Looking good Brad, I'm liking the servo mounted right there. It's nice and low so it can clear the body with out having to cut a huge hole in the hood. I might have to steal your idea.:lol:

Looks great.

I'm curious. Why did you choose to mount the servo in that location? I understand that you'll create almost an optimum drag link angle. But, now the batteries are going to sit slightly higher than they would if they were mounted on both sides of a servo that was in its stock location.

X2 I was wondering the same thing. Even with the servo mount that you can get from axial, depending on what tire you run or wheel, they rub on the servo. Also it shortens your drag link angle and puts more stress on the servo.

Lookin Good, get out and scratch those shiny MSD's. The glare is blinding me!!:lol: I have my servo on the same side and straight up and down. I have enough room to get a 9cell 2/3 pack on there too. But like Wrecker said, I have the hole in my body for clearence. I have been thinking of redoing it, but the rig has been performing pretty good lately!!! Like the old saying "If it ain't broke""thumbsup" CAn't wait to see it in action:shock: What the hell am I saying, I really do not want to see it at a comp. Don't you have to work on Sundays now!!!:-P

Damn that is a nice looking rig. Serious experience points allow you to know just how to build these right. I can only wait to be like this someday!

You always are so willing to share your set ups. It has been something that has helped so many of us to build and preform better. Because of your body off, set up sharing philosophy I for one will be rolling a Bender chassis. Thanks "thumbsup"

Something I have always felt about the better guys in crawling in general.

Nitro sedan was such a pain in the ass and the racers were such weenies.

Mr. Rizzo, Sir you are right on, and that is why this hobby excels from all the rest. I raced offroad for many years and at the end that was the biggest problem that everything was " TOP SECRET " and there where to many want-e-be's.

Sorry Brad I'll get back on task.

The amount of help here is awesome. At comps the comrodery (sp?) is huge. I think it is way cool how 5 guys will scramble to find a part to help a fellow competitor.

Sorry Brad about the derail.

You are a great guy also and nice build. "thumbsup"

Looks good buddy. Nice to see you on the mountain yesterday.
It was a good day to play.
8)

Very true Franky, everybody is incredible on RCC and many are setting a excellent example. But not many Champions in any form of RC I've been involved in ever gave body off shots and has been explicit about his own set up like Bender. :shock:

Looks good. "thumbsup"

Thanks, I've been thinking about this servo mount for a while now. Looks like everything will work out fine. I thought I was going to have issues with the servo hitting the shock, but there is plenty of room. If the tire hits the servo mount after I mod the outer axles for a little extra steering, I'll probably adapt a pair of RCP CVD wideners. That's what we did to Sparky's rig to get the tires out of his battery while turning. ;-)

It won't shorten the drag link, I'm going to run a long one to the passenger side. ;-)

There are a few reasons I mounted the servo there.
1. It sits lower then stock
2. It allows me to mount the body lower, with less trimming.
3. It lets me run a single 8 cell pack, and lay the cells along the axle housing in one shrink wrapped package. Instead of the split 6 cell pack I came up with before nats.
4. Better drag link angle.
5. A little lower CG in general, which helps in every situation

Thanks, she'll be all scratched up soon enough. :lol:

No Sundays at work for me. ;-)

Thanks. In order for me to really check servo placement, I had to mock everything up......i.e. bolt up the chassis, shocks, wheels and tires, get ride height in the area you need it, etc. It takes more time to build rigs like this, but it's the best way to get a proper fit and finish. Before I even start to mock/modify anything on my rigs, I try to visualize how it's going to affect everything else. You always think you can make a mod/repair in no time, but it almost always affects something else. :lol:

Thanks Mr. Miyagi. :lol:

I'm thinking 3 cells on the actual axle tube, and 5 on top of that. But, I need to get in there and take some more measurements first.

Thanks Norm. I think that sharing info is a critical part of this hobby, and it's growing popularity. I don't want to see this sport turn cut throat. I don't mind sharing info with people. Even after I help them, they still need to pick the right lines and execute them to beat me. "thumbsup"

Thanks, and I agree 100%. 8)

Good to see you too. Crawling at Flatirons always makes for a good day. "thumbsup"

Thanks again Norm. 8)

This site was started so we could share info, and progress the sport. And it seems to be working. "thumbsup"

Maybe this crawling thing isn't a fad after all. :lol:

Brad the build looks great man... I did this same build late last season, with a few different odds and ends... by the way love the chassis... I noticed your running your shocks and bottom links in the same position as i was at first, I found that the bottom links tend to knock the spring retainers off in certain situations.... I resolved it by turning my shocks upside down (knowing this isnt the best thing for the shocks) I'm using the losi shocks now to...

here is my build thread
http://www.gsrcrc.com/showthread.php?t=709

Thanks. I started out with the lower links on the outside and shocks on the inside. I noticed the links hitting the spring cups too. So, I flipped them around and now the spring cup just clears the lower link. "thumbsup"

I tried to check out your build, but I'm not a member, so I can't see it.

damn forgot you had to be a member to see those pages... ok here ya go i thru it up on another server.....

ax10/sw3 build link

Nice looking build, I like the custom steel tranny outputs. "thumbsup"

Truck looks sweet Brad, always paying attention to the little details8) Looking forward to your new paint scheme;-), they always flow so nicely.

looks good Brad , I might have to build a S-DUB TREE Scorpiion myself . hmmmmmm ;-)

Thanks guys. 8)

I recieved a little care package from RCP today, aluminum C's and high clearance knuckles. "thumbsup"

Here's a pic of the new goods beside the stock equipment. Install was a piece of cake. Drop the bearings into the aluminum knuckles, install king pin bushings, then slide outer axle into place. Install the clockable axle C's, then the knuckle assembly. I used standard cap screws on top to secure the knuckles to the C's, and button heads on the bottom. You can see there is plenty of room for more steering. ;-) 8)

After installing the front wheels I noticed some drag in the front axle when I'd spin the tires. Then, I noticed the HC knuckle's arms were rubbing the inner rings on my beadlocks. I could take a dremel to the inner rings, and probably fix the problem fairly easy. But, I want a little more width out front. So, I added the small wideners that come with the RCP TLT CVD's. They add a 1/4" a side, or 1/2" total to your overall width. Once you do that though, the outer axle's threads barely stick out of the wheel. I used a pair of old barrel nuts from another set of wideners to fix this problem. I used a small metal spacer that I got from kris to take up the extra slack of the barrel nuts being too long. Thanks for the idea kris. I also had to drill the center holes in my front wheels out to a 1/4", to clear the larger diameter barrel nuts. After making these few mods everything clears with ease. The knuckles clear the inner beadlock rings now, and the tire also clears the steering servo better. "thumbsup"

It sits at 10 1/2" wide out front now. I may trim a little off the wideners to narrow the overall width a hair more. I want to do some real world testing before I cut anything though. ;-)

wow thats a realy tight fit. Everything is looking good and coming together nicley.:lol:

Brad with the wideners it looks to be zero back offset now?? if so with this wider track width, how much will this reduce your steering?... looks like it would be getting as wide as a wheely king axle and the steering was always the problem with them... your thoughts?

i had the same problem with the rcp knuckles. few minutes with the dremel and its perfect. your solution works great too!

Thanks. 8)

I used to run my TLT with a 10 1/2" width out front and 10" in the rear. That's where I'm sitting now with this build, so it's not really that wide. Plus, once I modify the outer axles for more steering, I'll need that little bit of extra width so the tires and wheels clear the front steering servo, shock, and links. 8)

If I find the width now is too much, I'll probably do the same to mine. "thumbsup"

Are going to clearance the stub shafts just like you would on the TLT axles? 1/16" off the cup and rebevel the inside? i was wondering this the other night, but it seemed like the stub shaft was bottoming out on the shaft itself, not the cup, but it is difficult to see in there when everything is turned at full lock. Hope that makes some sense.

Man, I really appreciate seeing this build thread. I have a box of parts sitting out in the garage for my ax10 build and I was planning on using the RCP knuckles and the MSD wheels. Got the knuckles, waiting for my wheels to ship....I would have ran into the same issue.

Are you guys planning on dremel-ing away part of the knuckles or the beadlock ring? Since I don't have the wheels in hand it looks like there is not much material there on those rings....

-Mike

certainly shave the knuckles. much easier to do a nice clean job on.

That is how I plan to mod the outer axles. You can grind the length of the drive cups back, then use a lathe or dremel to chamfer the inside when finished. The dogbones will hang out of the drive cups a little while turning, but it's not a problem usually.

Just to keep the knuckles at full strength, I'd chamfer the backside of the rings to solve the clearance issue.

You got any pics of your knuckles kurt?

best i can do on such short notice. the ol blackberry pearl doesn't take the best pictures.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...0/IMG00322.jpg

Thanks, that works. Looks like it didn't take much to get them to clear the wheels. "thumbsup"

not much at all. i am running the proline 8 shooters and they just barely rubbed the edge. (looked the same as yours) The strength compromised is negligible.

Yup. I was running the prolines and I ground the knuckles to accept them. I have since gone to the MSD wheels but left the clearanced knuckles on. Even ground down our knuckles are way stronger than stock.

nice build8)

Good point, aluminum knuckles beat plastic anyday. "thumbsup"

Thanks. 8)

It'll never work.

Don't hate. :flipoff:

I managed to get a second steering servo plate made up. I had to move the servo up a little from the previous spot so the tie rod would clear a servo horn. I mounted it on an angle this time. I just need to drill another hole or two and tie it to the axle tube now. I also hacked up one of the stock AX10 servo mounts for the rear axle, to clean it up a little. Someone else may come in here and claim to be the first to make this mod. Don't believe him!! :lol:

I see another cool a#$ you tube video from you in the near future,"thumbsup"cuse you sure do know how to shootem'8)"thumbsup"Great build Bender,Top Notch as usual!!!!!!!!!!

Who Put you down!!! :lol:

Jason is hatin because he keeps breaking stuff.:-P Hey Bender, Which kind of MSD's are you running? I have the normal offset and have had no clearance issues, You running the narrower Axial offset? Your black spring on the left rear, is that a stampede spring?

Haha, copy cat! Now you just need to add some speed holes to it;)