pti stripping out wheel hexes

[Lil Jon]

are any of you guys having problems with your goliaths stripping out wheel's. i assembled the truck acording to the instructions and tightened the wheel hexes then backed them off so they wouldnt bind, about five minutes later one wheel stripped. i switched out to new rims and the 2 more stripped, is there any fixes for this.

-jon

[toomessedup]

i have never had any problems with wheels striping but this could be a good excuse to buy aluminum beadlocks

[shaunsmaxx]

Try some locktite on them. Let it cure good overnite and you should be set. I haven't had this prob but I do mine whenever I change them.

Shaun

[K_Willis]

The wheel pins that the PTI comes with are pretty small and have a lot of play in the stock wheels, that's what causes them to strip out. Your best bet to to make some new longer wheel pins. I made some by cutting the head and point off of a nail that was just big enough to fit through the hole in the axle. Seems to work well.

[K_B]

So are you still using the stock wheels or are you running wheels with an actual hex? I have yet to have a problem with wheel hexes (knock on wood). If you're still running the stock style wheels with just the pin, don't back off the nut at all... as a matter of fact, if you're using actual hexes don't back the nut off. I don't.

[K_Willis]

If you're still running the stock style wheels with just the pin, don't back off the nut at all... as a matter of fact, if you're using actual hexes don't back the nut off. I don't.

If you don't back off the nut, the wheels bind so bad they will barely turn. Not the solution tho I agree. If you are still going to use the stock wheels, you need to sand down the face of the wheel where the crosspin goes so that it does not press so tightly against the bearing. Then you will be able to tighten the nut fully so that the wheel is tight on the pin.

[jetboat]

wow, Im running a gd600 with mine and have bound the heck out of the wheels and done no damage. I agree with not backing the nut off, mine are tight!

[Nlee111]

Just get some msd beadlocks, and metal hexes *l* I never stripped hexes, but I never ran her stock either, so I have no idea.

[K_B]

Jeez... you guys must be a bunch of gorillas! I guess I just don't tighten mine down all that tight :)

[racerrandy]

I have not seen the PTI in person, but I thought it was based on Associated parts. You probably need to move shims from the inside of the axle, and add it on the outside. Could you post a pic of the knuckle and axle, maybe that would help.


Later,Randy

[Lil Jon]

there is no room to place a shim between the pin and the hub

[OGmicromonster]

I have a set of Tamiya clamping style aluminum hex adapters and replaced the stock pins with solid ones. I also use RPM revolver rims for the front of the Traxxas Stampede (part #82051) on all four corners. This setup works awesome and can handle the torque (especially if you use a gear reduction). Just to let you know though, those wheels are a narrow off-set, so if you want a wider truck you'll have to use a set of rear Stampete wheels. Or anything else that uses a hex.

[K_Willis]

Just to let you know though, those wheels are a narrow off-set, so if you want a wider truck you'll have to use a set of rear Stampete wheels. Or anything else that uses a hex.

The stampede rears would actually give you a more narrow truck, to widen it out you want electric stampede fronts.

[Thorsteenster]

funny, ive never had that problem either......
oh, wait a minute, i have a tlt, thats why!
:lol:

[K_Willis]

funny, ive never had that problem either......
oh, wait a minute, i have a tlt, thats why!
:lol:

Oh and do you use the stock wheels that came with your TLT? 'Cause those work really well. :roll:

[jetboat]

finally stripped mine, all 4 at the same time. I decided tha I am going to drill them out and throw in a large pin and use the hpi wheels so if I strip again it will only be the hex's not the rims.

[OGmicromonster]

The stampede rears would actually give you a more narrow truck, to widen it out you want electric stampede fronts.

You're right, I had that backwards. Sorry about that. But anyway the part number I'm using is correct in my post. I got that from the header card that they came in.

[OGmicromonster]

finally stripped mine, all 4 at the same time. I decided tha I am going to drill them out and throw in a large pin and use the hpi wheels so if I strip again it will only be the hex's not the rims.

When you strip those plastic hexes, you can upgrade to aluminum ones. "thumbsup"
Then you won't have to worry after that.

[Thorsteenster]

Oh and do you use the stock wheels that came with your TLT? 'Cause those work really well. :roll:

for the week i had it 100% stock, yup, they worked great!
but then i got a chassis kit "thumbsup"

[Natedog]

funny, ive never had that problem either......
oh, wait a minute, i have a tlt, thats why!
:lol:

^^^useless post.

Anyways, try some hex drive wheels and make some longer pins out of a small nail or piano wire (much stronger), I CA my Traxxas wheel hexes to the Stampede front wheels and then use a little SHoe Goo to build up the area around the wheel hex...and keep the nuts tight with Loctite! Helps alot.

If you're using stock wheels, then as stated use as long a drive pin as possible, shave the backside of the wheel a little so they don't bind the bearings when the wheelnut is nice and tight. If you shave a little too much off the back of the wheel, then a shim will help remove the excess play.

[OGmicromonster]

Yeah, the problem with the stock wheels is that they use a pin and no hex. They are fine for the original Goliath. But, obviously for a crawler a hex (preferrably aluminum) is the best way to go. Thankfully, PTI thought ahead and made the axles 5mm in diameter. So any touring car hex will fit. I prefer Tamiya ones. They have several in different thicknesses so you can pick what additional off-set you want. AND they have a small flange on the back side so they don't bind. OH yeah and they have clamping style ones too so they lock onto the axle and don't come off when you remove the wheel. To help minimize binding on mine I beveled the edge of the knuckles a little (the part that faces the back of the wheel). I'll post some photos so you can see what I mean.