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| | #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Johns Is.
Posts: 30
| I just got my ax10 and killed the rear shaft already. Found one of the cross pins in the axle yoke was not centered and I think that started the breakage. I was at the hobby town earlier and picked up some traxxas shafts...looked similar, also grabbed some of their plastic yokes...didn't have metal ones in stock. Post some pics and info if any of yall can help.Chuck |
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| | #2 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hudson
Posts: 408
| Punisher shafts is what I just ordered. but I am eager to read your thread and see if there is any better ones!!! here is where I ordered mine from i had the same problem http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.p...roducts_id=691 |
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| | #3 |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,941
| Use Maxx 2.5 driveshafts with the stock AX10 metal yokes. Maxx Shafts made easy. |
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| | #4 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: OP KS
Posts: 205
| Punishers are HEAVY. Here are some threads to read: witch driveshafts fit? Upgraded driveshafts and Yokes |
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| | #5 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Corbin KY
Posts: 395
| stock shafts with metal yokes in the front and maxx shafts in the rear. |
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| | #6 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hudson
Posts: 408
| well on the punisher shafts isn't heavy good. well thats very low so it may help correct? I am not sure. but they looked solid i should be good for life with them right? haha I mean they cost me 80+$ so I hope they are good? please sugest alternate metal ones. I am not buying plastic ones. |
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| | #7 |
| Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Johns Is.
Posts: 30
| just talked with ckrc...and ask about the upgraded axial shafts. I was at the hobbytown earlier today and found some traxxas' 1951's(look very similar) so I grabbed them. The guy at ckrc told me those are the upgraded shafts...I just need to grab the yokes to match(part #4628X) I called hobbytown back, they are out of the harden yokes, but have the plastic ones of the same number. So I guess I will go by there again to grab those yokes, so I can be on the rocks again today!!! |
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| | #8 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: pleasanton
Posts: 284
| correct in theory, bad in reality. the driveshaft is a moving part, you usually try and make the moving parts weigh less added weight on moving parts equals added stress on every other part it is connected to. run down the street. then run down the street with 5 pounds of weight around your ankles. notice the pain in your ankle, knees, and feet. same thing on a driveshaft. you want maximum strength with the least weight. you never want to add rotational mass. rotational mass just makes it harder to start and harder to stop. |
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| | #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: U S A
Posts: 403
| I run the 1951's on the stock axial yokes/u-joint, no problems to date |
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| | #10 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 509
| I'm running the 1951 too with no problem. |
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| | #11 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,941
| Quote:
I've watched a 10t HH Cobalt motor, strip lockers, break axle shafts and snap a tranny output. The Maxx shafts are still unharmed. | |
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| | #12 |
| Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Johns Is.
Posts: 30
| Thanks guys, I went with the traxxas 1951's...they were direct drop in. They are just a touch shorter, but they worked with the axial metal yokes. I put it on the rocks and gave her hell...still held up |
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