AX10 tuber-1st attempt
 

Well, after completing my Demon's Rock chassis, I decided to embark on tuber which I've always wanted to do. I am fortunate to find a local vendor who sells steel tubing and also another one selling brazing materials. I settled with 35% silver and a 6mm steel tubing.

My Bernzomatic MAPP torch that SKeeno help me to buy a 1 1/2 year ago is not found it's purpose.

The chassis is not complete yet. This photo is the result of 5 hours of work (not including drawing which is done on the weekend).

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/DSCN4412.jpg

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...r/DSCN4413.jpg

Looks good. It does look like you're overheating your joints though (the burnt flux and not quite nicely flowing braze are giveaways). Easily cleaned up, but you don't have to apply as much heat in the future. If you're using Harris flux, just wait until the flux goes clear, then apply the braze. It takes a bit of practice.

You definitely need more bracing in there. Hopefully that's still part of what you'll be doing. Good start though!

Thanks... I have never done brazing before.. this is my first time... Yupp it needs practice...

SO, as soon as the flux goes clear, the i apply the silver???

How do you see it's over heated??

As I said, it's not a huge issue, just means more sanding/clean-up at the end. Yes, I generally apply the braze as soon as it goes clear. Actually, I've done enough joints that I know when it's going to go clear, so I apply it about a second before hand. Wait too long, and it gets red hot and starts burning the flux. It really is one of those things that just take practice.

You can tell it's overheated by the black scorching at the joints and the slightly rough look to the braze. A "well" brazed joint will have white flux residue and the braze will have a very smooth, almost shiny look to it. Having said that, I often have burnt flux in areas where I've joined in several pieces. Again, its still a strong joint, and cleans up in the end easily enough. As long as you're priming/painting the frame, nobody will know!

Update of my AX10 tuber... painted a 1st layer of paint.

when i do ill post pics of my tuber looks kinda like that and it was ,my first time brazing =]
looks sick =] yea i still have to do my shock mounts and stuff and i have the same torch as you i burned thro a piece of 1/4 steel they get pretty hot huh?

another update...

Painted and mounted the axle & tranny.
The center skid plate is made of delrin. Linkage is a double triangulation.
The shock is in droop configuration. The shock upper and lower cap is taken from PTI Goliath.

I have 80T motor and will use MAMBA MAX esc with HITEC 6955TG servo.
Radio will use my old M8 with Spektrum SPM1012 module. The M8 is what I used when I was racing in electric touring... old stories..

Here is the pics..

Very nice looking rig

Very nice, it looks very clean and stealthy. I can guess you took your time when building, and also are those the M2's or M3's.(tire compound)

this is a newbie ? why no springs

very nice build - looks good and clean "thumbsup"

First attempt at brazing? Damn it looks super nice! I love the black look, you did what I started doing on my tuber, and I dig the chrome look on the links and stuff.

yepp... my first attemp in brazing a tuber chassis... so far so good... but I learn as I braze more points... Thanks for the advice ecoli..

I still need to cut some sheets for the body panel... and mount the electronics...

Hey, no problem, that's what the boards are for. Looks great, what did I tell you, a little paint covers all :lol:

Like The Looks Of It . Turned Out Good Man . How Does It Handle? Or Have You Not Tested It Yet?

It's not tested yet.. I haven't got the time to install electronics. also, the body panel need to be done too...

A little update
 

After trying some materials for the body panel, I went for some plastic sheet. It is flexible and easy to work with....

here's some pics without electronics. Still waiting for a 10A voltage regulator to power up the servo. The Hitec HS 5955TG is capable for 24kg/cm and so the current at stall on 6.0V is around 4.2A. The MAMBA Mac has a BEC only for 3A... this will smoke your esc to useless matchbox. The 10A BEC is from Castle Creations. It is designed to gives 10A max with a wide range input voltage. Bonus is, the BEC voltage is adjustable. The max input voltage is 24V..amazing!

I have just burned a hole in my wallet for some goodies fo my crawler...

1. Punisher Shaft - RC4WD
2. Alluminium C Hub - RC4WD
3. Alluminium Knuckle - RC4WD
4. HPI MT2 Heavy Duty Gear - LiquidRC
5. CC BEC - BPP
6. Alluminium rear lockout - CKRC

I hope it will be here soon...
"thumbsup"

Man that thing turned out to look great! I am how ever jealous of the punisher shaft thats going on the rig as that is what I want for mine, just don't have the fund's for them at this time.

Are you planning on changing out the green on the rims? I dig the blue on the body panels but the green doesn't really fit. Great looking truck over all man.

Yepp.. you are right man... that green is definately out... I am going to cut my own rock rings....:lol: