4 linking a twin

[nodnarb22]

Okay, Ive began four linking my twin force. I started with the rear end as it would be easier to set up the link mounts for the time being ( no rear steer ) i know most will say. your at stock wheel base and so on but that doesnt matter right now. its more of a BC i can and to prove to my self i can sucsessfully build a 4 link. i also am aware the links as they are in the pics are weak thats fine their just for sizing stuff out for now.so guys gimme ur opions on how i did so far. so i can make changes before i do the front end. so let me have it.

http://img268.echo.cx/img268/9645/dscn29541to.jpg

http://img270.echo.cx/img270/6999/dscn29555sv.jpg

[jimbobmarley]

looks like you have done a pretty gd job to me as long as you get full articulation and it is stable you are sorted

[nodnarb22]

articulation isnt great but not bad its not ment to be a full on crawler more of a trail rig. type thingy.

[BCCrawler]

You can make the links stronger by takeing some thick wall aluminum tubing and sleeving your all thread. But if you have a tap set I would make them out of solid stock.

[nodnarb22]

yeah, i have some brass tubing to go around the threaded rod for now. i will make some solid links adventualy but since ive read that the solid links that are drilled and tapped are weak with the threaded part into them. ill end up doing solid links that start out at 1/4 probably and get turned down to have 8-32 threaded ends adventualy. but this is just mock up for now and if these links hold up like they seem they will i wont worry about it till they break.

[Reflection]

Well it looks O.K. for a first attempt. Your uppers have pleanty of triangulation to keep the axle centered. Looking at it from the side,if they are at that much angle,you really need to flaten them out some. Flatter the better.

If you kept it that way,from the pics it looks like the driveshaft will hit your uppers. As long as you can get 45 to 55 degrees of articulation,everything clears good,everythings built strong and it handles good your good to go. When you build it for the final time allow for some adjustment(link mounts and shock mounts)so you can fine tune it to your taste. Don't waste your time trying to get more than 55 or 60 degrees of articulation. Anything more is useless and most of the time it creates an unstable rig.

[nodnarb22]

Well it looks O.K. for a first attempt. Your uppers have pleanty of triangulation to keep the axle centered. Looking at it from the side,if they are at that much angle,you really need to flaten them out some. Flatter the better.

The links not being flat when the truck sits is due in part to the super stiff stock twin force springs.


If you kept it that way,from the pics it looks like the driveshaft will hit your uppers. As long as you can get 45 to 55 degrees of articulation,everything clears good,everythings built strong and it handles good your good to go. When you build it for the final time allow for some adjustment(link mounts and shock mounts)so you can fine tune it to your taste. Don't waste your time trying to get more than 55 or 60 degrees of articulation. Anything more is useless and most of the time it creates an unstable rig.



The drive shaft oddly wont hit the uppers. The axle bumps into the chassis plates first. I get roughly 40-45 degrees articulation with one wheel in the air right now. As for shock mount locations those are temporary till i figure out where to mount the batterys and how many batterys im going to run.



Here are some updated pictures since i finished the front end and servo mount.

articulation With out shocks hooked up

http://img189.echo.cx/img189/2302/dscn29643lg.jpg



underbelly shot

http://img189.echo.cx/img189/470/dscn29612yd.jpg

[Reflection]

I also think I would try to make your upper links a tad longer. Looks like your on the right track,like I said though,leave room for adjustments in your link mounts and shock mounts. After you run it for the first time,you'll probly want to adjust a few things.

[nodnarb22]

make them longer to mount closer to the center of the chassis?

[Reflection]

Yup. It'll help your pinion from diggin in the dirt on suspention droop. Having your uppers the same length as your lowers will keep your pinion angle the same throughout the suspention travel cycle. Having your uppers longer than your lowers will actually make your pinion point higher as the wheels drop.

[nodnarb22]

Yeah, I've noticed that but kinda used it to my advantage on the rear and the front is in a nuetral position so that i dont get any bind as the axle goes up or down. What is it called when the axle wants to come up under the rig? or what should I do to fix it.

[Reflection]

If it's going under the rig under articulation,your proply seeing axle steer. The only way I know to eliminate it is to triangulate both uppers and lowers. To lessen it and keep your current link config.,you need your links parrellel(sp) with the earth at ride height. My links are flat with the ground,I've got a shade of axle steer but I'm not real super concerned about it.

If it's going under the rig when the axle drops straight down,thats a bad thing. The only thing I can think of that would cause that is your links are WAY to short and are WAY to steep of an angle.