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Thread: New Comp Build.......SWX......New Production Pics!!

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Old 03-19-2008, 04:32 AM   #101
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After installing the front wheels I noticed some drag in the front axle when I'd spin the tires. Then, I noticed the HC knuckle's arms were rubbing the inner rings on my beadlocks. I could take a dremel to the inner rings, and probably fix the problem fairly easy. But, I want a little more width out front. So, I added the small wideners that come with the RCP TLT CVD's. They add a 1/4" a side, or 1/2" total to your overall width. Once you do that though, the outer axle's threads barely stick out of the wheel. I used a pair of old barrel nuts from another set of wideners to fix this problem. I used a small metal spacer that I got from kris to take up the extra slack of the barrel nuts being too long. Thanks for the idea kris. I also had to drill the center holes in my front wheels out to a 1/4", to clear the larger diameter barrel nuts. After making these few mods everything clears with ease. The knuckles clear the inner beadlock rings now, and the tire also clears the steering servo better.

It sits at 10 1/2" wide out front now. I may trim a little off the wideners to narrow the overall width a hair more. I want to do some real world testing before I cut anything though.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:51 AM   #102
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wow thats a realy tight fit. Everything is looking good and coming together nicley.
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:51 AM   #103
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Brad with the wideners it looks to be zero back offset now?? if so with this wider track width, how much will this reduce your steering?... looks like it would be getting as wide as a wheely king axle and the steering was always the problem with them... your thoughts?
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:59 AM   #104
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i had the same problem with the rcp knuckles. few minutes with the dremel and its perfect. your solution works great too!
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:55 PM   #105
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wow thats a realy tight fit. Everything is looking good and coming together nicley.
Thanks.

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Brad with the wideners it looks to be zero back offset now?? if so with this wider track width, how much will this reduce your steering?... looks like it would be getting as wide as a wheely king axle and the steering was always the problem with them... your thoughts?
I used to run my TLT with a 10 1/2" width out front and 10" in the rear. That's where I'm sitting now with this build, so it's not really that wide. Plus, once I modify the outer axles for more steering, I'll need that little bit of extra width so the tires and wheels clear the front steering servo, shock, and links.

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i had the same problem with the rcp knuckles. few minutes with the dremel and its perfect. your solution works great too!
If I find the width now is too much, I'll probably do the same to mine.
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Old 03-19-2008, 02:47 PM   #106
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Are going to clearance the stub shafts just like you would on the TLT axles? 1/16" off the cup and rebevel the inside? i was wondering this the other night, but it seemed like the stub shaft was bottoming out on the shaft itself, not the cup, but it is difficult to see in there when everything is turned at full lock. Hope that makes some sense.
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Old 03-19-2008, 03:19 PM   #107
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Man, I really appreciate seeing this build thread. I have a box of parts sitting out in the garage for my ax10 build and I was planning on using the RCP knuckles and the MSD wheels. Got the knuckles, waiting for my wheels to ship....I would have ran into the same issue.

Are you guys planning on dremel-ing away part of the knuckles or the beadlock ring? Since I don't have the wheels in hand it looks like there is not much material there on those rings....

-Mike
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Old 03-19-2008, 03:40 PM   #108
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certainly shave the knuckles. much easier to do a nice clean job on.
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:02 PM   #109
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Are going to clearance the stub shafts just like you would on the TLT axles? 1/16" off the cup and rebevel the inside? i was wondering this the other night, but it seemed like the stub shaft was bottoming out on the shaft itself, not the cup, but it is difficult to see in there when everything is turned at full lock. Hope that makes some sense.
That is how I plan to mod the outer axles. You can grind the length of the drive cups back, then use a lathe or dremel to chamfer the inside when finished. The dogbones will hang out of the drive cups a little while turning, but it's not a problem usually.

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Man, I really appreciate seeing this build thread. I have a box of parts sitting out in the garage for my ax10 build and I was planning on using the RCP knuckles and the MSD wheels. Got the knuckles, waiting for my wheels to ship....I would have ran into the same issue.

Are you guys planning on dremel-ing away part of the knuckles or the beadlock ring? Since I don't have the wheels in hand it looks like there is not much material there on those rings....

-Mike
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certainly shave the knuckles. much easier to do a nice clean job on.
Just to keep the knuckles at full strength, I'd chamfer the backside of the rings to solve the clearance issue.

You got any pics of your knuckles kurt?
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:13 PM   #110
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best i can do on such short notice. the ol blackberry pearl doesn't take the best pictures.

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Old 03-19-2008, 04:17 PM   #111
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best i can do on such short notice. the ol blackberry pearl doesn't take the best pictures.
Thanks, that works. Looks like it didn't take much to get them to clear the wheels.
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:45 PM   #112
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not much at all. i am running the proline 8 shooters and they just barely rubbed the edge. (looked the same as yours) The strength compromised is negligible.
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:08 PM   #113
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not much at all. i am running the proline 8 shooters and they just barely rubbed the edge. (looked the same as yours) The strength compromised is negligible.
Yup. I was running the prolines and I ground the knuckles to accept them. I have since gone to the MSD wheels but left the clearanced knuckles on. Even ground down our knuckles are way stronger than stock.
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Old 03-20-2008, 02:34 AM   #114
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nice build
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:23 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurt View Post
not much at all. i am running the proline 8 shooters and they just barely rubbed the edge. (looked the same as yours) The strength compromised is negligible.
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Yup. I was running the prolines and I ground the knuckles to accept them. I have since gone to the MSD wheels but left the clearanced knuckles on. Even ground down our knuckles are way stronger than stock.
Good point, aluminum knuckles beat plastic anyday.

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nice build
Thanks.
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:31 AM   #116
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nice build
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Thanks.
It'll never work.
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Old 03-20-2008, 04:50 AM   #117
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It'll never work.
Don't hate.

I managed to get a second steering servo plate made up. I had to move the servo up a little from the previous spot so the tie rod would clear a servo horn. I mounted it on an angle this time. I just need to drill another hole or two and tie it to the axle tube now. I also hacked up one of the stock AX10 servo mounts for the rear axle, to clean it up a little. Someone else may come in here and claim to be the first to make this mod. Don't believe him!!
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:24 AM   #118
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I see another cool a#$ you tube video from you in the near future,cuse you sure do know how to shootem'Great build Bender,Top Notch as usual!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:40 AM   #119
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Who Put you down!!!

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It'll never work.
Jason is hatin because he keeps breaking stuff.:-P Hey Bender, Which kind of MSD's are you running? I have the normal offset and have had no clearance issues, You running the narrower Axial offset? Your black spring on the left rear, is that a stampede spring?
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:58 AM   #120
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I also hacked up one of the stock AX10 servo mounts for the rear axle, to clean it up a little. Someone else may come in here and claim to be the first to make this mod. Don't believe him!!
Haha, copy cat! Now you just need to add some speed holes to it;)
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