TLT-1 and TLT-10 tricks/ tips (UPDATE: TLT-10 conversion)

[Plays_with_Toys]

With the TLT becoming as popular as it is, I figure it'd be nice to have a resource on this site on general tips to get every last ounce of performance out of the truck.

A quick term I have coined is the TLT-10, the "10" indicates a TLT that has been extended to 1:10 scale. A TLT-1 is just the stock 1:18 truck.



So on to some tips, this will be updated with more and more tips, and please, add your own.

*) When building the TLT make sure you install the motor when it asks to be done in the directions. It is very difficult to install the motor after the chassis is assembled.

*) Using the tamiya ball ends with traxxas balls instead of the supplied tamiya ones allows for smoother, and slightly greater flex for the suspension links.

*) The center differential should be locked from build up, as it is very easy for it to loosen after a few runs. With the stock center diff, you can use traxxas slipper pegs for a near perfect lock out that is not permanent, or JB weld for a permanent, complete lock.

*) The axle differentials contain spider gears. While JB weld can be used to lock them, other methods include silly putty, stick and tack (poster hanging putty), hot glue, and heavy automotive grease.

*) Many 2.2" wheels will fit the TLT. These include the Traxxas rustler/stampede rear wheels and HPI aftermarket wheels, though you will have to use the included adapter for a perfect fit.

*) The spur gear is a 48pitch metric spur, these can be tricky to acquire, there are some other spurs whose screw patterns line up to the TLT. Traxxas spurs do not all line up. Robinson Racing Products sells spurs that do fit. (there are more, but I have to look up the others). If you are not sure, ask your LHS to open the package and check the hole alignment yourself.



TLT-10 conversion (Maxx links)

For extending the wheel base you need:
(2) 96mm suspension links for the original Tmaxx (PN# 2338 ) $12
(2) 106mm supension links for the 2.5 Tmaxx (PN# 5138 ) $18
Longer dogbones, or
traxxas stampede sliders (PN# 4628 and 1951) $10
Electric 4tec diff: (PN# 4280 [entire diff, $24])
For the diff housing and gear (no diff screw or balls) PN#4281, 4282, 4283, 2722, 4360 for a total cost of $18.00
You will also need PN# 4255 which are the output yokes from the diff ($6.50)
You can also use the Traxxas street sport diff for $18 at tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG16&P=7

(links in .pdf)
Here's the parts list

Heres the exploded view

Total cost is $64.50 or $70.50 depending on which diff option you choose. I guess I didn't realize how much it was adding up when I was paying for the stuff. Oh, and to clarify, the tmaxx links say that they are 2mm shorter than I posted here on the parts list, but on the packaging they came in, they were the lengths I posted.

In the following post, is what I did, in a written format.

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image10/7/75/36/126877536hrIlpI_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image10/7/79/94/126877994viVMVL_ph.jpg

Please, if you have any more questions, or additions, post them! I do intend to make this a RCCrawler article.

[Plays_with_Toys]

In order to get the 4tec diff to fit, I had to create bearing spacers, if you will, by shaving down two of the 5x11mm plastic bushings to fit inside of the ball bearings included with the kit. I then used the 4tec u-joint couplers that go into the diff, and placed one extra spacer on the rear most shaft. This allows the diff to stay in the center, since it is actually a hair too narrow for the gearbox. I then placed the coupler of the stampede slider on the outdrive on the axle. It was a very tight fit, so I pushed it on with a hex driver then threaded the grub screw in.

For the four link suspension I used Tmaxx 2.5 106mm links for the bottom links and Tmaxx (original) 96mm links for the top. Like I said, my wheel base is too short at the moment, but the ball ends are completely threaded on, so I have ample room to move it out (since I have to move both axles only a 1/4" of an inch total).

I took off the cantilever system and instead installed the shock on the axle, where the cantilever would line up. I then attached it where the top cross brace goes. To space them out, I used the original balls that go with the TLT's ball ends as spacers to space the shock out, as well as space the lower ball links out (it allows the rest of the screw length to be taken up, and squares the lower links better).

I also used the TLT ball ends, but used the traxxas balls, as they fit looser and allow free'er motion. They also are a tad wider and fill the link mounts on the axle perfectly.

For the cross beams, I moved the top one to where the top hole is for the body mounts, and the bottom one where the cantilevers install.

With this setup, the articulation is scale, but not impressive. It is capable of HUGE amounts of articulation, but the shocks limit it big time. I think a link mounted shock, or a cantilever (with a 2:1) ratio would allow the full potential to be unleashed.

[SROlmeda]

I dont know if you've tried this but try mounting the shocks on the links (see my TLT for pictures) this way the servo wont be on the way and you'll get all the aticulation you want :wink:

[Plays_with_Toys]

To mount the shocks on the links would require different springs, as the stock springs aren't that strong, and I hear that you can get them from hardware stores... Otherwise I think with torque roll and everything the truck would be undriveable.

[nodnarb22]

can you possible post pics of what part of the ball diff your refering to haveing to shave?

[Plays_with_Toys]

I forgot to point at that to do the conversion, you'll need two extra plastic bushings, but if you've upgraded to ball bearings or brass bushings, there are more than enough in the kit.

Here is a pic of a regular plastic bushing, and a shaved one placed inside the larger tranny bearing:

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1527/IMG_94.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img31&image=IMG_94.jpg)

[nishru]

mine came today :D :D
cant wait to start on it

[nodnarb22]

ive done that.. i used two copper bushing and installed it.. i have a little slop left to right on the housing BUT im gona leave it for now i believe it wont be a problem. and will alow for shifting.. im not too keen on the belt drive of the tlt .. if this fails ill prob go to a rustler stampede tranny

[MAXIMUM_MAXX]

can you post some pics of the actual diff in the truck

[Plays_with_Toys]

do you mean the stock one, or the 4tec?

[nodnarb22]

im gona guess he means the 4 tec.. i would if i hadnt just put it all back togther

[Plays_with_Toys]

I'd do it but all my RC stuff is in one giant box so it'd be hell trying to find the bearings and stuff.

[MAXIMUM_MAXX]

yes the 4 tec diff i just want see some pics of the diff actually in the truck

[DWiddowmaker]

STICKY PLZ!