New Skid #2
 

I changed up my design a little from my last skid:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/98321-ax10-skid-idea.html

It is some what similar to the one Shrek posted on here a few days ago.
I have only got to test the new design twice, so far no problems, still getting used to the setup.

First up, the parts needed:
1X 3mm Threaded Rod -
1X 1/4"x1 1/2"x1' Black delrin bar
3mm Lock nuts
6X 3/4"x 1/4" OD Aluminum Spacers

I had to cut down one of the chassis plates so that the motor would fit with a narrowed skid. I have the skid pretty narrow vs stock, I could get it cut down a little more and would just have to grind down the Aluminum Spacers a little as well. My goal was to have double triangulated links, and to have less skid plate surface area. I am considering changing the Aluminum Spacers to delrin as it may be better on the rocks.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG_1386.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG_1388.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG_1387.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG_1384.jpg

Here are my Evader shocks I used. I replaced the ends with Traxxas ones and inserted a 1/4" Aluminum Spacer into the other end.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG_1383.jpg

I still need to install my High clearance lower links and put them in the outer most position and slime the shocks because they are a bit leaky.

Very Nice.

I had not thought of simply mounting the links to something other then the sideplates or skid plate.

ky 18b that is awesome! great idea with the tubing. So you narrow it about to 70mm. Me and shrek narrowed ours to 55mm and its as smooth as butter. NICE "thumbsup"

Yeah, I was testing the waters on how narrow to get it. The day after I had my skid cut, I was on here and saw yours and how narrow it was. I would have to do a little more modding to drop 15mm.
I still have another 9" of delrin and over 2 feet of threaded rod so I can try an even more narrow version.
Going to need to figure out a way to mount a body off the top of the chassis. It would be pointless to narrow up the chassis and have 3" body mounts off each side :lol:

After we narrowed it, the stock body posts fit perfect with out no mods to the post. Me and shrek both used losi grappler bodies. But your mod is top shelf. "thumbsup"

looks good, you might want to make a couple exta braces between the chassis plates after you cut it becomes quite flexible. i just wonder if those nuts hanging on the side of the chassis are going to get hung up. let us know how it works for ya good job.:)

I like your idea but I think I can improve it a little bit if you dont mind me rambling. LOL Like shrek said I think the nuts sticking out are going to get caught on a lot of stuff.

My idea is:
Tap all three peices of aluminum on both sides or all the way throught. Use one of those peices of 3mm rod just long enough to thread into the middle peice of aluminum or all the way through the peice, slide your link on it and take your outside peice of aluminum and thread it onto the threads left, after getting everything tight put it under your rig and run two button head screws into it from each side. "thumbsup"

I hope you take this as advice. I mean it as a way to further better something thats seems like a really good idea as it is. I'm probably going to try to attemp this on my Edge.

Thats not a bad idea, I would need to get spacers with a smaller inside diameter to be able to tap it to 3mm. Right now the inside diameter is a little bigger than 3mm (I think 3.15mm) If I decide to change these spacers to delrin, I can get them small enough to tap to 3mm and that idea would work.

I really like the narrowed chassis, but I am wondering about a couple things. I don't know about you guys, but I scrape the crap out of my chassis. Now hanging my motor or trans out there does not appeal to me. I have seen this on the GC1 chassis and the SW-3, motors and trans all scared up from dragging the rocks.
Second with cutting out the chassis did you notice more flex in the side plates. I got more flex just by removing the upper battery plate.
I guess my concerns don't matter if you win...lol

you will get more flex in the plates thats why you have to add a couple more braces to it.;)

I hadn't thought about the possibility of banging up the motor more on a narrowed chassis. I wonder if it could keep an outrunner from turning in a really tight spot...

Complete noob question.... Are double triangulated links better than the stock setup? What are the advantages/disadvantages to this? Thanks.

this set up would be perfect with the edge chassis with its ridgidity. looks like the spacers would act as rollers...someone might want to look at a shaft bolt with a button head and drilled out on the other end with a button head screw.

mattg. double triangulated links will get rid of torque twist and also you get less axle steer with this setup. i think it is also more stable when side hilling hope this answers your question.:neutral:

Thanks Shrek! Just what I was looking for.

Cool the link setup should have come from the factory like this 8)

X2 I think that they should of did the reverse trianglelation. But they where trying to keep the cost down like most manufactors.

Thanks for all the comments guys! The setup is working great so far for me.
Who knows, maybe one of the vendors on here will like the idea and put something like this into production. :)

Ky18b you are running a 4-link right.

Yea, I have the TCS 4 link servo plate and boomerang plate.