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Thread: Axial AX-10 Scorpion 1/10 Rock Crawler Kit Build, Chapter 3 Add on Parts.

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Old 01-31-2008, 09:52 AM   #1
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Default Axial AX-10 Scorpion 1/10 Rock Crawler Kit Build, Chapter 3 Add on Parts.

Chapter 3 is a short and actually and easy one. This Chapter will show how to install the New Rear Steer Kit from Axial, the Drive Shaft Collars that help prevent the shafts from popping under high loads, Punsher Aluminum Drive Shafts, Four Aluminum Axial shock bodies, a Castle Creations BEC, and a new 860 MaxAmps saddle pack that fit's on the TCS front axle battery plates.

Now if you don't compete or do but not a lot the Axial Rear Steering Kit is a really neat add-on for the rig. In this chapter I will show you how easy it is to install and if you happen to have an older Spektrum DX3 TX I will show how to install a Center off toggle switch that will allow you to have the wheel full lock right or left, but you can also still use the original switch for a quick steer shot.

Again I would like to thank Matt Kearney at Axial for supplying me with the Axial parts and Kevin from The Crawler Store (TCS) for the Punisher Shafts.




PS: On another note to those of you that are using the Castle Creations Mamba Max ESC they have released a new Firm Ware update that solves a loy of the Brushless motor problems. With this update I have switched back to the Holmes Hobbies CrawlMaster Sport Outrunner and the noise is way down and the slow starts have vastly improved. I can honestly say that with a 13 tooth pinion on it I am very happy. It's a power house even on an 860 11.1 volt saddle pack.

Ok on with chapter three.


Jason
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:53 AM   #2
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So to start off these add-ons are really pretty easy to do. We will start with the biggest one which is of course the Axial Rear Steer Kit:

Part #AX30492
EAN 877493004378
Description: AX10 Scorpion Rear Steer Kit
List $ 35.00

You will also need another servo (a good idea is to go with the same as what you have on the front of the Crawler)

And a Transmitter with a 3 channel or a servo mixing device. (I'm using the Old Style Spektrum DX3)

Now if you built your original AX-10 you already know how to install the steering assembly and know that it's one of the easier steps of the build. To start simply remove the original rear toe adjustment turnbuckles. Now Break out the Main link rod and assemble the ball link ends and threaded studs. Next find the Servo link rod and do the same to it, install it's ball links. Next find the nuts, bolts and proper spacers that will hold the rods to the rear spindles. Now this is where we will change it up a bit. Many of you I'm sure have noticed that with the main link rod below the spindle mounts gets hung up on rocks really easy. The solution for this both front and back is to mount it on top of the Spindle arms instead of below. This way it doesn't get in the way. Once you have both rods secured to the spindles you can then mount up your servo of choice. I went with the same Waypoint Servo that I have on the front so that I have equal power front and rear. Once your servo is in place on the servo mount you can them pick the proper servo horn from the rear steering kit and attach that to the servo and then connect the servo connecting rod.

See pictures:
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:54 AM   #3
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Now that the Steering Kit and servo are mounted you can plug the servo into the receiver. Now we need to jump to the trans mitter and make a little mod there. First thing you need if you going to modify the older DX3 is to go to Radio Shack and get a Micro Center Off toggle switch. This switch is small enough to fit into the Grip area of your TX at the point where your thumb wraps aroun it allowing you to either flip it up for full left rear steer or down for full right reat steer. But this mod will leave the original push button in tact and functional so you can still bump it for just a quick rear steer shot in either direction.

Now simply remove the battery cover and the TX pack from the TX. Next pull out the screws that hold the TX case together. Once all the screws are out carefully separate the two case halves. Note that there is a wire for the ant. that you need to carefully remove from it's mounting terminal. Once that is disconnected set that side off and out of your way. Next you need to remove a couple of screws that hold the switch PC board into place over the two side switches. Once that is out of the way drill a hole like you see in the pictures for the switch to push thru. With three stands of wire soldered to the switch place the switch into the hole and attach the locking ring and nut on the outside of the TX case to hold it into place. Once the Switch is mounted you can place the PC board back into place making sure that your switch wires clear the board. Some bending of the switches wire terminals might be needed. Next Locate the three places where the wires need to be soldered on to the PC board. Carefully solder the wires in to place. Once finshed route the wires so they aren't in the way of the switches or TX case when you put it back together. Go ahead and re attach the Ant. wire and screw the TX case back together and install the battery back in. Next step will be setting up the TX so that the rear sterring operates the way you want it.

Jason
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:54 AM   #4
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Now for Transmitter set up with the "older" DX3 you can either mix the steering with channel 3 or set it so that it operates with the switch. It's your choice but for what I did with the Switch mod I'm going that route. Here's some shots of what the steering looks like. Another thing you need to do if going with rear steering is to boost the power output to them. This can be done with a Castle Creations BEC unit, they run about 24 bucks. This little unit when wired in will allow you to adjust the amount of voltage going to the servo's. See the problem is that the Mamba Max ESC limits this voltage to 4.8 volts so Now with the BEC installed you can crank it up to the 6 Volts the servo's really need to perform well. The one shot of the receiver show's the positive wire from the esc plug removed this needs to be done when using the CC BEC unit. This is a definite must for anyone that uses a Mamba Max ESC even with one servo. It will bring new life and added strength into your steering.

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Old 01-31-2008, 09:55 AM   #5
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Now that you have rear steering there are a few other things you can upgrade. One of those being the shocks. Matt Also sent me a set of Aluminum shock bodies which is a great upgrade. As many know in my first competition I popped a shock and the body was punchured by a screw on the chassis. Now switching these over is really simple also just take apart the shocks and put them back together with the aluminum bodies. But when you screw on the caps use pipe tape this will help seal and lock the threads. Now another thing I did was to shim the shocks out and away from the Chassis sides I noticed that one flaw with the "stage 2" suspesion kit is that it puts the caps really tight to the chassis which causes them to bind up, thus causing the caps to pop. Once I did this this the flex of the suspesion is smoother and more fluid like with no binding.


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Old 01-31-2008, 09:56 AM   #6
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The next thing you can upgrade are the driveshafts. You can do this a few ways. The first easiest way is to get a set of the Axial Drivshaft rings:

AX10 Driveshaft rings


Features

Prevents the driveshaft from popping off the metal yokes
Gray anodized aluminum
Installs easily and quickly
2 pieces fits one driveshaft
Part numbers and EAN Codes



Part #AX30493
EAN 877493004385
Description: Driveshaft Rings - Gray (2pcs)
List $ 12.50


These Rings when glued onto the stock shafts will stop them from popping apart under high loads. It's a great quick fix if your stock shafts are having problems.

Now another Driveshaft fix is to replace them with Traxxas Stampede Shafts they are a tad smaller in Diameter but the plastic tends to be a bit stronger.

Now the Ultimate Driveshaft upgrade is the Polished Aluminum Punisher Driveshafts. You won't break these which means you'll need to be a bit more careful when you bind up on a rock these won't break but something else might.
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:56 AM   #7
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Now that you have these simple easy upgrades done it's time to add a Nice Neat little Li-Po Saddle pack to those brand new TCS battery plates. We at MaxAmps.com can make just about any battery pack you need. I had the guys make me an 860 Mah saddle pack from two 430 3 cell packsand it's perfect. If you'd like one of these just request that it's made with smaller gauge wire such as 18 Awg this will ensure that the pack fits under the servo plate and between the King pin pivot and the axle pumpkin. It's a great pack and offers a different option than the 6 cell 2/3rds saddle packs. Just remember if you need smoething you don't see on the website call us and chances are we can make it for you.


I'd like to thank Matt at Axial and Kevin at TCS for the help and stay tuned for Chapter 4 coming real soon.


Jason
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:22 AM   #8
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Wow, like the batt pack! Whats the cost of something like that and what kind of run time you getting?
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocksmith View Post
Wow, like the batt pack! Whats the cost of something like that and what kind of run time you getting?
X2! That caught my eye before anything else.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:52 AM   #10
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I'll check on the price and get back to ya both. Run time should be around 25 minutes or so I'll time it from full charge tonight and post the results. And remeber I'm running two servo's at 6 volts. And a Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster sport w/13t pinion and only hitting 14 amps under high loads. It's a great set-up.

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Old 01-31-2008, 11:55 AM   #11
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Here's what I just got back from the shop.

$51.99 same as the brick format on the website. For now, they can order that pack and put a note they want it in saddle format with 18AWG wire. It should be on the website under the Axial packs sometime tomorrow.



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Old 01-31-2008, 01:06 PM   #12
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Cool deal. Definetly want to know the run time on that pack. That is the same setup Im using so runtime would be the same for me as well.

So the way its wired, it would charge as a 3s pack?
Also whats the weight on the pack?
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:14 PM   #13
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Yes it's still a 3S pack. It's made from two of our 430 3S packs wired parallel. 39 grams per 430 3S pack. I'll start charging them right now.

Jason
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Old 01-31-2008, 02:22 PM   #14
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Nice stuff Jason! Cool that the 860s fit on the TCS plates.

I use a MaxAmps 2 cell 860 mah battery and with my TCS BM9 I can get almost 30 minutes from it. I use an Airtronics 361 servo and MPI regulator, and drive slowly.

Actually, the very first time I used the 860 mah packs I used only 106 mah on the first course, and 255 on the second course. And the second course had a wheel spinning climb up a slick rock. I used up a 2 minute time limit spinning the wheels the whole time. So they definitely work great for a comp course.
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Old 01-31-2008, 04:53 PM   #15
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Yup that should be about right our 1720 will go for about 45 minutes from what Matt Kearney at Axial was telling me but he said he drives to fast . I know My bud Tony did three runs at our first comp on a 430 3S pack and still had power left. But he thought a couple of times he was pushing that little pack a bit to hard. They are a great saddle pack as they don't hit anything or get in the way. I was even running the idea of another set on the rear axle with another set of plates. The weight is so minimal it wouldn't hurt at all.



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Old 02-04-2008, 07:49 PM   #16
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Did you ever come up with an average runtime with these saddle packs?
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