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01-26-2008, 11:35 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Salem
Posts: 26
| rear axle steer help(not fix, but help)
if you move the upper link in one hole on the chassis side and toe the rear tires in very little (1/16th -1/8th). helps a LOT with keeping the rear axle straight during a climb..... just an fyi. |
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01-26-2008, 11:39 AM | #2 |
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
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Maybe I'm not understanding you right. I fail to see how making your pinion angle worse and knocking your tires outta wack is gonna help climbing? |
01-26-2008, 11:43 AM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 2,489
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01-26-2008, 11:50 AM | #4 | |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Salem
Posts: 26
| Quote:
the rear toe in, actually creates a situation where the tires with traction actually drive in towards the center of the chassis keeping the axle straighter in conjunction to the chassis. so in turn, youre not "throwing anythong out of wack" your making a minor adjustment to your suspension to hold a line better.... you can try it or you can knock it. but ive done it in my rig and it works great. maybe i should add that i put the spacer inside the shock, lowering the ride height, and i also use internal medium rate springs, with the lower links mounted inside the chassis. | |
01-26-2008, 11:52 AM | #5 | |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Salem
Posts: 26
| Quote:
youre changing the angle front to rear, not top to bottom, not camber, toe.... and yes. it does work great, and doesnt bind. | |
01-26-2008, 12:03 PM | #6 | |||
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
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If you drop the pinion down ANY,it gets worse. You REALLY need to RAISE the pinion or LOWER the truck to eliviate bind. Quote:
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I really am glad it's helping you. If you want to make real adjustments though Build some upper links the same length as the lowers. That will keep the pinion out of the dirt on droop. Double triangulate the thing front and rear. That will eliminate allot of axle steer. | |||
01-26-2008, 12:11 PM | #7 | |||
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Salem
Posts: 26
| Quote:
no loose links, the axle doesnt move side to side, im talking axle steer, when the axle (due to torque) will drive one wheel in before the other. Quote:
ok, difference of opinion, no 1:1 vehicle uses perfectly straight geometry Quote:
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01-26-2008, 01:04 PM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cotati
Posts: 704
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I have to agree with CeeBlock on the rear toe. I kicked mine in about 1/16" and it helped my rear gain traction by basically creating a wedge.
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01-26-2008, 01:07 PM | #9 |
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
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How does toe effect the suspention though? It doesn't.
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01-26-2008, 01:14 PM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cotati
Posts: 704
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01-26-2008, 01:18 PM | #11 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 506
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I think he is trying to share something that works for him hoping it will help someone else out. I think it's a good idea because like he said no 1.1 uses perfect geometry, in a 1.1 the toe, caster and camber are never perfect there always one way or another never perfect. I dont think you should knock the way people set-up there trucks because I know mine isn't the same as yours. |
01-26-2008, 01:48 PM | #12 | ||
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
| CeeBlock did. Quote:
Quote:
You guys keep bring up 1:1 toe right? How do you adjust the toe in/out,caster/camber on the rear of your 1:1? Hmmmm With all your 1:1 stuff.....would you want to put the U joints of your driveshafts in MORE bind???? NOPE! You'd be asking for trouble. CeeBlock is adding angle to his yokes,bad deal if you ask me. These ain't Revo shafts here Nobodies knocking anything. Like I said,I'm glad it's working good for him. BUT,I don't see these mods doing anything. BTW,I tried fooling with toe in/out on the rear of my AX-10 a couple months ago. Didn't seem to do anything. | ||
01-26-2008, 02:13 PM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Salem
Posts: 26
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i didnt say the rear toe effected the suspension. I said it keeps the rear straighter. by driving the rear wheels ever so slightly into the center of the chassis.... reading is your friend. read the exact quotes that you yourself quoted from me. I never once said that toe effects suspension, i said it effects the drive angle of the axle it self under load. Last edited by CeeBlock; 01-26-2008 at 02:21 PM. |
01-26-2008, 02:18 PM | #14 | ||
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Salem
Posts: 26
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Quote:
youre the one assuming that there is a binding issue. I have no binding. at full droop, at full compression, no binding. i dont know where youre getting all this binding crap. do you think that if my driveshaft was binding i would 1) keep my truck that way or 2) suggest that everyone else try it? comeon. I all complete and utter honesty, its not an argument. its a tip....... if YOU think your a better builder and have better ideas. dont use my tip, its pretty simple really, try it or not.... i dont care. obviously you just want something to argue about...... Last edited by CeeBlock; 01-26-2008 at 02:30 PM. | ||
01-26-2008, 02:55 PM | #15 | |||
TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,855
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It's a moot point. Simple enough,some aspects of 1:1 can be scaled down and applied....Some can't. Quote:
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Never said I was a better builder. | |||
01-28-2008, 08:06 AM | #16 | |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: MA
Posts: 36
| Quote:
Any suggestions? | |
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