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Old 06-14-2008, 05:35 AM   #1
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Default I need some experienced feedback.

Hi guys and gals. I just recently bought my first crawler. I have had it about 2 days now, but it's the RTR version of the AX10. I know some people are against the RTR kit, but I wanted something that I could drive and upgrade without having to wait for days/weeks for parts. Im not completely new to RC, I am completely new to the electric and crawling aspect of RC cars. I have always had Nitro. The only thing I have found that I do not like is the nylon plastic front steering bar and upper and lower arms. They just seem too flimsy to me and this I will deffinately working on in the near future.

I found a cage that I liked, and it is a Edge chassis with a rollcage made onto it. I'm about 70% sure that this is the one I will go with, unless some of you can give me a link and good references to some other chassis.

I am still open for motor and esc options, but Im thinking of going with the traditional 55T/Rooster combo. Alot of people seem to like it, and for the price it's rock solid. If you have any suggestions can you explain and link please?

It will be 2.2, this much i know for sure. Bigger is better when it comes to tires. Im a southern guy, it's just the way we do it in the south.

Im also looking for links and referneces to a good suspension setup about shocks etc.. There are so many options here, I know.

Tire- I will experiment with the different tires on my own and find whaqt works best for my type of crawling and area. I have heard that the rock claws are pretty good all around tires. Any feedback?

Just out of curiosity, has anyone manage to mount a tank tread system to one of these yet? I like they way they look on RC's, always have.

I'd like to keep withing he RC rules for the 2.2 class if possible, In the long run i may go to an open class and just add the biggest motor and tires I can, just because.. that's how we do it here.

My biggest concern at the moment is my battery pack. I have server 2000+ battery packs, but they make the CoG so crappy. I have been reading the forum and trying to decide on which battery pack I should go with. I know It will be on the front axle for sure. What size should I get? Will this be fine with the Rooster ESC/557 combo AND possibly a headlight kit? What type of runtime can I get out of said battery set-up?

Can I run a 40 series Rock Claw tire on one of these w/o damaging the gears/electronics? Just out of curiosity.

Can anyone list any good website for aftermarket parts? I have found a couple, just wanted to know what sites you guys liked to shop at. Most of teh sites I go to they are out of stock on everything I want to order. Thank god i did the the RTR kit and have something to do until parts come in.

Anyways, i appreciate your experienced feedback.

-Cooper

Last edited by Cooper; 06-14-2008 at 06:17 AM. Reason: No coffee
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Old 06-14-2008, 06:41 AM   #2
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with the edge chassis you will want to run an internal shock set up....
as far as links you can get them in a rainbow of colors and use the 30 degree lowers....
battery packs you have a few choices....2/3a cell or lipos....
remember lipo packs require a specific charger. I use a 1000mah 2 cell lipo pack with my set-up (rooster 55t) and i get over an hour of crawl time. You state you want to go big....a bl system will be the best and you can use even bigger lipo packs 3 cell possibly 4.....(more voltage)
Personally with the money you will be spending you may want to do 2 crawlers....a 2.2 and an unlimited...in the end you will have the parts to build both....
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Old 06-14-2008, 06:53 AM   #3
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What is a BL system?
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Old 06-14-2008, 07:04 AM   #4
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heres a link or two to give ya some ideas
Edge Chassis Pics!
2nd edge build chrome

and the tank treads i havent heard or seen em on here at least.


i run a 1250mah lipo2s and a55t holmes hobbies hand wound mtr
w/rooster crawler(make sure you get a new one,without the glitch).
i get @45min to 1hr of run time. i have 2 edge chassis and love em!
just put a dig on one,and i the other is soon to follow.
your pocketbook are your only limitations!

and bl is brushless motor. see holmes hobbies
have fun!!
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:10 AM   #5
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Cooper,
Do yourself a favor and buy a star. $20 for the year, and you gain access to the for sale site here on RCC.
Set up a paypal account and go shopping.
Alot of the guys that post threads here sell here and can give you loads of info on the items they are selling.
FYI

Have fun!

JC
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:59 AM   #6
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You're kind of bouncing around with what you want to accomplish with your truck. At first you say, " It will be 2.2, this much i know for sure." Then later on in your post you're asking about 40 series tires. It can't be both. Are you wanting to compete with your crawler at some point? Are you just wanting a backyard basher? It helps others help you if you have some sort of plan.

I've owned the Rooster Crawler/Novak 55 combo, and it's glitchy. You'll find that a lot of people experienced that problem who have owned the Rooster Crawler. Take a look at the Tekin FX-R for a more reliable setup.

Losi Rock Crawler shocks are a good upgrade for your suspension. I run them, and so do many, many others here. You'll find lots of info using the forum's search button, including 3 and 4 link suspension setups for your Scorpion.

The main thing to remember is...this isn't nitro. I'm a former nitro man and racer myself, and crawling is a whole different animal. What were often considered "baseline setups" for nitro cars/trucks do not apply so much here. You have to tinker and experiment. There will always be people here to steer you in the right direction, but you just have to get a feel for things yourself and set up your crawler to your liking.

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Old 06-14-2008, 10:51 AM   #7
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If you're wanting a tube style chassis you can't go wrong with the Edge in my opinion, especially as far as something that will be easy to bolt right up to what you have. On the motor/esc if you're wanting to run a 55t definately look into this combo.

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Tekin-Cra...2-p-16933.html

You'll also find lots of other good things at TCS, such as split 2/3a cell battery packs and plates for them as well to go right on the front axle. I would stick with 2.2 size tires, and look into the Panther Cougars or maybe the Losi Claws. With the Edge you can do fine just running the stock shocks with a semi droop setup (springs on top and bottom of the piston internally).

On a RTR though I would say the first things you will want to upgrade will be the links and the steering servo, and then go from there. Here's a pic of my Edge as of last night when I completely rebuilt it after beatin on it pretty hard. I'm running a Sidewinder esc, Holmes 7t cobalt, VF dig, and Panther Cougars, the 8cell 2/3 packs, and a Spektrum DX3R. So far I really like it for tons of power, even though it's not as much as it would be with Lipo.

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Old 06-14-2008, 01:22 PM   #8
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Thank you all so much for the advice. I know I seem to bounce around, it's just that there are truely so many possibilities that I can be overwhelming to the newbie crawler, such as my self. I have used the search function and what little I know is from all the older post that I have read so far. However, not many of these threads come in 100% clear to a newbie crawler.
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Old 06-14-2008, 03:41 PM   #9
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Hey Cooper, glad you picked up a rtr ax10. Got a sec cause this might take a min. lol

The rtr has a lot of potential, there is tons of aftermarket companies for this rig. If you bought the kit you would have upgraded it anyway. It doesnt come with a few nice features like the kit does but it does come with some upgrades that the kit DOESNT have. So good job with you purchase, welcome and get ready to get the crawler bug. The itch will come from your pocket book.

First things first. Let start from the top of your list.

- The edge Chassis is a great looking chassis. Im sure it performs great. It meets all USRCCA rules for keeping your 2.2 legal. I assume you like tube chassis so ill refer you to a few top notch places. Remember if you decide to pick up this edge chassis.

You will need this: http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Edge-hardware-kit-p-16713.html

This takes care of all your hardware and some medium spring rate springs to run internally.

Just build your shocks (or new ones if you pick up a different set) like you would any other and just throw them in. Note: Be careful of hydraulic lock. This is called a internal "sprung" setup, Regular shock set up like you got with your rtr is also called "sprung" with the spring on the outside of the shock body. The way you see them on all rtr/kits from the factory are usually this way, just more traditional. If you place your spring on the other side of the piston its called "droop". The one main reason why people run internal springs is because of clearance issues. (Tires rubbing against springs) If you run “droop” your rig will run different, so you really have to play with spring rates, shock oils, and shock position to make it perfect. A lot of people are running droop up front and sprung in the rear. I personaly do this on a few of my 2.2. Comp rigs. Droop or sprung will work with that edge chassis, I’ve seen it done and performs well - any way you do it, again all just personal preference. Its been a long debated subject. More info with your search engine.

Oh btw the Edge is considered a TVPuber, a twin plate design, with a upper tube chassis. Still legal if you keep it under USRCCA guidelines for dimensions.

Here is a few other places to look for more tube based frames.

- DMG: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83451
Note: My personal favorite. I have a few chassis from Jerry. He does a great job at what he does. A+ Customer service and he puts a lot of work into all his products.

- JPCUSTOMRC's and DEZFAN IND: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85048

- NEW ERA RACING: http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=9009

- TROST
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109267

- BLUEMONSTER
http://www.bluemonster-rc.com/

- SINISTIR
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99517

- FULL PENETRAITION FABRICATION:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106965&highlight=TUBE

-XTREME RC HOBBIES:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92981&highlight=TUBE

- BECKWORKS:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75523&highlight=TUBE
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71979&highlight=TUBE
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73387&highlight=TUBE

- RCP CRAWLERS:
http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=795&cat=26&page=1

These are just a few. Here’s a link to a good reference on a few twin plate designs incase you ever decide you want to use a body.

- Chassis: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63370

Don’t go with the rooster/55t set up IMO. There a great ESC and the motors are decent enough to get you through but if your gonna upgrade, then upgrade. Either go brushless with a out runner motor or a standard in runner, or even a goat set up. IMO I would pick up a Tekin FX-R ( you don’t need the PRO). Super small footprint, great BEC, handles 2/3 cell Lipo, winning all over the nation in comps, perfect drag brake and lots of programing. (run between 2.4 and 3, I use the 2.8 setting for DB perfect for any 2.2) Great reviews.

Heres One nice review from Kaetwo: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105316

Good info here.

Motor wise: no questions asked, go with a HolmesHobbies Cobolt Puller. Either 5T, 7T, or 10T. These motors are sooo nice you will never go with another brushed/brushless motor, ever. People run brushed motors because there super smooth, with the right amount of expo tuned in it can be deadly to any surface. A lot of people run and prefer brushed systems over brushless. Brushless systems are getting more and more popular everyday. The fact you have more torque, more power, and the wheel speed to get you over obstacles you couldn’t do with a brushed set up is 2nd to none. Bad: there pricy and some say not as smooth as a perfectly tuned brushed set up. The best way to accomplish the best of both worlds is to pick up one of Jhons motors. Hard to come by mind you. Only pre-order and there about $87 shipped just for the motor. Something to consider btw would be that the motor can is about ½” longer, but I don’t think you should have any problems with clearance in the “Edge”. Might want to double check on some of those other chassis if you decide to go there route.

Heres a link to his website: http://holmeshobbies.com/home.php
Here it is on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113821

Links: There is one main company that really does a great job with there customers. Quality products, and they can make anything for any size you want. Fast shipping and perfect feedback all the way around. Xtreme RC. David is at the top of his game. He knows what hes talking about and he will help you with any situation you need. There are a lot of other guys out there that do a good job aswell, but for someone in your situation, XRC would be your spot.

Heres his site: http://www.xtreme-rc-hobbies.net/
Here he is on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/member.php?u=6383
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Old 06-14-2008, 03:42 PM   #10
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With your link set up on a axial, I’ve changed them totally on all my ax10’s. I went a few different routes all of them. A good suggestion to START with, would be to go with a traditional 4-link set up than the standard 3-link the axial comes with. This reduces torque steer (to much of this is a bad thing). A nice place to start look beside the vendor section would be The Crawler Store. Direct fit, fast shipping, good customer service as well.

Heres for the rear:

You can go with Aluminum -
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Aluminum-Boomerang-Upper-Link-Mount-for-Axial-AX-10-Scorpion-1-each-US-Patent-Pending-p-16612.html

Or Delrin -
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Delrin-Boomerang-Upper-Link-Mount-for-Axial-AX-10-Scorpion-1-each-US-Patent-Pending-p-16523.html

For The Front:

Aluminum -
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Aluminum-Upper-Link-Servo-Mount-for-Axial-AX-10-Scorpion-1-each-US-Patent-Pending-p-16613.html

Or Delrin - http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Delrin-Upper-Link-Servo-Mount-for-Axial-AX-10-Scorpion-1-each-US-Patent-Pending-p-16526.html

These should get you started with you link help.

Tires: Ive tested a lot of tires. For MY specific area, M3 Flat Irons and Rock Claws work best for my 2.2 rigs with MY particular setup, lol thas prolly not the answer you were looking for, pick yourself up some Losi Rock Claws you wont go wrong with them. They will be great on any surface. Very narrow, great for side hilling and upkeeps. Lots of grip cause there super soft. Replace the foams and go memory or some kreepy’s. More info on different tire set up in your search engine. Lots of tire/foam/weight options out there.

I don’t know what a “Tank Tread” is sorry lol

Stick with the standard 2.2 sized tires. Don’t go 40 series lf you want something bad ass and big, build your self a super and then go hog wild. Don’t do it with a 2.2, just a waste of time and money. Do whatever you want lol but like I said not a good idea.

Stop with the Nmh, just go Lipo and call it good. Way smaller than your regular sub C cells. If you got them laying around than go for it, but IMO go with lipo and only lipo. Going to compete, go with a 3C (11.1V) More amps to your motor. Gear down with 11.1V.Going to just mess around in the yard or a park? Stick with a 2C(7.4v) Little longer run times, but you will see a difference in performance. Both range between 400-2k+ mah. You looking at a good 30-45mins of crawling with a standard 1345/3C pack. Thats IF there balanced right and also depending on you servo/motor setup.

Anyways stick with a lipo, you cant go wrong with it. Your rig will look a lot cleaner and the footprint is smaller. It will also be easier to mount on the axle like you said you wanted to do.

Headlights? Personal pref. You can do anything you want to it.

Last and not least would be the aftermarket store question.

1) Buy a star and check out the “For Sale” Section, you will find pretty much everything you need in there, some used - some new.

2) Run a search in the Vendors Section. Your already here, might as well take a sec and take a look.

3)
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/
4) http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/
5) http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/
6) http://www.rppcrawlers.com/
7) http://www.rc4wd.com/

… … Im not going to list them all cause there are hundreds of them online. Those few are nice AX10 specific sites that you should be able to find everything you need.

Good Luck with your project, and if you have anyother questions don’t be afraid to ask, were all here to help.
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Old 06-14-2008, 09:10 PM   #11
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Ok, I got sick of the plastic crappy front steering setup today and unfortunately nobody local has the metal replacements. So.. I purchased a rear steer kit and put it on the front, No more wobbly front end!

I also got a new motor today for 20 bucks at hobbytown. I got a 55T Integy. LOVE IT! My truck does not snatch the front right wheel off the ground quit as much or as often now. Next I'll be working on a 4 link kit. That should help alot.

I looked for some T-Maxx shocks but they were all out. I think i'll just look into some of the references you guys gave me and order a better set anyways.

Anyone seen the flimsy lower control arms that comes on the RTR kit? Man they are crap, and they are gone! I bout 2 sets of 118mm T-Max turnbuckles and they fit almost perfect. They are a tad longer, but once I put the bender on them and make my own 30 degree bends, they should be perfectly lined up where the old ones were. Right now my wheelbase is about 3/4 to 1" longer than stock, I actually kind of like it this way, but I did not have a ruler handy to check the overall limit. I want to keep withing the 2.2 class rules.

I also added BB's to my wheels today while at the shop. I wasnt sure how much to add, so I only put about 3 bottcaps full in each tire. I also drilled 2 small airholes on the backside of the rim and took the foam out. It's a little noisy, I dont like hearing the BB's rolling around in them, so Im going to cut the foam down about 1/2 or 3/4" of the way and see if that will silence them a bit. Any suggestions here on a better way to do it?

I can already tell a MAJOR improvment over the original setup. The crawler is coming along. and I am going to start up my own build thread. Im going to show Step by step guides for my fellow newbie, price and efficieny comparison, etc.

Im stil looking at ESC, and could really use some help and more suggestions here.

Thanks a ton guys. You all rock!

-Cooper
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Old 06-14-2008, 11:42 PM   #12
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... good luck
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Old 06-15-2008, 02:57 AM   #13
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How exactly should the whole "BB" thing go anyways? Is there a set standard rule or anything? Do I fill the entire tire up with them? I know we want weight lower as low as possible to lower our center of gravity, but how much weight are we talking? Is there a weight limit rule to the 2.2 class crawler?

Last edited by Cooper; 06-15-2008 at 03:01 AM. Reason: 5 AM !! WTH!!
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:15 AM   #14
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Use plastic BB's if your gonna go this route. The aluminum ones will end up rusting over time if you get any type of condensation build up. Usually anywhere between 3oz and 12oz Ive seen people go a whole lbs in each wheel. drive shafts all over the place. Test little by little, your rig will determine how much wt it wants. Your driving skills also play a factor. If you going down hill and your ass end starts comming up then add more wt in the rear or take some wt out the front. same the other way.

The easiest wat to do this without getting bb's all over the place would be to use a small funnel. Seat the whole tire in the rim, with a little hole exposed. Use that opening for the funnel and start pouring.
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:29 AM   #15
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Thanks mate. I was looking in the tires section and using search but didn't see a "guideline" of weight.

Last edited by Cooper; 06-15-2008 at 04:12 AM.
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