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Thread: Standard issue: Black/Green Bug Ax-10

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Old 04-25-2008, 08:58 PM   #1
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Default Standard issue: Black/Green Bug Ax-10

Well after 2 years with no RC's, I decided to get back into the sport... So it seemed pretty obvious to buy a AX-10.

Got it all together and even ran 2 battery packs through it. Drives pretty nice but there is still too much torque twist for me.









Axial AX-10 Kit
ST Racing Bent Lower Links, STA30445G (same as Axial's)
(3) Super Soft Axial Springs (red)
(1) Hard Axial Spring (blue) {Left Rear}
Rubber Shocks dampers installed inside the shocks
Rear steer lockouts infront of axle.
Removed Axial battery tray
Homemade Saddle Battery mounts.
Spaced Y links (front and rear)
55T 'Integy' Lathe motor
87/16 gearing
8 cell, 1450 Mah 'Elite' CheapBatteryPacks.com
Deans connectors
CastleCreations Mamba Max
Traxxas TQ3 trasmitter and reciever
Hitech HS645-MG with Aluminum Arm
Cut foams with 4.5 oz in each front tire
HPI Baja Bug body
12 5/8" WB, 2 7/8" Belly










Last edited by 4RnrRick; 04-25-2008 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:51 PM   #2
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Well holy shit buddy! Looky who's back!

Nice!
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:54 PM   #3
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- yeap its been a while, hasn't it....

Last edited by 4RnrRick; 04-25-2008 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:56 PM   #4
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Will it become a tukisuzuki?
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Old 04-26-2008, 01:55 AM   #5
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I was wondering if you would ever get back into the little toys.
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:00 PM   #6
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The torque twist was bugging me so I started really researching what others do to try to fix it without major mods... Found some interesting stuff to try but I decided to try to put the suspension into the 1:1 link spreadsheets I'm use-to using 1:1 rigs I've built to help me understand whats going on.

This is what I found for the setup I was running which is very simliar to stock with the rubber bumpers mounting inside the shocks to lower the stance and lengthed y-links:



As you can see the links are near parrallel and actually show the instant center behind the vehicle.

Then after messing with the numbers my goal was to add more seperation at the rear axle and reduce it some on the frame. and in teh process I would lengthed the upper links and get rigd of the y-link. This is what I ended up with.



I'd like to try lowering the AS another 15% or so. and I wish the roll axis was closer to zero, but this will have to do for now. Also in doing this I outboarded the shocks and moved the links to the inside of the frame plates. And I swapped out the left rear spring back to a super soft axial red and added one fat coil spacer.

This is what it looks like now.





And here is a little tire test I did on my 39.5 Irok to simulate a steep climb. There is NO way I could have done that before! It would have totally torque twisted right off it.

Click for short video


Then I took it out for some real testing.

Click for short video


Its defintely an improvement over what I had! Now my next big issue is probably tires and foams... I think I cut my foams up too much and it feels a little nose heavy so I might remove some weight out of the front tires. I'm also trying to decided if I want DIG or Rear Steer....
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:10 AM   #7
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I took it to a ORCRC comp this weekend and got 11th out of 47....
Not bad for a basically stock Axial, no front dig and very little practice.

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Old 04-29-2008, 11:47 AM   #8
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Very good!!!

Could you please, take some pics from chassis frame without body in order to see where are new upper links holes are located??

THANK YOU
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:58 AM   #9
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Thanks for sharing. Did you keep all link locations and setups stock in the front?
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:58 PM   #10
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Here is the current link configuration pics....







Stock rear lowers moved to the rear uppers with two new holes drill in the chassis and two holes drilled into the rear servo mount to convert it to a 4-link. as you can see this gives more seperation at the axle and less seperation at the chassis so the convergence point (instant center) is now really close to 100% AntiSquat for a nice neutral stance.
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:05 AM   #11
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Welcome back Rick!!
Glad to see you bring some nice tech with you too.
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:09 AM   #12
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Welcome back

You must be visiting over here while pirate is down
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:24 AM   #13
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Great job, very informative
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:28 AM   #14
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talk about long time no see! I don't even know if you remember me but I remember you for "the wife". I remember that comp on elk rock. I think you were like the first to try 9.6v on a 2.2? I remember in the build up to that comp you were flaunting that vid of it doing back flips in the lawn hahaha. oh good times. by the way, awesome work with the stock ax setup where do you get that suspension program? I know I have seen it before

EDIT: I was looking through your old builds and they sure brought back the memories from the good 'ol days!

Last edited by RCMFMaxxMan; 04-30-2008 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:05 AM   #15
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i like the bug body alot on your rig
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:22 AM   #16
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Thanks for sharing and pics!!

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Old 04-30-2008, 09:09 AM   #17
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do you have a link to pictures of your 1:1 rig?
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan View Post
talk about long time no see! I don't even know if you remember me but I remember you for "the wife". I remember that comp on elk rock. I think you were like the first to try 9.6v on a 2.2?
I know I was one of the first with the 8 cell packs... now its still seem slows too me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan View Post
I remember in the build up to that comp you were flaunting that vid of it doing back flips in the lawn hahaha.
Yeap that was me... now you just throw a bug body on and drive up a wall and keep in the throttle....







Quote:
where do you get that suspension program? I know I have seen it before
I've gotten several requests for it, so here its is:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=204893

Link to the 3-link + Panhard Bar calculator.
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...kV1.0bBETA.zip

Link to the 4-link calculator.
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...arLinkV3.0.zip

You have to tweak the axis on the graph to RC scale.

Last edited by 4RnrRick; 05-22-2008 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004 View Post
do you have a link to pictures of your 1:1 rig?
Tuki - Toyota drivetrain, Samurai body
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=37942.0

Suzuki Samurai Soft Top Tub
Toyota Taco 2.7L 3RZ motor (150 hp)
R150F Toyota V6 tranny
Dual 23 spline Transfer cases (2.28 X 4.70)
3-link + panhard front
Double triangulated 4-link rear
2" remote reservior coilovers
Toyota 8" axles (chromo axles, Detroits, 5.29 gears)
39.5" Irok's on 15x10 rims
108" WB with ~20" belly (at ride hieght)


(still under construction)
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Old 05-01-2008, 12:48 AM   #20
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I bet my '90 accord could crawl better than that thing! haha jk it looks really great. Is that your old 4runner in there or a completely new rig?

EDIT: one more thing: you mentioned how you still think 8 cells is too slow. Alot of people swear by the holmes hobbies' cobalt puller for low speed control and good wheel speed. also you can throw on an extra volt and a half with a lipo 3s... but you probably already know all this

Last edited by RCMFMaxxMan; 05-01-2008 at 02:27 AM.
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