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Old 01-08-2010, 11:10 PM   #161
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yes i agree , i think i will build one
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:50 AM   #162
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so i noticed in the pics that the male shaft from the axles has pins on it? The stampede shaft i bought doesent have these on it, and ur picture at the top has the male shaft without the pins on it
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:20 PM   #163
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I finished building the dig this weekend and it works great. It did take me some time to grasp the idea of how this dig works, but after careful reading this thread a couple of times I managed! Even though I had to do it twice (the first one was unusable).....

To give you guys an idea on my build I added two pics.

Martin



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Old 03-04-2010, 08:06 PM   #164
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Looks really good! I like it!
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:24 PM   #165
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Newb question but is it possible to have front and rear dig this way. Also what kind of servo and how much torque does it need? Could a mini servo be used. Thanks
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:25 PM   #166
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Yes, it is possible to have DIG on the front and back with this system. It won't be easy since you need to move your servos around. I have not seen pix yet so no help from me in that department.

You can use this link for reference (go to the last page and download the PDF).

Another option is to have DIG in the back and 4ws. I just saw it this weekend and it works great!

The servo does not have to be strong in this set-up. I am using a Traxxas 2056 with the following specs:

• 80 oz-in torque
• Transit time 0.23 sec/60

Good luck!

Martin
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:25 PM   #167
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Well, a link would be helpful:

Standard issue: Black/Green Bug Ax-10
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:20 AM   #168
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it looks complicated. wouldn't it be easier to buy one that bolts on
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:18 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin B. View Post
I finished building the dig this weekend and it works great. It did take me some time to grasp the idea of how this dig works, but after careful reading this thread a couple of times I managed! Even though I had to do it twice (the first one was unusable).....

To give you guys an idea on my build I added two pics.

Martin



Martin,

how did you make up your connection at the sleeve? Is that just a 15-20mm hex screw tapped into the sleeve? i just can not tell the connection between the servo linkage screw and the screw tapped into the axle sleeve. i will be trying this...your set up is the cleanest looking in this thread, imo.

thanks for any help, jeff
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:52 PM   #170
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The screw in the sleeve is indeed simply tapped into the sleeve. The sleeve itself was thick enough so that the screw would go 5 times round (which is plenty for grip). Then with some Loctite it is secured enough.

The screw itself is not a normal screw. I had the part AX30366 left because I used the axial universal joints:

http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/ax10o...niv_joint.html

I simply took the head of the AX30366 and used it to join the linkage with the sleeve.

Obviously, you can also use a regular screw and drill a hole in it. However, I thought that needed more precision than I could give it.

Hope it helps.

Martin
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:10 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockcrawler View Post
Here is the thread on how it workes.
New dig for "Rockcrawler#4"

A few people have asked me to do a build thread so here it is.

Parts you will need:
  1. 1-3/8 inch galvinized nipple
  2. 2-1/4 x 1/8 inch steel bushings
  3. a small piece of thin (.12) steel plate
  4. 2-male stampede shafts
  5. 1-female stampede shaft
  6. 1-turnbuckle or link to hook up to the servo
I just got back from Home depot and the 3/8 nipple is huge ass nipple that size must be wrong more likely you ment 1/8" that seems a good size.
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:51 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffhanger007 View Post
I just got back from Home depot and the 3/8 nipple is huge ass nipple that size must be wrong more likely you ment 1/8" that seems a good size.

I am a Pipefitter by trade.......I think I know my sizes.

I would also like to see you get a 1/4" bushing into a 1/8" pipe.


P.S. A drive shaft wont fit into a 1/8" pipe.
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:16 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockcrawler View Post
Here is the thread on how it workes.
New dig for "Rockcrawler#4"

A few people have asked me to do a build thread so here it is.

Parts you will need:
  1. 1-3/8 inch galvinized nipple
  2. 2-1/4 x 1/8 inch steel bushings
  3. a small piece of thin (.12) steel plate
  4. 2-male stampede shafts
  5. 1-female stampede shaft
  6. 1-turnbuckle or link to hook up to the servo

Ok, this is what I started with.


First thing is to cut the 3/8" galvinized nipple. I have not played with the length but I cut mine to 1 3/4".


Next, you will need to run a 1/4" tap into the nipple so that the 1/4x1/8 bushnig will thread into the nipple. You could probably get away without the next step and might even work better. I have only built 3 of these and I did them all the same. But I took the 1/4 x 1/8 bushings and cut them down to .40.


Next, you need to go ahead and weld the piece of thin metal onto the nipple so you will have something to connect the linkage to.


Now to get the bushing ready for lock. I used a angle grinder but there are other tools that you could easily use to do this. I cut 4 slots in the bushing so that the lock pin, which I will install later, will hold the rear end. Its easier to do this when its tight and on the nipple. This only needs to be done to one of the bushings.




Go ahead and install the other bushing in the opposite end of the nipple. So you should have a nipple with a bushing in each end. I dont remember the sixe bit I used, but you need one just big enough to drill the threads out of the inside of the bushing. As long as the male ends will slide through, it should be ok. The bushing on the left has been drilled.


This is what the bushings should look like when your done cutting on them.

Next, you will need to cut the female shaft. The length of the cut depends on the cuts of the nipple and the bushings. You want some slack for the shaft to move back and forth about 1/8" or so.


With the one of the bushings in, insert the female shaft inside the nipple.


One bushing in and the female shaft inside.



Now, just put the other bushing in. You should have this now.


You can use just about any type of metal to use for the pin lock out. I didnt get pics of the pin but you can see it in the pics below. Also, on the male shafts, its better to make all four slots on the shaft the same width so that the drive only has to make 1/4 of a turn to engage instead of 1/2 a turn.

Thats it. It looks kinda long, but the last 2 I made only took about an hour or so. Thanks for reading.

I know I probably left something out. :?Its late and I am tired so if you see something wrong, please let me know.
dude i like the drive shaft, i would make it myself but, just dont have enough patience or time to so it

nice work, looks great.
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:23 PM   #174
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In the process of building my dig at the moment and wanted to see where the shorter of the two male shafts is used,trany side or diff side?
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:07 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordstuff View Post
In the process of building my dig at the moment and wanted to see where the shorter of the two male shafts is used,trany side or diff side?



go back to post number 44 theres a pic of it there

by the way thx for all the info from everyone i will be starting mine tomorrow
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:21 PM   #176
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Love it. Seems sturdier than anything on the market. Might have to try this.
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:34 AM   #177
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??????!!!!!!
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:32 PM   #178
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Looks like a fun project.
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:18 PM   #179
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nice build
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:05 PM   #180
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I really like the effort of building from scratch!! That takes alot so props to that!!
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