MFM Wheely King

[kdubb88]

I started out with a MFM chassis and going for the leafer build. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72893&highlight=Rubicon+leafer

Scraped that idea after attending a local crawler event. Decided to make a competition crawler with the MFM chassis and the R2 tranny. My first crawler, F150 Wheely King did not fair so well. not enough torque and to top heavy with the stock motor/tranny setup.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66923&highlight=F150+Wheely+king


With this MFM chassis and the R2 tranny, I have an extremely low COG along with some bb's in the front wheels. I am waiting on RC4WD to fab up some 5mm to 6mm output shafts so I can install the drive shafts.

(FYI - for all you thinking of using and R2, the R2 transmission comes with 5mm output shafts, WK and REVO shafts are 6MM)

I am using Associated T4 shocks with 80 wieght oil. It sits low, but has plenty of droop.


Here are some pictures. I built this in just about 2 weeks. SO I still have to trim most of the bolts.
http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0060.jpg

Since the chassis rides low. I had to make a servo mount that would allow me to have a axle mounted servo, yet give me chassis clearance.

I used the Tamiya suspension stays and doubled monted them back to back to create the upper 4 link mounts. I had to do this becasue the motor is real close to the chassis rail that a ball end would not fit on the inside of the chassis rail.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0061.jpg

I made some simple brackets so I could use the stock body mounts.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0062.jpg

Motor is just about riding up against the bolt. It has a 8 tooth pinion in it, if it is geared to low, I will have to redesign the link mounts so I can move the motor out.


http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0063.jpg
I used one of my WK bodies to keep the costs down. I figure after a few tumbles, why waste money on a new body. Idon't think it looks all that bad, a little short, but it gives great approach and decent angles.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0058.jpg



http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0059.jpg

Fabed up some steering block-outs for the rear. I did not shave the spindle arms incase I try 4-wheel steering some day.


http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0065.jpg

Articulation is good.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0064.jpg


http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/1DSCF0066.jpg


Once I get the drive shafts mounted, I will mount the battery and clean up the wiring.

Not sure if I will have all the parts for this weekends PARC comp.:?:
RC4WD, if you are looking, I need some parts!

[Turblankas13]

looks pretty nice, how does that chassis work because i was thinking about getting it for my scale crawler?

[kdubb88]

looks pretty nice, how does that chassis work because i was thinking about getting it for my scale crawler?


The chassis is real nice to work with. I had to drill and tap my own holes for the R2 trans. You will have to figure out a way to mount the WK trans. The frame the way it comes is a tad to narrow to laydown a WK transmisison. A few 1/8 spacers ought to do the trick. I think it was manufactured to run the Stampede setup. One of the rails is cut a little different in the center section and MFM offers a tranny bracket. As you can see, there is a hole just about everywhere you could wish for. As soon as I get it running, we will see how it performs.

[tsaun987]

is it possible to use Harley's servo mnt w/ that chassis or will there not be enough clearance? I ask because I see yours it mounted in the middle of the axle.

[kdubb88]

It will hit, unless you have the chassis up higher. Check out 4x4Dodge's build using the MFM chassis with mount like Harley's.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74259

[Natedog]

Nice start, but seems like it would be better if the steering servo is tillted back and up so that the servo horn and links have more ground clearance.

[4x4dodge]

That looks REALLY good. You should do alot better at the next comp. Only thing that will hurt you is not having 4 wheel steering. The next comp is a pain to get to since it's up at the very top of South Mountain.

[Hurley0706]

Looks real good man. Everything looks like it was well executed. I agree the WK body looks pretty good on there, I would keep it as long as they allow it in your local club. I think this chassis has been overlooked long enough, I bet we see quite a few of these start to pop up very soon :D :?: :D

I have a new 4x4 wk, and a black MFM sitting at home right now. Mine is going to use the WK trans though. It will not be laid down, like you said there isn't room with the stock width. I am having plates machined to hold the trans, then I will clock the motor around front probably.

I am going with the stock steering configuration, just lengthing and strengthing everything.

I am pretty happy with the chassis, this will be my 3rd wk build and I think it will be very fun.

[elbo]

Kdub, the MFM chassis looks great with the Wk axles underneath. you're right i think it is mostly designed for the stampede chassis, but now i see the chassis begs for WK axles. my tlt axles just looked to puny for the chassis. i am designing a tube frame that basically bolts to the MFM chassis. i want mine to shake the ground(when it falls) like JIA's.

i agree with harley the stock steering config should be retained. and it would be relatively easy on this chassis. i want to try to use the battery box as well.

[johnathan c]

nice wk im building 1 just like that but with a jeep body and a roll cage "thumbsup"

[kdubb88]

Looks real good man. Everything looks like it was well executed. I agree the WK body looks pretty good on there, I would keep it as long as they allow it in your local club. I think this chassis has been overlooked long enough, I bet we see quite a few of these start to pop up very soon :D :?: :D

I have a new 4x4 wk, and a black MFM sitting at home right now. Mine is going to use the WK trans though. It will not be laid down, like you said there isn't room with the stock width. I am having plates machined to hold the trans, then I will clock the motor around front probably.

I am going with the stock steering configuration, just lengthing and strengthing everything.

I am pretty happy with the chassis, this will be my 3rd wk build and I think it will be very fun.

I had the stock steering setup in this truck for the most part, but I had the servo in the rear. I ran into problems with the center portion being to long (the upright pivot arm), it would hang below the lower links under compression. I felt it would get hung up on rocks. I am sure that it could be worked out by changing locations of the pivot arm. The stock servo mount fit great on this chassis with a couple of spacers.

I will look for your future post."thumbsup"

[tsaun987]

Will the short shaft for the r2 work if you are mounting it on its side like the way you are? I was under the impression that using the short shaft required you to mount the tranny upright... thanks man

[kdubb88]

Will the short shaft for the r2 work if you are mounting it on its side like the way you are? I was under the impression that using the short shaft required you to mount the tranny upright... thanks man


Yes,
I have chooped the long end down to match the short end. I am using the Revo half shafts for drive shafts. They are larger and a tad longer at the universal joint so there is clearence. I might have to shave the future skid plate a bit to allow for the drop angle. Plus, with the 5mm to 6mm adapter, that will push the shafts out even further. No problems.

[tsaun987]

if you dont mind, what are the part #'s for the shafts you used. I have the jato shafts and they are just barely too short. How are yours in length comparison to the jato shafts if you know what ones im talking about.
thanks

[kdubb88]

if you dont mind, what are the part #'s for the shafts you used. I have the jato shafts and they are just barely too short. How are yours in length comparison to the jato shafts if you know what ones im talking about.
thanks

I have never seen a Jato shaft. The Revo Shaft is 5451X. It is 6-1/4" long. If you get these, the splines are keyed so they only go together in a certain way. The tolerance in the slip joint is very tight, so, when you trim them down, I recommend using a razor blade. Saw blades roughen up the edges and they don't slip inside each other well. Then you have to go and clean them out. Learned that on my first set.

[chip cross]

that thing is sharp "thumbsup"

[elbo]

i used tmaxx shafts. traxxas #4951x. they required very little mod.

[kdubb88]

I decided to play by the rules and go with a 1/10th body since everyone else in the club does. Here it is.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/DSCF0075.1.jpgI

It sits nice and low. I might remove the springs and see how it does.


http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/DSCF0076.1.jpg


http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/DSCF0077.1.jpg


I am still waiting on the drive shaft adapters. I will give an update as soon as I can get it running.

Does anyone have input as to foams with bb's or no foams with bb's? BB's up front or all around?:?:

[SACCO]

I want an MFM chassis:-(

If you remove the springs, stand the shocks up a lil more:lol:

[Kranberry]

Is There Any Touqe Twist With The Shocks Laid Down That Much?

[Turblankas13]

yea i was wondering that too, idk i would think u would want to run the shocks more vertacle!

[kdubb88]

Is There Any Touqe Twist With The Shocks Laid Down That Much?

I believe there will be some. I had some twist on my other truck with a similiar shock angle. Not sure, but as soon as I get the drive shatfs in, I will test it to see. The good thing about the MFM chassis, there are alot of quick changes that can be made without drilling new holes.

[4x4dodge]

Were you able to make it to the last comp at the Summit? If so, how did the truck do?

[tltman12]

That is one nice wheely king, sweet job man!

[ace007]

Hope you enjoy it.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d187/ace1007/mykingMedium.jpg

[kdubb88]

Were you able to make it to the last comp at the Summit? If so, how did the truck do?

I went, but I did not run. I took the servo out of the other truck to use in this one. Right now, I don't have a running rig. I should be up and running for the next one.

[kdubb88]

Are you planning on any modifications?

[kdubb88]

I finished the build. I went with the small Traxxas drive shafts and used the steel yolks to fit the R2 tranny. Decided that full droop might just work out for this rig, so I am going to give it a try. I will have the springs close by incase things don't go well. The R2 is geared super low. I can walk faster than it runs, but it crawled right up over a parking block with-out missing a beat. I went head on with a wall and it just walked the front right up it. I like the control that you get with low wheel speed, just hope that it is not too low.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/DSCF0085.1.jpg


I read up on the post that delt with keeping the weight centered and as low as possible. This is as low as I can get everything that is heavy.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/DSCF0086.1.jpg


I made a thin plastic skid plate and servo taped it to the bottom of the transmission. I gave it a good tug and it stayed put. It should last for a little while before peeling off. I had one bolted on, but even flat head screws wold get caught and snagged. I am trying to keep it light.

http://members.cox.net/kdubb88/DSCF0087.1.jpg

I ordered up a set of JUNFAC bead locks so I can switch between Moabs and Mashers. This weekend will be its maiden run so the droop set up will get a work-out. The next step will be 4-wheel steering.

[admiket]

nice build.

[2Crawlers]

So do you like how it's geared or are you going to make some changes?

[redbarton]

Wow! I love your build kdubb88. The MFM chassis seems to be a great platform to build on. I'm about to pick up my first crawler. If I don't get the Axial Scorpion, I'm definitely leaning towards a Wheely King scale truck conversion using the MFM chassis. I love the ride height and stance of your truck. Way to go!

[kdubb88]

Wow! I love your build kdubb88. The MFM chassis seems to be a great platform to build on. I'm about to pick up my first crawler. If I don't get the Axial Scorpion, I'm definitely leaning towards a Wheely King scale truck conversion using the MFM chassis. I love the ride height and stance of your truck. Way to go!

My main goal was to keep it as low as I could and keep a lot of articulation. I am hoping for great results this weekend.

I like the chassis as well. I like building custom parts, but with out a mini machine shope, alignment of multiple holes and actually driling them dead center is tough. This chassis has plenty of options for mounting. Good luck with your build.

[kdubb88]

So do you like how it's geared or are you going to make some changes?

I like the fact that is is geared low compared to the stock WK tranny. With the R2 tranny mounted the way it is, there is not much room to put a larger pinion on it, the motor will hit the frame rails. I hope to go from a 8 tooth to a 10. I am going to try it this weekend in a local comp. to find out.

[2Crawlers]

Let us know how it goes with the 10 tooth!

[yarddog35]

Nice rig kdubb, good luck with it this weekend.

[kdubb88]

The first comp went well. I tried to put the 10 tooth pinion in, but could not get the set screw removed from the 8 tooth. The set screw broke in the allen head area. I will work on that.

Otherwise, the droop setup worked excellent! The steel traxxas yolk slipped of the R2 tranny once during the comp, but I took a repair and tightened it back up. The R2 puts out some serious torque. I spun 3 out of the 4 hex's in the wheels. Not sure if the stock WK hex's are the weak point or the HPI spike wheels????

I had multiple problems with the turning radius. If anyone knows a way to squeek a few more degrees of turn out the knuckles, I am all ears.

Thanks to the P.A.R.C group for giving me the chance to run.

[SACCO]

I ground a little on the axle where the arm hits when turning. I also ground on that arm a little too.

Put a dig setup on it. It will turn around in a 3ft radius then, or less if you hook a tire on something."thumbsup"

[kdubb88]

I ground a little on the axle where the arm hits when turning. I also ground on that arm a little too.

Put a dig setup on it. It will turn around in a 3ft radius then, or less if you hook a tire on something."thumbsup"


I am thinking about dig. Not sure if I should try the custom drive shaft set-up or get a new transmission with the disconnect. I will also look into grinding in the mean time.
Thanks

[SACCO]

The dig would be cheaper unless you sell your R2. Then it wouldnt be too bad. lemme know if you decide to sell your R2 and buy the new one with disconnect. I have been looking for an R2. Good luck, I love that MFM chassis"thumbsup"

[just_now]

sweet rig

[RedNeck Rc]

A dig or disconnect would help your rig alot, I am hoping to get one of those new trannys like you talked about.