rear axle steer help(not fix, but help)
 

if you move the upper link in one hole on the chassis side and toe the rear tires in very little (1/16th -1/8th).

helps a LOT with keeping the rear axle straight during a climb.....

just an fyi.

Maybe I'm not understanding you right.

I fail to see how making your pinion angle worse and knocking your tires outta wack is gonna help climbing?

Yup, more chance of binding, and less of the tire touching the ground. I bet that works great.

pinion angle is set for the stock ride height, everyone puts the rubber spacer inside the shocks and lowers the suspension. hence throwing off the pinion angle. If you move the upper link in, it drops the pinion angle down just enough to not bind, allow the rear axle to deal with torque and keep straighter when climbing.

the rear toe in, actually creates a situation where the tires with traction actually drive in towards the center of the chassis keeping the axle straighter in conjunction to the chassis.

so in turn, youre not "throwing anythong out of wack" your making a minor adjustment to your suspension to hold a line better....

you can try it or you can knock it. but ive done it in my rig and it works great.

maybe i should add that i put the spacer inside the shock, lowering the ride height, and i also use internal medium rate springs, with the lower links mounted inside the chassis.

i dont see how you can say that toe in will create less tire touching the ground?

youre changing the angle front to rear, not top to bottom, not camber, toe....

and yes. it does work great, and doesnt bind.

Not everyone. Ditch the stock shocks for a quality set"thumbsup"

If you drop the pinion down ANY,it gets worse. You REALLY need to RAISE the pinion or LOWER the truck to eliviate bind.



Sounds like you have loose links or something. The axle should stay in one place


You are throwing your toe out of wack. Running your toe out of wack has nothing to do with the suspention



I really am glad it's helping you. If you want to make real adjustments though:lol: Build some upper links the same length as the lowers. That will keep the pinion out of the dirt on droop. Double triangulate the thing front and rear. That will eliminate allot of axle steer.

no loose links, the axle doesnt move side to side, im talking axle steer, when the axle (due to torque) will drive one wheel in before the other.



ok, difference of opinion, no 1:1 vehicle uses perfectly straight geometry




maybe ill try this and see how it works... thanks for the additional tips.

I have to agree with CeeBlock on the rear toe. I kicked mine in about 1/16" and it helped my rear gain traction by basically creating a wedge.

How does toe effect the suspention though? It doesn't.

Who said it did?

I think he is trying to share something that works for him hoping it will help someone else out. I think it's a good idea because like he said no 1.1 uses perfect geometry, in a 1.1 the toe, caster and camber are never perfect there always one way or another never perfect. I dont think you should knock the way people set-up there trucks because I know mine isn't the same as yours. "thumbsup"

CeeBlock did.


You guys keep bring up 1:1 toe right? How do you adjust the toe in/out,caster/camber on the rear of your 1:1? Hmmmm

With all your 1:1 stuff.....would you want to put the U joints of your driveshafts in MORE bind???? NOPE! You'd be asking for trouble. CeeBlock is adding angle to his yokes,bad deal if you ask me. These ain't Revo shafts here:lol:

Nobodies knocking anything. Like I said,I'm glad it's working good for him. BUT,I don't see these mods doing anything.

BTW,I tried fooling with toe in/out on the rear of my AX-10 a couple months ago. Didn't seem to do anything.

i didnt say the rear toe effected the suspension. I said it keeps the rear straighter. by driving the rear wheels ever so slightly into the center of the chassis.... reading is your friend.


read the exact quotes that you yourself quoted from me. I never once said that toe effects suspension, i said it effects the drive angle of the axle it self under load.

you think its perfectly straight from the assembly line? better get out your tape measure....

if you have an adjustment that solves a problem and doesnt create another one then why not.

youre the one assuming that there is a binding issue. I have no binding. at full droop, at full compression, no binding.

i dont know where youre getting all this binding crap. do you think that if my driveshaft was binding i would 1) keep my truck that way or 2) suggest that everyone else try it?

comeon.


I all complete and utter honesty, its not an argument. its a tip....... if YOU think your a better builder and have better ideas. dont use my tip, its pretty simple really, try it or not.... i dont care. obviously you just want something to argue about......

Never said it was perfectly straight. I asked how you adjusted the toe in/out on your 1:1's rear axle. Big difference.

It's a moot point. Simple enough,some aspects of 1:1 can be scaled down and applied....Some can't.






Any way you look at it,if you can see it or not,adding more angle to your drive shafts yoke....there IS more bind. It may last a good while and work good. Never the less,the added angle WILL accelerate wear and cause premature failure.


Who's arguing? It's a discussion forum and we're discussing your mods.:lol:

Never said I was a better builder.

I`d like to try this, as I have my stock lower links just hangin around. Got any pictures of how its set up? I have the TCS bommerang mount in the rear, and the regular tri link mount in front, and I moved the lower links inboard and spaced then in on the axle end like they did on the CKRC boss build. I have alot of rear axle steer, but its tough to tell in the front.

Any suggestions?