AX10 general stuff and some VF too boot.

[O.C.D.]

Been searching a while and can't find anything about the stock bottom aluminum links on the kit. I want to cut a couple up and was wondering if anyone knows if they are threaded all the way through. I have used lights, feeling in them with a longer allen, etc... I just can't seem to tell. I had to ask because if I cut these I have no backups to return to stock.

I guess I can ask another related question to the HC links as well. I was reading the rules for the 2.2 comp class and you have to be at 12.5" from axle to axle at the hub, right. From time to time I see that people say that the links push the legal length to far out. I put mine on and they are indeed longer. I am almost at 13" with these links. Like the question above, can I cut these and still have threads?

I have spent the last 8 days making my comper ready for the maiden voyage and I am trying a few things. I wanted to show you all but need to make sure of these facts first.

I have also realized that my VF Dig is impossible to get smooth. I even broke it in with a stationary servo in a jig. When the servo was in a direct line it worked. Now that it is mounted it is very hard to shift. Anyone have any clues? I have taken it apart 6 times and sanded and re-lubed. Edit: I am using standard white lithium grease. Could that be the reason it is so hard to shift?

I got my DX3R today and am scared to burn the 225 up before I can even get it too work. Too many things to think about.


Damn, I think I need to rename this thread now.... lol

[Nabil]

the links are threaded about an inch. not all the way through.

no advice about the dig. mine is as smooth as can be

[jason]

Like he said the links are only threaded in about an inch, however they are drilled all the way and you can run a 3mm tap through them and be in business.

[billet works]

Doc, shoot me an email so I can get you fixed up on your dig.

Don

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

i cut my links just a lil on each end front and rear
to end up at 12.5.

[tbizzle]

Originally Posted by jason

Like he said the links are only threaded in about an inch, however they are drilled all the way and you can run a 3mm tap through them and be in business.

I bought my 3mm drill&tap for about seven fiddy from my LHS

[O.C.D.]

Thank you all for the replies.

Don, email sent.

I think for now I am going to keep her stock (the chassis plates and tranny are stock at least, lol) until I get a Bender SWX or GC2. Everything so far is not working out on my build, but hey, isn't that the fun part?!?

[O.C.D.]

Don, sent a couple emails last week and still no reply. I really would appreciate your help.

[MCSCOTT]

As far as the dig it's taken me forever to get it to work right, but the main thing I can say is make absolutely sure everything is perfect on it. Check, double check, and triple check your driveshaft length to make sure it's short enough because running the semi droop setup in mine I had to cut more than 1/2" out of the male side. Also take a file and file the grooves out in it, file the ends down some, and do the same for the female side. I even oiled mine a little to make sure it was sliding absolutely smooth because that has been alot of my problem from the start. I had the dig working great a week ago, and then it stopped working right. After I thought about it a while I realized I had broken a link, and the driveshaft came apart, and when I put it back together was when the dig stopped working. Since you can basically slide the two halves together 2 ways, I must have had it turned a way that wasn't letting the driveshaft slide good enough. Also the grease was an issue in mine as far as some other shifting issues. I cleaned all the grease out of it and went back with just a very very light coat of grease. Not having enough in there might cause me issues later on, but I know with what I have in there right now it's smooth as butter no matter what speed. Also start out with your end points really low when you go to set them on your DX3R, and that should help save the servo. I will say that if you have the 225, if you plug the battery up and don't have it right, don't leave that thing humming for more than a minute. After I burned up the first one in about 2 minutes I put my second one on, shifted into 4wd from freewheel, adjusted the end point, and then shifted to dig to set that one and the servo was already smoked. Less than 1 minute and it was gone, and I need more time when I'm trying to set something up, so I made a bracket and went with a 645 servo.

Hope some of that helps.

[xarca]

with the dx3r set your epa to about 30% and then increse the numbers! mine are at 40%. I did not burn mine up doing it this way.

[airborn]

Originally Posted by Doc J33P

was wondering if anyone knows if they are threaded all the way through.


I got my DX3R today and am scared to burn the 225 up before I can even get it too work. Too many things to think about.

The link arms are not threaded all the way through. You will need a 3mm tap.

Do not use a mini servo. for the pro or any one that has a special nack for servos maybe the 225 works, but it is beyond me why VF has this as the go to servo? JR 590 servo works great metal gears 85oz tq works real good.
hope this helps

[O.C.D.]

Well, I am about done with this dig already!!! I know Don has stuff going down with the fam and whatnot, but no response is lame. So is the fact that the dig is not working properly still. Fried my 225 after I set it properly and after re-checking the dig 200 times. So I have to source another 225 which I won't, or buy a better servo. Now I am out of commission for the last comp because I was already short a charger. This forces me to redo everything and guess what?! Now my rear driveshaft is too short! More money and time wasted. Good times all around. Maybe in 2011 I will have a rig that is fully ready to go.

[billet works]

Well, I tried responding but the message along with a few others got caught up in my internal server and never made it out. Send me your dig and let me fix it for you. Send attached to your trans if you want it butter.

Sorry for the trouble you are experiencing, I take some things for granted as me and my crawling buddies have yet to fry a single servo.

I'll pm you my address.

[Grizzly4x4]

Sorry to hear that Doc, I was hoping you'd make it. Sorry to hear the dig still isn't working.

[O.C.D.]

Originally Posted by Grizzly4x4

Sorry to hear that Doc, I was hoping you'd make it. Sorry to hear the dig still isn't working.

Believe me, I am more sorry! I have been waiting months to get this thing working and I should have never changed it from stock. I always do that when I get into something. I was telling THnCS that this may be for the better as I will have time to test it at PP and learn more than taking it to a comp and possibly not being ready.

When the Summer Series starts I will be ready to get it dirty!

Live and learn I guess. Just wish I could have had her ready. :-( lol

[MCSCOTT]

Man I hate to hear you still can't get it working as well, because once you get it working the way it's suppose to it's an excellent dig unit. I know on mine, the linkage had to be perfectly straight in line with the dig, mounted on the back side of the servo horn. I ate those two 225's before I switched to a 645, and it was a very simple swap as far as making a bracket, and really gave me alot more time to tinker with it not having to worry about the servo burning up. It's taken me a month to get it right, but now it shifts perfectly, at any speed, pretty much instantly when I hit the switch. Never know, it might go out on me tomorrow, but as far as I know I really beat the crap out of this thing this past weekend and it still works perfectly.

Checking, double checking, adjusting, and readjusting...........it's a frustrating task, but worth it once you get it working right. Best advice I would give is to make you a servo mount using your stock ax10 servo mount, and put a 645 on it.