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Old 06-09-2008, 09:10 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigflex View Post
The XR3 is just like a DX3 but without the 2.4g module. The 3rd channel is a 3 pos. RTC switch and all I will have to do is add a micro toggle that is a NRTC 3 pos. just like this
DX3 toggle switch installation
Hold up now... I was under the impression that I could NOT add the toggle switch to my DX3.0 radio, because the 3 pos. isn't in the software... Do you know if I can add it???? I have an XR3 remote also... do I need to use it to achieve the 3 position dig?

Thanks

--actually, I just checked, and I have the XS3 FM radio. Do you know if it will work with that radio?

Last edited by Master Basher; 06-09-2008 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 06-09-2008, 10:47 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Basher View Post
Hold up now... I was under the impression that I could NOT add the toggle switch to my DX3.0 radio, because the 3 pos. isn't in the software... Do you know if I can add it???? I have an XR3 remote also... do I need to use it to achieve the 3 position dig?

Thanks

--actually, I just checked, and I have the XS3 FM radio. Do you know if it will work with that radio?
I think you are out of luck with both. The DX3.0 is an (upgraded) or newr version and will not do the 3pos. The XS3 should be just like the 3.0 except it isn't a 2.4g radio. you may be able to do 3pos with them through mixing and using 2 different buttons but I am not sure on that. In order to do a 3pos. switch you would need either a XR3 or a DX3.
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Old 06-11-2008, 09:01 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by bigflex View Post
I think you are out of luck with both. The DX3.0 is an (upgraded) or newr version and will not do the 3pos. The XS3 should be just like the 3.0 except it isn't a 2.4g radio. you may be able to do 3pos with them through mixing and using 2 different buttons but I am not sure on that. In order to do a 3pos. switch you would need either a XR3 or a DX3.

To hell with it. I just ordered a DX3R. I'll sell everything else and keep my DX3.0 for when my brothers or friends wanna play with my trucks with me.

Check out Ebay for a good deal on my old sh!t.
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:33 AM   #84
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I dinked around with my linkage and my servo, and now I think I have the 'perfect' setup. I used leftover parts from a rear steer kit, and I get almost no twist at all on the linkage in any position. I'll post picks soon, but I'm tired once again, it's way past my bedtime.
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:18 AM   #85
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Default Lets look at it

I started to build mine. How much interlock do you need for the driveline to hold? I have about 1/4 on each male end when in 4 wheel. Not sure if it will hold the spline. Let me see some more pices.
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Old 06-18-2008, 03:16 PM   #86
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Left over link from a rear steer kit works the best for me. Doesn't twist at all, and looks 'stock'.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:23 PM   #87
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does it twist if you put it in "dig" mode (rear tires locked) and try to run the truck forward on the ground? mine didn't really twist that much until I engaged the dig. no bueno. I do like the idea of using the bent rod ends though, makes for better geometry.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:41 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by mysharona View Post
does it twist if you put it in "dig" mode (rear tires locked) and try to run the truck forward on the ground? mine didn't really twist that much until I engaged the dig. no bueno. I do like the idea of using the bent rod ends though, makes for better geometry.
No, but I did have to run the travel of the servo in the 4wd version at 135% to keep the rear axle engaged in 4wd during any kind of major twisting manuver where the right front and the left rear where rising with respect to the plane that they formed on any climbs.

I have yet to need anything but 4wd in any of my own crawling practice. I just wanted to make it because it sounded so cool to have the ability to do that, but it hasn't helped me yet. But then again, I've never been to any competitions to actual observe it's correct usage. I've only been to the local mountain and dirt/gravel piles.

--oh, and your problem suggests that your metal pipe thread nipple still has peaks too high on the threads, or the bushings do, or the connection rod between the two male shafts has too much friction. Remember my post earlier where I said that it doesn't need to be threaded permanently into one of them? Check out the picture of the welding rod that I have miced (okay, they're calipers), it floats freely in both shafts.
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:20 PM   #89
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I like the link you used too. No twist sounds good. My ball end idea seemed great but it does twist when locked in dig. I am using zip ties to keep it from rotating now, but Ill try the solid mount.
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:44 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
I like the link you used too. No twist sounds good. My ball end idea seemed great but it does twist when locked in dig. I am using zip ties to keep it from rotating now, but Ill try the solid mount.
I just flanked the ball end sockets with washers, and didn't tighten it too much, because they do still have to rotate when the servo moves. Don't use a ball end though, just use a screw with a nylock nut.
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Old 07-09-2008, 10:53 PM   #91
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Default great idea works great

Well its midnight and I just finnished this build. The only tuff part is treading the pipe, but I think I nailed it it works great thanks
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:14 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigflex View Post
as of right now I have a Cirrus 3ch with only a 2 position 3rd ch. I am waiting on my JR XR3 to get here then I will have a 3pos. setup. You will want to have a 3position toggle switch that doesn't return to center. You can do this to several radios but not all. There are also some radios that have 2 position 3rd ch but can be combined with anoth switch through mixing to work the dig in all 3 positions. look in the electronics section for rear stear and dig and you will find alot of useful info. What radio are you using?
Use a pot switch u can install them on damn near anything and u get awsome control over ur dig unit while flexin ur rig. I use a 30dollar traxxis 3ch radio, and u can google the build back to this site
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Old 07-27-2008, 08:00 AM   #93
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2 questions about the setup:
-Is there any way to attach the linkage without welding? I was thinking maybe a short ball and socket like the ones used on the suspension or tie rods.
-what effect does this have on the transmission? Is there enough slip in the tranny to allow that lockup, or did you do something there too?

Look like a great, inexpensive setup, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to burn anything up on my new truck!
Thanks
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Old 07-27-2008, 09:46 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceplus View Post
2 questions about the setup:
-Is there any way to attach the linkage without welding? I was thinking maybe a short ball and socket like the ones used on the suspension or tie rods.
-what effect does this have on the transmission? Is there enough slip in the tranny to allow that lockup, or did you do something there too?

Look like a great, inexpensive setup, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to burn anything up on my new truck!
Thanks
The tranny is disengaged completely from the rear end when it is in dig. You can thread a ball end in the pipe. That is what I did, but the arm helps with resisting twist.
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Old 08-06-2008, 04:10 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceplus View Post
2 questions about the setup:
-Is there any way to attach the linkage without welding? I was thinking maybe a short ball and socket like the ones used on the suspension or tie rods.
-what effect does this have on the transmission? Is there enough slip in the tranny to allow that lockup, or did you do something there too?

Look like a great, inexpensive setup, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to burn anything up on my new truck!
Thanks
You don't want a ball end attached. You want something that will resist the twisting tendency. If welding is a problem for you, you can send it to me and I'll do it for free.

The transmission is unaffected. You should go back and read one of my earlier posts that shows details of the parts before they're assembled, I even show caliper measurements. It took me a little while to figure out how it all worked too, but the design really revolves around a good straight smooth rod in the center of everything.
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Old 08-06-2008, 05:27 AM   #96
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Glad to see some of you guys still using this. All the digs that I have seen in this thread look great! I finally got an R2D and am about to get a berg so I dont mess with these anymore. Keep up the good work guys!
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:05 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Rockcrawler View Post
Glad to see some of you guys still using this. All the digs that I have seen in this thread look great! I finally got an R2D and am about to get a berg so I dont mess with these anymore. Keep up the good work guys!
Can I have your old one? I can't do it for the life of me lol Who wants to make me one? I'll pay ya. lol
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:17 PM   #98
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wat is the point of dig
wat is it used for?
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:12 PM   #99
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Great info in here. I watched the video and I was wondering what impact on performance the dig has when it moves the suspension. It seemed like when the dig locked the rear axle it also loaded the suspension. I would think this could possibly cause issues on the course?

Keep in mind I have not Crawled (yet) but I am looking at all the options and threads and I thought I would ask about the dig system(s).

Thanks,

Chris
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:08 PM   #100
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nice way of doing it. i just forked out the money and bought the dna dig kit
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