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joemomma95
04-09-2007, 05:59 PM
Well, pulled up the driveway today and there's a big cardboard box sitting at the door! YAAAA!:shock: :) :lol: :-P

Here's a few shots of it, charging the battery now so I can play around with it for a little before I tear into it.

Posing on the Pede..

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6340/img3298vs7.jpg
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8804/img3299gh5.jpg

And posing on the rocks(well, the footing of the neighbors wall)...
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/4342/img3301yl9.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/5707/img3302ax5.jpg


Haven't seen a blue one yet, I like the color alot, but it's only a matter of time before a new body makes it way on top of this thing.

One question for you WK guys. Have you converted all your electronics to deans yet? I was wondering if anyone has used the included charger with deans on it and if it worked out ok....I have a few crappy batteries and a crappy charger and they all have deans on them, just wondering if I can use them...

1RCbasher2NV
04-09-2007, 06:44 PM
I wish I had waited alittle longer for the 4WD to come out.I like that blue body alot better and I would have saved like $60 or more.Lucky You!!"thumbsup"

cotharyus
04-09-2007, 06:48 PM
Yea, not to mention the fact that you can't get the parts to convert the 2wd to 4wd atm. You guys that held off a little are actually getting a much better deal.

As far as deans plugs, I haven't switched up yet on the electronics on the WK, but it should work fine....however - the stock ESC will likely overheat very quickly. I'm trying to sort out what I want to do for power in this thing long term, and the ESC is a serious consideration, but I haven't decided if I want to go brushless or not. Well, to make a long answer short, you can convert it, but it's not worth the work. Get a a good ESC and just replace it.

4x4dodge
04-09-2007, 08:17 PM
Nice tuck, Just ordered a 4x4 wheely king for $210 a few minutes ago.(your post helped convince me "thumbsup" ) thanks

Also, what are your plans for making the truck into a crawler? I may want to do the same.

lowblueranger
04-09-2007, 09:53 PM
If you remove the rear "X" brace, it will add articulation. I tood it off mine before I even charged up the battery.

joemomma95
04-09-2007, 10:23 PM
Hey guys thanks alot for the replies, wasn't sure if I should even post this in the section since it's technically not a crawler yet...I have "crawled" with it though, in my mind. Got the battery charged up and took it out front, we have a little rip rap in front of the fire hydrant in the yard(fire hydrant is higher than the sidewalk) and I tore it up trying to get up those little rocks, kicked 'em all out on the sidewalk knowing I'd have to pick them up.

Not too sure what I'm gonna do with it as of now, I realize I need to stretch the hell out of it, already rolled it a few times doing some high speed turns on the pavement, can't imagine what it might do on some off camber situations. I've been looking at all the builds in here and the ideas are flowing...I do know one thing it's gonna be a crawler"thumbsup" ..

4x4dodge
04-09-2007, 10:51 PM
Keep us posted on what you decide to do to it 8)

joemomma95
04-12-2007, 08:30 PM
Well, I tore into the diffs today, I was scared I admit it:-( . But everything went well. I finally talked myself into just doing it and I wouldn't screw anything up. And guess what, I didn't.

I hot glued the diffs and it seems to work out pretty good. Don't know how long it'll last, I've read of some that hot glued and it came loose after some use. We'll see I guess. If the glue doesn't work then I'll just take them back apart and throw some JB in there.

What a world of difference in having lockers:shock: :shock: !! I recommend doing this if anyone hasn't already. Even if you just do the rear you'll be alot better off. I did the rear first, test drove it then talked myself into doing the front. After I did the front I did lose a little steering radius but it wasn't so much that I'd change it back.

Next on the list I think is to make a servo mount for the front axle. Probably use that template in the "servo mount" thread if I can get a hold of it. I also need to desperately find somewhere else to put the battery, it's flipping me over on things I know I could get up and over if it wasn't so top heavy.

cammok5
04-12-2007, 09:09 PM
i just forworded you the templete for the servo mount

joemomma95
04-12-2007, 09:17 PM
Thanks cammo, will print it out and go find some aluminum!

4x4dodge
04-12-2007, 10:22 PM
Mine should be here on Saturday 8) I think Ill do exactly what you did right away. Locking the diffs on my E-Maxx crawler made a huge difference so im glad to see it helps on the WK.

Natedog
04-12-2007, 10:23 PM
I wish I had waited alittle longer for the 4WD to come out...would have saved like $60 or more...

X2, but I have all the parts for conversion! ;-) I like the orange body better. Converting all the stock electronics to Dean's plugs on mine...do yours and use stock charger for now...takes along time to charge though.

EDIT: HOt glue locked diffs will eventually come loose, then re-do them with JB Weld.

cammok5
04-12-2007, 10:34 PM
is it complacated to get to the spiders. mine will be hear tomorow and i want to lock it and leave it stock till sumer when il have money to mod it.
btw i think the blue looks beter.

4x4dodge
04-12-2007, 10:47 PM
+1 on the blue
I may end up with a different body anyways...

joemomma95
04-13-2007, 12:16 AM
I may end up with a different body anyways...

I think this is not even a question. We all end up with other bodies don't we?? Trying to differenciate(sp?) yourself and your truck from others is what it's all about right?

cammo, it isn't hard to get to the gears, it does take a little while to get everything unscrewed and taked apart but it's fairly straight foward. I would like to find the guy who invented the e-clips though....I hate that guy.

joemomma95
04-13-2007, 10:32 AM
Some questions. Are these a good source for links?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGB7&P=7

Also, if I get these, what size all thread and what size tubing can I use with them? And what are you guys using for attaching the lower links to the stock brackets?

Is there a specific thread on how to measure/determine the link lengths and what angles to put them at to make the 4 link work good? And has anyone built just the lower links and kept the stock upper link lengthened?

As far as the driveshaft. I have no idea what I need to get to add some length to it. Anyone have a link?

And one more. What thickness aluminum is everyone using to make the axle servo mount? Would 1/8" work out ok?

Natedog
04-13-2007, 11:05 AM
Those links are fine for #8 thread size or the Revo metric links. Still deciding how I'm going to attach my lower links to the axles...probably just rotate and shim the stock mounts.

There are a couple threads on link setup if you search. ANd yes several people have done the links how you said.

T-Maxx driveshafts fit the WK shaft.

1/8" would work fine, but maybe a little thicker than needed. 1/16" is minimum.

joemomma95
04-13-2007, 11:18 AM
Thanks alot for the info Nate, I've been searching and looking through the forum almost all day today and all night last night. Can't believe how much I'm picking up on. This is getting interesting.

Is this the correct part to order for the t-maxx shafts? Just want to make sure before I buy anything...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP55&P=7

swhenrik
04-13-2007, 11:40 AM
Is this the correct part to order for the t-maxx shafts? Just want to make sure before I buy anything...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP55&P=7

Yep, that's the ones you need.

joemomma95
04-13-2007, 09:54 PM
WooooHooooooo!!!!

Went to the LHS(kinda local, an hour away) and got some parts. Wife hid the camera so no pics right now but I plan on doing some work tomorrow and should have pics tomorrow night.

I got some 2.2 moabs, will go on the stock rims, might try to take those off tonight. I got the driveshaft above and the rods ends, some all thread, need to hit Ace tomorrow see if I can find some tubing to cover the allthread with...should be a productive day tomorrow, can't wait to get started!!!!

clarkrw3
04-13-2007, 10:11 PM
got a 2wd before converted to 4wd and then picked up another 4wd one today...sweet two wk's to add to the .collection

4x4dodge
04-13-2007, 10:16 PM
Picts woulbe be good once you can "thumbsup"

Mine just came in today 8), its actually pretty fun when its stock. Ill probable bash it around for a while then make it into a crawler, like you are doing. I also got the moab 2.2's, they look like they will be great when I make it into a crawler.

Good Luck

cammok5
04-14-2007, 04:46 PM
they are fun stock. i got mine last night and used it all today. its just flips easy and dont go up hills unless it bakwords

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 12:52 AM
Well, worked all day on the rear links, did a little testing, then came home and worked the rest of the day on the front axle servo mount. Everything turned out nice, I've got to get some more rod ends for the front links so I can do that but I was impressed with what I did for the rear. Everything actually seemed to work, not bad for a first try huh?

Here's the pics...

Poser flex shot, I had to some minor trimming to the body to prevent rubbing....and as you can see, it's been rolled just a few times"thumbsup" ...

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/8136/img3303dw4.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1116/img3304tc7.jpg
Servo mount, turned out nice, great template to use, I did a few things different but still the same result...
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/3263/img3305hm7.jpg
I've got to get a different setup on the links, it's getting bound up turning to the right...
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/7576/img3306uo4.jpg
Left front side shot of the rear links...
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/3272/img3307ga3.jpg
Underneath the rear...
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3452/img3308ia7.jpg

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6193/img3309dp8.jpg
Rear flex shot...
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/9489/img3310kj0.jpg
Wheelbase measures about 10.5", the picture shows different but that's actually what it is from nut to nut...

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/1199/img3311pv6.jpg

Next on the list is to move the battery box to the front and put on the tires. I'm thinking I should probably narrow the stock wheels and then mount the moabs other than mounting them on the stock width wheels...

cammok5
04-15-2007, 08:51 AM
whats the length of your links? thats 10.5 w/ out any stretch to the front, right?

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 10:02 AM
Not sure on the length of the links, I'll try to get some measurements today for you. And ya, 10.5" with no stretch to the front yet. Thanks again for sending me the servo template cammo, much appreciated"thumbsup" ...

hairba11
04-15-2007, 10:42 AM
now that you have the servo on the axel, just swap the axles front to rear, then reverse the plugs on the motor. forward will still be forward for the esc, but the chassis will be facing backwards. that puts the batt over the relocated front axle for better weight placement.

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 10:58 AM
now that you have the servo on the axel, just swap the axles front to rear, then reverse the plugs on the motor. forward will still be forward for the esc, but the chassis will be facing backwards. that puts the batt over the relocated front axle for better weight placement.

Thought about doing it this way, but now that I have the truck almost fully tore down again I'll just move the battery box to the front and the piece the reciever is mounted to to the rear....mount the reciever on the battery box and the esc on the reciever plate. I know it sounds complicated but I think that's how I like things:lol: ..

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 02:06 PM
Thought about doing it this way, but now that I have the truck almost fully tore down again I'll just move the battery box to the front and the piece the reciever is mounted to to the rear....mount the reciever on the battery box and the esc on the reciever plate. I know it sounds complicated but I think that's how I like things:lol: ..


Started looking at it and it looks like that might not work, the battery box is longer and won't fit to well in the front of the chassis(won't fit under the motor like it does in the rear). Looks like I might be swapping the axles around...

Also, I measured the links in the rear, the lower links are 4 7/8" and the uppers are 4 5/8"...hope that helps..

cammok5
04-15-2007, 02:14 PM
thanks for the link mesurements. i just have to get some arrow shafts:)

hairba11
04-15-2007, 02:18 PM
Started looking at it and it looks like that might not work, the battery box is longer and won't fit to well in the front of the chassis(won't fit under the motor like it does in the rear). Looks like I might be swapping the axles around...

yeah, I didn't have the chassis apart and it looked like more work, so I took the lazy way out.
hooray lazy!

4x4dodge
04-15-2007, 05:03 PM
Swaping the axles sounds like a pretty good idea, I may do that too, any chance Someone could send me the template for the servo mount? The battery you are using looks like the Radio Shack 3300's I have, wish they still had the GP 3300's at Radio Shack....

Also, What did you use as a steering linkage from the servo?

BJoe
04-15-2007, 08:56 PM
I've been thinking about getting one of these lately and have been thinking about swapping things around to get more weight on the front if I do. I did that with my VMG and it made a big difference there, how does it work on the WK?

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 09:35 PM
Supposedly it works pretty good, I was looking into it today and might have found a problem. How does the servo wire reach the esc if you swap the axles around? I'll have to have a look around and see if anyone has a solution to this...

BTW, working on a video I shot today, hopefully I can have it up tonight..

4x4dodge
04-15-2007, 09:54 PM
The wire doesn't have to reach the esc, it has to go to the reciever.

One of these should work:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZU9&P=7

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 09:56 PM
The wire doesn't have to reach the esc, it has to go to the reciever.

One of these should work:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZU9&P=7

Ya, that's what I meant....grrrrr, another thing I'll have to buy? Well, I guess it'll have to wait...

clarkrw3
04-15-2007, 10:27 PM
Nice work!"thumbsup""thumbsup" You do know that the tab on the knuckle side of the servo mount is for the knuckle screw to go threw;-)

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 10:29 PM
Nice work!"thumbsup""thumbsup" You do know that the tab on the knuckle side of the servo mount is for the knuckle screw to go threw;-)

Yup, that'd be why there's a screw going through there:lol: :lol: :lol: ....kinda hard to see in the pics I guess, but it is there, I promise...

clarkrw3
04-15-2007, 10:33 PM
"thumbsup""thumbsup":lol:Yup, that'd be why there's a screw going through there:lol: :lol: :lol: ....kinda hard to see in the pics I guess, but it is there, I promise...

4x4dodge
04-15-2007, 10:34 PM
I've got to get a different setup on the links, it's getting bound up turning to the right...
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/7576/img3306uo4.jpg


Did you ever fix the binding?

joemomma95
04-15-2007, 11:02 PM
Ya, I actually just backed the screw out a little, the one in the servo arm....now everything works good.

JIA's Dad
04-16-2007, 10:37 AM
Ya, I actually just backed the screw out a little, the one in the servo arm....now everything works good.
Joe, If you move the servo from the front of the mount to the rear. More clearance!!!!!
Also if you going to make a battery mount you can use the servo mount screw hole location for the mount as measurements are the same for both sides of the housing. Just flipped!!!

joemomma95
04-16-2007, 05:14 PM
Joe, If you move the servo from the front of the mount to the rear. More clearance!!!!!
Also if you going to make a battery mount you can use the servo mount screw hole location for the mount as measurements are the same for both sides of the housing. Just flipped!!!


Thanks for the info on the moving the servo, make's sense without even looking at it, BUT this is also going to cut into the very little space I have now for the shock to run up to the shock mount, it's already very very close.

As far as the battery mount, I'm not sure what you mean? I did try some things out last night and it seems the mounting holes for the servo/reciever plate will allow the battery to fit snug under the body post/shock mount...I just need to figure out how to make it work like that. Also if I put the battery in that place I need some sort of mount for the reciever, any ideas?

I'm trying to keep the cost as low as possible on this, I've done a pretty good job so far I think. I've only bought about $60 worth of other parts besides the WK itself. That's why I might seem like I'm making things difficult for myself, but I'm working on a budget here. But I do not mind spending money where it is going to be important. The wife will get over it eventually, right?

JIA's Dad
04-17-2007, 06:09 AM
Joe, What I meant was you can use the servo mount template in reverse to make the battery mount, but only use the 2 screws by the side of the pumpkin and the screw at the end of the axle to make the battery mount. For my servo mount I only used the screws on the side that I was making the mount for, I did mot make my mount use all 4 screws around the pumpkin (not necessary) 3 are enough to hold it. So I used 3 screws for each mount on each side of the axle housing. Here is a picbefoe I made the new battery mount. This was my first with only 2 screws used.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t186/JIAS_DAD/007.jpg

joemomma95
04-17-2007, 09:38 AM
OK, I see now...I swear I'm so much better with pictures, child-like mind I guess. I like the idea of having the betteries on the axle but all I have right now is the stick packs, like the one that came with the WK. I'm still working on something to put the battery in the front, between the chassis plates....should have something figured out soon, I hope..

joemomma95
04-17-2007, 10:47 PM
Oh ya, finally figured something out for that dang battery. Had a piece of SS laying around and decided to make something out of it...a little dremel time and some bending and I've got a front mount battery tray. Here's the pics...

Side shot, as you can see I should've made the sides a little taller, making that screw on the right of the pic mount good is gonna be tight...I might just wallow out the screw hole in the chassis...
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2128/img3312jl1.jpg
Front shot, ignore the needle nose pliers(there to hold it up to position cause it's not mounted yet), I'll probably add some small screws in the tabs that come around the front just to add some more strength to it..
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/3159/img3313ji2.jpg
Top view..wires are tight but it will work, no worries..
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3740/img3314ct2.jpg
Sits flush up against the bottom rail of the chassis, had to trim a little off the rail where the 'bumper' was to make it flat..
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8312/img3315dn0.jpg
Kinda hard to see but I also had to trim off the small piece of plastic on the bottom of the shock mount, the little round 'hoop'(looked like you could put a screw through it for some odd reason)..made just enough room to slide the battery in from the front..
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/4060/img3316pp3.jpg
Gives you a better idea of what it looks like outside of the truck..
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/6791/img3317rp9.jpg
Bottom view, note I cut some notches in the front of the tray to slide it further back towards the tranny..
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/4149/img3318ia8.jpg
And a few measurements in case you wanna make your own..
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/273/img3319qn2.jpg
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/5625/img3320wt8.jpg

I think this will work out good, I wanted to put the battery in the chassis up front but didn't want to lose any clearance on the front links, I think I accomplished that. Only thing I'd change is making the sides of the tray a little taller(I beat myself in the head for not allowing any width for when I bent the metal). Should be able to hit the hardware store tomorrow and find some little screws to mount it up(pics will follow, as if there wasn't enough already right?)....now I gotta figure out some way to mount the reciever on top somewhere..

clarkrw3
04-18-2007, 07:03 AM
Nice work!
now I gotta figure out some way to mount the reciever on top somewhere..

I would say use velcro and mount it to the front or back of the sock tower"thumbsup"

cracker636
04-18-2007, 03:48 PM
thanks for the servo diagram i took it to work and drew it up on the laser and this is what i got . i still have to drill holes and bend it in the brake tomorrow. i made 6 more
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c34/cracker636/CIMG0773.jpg

4x4dodge
04-18-2007, 04:59 PM
Wow, that thing is cut really clean, nice job.

cracker636
04-18-2007, 07:19 PM
thanks, yeah i did it on a $500,000 laser so it better be good

clarkrw3
04-18-2007, 07:40 PM
Man I need a "freakin laser" that looks sharp. I will be looking for my 4 in the mail in a couple days;-);-)
thanks, yeah i did it on a $500,000 laser so it better be good

cracker636
04-18-2007, 09:34 PM
well if i bend them and dont screw any up:shock: i'll have 5 more to look at i might give some away"thumbsup"

joemomma95
04-18-2007, 10:08 PM
well if i bend them and dont screw any up:shock: i'll have 5 more to look at i might give some away"thumbsup"

I'd be in for that, my hack job isn't anywhere nearly as clean as that, that looks sooo nice..think I can talk the wife into buying a $500,000 laser for the garage?

cracker636
04-18-2007, 10:12 PM
if i get them to work i'll send one your way scene you gave me the print"thumbsup"

joemomma95
04-18-2007, 10:21 PM
if i get them to work i'll send one your way scene you gave me the print"thumbsup"

You da man!:lol: :lol:

May I also suggest sending one to Harley, he's kinda the reason I(and everyone else) had the print in the first place....and possibly cammo, he sent it to me....the list could go on forever, hahahaha...do what you will, I have one made that works, if others need them more than I do then they should get them, if your giving them away...

cracker636
04-18-2007, 10:30 PM
if i end up with extra they would be free just because i'm a nice guy8) why be greedy

joemomma95
04-18-2007, 10:34 PM
LOL, you should check out the servo mount thread, that's where this piece originated....also, I know your joking but it was said in there that no is to use the template to make any money, I don't want you getting a butt chewin for no reason..also, post these pictures in that thread too, would be a great example of what could be done with that template..

cracker636
04-18-2007, 10:41 PM
thanks for the warning i'll change that , and i'll post it in the servo thread

cammok5
04-19-2007, 01:17 PM
i could realy use one since mine didnt come out even close enogh to work.;-)

MSB
04-19-2007, 03:01 PM
i'll test one out if you're willing to send it my way

cracker636
04-19-2007, 03:40 PM
it all depends on how many i screw up bending i cant make any promises to any one because i dont wanna make any one mad

Kranberry
04-19-2007, 05:03 PM
it all depends on how many i screw up bending i cant make any promises to any one because i dont wanna make any one mad
if you screw up you could always send em my way8)

joemomma95
05-18-2007, 12:27 AM
Well, I'm kinda tired of the stock chassis, there's no options on where to mount things, there's only a few holes here and there and no real variety, no way to change things up and try different things that work and don't work. I decided to make my own chassis and give myself some more options, I'll have more places to adjust and mount links/shocks/electronics/etc.

I have to give credit to getbent for the idea on the tranny mount, I saw his and loved the idea of moving the motor down to the bottom of the chassis, low weight is a good thing.

Anyways, got the chassis side plates and the cutting board skid done today, mounted the tranny to the skid and tightened everything up to make sure I had things right. Unfortunately I ran out of memory space on the wifes camera so I didn't get any pics of the tranny mounted in the chassis, I'll try to get some tomorrow...

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9991/img3359ju2.jpg

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/36/img3360hj4.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6658/img3361yz5.jpg

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/4160/img3362rw0.jpg

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7690/img3363ti7.jpg


I've got a few things on the way from tower, a 45t integy, a few different gear combinations so I can try out what works and a special surprise that I'm not gonna reveal til it's done(hint: haven't seen to many of these, might be a reason why)...like I said more picture should be on tomorrow"thumbsup" ..

smokinubyrc
05-18-2007, 12:59 AM
Man i cant wait to get mine im so ready

i like the new motor mount so the motor sits like right on the skid now nice and low"thumbsup"

IronRC
05-18-2007, 07:27 AM
You wanna make another round of those servo mounts? :lol: :lol: "thumbsup" I have some aluminum, but no lasers :-( . I don't know how I would cut it out myself. Any ideas?

JIA's Dad
05-18-2007, 09:30 AM
Joe, I have to say I thought you would have chosen a different style of frame. The one you made looks like the WK stock shape wise and does nothing to lower cog. But you were concerned enough with cog to make a nice lower mount for the motor. Why not go further and come up with a low cog frame. The cutting board is a good idea, easy to work with and less drag than metal but has square edges to hang on things. IMO!!!

joemomma95
05-18-2007, 03:49 PM
Ya, I thought about doing a different style frame but when I used the stock frame things seemed to work pretty good, not to much trouble with the cog being to high but enough to want to move the motor down. I'll probably work with this for a while and come up with something new anyways, nothing is permanent and the aluminum isn't too much so I can always change things up and start over.

I just wanted to do something other than the stock chassis, and this isn't an exact copy of the stocker, it's about an inch wider, a few inches shorter(length) and about an inch shorter(height)....the width might bother me but with the cutting board skid I don't think it'll be a huge problem.

Another thing I'm working with is stick packs, I've got about 6 of them and I really didn't want to start buying all new batteries just yet. I'm trying to keep the cost down but it doesn't always work out that way, thus the reason behind keeping with the stick packs.

Also, I plan on smoothing the front and rear of the skids, kinda round them off a little so they'll slide a little better over sharp rocks.

Like I said, just trying new things. I'll let you know how it works.

getbent
05-18-2007, 08:07 PM
Somehow I totally missed this thread. Looking good so far, build what works for you. Not every cralwer has to be a super low COG totally decked out comp crawler. If it does what you want, then you got it right IMO. I plan on rounding the edges on the skid on my tuber too so it won't hang up quite as much. Keep the updates and pics coming!

joemomma95
05-19-2007, 09:42 AM
Here's the pictures of the tranny/motor mounted in the chassis, tight fit but I think things will work.

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5888/img3364bt1.jpg


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/330/img3365nz0.jpg

Oh ya, ignore the link mounts, I was up late last night and my head obviously wasn't right with things, what would be the point of building a new chassis and then have these screws/links sticking out the side, gonna work on moving them to the inside of the chassis today, just need to make a few adjustments..

I agree on building things to suit your needs/wants so that's what I'll be doing. Not many comps in this area so I'm not really building it for that...I guess I'll just build it and keep improving it as I go, that's how everyone does their stuff right"thumbsup" ....what's the point of building something if your not going to modify it and change things up to see what works:-P ..

I've got all day to work on the truck, so expect to see some more pictures tonight or tomorrow...

EDIT: Got the links and shocks mounted up, just doing things rough right now til I know what works and what doesn't...had to cut up the skid plate a little to put the lower links where I wanted them, looks like a good place IMO. Putting the shocks at this location gives me an almost perfect 12.5, I need to lengthen the upper links on the front cause the axle is pointing down in the front...oh ya, and I had the driveshafts cut short from the stock chassis setup I had, looks like I need to get another set, cause they aren't gonna reach now...anyways, here's the pics..

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9076/img3368ij0.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/327/img3369wy3.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3017/img3370wz3.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2680/img3371bi8.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/6650/img3372mg0.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9565/img3373ne5.jpg

JIA's Dad
05-22-2007, 06:07 PM
Looking good so far. You could trim the servo mount off just below the lower screws if it would help with clearance.

joemomma95
05-22-2007, 08:56 PM
Project on hold:x ....I put in the 45t integy and now it's jumping at slow speeds. Looks to me like brushes are hanging. I posted a thread in the Electronics section for some more help, we'll see what happens...and ya, I'm mad:x :-o :-x ..

joemomma95
05-28-2007, 09:07 PM
Got the electronics figured out(I hope), put in my Stampede XL-5 stuff and the motor doesn't jump at slow speeds anymore.

Been working on the new lid all weekend, blue tape and spray cans anyone?

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/7117/0528071149cle0.jpg

Sorry for the crappy pics, wife took the real camera on vacation with her...

Edit: Here's a few more progress pics..

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7851/0528072043apb1.jpg

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7133/0528072044aia0.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1823/0528072045ari0.jpg

CrocEnd
06-15-2007, 07:15 AM
What happened were are we at?

joemomma95
06-15-2007, 05:55 PM
Thanks for asking Croc, almost forgot I never posted decent pics...here's the final product(final for now at least, are these things ever "done"??)...

As you can tell I've already had it through the ringer, rolled, flipped, flopped, scratched, dented and whatever else my excellent driving can produce:lol: "thumbsup" :roll: ...

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/2682/img3580yr1.jpg

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/5815/img3581av8.jpg

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7315/img3582ml4.jpg

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/2016/img3583bd0.jpg

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/7829/img3584mu1.jpg

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/4875/img3585vw6.jpg

nigels_world
06-15-2007, 08:37 PM
thats a radio shack battery right? whats your run time with it? how much did you narrow the wheels? truck looks good man...

CrocEnd
06-16-2007, 03:39 AM
Nice finish Joe.

joemomma95
06-16-2007, 01:09 PM
thats a radio shack battery right? whats your run time with it? how much did you narrow the wheels? truck looks good man...

I usually break something or get bored with my usual spots before that battery runs out of juice. If I remember right I narrowed the inside of the wheels about 1/2", not real sure on that though..

Thanks for the compliments!

joemomma95
06-21-2007, 07:53 PM
Well, had to take the rear axle apart yesterday to redo the hotglue locker into a JB locker(the hot glue broke down), also needed to do the shim swap on the diff. I got to looking at the axle and the shock/link mounts and couldn't wait any longer for the vendors to produce something(not to say that I won't swap these out for a nice set). I threw this together today as I put the axle back together...

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3032/img3592sg5.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4659/img3593us7.jpg

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/9742/img3594cs4.jpg

http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/6584/img3595rd9.jpg

Also note the rear lockouts I made(swiped the idea from Harley's build, don't worry mine look much crappier:shock: :roll: ), the cutting board I had just happened to be the exact width to slide in between and keep the rear wheels from turning, what luck"thumbsup" ...

SACCO
06-21-2007, 08:18 PM
I like the lid u painted.

Did you break in the 45t before you put it in? A quick water break in will do wonders in keeping these lathe motors from hanging a brush.

Chassis looks good to. I might of missed it, but if you have room on the inside to mount the upper links instead of the outside it might look a little cleaner and flex smoother. But it looks like it does fine as it sits "thumbsup"

joemomma95
06-21-2007, 08:24 PM
I like the lid u painted.

Did you break in the 45t before you put it in? A quick water break in will do wonders in keeping these lathe motors from hanging a brush.

Chassis looks good to. I might of missed it, but if you have room on the inside to mount the upper links instead of the outside it might look a little cleaner and flex smoother. But it looks like it does fine as it sits "thumbsup"

Ya, I didn't break in the 45t until it broke on me, then I ran it in water hoping it would fix it..don't know if that did it but it works smooth now, not sure exactly what fixed it but I'm not messin with it anymore now that it works.

And no, no room on the inside, the driveshafts actually rub on the chasiss a little when it's flexing out alot and that's right where the links are mounted, had a helluva time trying to get everything together and now that everything is working I really don't wanna change things up too much. Things work well, I admit that it seems the links do bind before they should but right now it's limiting my flex, and it still has plenty of flex IMO.

I'll probably build another chassis in the future and address all the issues I have now and that way the chassis should be close to perfect.

SACCO
06-21-2007, 08:50 PM
If it aint broke.........


I know all about building a chassis and fighting this and that and this and that. It seems to never stop. It sure is fun figuring out what to do though!

nigels_world
06-29-2007, 04:47 PM
any new mods?

joemomma95
06-29-2007, 11:17 PM
Nothing new now, I put 3 spring spacers on the r/r shock, helps out alot with the torq twist, also gives a nice looking lean to the truck:lol: :lol: ...still waiting for you to finish up so we can go crawl. I got a PM a while back from a couple in SV that are interested in crawling in the area also. Looks like a Carr Canyon trip is on it's way!!

nigels_world
06-30-2007, 12:09 AM
Nothing new now, I put 3 spring spacers on the r/r shock, helps out alot with the torq twist, also gives a nice looking lean to the truck:lol: :lol: ...still waiting for you to finish up so we can go crawl. I got a PM a while back from a couple in SV that are interested in crawling in the area also. Looks like a Carr Canyon trip is on it's way!!


how about sunday? i drove the truck in the back yard tonight right when it was getting dark. seemed to work pretty good im going to test it out tomorrow in the day light and should be ready for Carr Canyon. this couple have crawlers already?

smokinubyrc
06-30-2007, 03:59 AM
nice build

get some more actions shots

joemomma95
07-01-2007, 03:11 PM
Here's some shots from the get together we had today, good times...

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?p=753332#post753332