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Thread: Lotsa Custom Work

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Old 05-28-2008, 10:54 PM   #1
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Default Lotsa Custom Work

I picked up an Axial kit about two months ago. It was taking me forever to build it because I knew there were lots of things I wanted to do differently than stock. I finally just went ahead and built it pretty much stock and then began modifying. I ended up changing quite a few things around.

I didn’t take any pics along the way, but here’s where it sits today:








I pretty much started the new construction with the skid plate and chassis.
The first chassis prototypes were built from some cheap and super-easy to work with wood. I was surprised to find that it would actually stand up to some pretty serious abuse allowing some good testing. Proto 1 is the top left, bottom right is the last one.


The skid plate is 3/8” Delrin and the chassis is 1/8” Garolite. I wasn’t sure where the shocks would need to be exactly, and in testing all extremes seemed to have some merit, so they all stayed. Didn’t cost anything to keep them other than another couple of minutes at the drill press.




I bent all the links from 5/16” Delrin by heating in the oven and dropping them into a mold cut into some 1x lumber. The rear upper links took some creativity to make sure everything would clear nicely.



Last edited by jakepkoe; 05-29-2008 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:55 PM   #2
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I wanted to get the servo and the battery as low as possible so I fashioned a mount out of a strip of aluminum. I will have to do it again differently though as this one is beginning to split where itís folded back onto itself.


I wanted the steering linkage to be behind the axle. I fought it and fought it until I finally came up with something that would work. The way my front upper links attach to the axle leaves very little room for the steering tie rod. I just started playing with it until I had something that would fit. This rod I bent by heating with a mini-torch. Iím not so good at it, as you can see it caught fire in the middle and looks nasty. Still works thoughÖ




I had to mount the tie rod to the inner hole and cut the outer hole off of the knuckle. A counter sink bit and a flat head screw allow just as much steering as it had when it was in front of the axle



It seems to be working really well, but Iíve yet to have a chance to compete with it. Hopefully this weekend or next. Still have a liíl work left to do, but so far itís met my expectations. Iíll try to get some action pics to add soon.
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:56 AM   #3
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your thread got me sold on delrin rods. now I have ideas that help my rods clear the shocks when I move them to a different angle.
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:37 AM   #4
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Builds like these inspire me to do my own fabrications too. Wish I had all the tools to make everything from the bottom up.
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:03 AM   #5
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I really need to do a BTA like yours. I had no idea you had so many prototypes. Looks great, hope you can make it out this Sunday. I also see you went over to the darkside, you know what I'm talking about , how's it working for you?
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakepkoe View Post
I like your skid plate design. Those extensions would really help eliminate hang ups that are normally associated with a double triangulation skid plate. You should sell that!
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:55 AM   #7
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Wow now that's a bunch of different ideas being developed. Looks very interesting and the chassis shows lots of use, any comments about how it's working for you on the rocks?
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:59 AM   #8
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Nice Work

I see you countersunk the shock/link support up front for steering knuckle clearance, do you feel it is strong enough with that mod? I ground down a cap screw when I did my BTA, but your setup offers a bit more clearence, very nice.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:26 AM   #9
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Wow, thats sweet! Very nice work!

Matt
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:29 AM   #10
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Da Hermit: Thanks. The rod is pretty easy to work with, although it seems best to actually tap the threads. I tried just drilling a hole and cramming a screw in there like you'd do with normal plastic but didn't get very far. I used a toaster oven to heat the rod, 15-20 minutes at 300ļF seems to soften it up enough without melting. 325ļ started to make them a li'l runny.

freddybee: You don't 'need' a lot of special tools. I used mainly a scroll saw and a drill press, both cheap small ones.

Whoodie: The first prototype didn't make it far, the next two never saw any actual use, the fourth was pretty sweet though! The dark side is painful but seems to be effective ;) I'm trying to get out of some commitments so I can make it to Belton this weekend.

Philistine: Thanks! The extended skid plate seems to be working pretty well as intended. It's got lots of scratches and I can't say I've hung up on it yet.

Stormin2u: Thanks. I've done a few different things, mostly because I'm too cheap to buy off the shelf! It works pretty good, still need to dial in the shock position and oil before I'm satisfied.

Houndog: I don't think I've compromised the strength of the shock mount too much with the countersunk screw, but only time will tell.

BagoXCAlum: Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:56 PM   #11
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Jake looks good. For your BTA you can use the STRC alum knuckle and remove the outer hole giving you the clearance and the durability. One of our locals did the same as you with plastic and had some breakage issues.

On my GC-1 I sucked it up and broke out the dremel to remove the hole with no issues.
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:06 PM   #12
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Nice fab. work. Buy the looks of your skid and lower links, it doesn't look like you did much testing. ;) Just joking, and that COG is impresive
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:43 PM   #13
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great rig. with the addiction nothing stays stock long
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:34 PM   #14
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Awesome job..You have been very busy
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:06 AM   #15
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you just gave me some new ideas man
keep us updated
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:25 AM   #16
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that is a damn nice build!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:43 PM   #17
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Thanks for the compliments guys.

I hadn't had that dig unit very long when I posted the previous pictures. After some testing I decided the shift linkage needed some re-thinking. It wouldn't release from dig when bound up without backing up a hair to take the load off. I was not only worried about the servo, but why not just take a reverse penalty if you're going to have to back up anyway? So, I wanted the push/pull to be as close to the centerline of the actual moving parts as possible to try and make it work more freely. With the relocated servo and linkage it works MUCH better. On the rocks I haven't had any shifting problems since the change and it'll even release from dig on the carpet at home - which is something it wouldn't even come close to doing before.

The wiring is still a li'l spaghetti-like... The servo ended up getting hurt in the original location and it only pulls strong in one direction. When I mount the replacement I'll clean everything up. I keep forgetting the camera when testing. I'll try to get some action shots soon.







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Old 06-05-2008, 01:53 AM   #18
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I envy your passion.
I lost my passion when I blew my 225 srevo within 15 min. after initial instalation.
My BEC is set at 6v. I did not realize that the 225 is only 4.8v.
What a loser, I will have to go to my next comp. without a dig due to the blown servo that was on order for two weeks.

Anyways, i like the new local. of your servo and the simple yet effective linkage set-up. Ideas, Ideas, Ideas. Thank You.
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