CKRC FT Dig

[Boogie]

Anybody had much experience with these yet? How do they work in comparison to the VF dig? Ease of installation and operation, smoothness, etc. Also, what driveshaft setup can be run with it. I'm wanting to switch over to MIP's, but I know with the VF dig you have to either mill it shorter or run a stock or similar shaft in the rear. Looks like you might have to do the same with CKRC FT.

[Robbob]

I run it with mine and have had good luck. Installation was easy, after some polishing and greasing the slides it works very smooth now.

If you ordered it don't forget the link piece they sell separately. You don't have to actually get theirs but if you don't have anything similar its just easier. i used an aluminum servo mount cut, drilled and tapped.

I would recommend some tougher out drives though. You have to file your rear shaft out drive down evenly to 3mm. The aluminum ones will work but definitely get abused. I used Yotachumps replacement outdrives, you can file it easily and they work great.

I still use a pede shaft cut to length in the rear. I found today but cant remember where someone has the MIP's cut to length to work with VF's so that may be an option also. All i can remember was they make the scaled CORR truck, ThunderTech maybe?

When you do install it you have to be sure not to 'over tighten' the tranny bolts. Its easy to do and can cause the tranny inside to bind feeling like it hangs up or has a flat spot.


Pleased with mine .... hope that helps.

[winkscrawler]

The dig unit can work good if you spend time in setting it up but, that goes with all digs. You will need aftermarket outdrives as the aluminum stock outdrives are too soft. The other thing to consider is that they do not supply you with a place to mount a servo. One more last thing, you need a radio that allows you to set the EPA's(End Point Adjustments).

[dpdsurf]

I have it and it works. I don't know if it's my setup issue or the FT dig quality, but when it is under strain it will not engage without reversing. For example if I am on a steep section and want to move to free wheel or dig it will just stay in 4WD until I reverse and move forward. This often takes several attempts. My dig servo is setup for a direct inline pull. I am going to make some adjustments and report back.

And like others have mentioned it tears up the aluminum outdrive. I ordered the chromoly replacements from CDW. So now what appears to be an inexpensive Dig at $40 is now up to $80.

If I had it to do over again I would just go with the RC4WD R2D. Can't beat a complete tranny and dig for $80!

I wonder if others have the engagement issues with the R2D since it is the same dig unit at the FT?

[Robbob]

yup, i get the same thing at times. i usually just tag the throttle a bit or engage/disengage it a couple of times. i attribute it to the outdrive on the dig being in a brass bushing, wearing and the pressure on the drive train at times.

havent gotten totally rid of it but adjusted quit a bit of it out.

[Boogie]

Yeah I was thinking about getting a new set of outdrives when I upgraded to a dig, but I didn't know RC4WD did the whole set.....hmmmm. I think that's the road I will take!

[Indiglo5997]

This is a perfect thread i am in the process of starting a dig setup, i got the dig but i got it hooked to a RC4WD R2 transmission. Anyone have this or done a setup like this before?

[bulzeye]

wow way to search. same thread title and everything ckrc FT dig

[Indiglo5997]

Originally Posted by bulzeye

wow way to search. same thread title and everything ckrc FT dig

O cool thanks, sorry i just saw this one and was eager to get some info

[bulzeye]

Originally Posted by Indiglo5997

O cool thanks, sorry i just saw this one and was eager to get some info

was refering to thread starter

[Boogie]

Originally Posted by bulzeye

was refering to thread starter

My bad, sorry to clutter up your board.

[Heavy Metal Doc]

I just got this setup and my 2 only concerns are:
1- the spacers for the mount --- you take out 7mm spacers that previously set the motor mount plate up tight against the collar between that and the input shaft flange......you're then suposed to install 6mm spacers to set the FT mount plate and then piggyback the motor mount ---- the issue being the FT mount it thicker than 1mm, so the motor plate does not sit tight against the collar as it did before.....maybe it does not mater??
2 - The FT mount plate is threaded at the bolt holes that also mount the motor plate - - which are also threaded holes which makes them not pull together tight like I would think the plates should......seems like the FT plate should have through holes instead of threaded ones.....

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Heavy Metal Doc

I just got this setup and my 2 only concerns are:
1- the spacers for the mount --- you take out 7mm spacers that previously set the motor mount plate up tight against the collar between that and the input shaft flange......you're then suposed to install 6mm spacers to set the FT mount plate and then piggyback the motor mount ---- the issue being the FT mount it thicker than 1mm, so the motor plate does not sit tight against the collar as it did before.....maybe it does not mater??
2 - The FT mount plate is threaded at the bolt holes that also mount the motor plate - - which are also threaded holes which makes them not pull together tight like I would think the plates should......seems like the FT plate should have through holes instead of threaded ones.....

i havent noticed any effects of Not sitting against the collar and ive had mine for some time now.

i used purple threadlock when i screwed the plates together. get the screws started into the dig plate ( but not sticking out yet ) then line your motor plate up and the screws will follow into that.

i believe if the holes went through then it could cause the alignment to be off on the output shafts.

careful not over tighten them though and squish the case though.

[Heavy Metal Doc]

Originally Posted by Robbob

..... get the screws started into the dig plate ( but not sticking out yet ) then line your motor plate up and the screws will follow into that....

I tried that, but the threads are off by just enough that it pushes the plates apart when the screws start into the motor plate.....

[dpdsurf]

Originally Posted by Heavy Metal Doc

I tried that, but the threads are off by just enough that it pushes the plates apart when the screws start into the motor plate.....

Sounds like the holes on the ft plate may be off a little. Try just screwing the plates together by themselves to see if 2 of the holes line up perfectly. Then tap of force the 3rd one. Then take apart and reassemble with the rest of the tranny, etc.

I would not worry about the tranny spacer. Mines like that too.

[dpdsurf]

Follow up.

I took the dig and tranny apart after breaking the front output. This was not caused by the dig, it was old and worn. But I did notice very quick wear occurring on the rear where it was filed down to 3mm to fit the dig. It would have been a matter of short time before the rear broke as well.

So I installed the CDW chromoly outdrives and they are awesome! It's a longer output, very tight fit and harder metal so you hear a solid click when you engage back into 4WD. No signs of wear after 5 hours of use. I think this is a must upgrade and CKRC should just package them with the dig. May cost more, but is clear even they are aware (since they are selling the CDW's) that the stock Axial aluminum outdrives are not up to the task.

Since I had the dig and tranny appart I decided to polish the outdrive and the shifter on the dig (the 2 parts that slide in the brass bushings). I used my Pinewood Derby axle polishing methods. Now the unit slides like butter and engages 99% better. It will still bind under stress on vertical sections but takes way less finagling to get it to shift.

Oh yeah, I am not using any grease for the dig unit. Per the Pinewood Derby methods I used graphite which is a dry lubricant and will not atract dirt.

Originally Posted by dpdsurf

I have it and it works. I don't know if it's my setup issue or the FT dig quality, but when it is under strain it will not engage without reversing. For example if I am on a steep section and want to move to free wheel or dig it will just stay in 4WD until I reverse and move forward. This often takes several attempts. My dig servo is setup for a direct inline pull. I am going to make some adjustments and report back.

And like others have mentioned it tears up the aluminum outdrive. I ordered the chromoly replacements from CDW. So now what appears to be an inexpensive Dig at $40 is now up to $80.

If I had it to do over again I would just go with the RC4WD R2D. Can't beat a complete tranny and dig for $80!

I wonder if others have the engagement issues with the R2D since it is the same dig unit at the FT?

[Harvo]

I ordered one of these. How do you grind the output down to 3mm? Round? Still one flat? Witha hole through? I'm just trying to picture this in my head. Thinking about ordering Sinastirs steel ones and trying to figure out what I'll need to do.

Thanks

[dpdsurf]

Originally Posted by Harvo

I ordered one of these. How do you grind the output down to 3mm? Round? Still one flat? Witha hole through? I'm just trying to picture this in my head. Thinking about ordering Sinastirs steel ones and trying to figure out what I'll need to do.

Thanks

I used a bench grinder. You grind the round side flat to the opposite side that is already flat. You also need to grind the existing flat side to make it even. I kept the piece that it needed to go into by my side and checked the fit several times before removing a little at a time. I did not use any measuring devices, just eyeballed it and it fits perfect. Once you get the round side so that it's even with the flat side, you just alternate back and forth a little at a time until it fits snug in the dig outdrive. I finished it off with a fine hand file to get rid of a couple burs and get the fit snug, but not too snug where it could bind up easier during opperation.

Doing this with a hand file could take a while but it would work and be more difficult to remove too much material.

See there installation instructions. Thay could be better but they're good enough. http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=1020

[Robbob]

hand file didn't take that long at all and i did it to the CDW replacement outdrives too. probably overall 15 minutes total to do each side evenly.

hand file your more in control i think .....

[Trugg]

Definently use a hand file on the output shaft, a good file will remove the material (even chromoly) in less than a minute... It does a much more professional looking job and makes for a stronger output.