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Thread: Dig build thread.

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Old 09-08-2008, 12:18 AM   #101
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i just got my ax10 a week ago and went to a comp, the guy that had a dig setup stomped. thanks for this dig thread alot of great info.
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Old 09-09-2008, 01:32 PM   #102
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Hello, I really want to build the dig system that you have explained. I just have a couple questions about when itís locked in for rear dig what keeps it from twisting. It looks like with the front tires pulling the rear tires will force the drive shaft around and twist the linkage. What am I missing, can you help.
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:31 PM   #103
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You are correct. This has been addressed a few different ways.

1- mentioned in this thread, is that you can add a plate with a channel that your link runs through. It is narrow and prevents the link from moving around, but not back and forth.
2- some have had luck using a flat link... like a piece ofa hacksaw blade.
3- I personally use a tie-rap to hold the dig link a consistant distance from my axle link. It slides back and forth but prevents spinning.

You dig?
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:25 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
You are correct. This has been addressed a few different ways.

1- mentioned in this thread, is that you can add a plate with a channel that your link runs through. It is narrow and prevents the link from moving around, but not back and forth.
2- some have had luck using a flat link... like a piece ofa hacksaw blade.
3- I personally use a tie-rap to hold the dig link a consistant distance from my axle link. It slides back and forth but prevents spinning.

You dig?
Oh my god why didn't I think of that?!? DUH! (hitting head with hand). I think I will go remove my aluminum channel plate and try some zipties.

Doh!

now I just need to buy a new servo and receiver since I had to gut my truck to run the Baja!
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Old 09-14-2008, 08:14 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
You are correct. This has been addressed a few different ways.

1- mentioned in this thread, is that you can add a plate with a channel that your link runs through. It is narrow and prevents the link from moving around, but not back and forth.
2- some have had luck using a flat link... like a piece ofa hacksaw blade.
3- I personally use a tie-rap to hold the dig link a consistant distance from my axle link. It slides back and forth but prevents spinning.

You dig?
im going to need to see a pic of the zip tie so i get a better idea im trying to get all the info i can before i even start
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:53 AM   #106
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Great info. Built my dig and works well. Now if I can just program that 3PM.
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Old 09-20-2008, 02:50 PM   #107
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Default threading nipple

I noticed that a lot of you guys had some problems with the threading. Try this. Sears make a tap holder that you can use with a 3/8 square drive "rachet" You can then use a 3/8" butterfly impact wrench. Set it on low torque. The impact action will shake chips off and you can go back and forth in an instant. No you will not break the tap. I use this method with taps down to 4/40. Keep the torque setting low. It is OK for it to hammer a little. With a 1/4' pipe tap you can really throw the coals to it without fear of breaking. Use an electric battery impact, screwdriver for smaller taps. Used to break taps all the time because of the side thrust. Using the power tool it is all rotational. Broke three or four taps in the last 15 years using power tools. Made all of my linkage using 3mm tap and electric screwdriver. Use soap or silicone for lube in the aluminum.
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Old 09-30-2008, 08:32 PM   #108
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I built one for my crawler and it worked good but I did have one problem the dig would lock the front male shaft and the rear pin at the same time when it would be in a hard twist. maybe I will have to shorten it
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:29 PM   #109
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Default Great info.

Great info. I made mine and it works great. Thanks guys.
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:32 AM   #110
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Sloooowwwwly getting my head around this!

But the steel pipe and nipples look a little 'agricultural'? Would this work if the central pipe were of just slightly larger bore than the internal dia?
Im thinking of drilling a brass rod in the lathe, then fitting with endcaps, these could be fixed with threadlock.

Looking at the nipple thats slotted for the drive pin, wouldnt it be better to slot on each flat of the nipple, then it would require even less of a turn to locate the pin?

Im still just a noob I know, I was all for 4WS, but having watched some YouTube of DIG in action, maybe I'll go for that....or both???
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Old 11-11-2008, 04:29 PM   #111
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nice writeup on thse. I'll be doing this to my new/used ax10 right away!
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Old 11-12-2008, 06:11 PM   #112
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Pretty slick Mc Giver. Took some creative skill to pull that one off!
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:46 PM   #113
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has anyone tryed to build a dig driveline out of MIP or punisher shafts?? I built one out of a punisher shaft. But im not really satifyed with the quaity. Im going to build another useing MIP. drive shafts. Splines seem to be much better quality. Wondering if anyone eles was doing this??
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:10 AM   #114
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I'm going to build one with mip's-just bought a 3 chanle radio-need a servo for the dig-I going to build the pede shafts first. experamant(?) with plastic shafts before a cuy the MIPs. I think if you cut the female part about 1/2" or so the cut 1/2" if male part half way over lap the two and pin them or put a screw throgh them so they slide on the male part. Matt
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:00 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDheavymetal View Post
I'm going to build one with mip's-just bought a 3 chanle radio-need a servo for the dig-I going to build the pede shafts first. experamant(?) with plastic shafts before a cuy the MIPs. I think if you cut the female part about 1/2" or so the cut 1/2" if male part half way over lap the two and pin them or put a screw throgh them so they slide on the male part. Matt
The MIPs might work, but you will have constant metal on metal rubbing. It might not be as smooth after a while as the plastic shafts.
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Old 12-01-2008, 02:33 AM   #116
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I'm going to give this a try. Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:05 PM   #117
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I went to ACE today and bought enough to build two and the tap, spent just under $13.00. Took about 3 hours and works great! This is a great sticky .

Last edited by goodoldlevi; 12-01-2008 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:07 PM   #118
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Quote:
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This thread needs to be a sticky.


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Old 12-26-2008, 06:20 PM   #119
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Lightbulb

I got to thinking, rather than go thru the work of threading both ends of the nipple, why not just remove the threads from one of the bushings until it fits snug, and weld a couple spots while you have the welder running?

you could still remove one end to replace the female shaft if needed.

anyway, just an idea! I just got the parts for this today, ended up getting some black iron bushings from lowes in the correct size. hoping they wont be to bad to grind!
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Old 01-03-2009, 10:48 PM   #120
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Ok so this looks awsome but I for some reason am still not grasping where the welding rod that was used goes ?? does this go through the middle and into both male shafts ??
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