 6mm so these shafts WILL NOT directly fit onto any NMT parts. The traxxas jato drive shafts are 5mm and will fit on the NMT shafts but would need drilled out to 6mm to fit on the stock WK pinion shaft.

I did find some brass tubing that has an OD of 6mm with a wall of .45mm making the ID 5.1mm. I could put a piece of this tubing on the 5mm tranny shaft and then slide a revo shaft over that. The problem is I have to buy 10 pieces of rod at 12" long for $10 to get it......

[NickRummy]

I guess I should clarify that I am not using the WK tranny. I am using the tranny out of a NMT2 that has a 5mm shaft on it.

[swhenrik]

....on the 5mm tranny shaft......

What tranny are you using?

EDIT... you answered while I was typing.... Yep, NMT tranny is 5mm.

[NickRummy]

yup......

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/yellowfox/Cad%20Files%20and%20Renderings/newrearexploded.jpg

[norco kid]

Wow, that is cool! Very creative use of parts! Also, wicked place to crawl!!

[whip]

I guess I should clarify that I am not using the WK tranny. I am using the tranny out of a NMT2 that has a 5mm shaft on it.

Since you are taking that route, can you use the 5mm Jato drivelines?

[NickRummy]

I could... but I'm using a nitro motor. This isn't a crawler. I could use the jato drive shaft nd drill it out for the WK axle but i'm not sure it will hold up to the torque of the motor (os .18 CV-R)

[huskerfreak]

First time long time


I have question instead of using the Associated MGT a-arms would t-maxx ones work the same or is the length quite a bit different?

Also couldn't you adjust the wheel base by threading the bolt in or out on the a-arm?

[doctorducttape]

the t maxx lower arm is 5.3" the MGt is 5.5" so they should work though i'm not sure on the hole size

great job on this, can't wait till tomorrow

[whip]

First time long time


I have question instead of using the Associated MGT a-arms would t-maxx ones work the same or is the length quite a bit different?

Also couldn't you adjust the wheel base by threading the bolt in or out on the a-arm?

I mocked them up at the LHS. I used the MGT ones as they made a better battery platform.

Regarding wheel base:

Adjusting the bolt in the a-arm just adjusts caster. Though, technically, caster can only slightly adjust wheel base... it does it in very small amounts as everything just pivots around the lower links.

[whip]

the t maxx lower arm is 5.3" the MGt is 5.5" so they should work though i'm not sure on the hole size

great job on this, can't wait till tomorrow

Dr. DT!!!! Good to see you! I guess I will be seeing you tomarrow. Charging batts as we speak"thumbsup"

60 already pre-registered! You running unlimited?

[doctorducttape]

ok the stock tmaxx is 4.9" the RPM and Integy are both 5.3" these are the Dim. tower says

yep i'm running unlimted my battery is charged as of 15 min. ago should be tons of fun

[whip]

I could... but I'm using a nitro motor. This isn't a crawler. I could use the jato drive shaft nd drill it out for the WK axle but i'm not sure it will hold up to the torque of the motor (os .18 CV-R)

I have some old Mugen MBX4-XR Works front and rear drivelines that might bolt right on. What is the distance you are trying to cover? And what is your project? It looks cool "thumbsup"

[NickRummy]

I don't have a distance pinned down yet. Im waiting for the WK to get here monday. I can move the tranny forward if needed. The truck sits at 11.5" WB right now and I think I'll need to stretch it to 12.5 to fit the body which will actually help. I'll let you know!

[whip]

Try a GD600. "thumbsup"

I just talked to my buddy Skeeno and he said you hooked up his PTI with a GD600. I will check it out tomarrow. If I can drop my motor by using it... I will be putting one in:lol:

[tc3stocker]

I am wanting to either begin a rock crawler/ mud truck build up and this platform looks like something I could do. What amount, ballpark, do you think you have spent throughout this build, what parts did you have to make. I read that the second axle was donated to the project, about how much would a new one cost?

What size are the tires that you have mounted up to this rig? Also, if I decided to start a build like this, do you think you could fab up two servo mounts for me (I want to have 4WS).

Thanks in advance.

[whip]

I am wanting to either begin a rock crawler/ mud truck build up and this platform looks like something I could do. What amount, ballpark, do you think you have spent throughout this build, what parts did you have to make.


The only part I had to make was the servo mount.

As for cost? Well, this build was made out of stuff I had laying around. If you had to buy the stuff from scratch... this is what it would run:

$200-$150 for the Wheely King (depending where you get it)

$30 for the tires

$35 for the front axle

$7 for the MGT A-arms (I went $35 for the aluminum bling)

$30 for three Jato drive shafts

$30 for the 4WD conversion

$25 for the Revo links

$18 for the 75T Lathe motor

$5 Tmaxx skid plate

$20-$50 for some sort of 1/8 scale buggy rear shock towers (times 2)

$XX for misc home-made links, bolts/nuts, ball ends, spacers, velcro, RX, TX, speedo, etc.


I read that the second axle was donated to the project, about how much would a new one cost?


Yes... the guts were "donated" so I could get my crawler done prior to the comp, but I had to replace it (which I just did today).

(Be happy... everything just came off of back-order). Here is the exact list of the parts that I just received from Tower to replace the guts of the borrowed axle:

HPI Drive Shaft 6x82mm Wheely King (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXPZX4

HPI Gear Shaft 5x6x29mm Wheely King
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXPZX2

HPI Differential Case Nitro RS4 MT
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXTB43

HPI Differential Bevel Gear Set
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXM742

HPI Differential Final Gear Set Nitro RS4 MT
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXTB48

You also need some bearings. These prices are a little pricey... you can find them cheaper, but here are the dimensions:

HPI Ball Bearing 10x15x4mm ZZ E-Savage
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=b030&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

HPI Ball Bearing 5x11x4mm E-Savage (2) Buy two as you need four of these bearings.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=b022&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

Here is the universal you need to turn a stock WK into 4WD:

HPI Universal Center Drive Set Assembled Wheely King
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=85258&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go


What size are the tires that you have mounted up to this rig?


2.2 Moabs mounted on stock WK wheels that were narrowed, chrome washed off, painted black, and weighted inside and out. Foams are star cut.


Also, if I decided to start a build like this, do you think you could fab up two servo mounts for me (I want to have 4WS).


I have a friend (a machinist) that is gonna build a prototype. I'll keep you guys informed.

[whip]

Here are some pics of the comp. I got third "thumbsup"

[whip]

I really dig the first pic.

The last one is my buddy Skeeno's PTI going over the Bitch's Bridge.

[whip]

To start the day, it was wet and nasty. The wet sand was killing us.

I am sure pics will start showing up in this B.P.R.C.A thread:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57401

Two of the top three were Wheely Kings. KINGBLING's WK Tuber won.

TLT's finally got some competition!!!:D

Here was the course marshall (he lost a bet and, well, you get the picture, lol)

Here is just the amount of people on one of the three courses. It was a good maiden voyage for the WK!

[Ryan62583]

well this is my version i built when i started it i posted once before when i was more into the building it but now its about raping up. i still have not recived my parts for my 4x4 yet this week the truck is useless as a 2x4 its good for photos thats about it lol.


i use a stock chassis because u didnt no any better haha but its my first build but the truck is a good start i think the hardest thing to make was the servo mounts and the link bars bec i use 3/16" stainless and taped each end..

i still would like to get a water proof truck like the speed contoler and waterproof the servos and the reciver so i can stuff it on the water!!

i no the body hits but the re geared trans and the 65t motor dosnt seem to care to much! haha

here it is
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/rackerman62583/101_0031.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/rackerman62583/101_0030.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/rackerman62583/101_0029.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h232/rackerman62583/101_0028.jpg
sorry dont no how to show them on the page :(

[2low4u]

Congrats on the 3rd place Whip. Compitition musta been tough out there eh? Can't wait to start my crawler!

Nice truck Ryan!

[whip]

Ryan,

That thing is looking sweet. There are a ton of things I like about it. Servo mount, tires and wheels, body, and use of the stock chassis.

Get those 4WD parts ordered before they go on backorder again! "thumbsup"

[BrandonW]

very nice truck man i think the wheelie king looks like a solid start for my next rock crawler build.

[JasonInAugusta]

Were those pics big enough?

Changed to urls instead.

[Ryan62583]

you want them bigger? :)

[JasonInAugusta]

You want your account to continue to function? :lol:

[Ryan62583]

gee sorry didnt no it was a problem wow. you could have been a nice person and just sent me a msg that i was posting pics to big. i wasnt tryen to be a jerk i was j/k man easy....

[JasonInAugusta]

I was being sarcastic.

I have a limit on # of PMs that can be stored...no sense in adding another PM to the sent items folder when I knew you'd be back to this thread.

If I had wanted to be mean I'd have deleted the post. ;)

There are still folks on 56k connections, make sure your images aren't 2400+ pixels wide. 800x600 is plenty.

What monitor resolution are you running where an image that's 2400+ pixels wide isn't too big? :lol: I'm on 1440 x 900 and the image was nearly twice as wide as my screen.

[krawlinCJ]

Wow that thing is nice! I was waiing for someone to do a WK build

[Ryan62583]

I was being sarcastic.

I have a limit on # of PMs that can be stored...no sense in adding another PM to the sent items folder when I knew you'd be back to this thread.

If I had wanted to be mean I'd have deleted the post. ;)

There are still folks on 56k connections, make sure your images aren't 2400+ pixels wide. 800x600 is plenty.

What monitor resolution are you running where an image that's 2400+ pixels wide isn't too big? :lol: I'm on 1440 x 900 and the image was nearly twice as wide as my screen.

sorry i got a large computer screen its not 2400 its like what ever my card limit is its still kinda under what the monitor calls for. any way thats just how the camera pops them up i never resiezed them i will gladley make them 800x600 for now on sir!

[NickRummy]

You can actually resize them through your photobucket account. Just click on "edit" right above where the thumbnail picture is on photobucket and it will let you resize it to a bunch of different options. Works great!

sorry i got a large computer screen its not 2400 its like what ever my card limit is its still kinda under what the monitor calls for. any way thats just how the camera pops them up i never resiezed them i will gladley make them 800x600 for now on sir!

[kysavage]

Hey Ryan... What did you do on the upper links to make them come into one at the axle? I couldn't get a look at that in the pic's.

[Dervishboy05]

question...

was this an ok set up? could i run a wk just like this but with batt esc and recever or is there somthing rong will the drive lines fit? doest the servo reach because i like it just like this.

lmk

-derv

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=27018&stc=1&d=1169950101

[whip]

question...

was this an ok set up? could i run a wk just like this but with batt esc and recever or is there somthing rong will the drive lines fit? doest the servo reach because i like it just like this.

lmk

-derv

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=27018&stc=1&d=1169950101

That was my first mockup. The reason that I couldn't run it like seen above is for several reasons:

1) The geometry was way wrong. The upper and lower links weren't parallel, the caster was way off, and the shocks were so flat that I could just lay over the chassis and it would stay in that position. All of this could have been taken care of if I just broke out the drill, but at the time, I didn't want to poke holes in anything as the design was changing every hour on the hour :lol:

2) As you mentioned, electronics placement was almost no existent. Also, in between the two shock towers that made up the chassis was mainly filled by link ends and tranny. Putting a servo in there with the cantilever (just like the stock configuration) was gonna be tough.

3) Drivelines weren't a problem as there are so many ways to mod different drivelines that you can make anything work.

With all that said... if you got the perfect towers to make the chassis (or chunks of aluminum) you could find a way to do it. This build was completely fluid and if you think out of the box... you can pull it off with little or no problems. Good luck and keep us posted!!!

[96ZJ]

Wow the build looks awesome and super simple (other than the servo mount) Turned out great.

[Dervishboy05]

That was my first mockup. The reason that I couldn't run it like seen above is for several reasons:

1) The geometry was way wrong. The upper and lower links weren't parallel, the caster was way off, and the shocks were so flat that I could just lay over the chassis and it would stay in that position. All of this could have been taken care of if I just broke out the drill, but at the time, I didn't want to poke holes in anything as the design was changing every hour on the hour :lol:

2) As you mentioned, electronics placement was almost no existent. Also, in between the two shock towers that made up the chassis was mainly filled by link ends and tranny. Putting a servo in there with the cantilever (just like the stock configuration) was gonna be tough.

3) Drivelines weren't a problem as there are so many ways to mod different drivelines that you can make anything work.

With all that said... if you got the perfect towers to make the chassis (or chunks of aluminum) you could find a way to do it. This build was completely fluid and if you think out of the box... you can pull it off with little or no problems. Good luck and keep us posted!!!

Thank you very much for the response it is much appreciated.

I will be on the search for some shock towers that might work.

Basically what im looking for is something that I could use that would require minimal modification.

Im thinking that moving the servo to the axle is essential. And I plan on doing that now as far as receiver and esc those can go on the sides of the shock towers or chassis but that battery is going to be hard.

I do not yet have a wk but am much exited and love doing my homework on products.

[ben_smits]

really nice i think im gunna get me a whelie king

[cammok5]

that looks great

[Milotronics]

Dudde Thums up big time, You're the man!!! What a good idea, shock towers for chassis plates and A-Arms for upper links. I love it!!!! Looks like a million bucks too. keep up the good work! This site rocks!!! thanks to it we can all lern a thing or 2 from guys like you.

[whip]

Thanks for the kudos, guys.

The Wk has gone through a couple of changes since I last posted. I will try to get some pics up.

In its first comp, it did pretty good (third place), but I had to deal with a lot of torque twist. If I got rid of that, it would be a lot easier to drive. What would happen is that while driving up steep inclines, the front left tire would float up off of the rock. Nomally, you let off and tap the throttle and it sets the tire back down, but my twist was so bad that this didn't work. During the comp, I had to change my driving style just to eek by several of the stages.

So, to help reduce twist, I have increased the shock angles. But, of course, while it was all torn apart, I decided to go with the new rave of running without coil-over springs. This limited my twist as the front tire now drops via gravity, but now my chassis lays over... so I am going to either put some limiting straps on the rig or use a single spring in the right rear. I also plan on using a super light oil on the twist side of the rig. I will let you all know how it works.

[NickRummy]

I had the same problem. I ended up running more shock spacers on the right side of my truck. It didn't get rid of the problem but helped. I think possibly running thicker oil on the right side might help too.

[Natedog]

Offset your battery to the left side of the truck slightly and maybe stand up your steering servo.

[scorpion_king]

how easy did the ae mgt arms fit to the original upper mount?

[whip]

Here is a closeup of it that was buried in this thread several pages ago. It worked great and to this day hasn't broken or come loose.



Because the MGT suspension arms accept a large diameter pivot ball, the inside diameter was too large for a 3mm bolt. The ball joint on the WK axle was 3mm. This posed a problem. I had to cut the head off of a 3mm bolt and JB Weld it into the end ot the suspension arm. The Integy MGT suspension arms came with set screws to secure the pivot ball, so I just used them to secure my new bolt.

The inside width of my shock tower chassis was slightly larger than the hinge pin portion of the suspension arm, so I just shimmed it.

[MikeSSS]

Just finished reading this thread.

Excellent. Learned a lot from it. (Understatement)

Well done.

[newpinesap]

This looks like a really good way to build a cheap crawler. I only have one question. Where can you find the shock towers that you used. I've looked for a while and can't find anything like it.

[ccm399]

I was thinning a mono ball type of upper arm mount would be a great way to go. I LOVE the use of parts from other cars/trucks. Good work.