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Thread: Ghetto Comp Rig Rebuild #1

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Old 12-04-2008, 05:59 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by bigflex View Post
Looks like he just took the stock mount and pushed it forward so the rear holes monted on the front brace. Then he just let it rest on the servo.
Exactly... and if you look at the pic with the black and green body on, you'll see I actually mounted the battery under the plate and strapped it on that way. For a stick battery on the stock chassis, I think that is about as low as you can get it. At least that as low as I could figure out how to get it. It worked pretty well too.

You'll want to velcro the bottom of the battery to the servo, because sometimes when you roll over, the plate can move up throwing the balance off. If it's velcro'ed ... your good.
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
Exactly... and if you look at the pic with the black and green body on, you'll see I actually mounted the battery under the plate and strapped it on that way. For a stick battery on the stock chassis, I think that is about as low as you can get it. At least that as low as I could figure out how to get it. It worked pretty well too.

You'll want to velcro the bottom of the battery to the servo, because sometimes when you roll over, the plate can move up throwing the balance off. If it's velcro'ed ... your good.
Awesome. Thanks. Will do that tonight.

...With the stick under the tray, where'd you put the receiver/ESC?
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:53 PM   #23
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Awesome. Thanks. Will do that tonight.

...With the stick under the tray, where'd you put the receiver/ESC?
I tie wrapped the spare servo mount that comes with the kit (you can cut any piece of plastic to work) to the rear upper tri link. I stuck the ESC to that plate.

Then I cut a piece of plastic from some trash into a reciever sized piece and drilled a hole in it for a screw. I screwed it into the hole that the back of the battery mount previously screwed into.

That keeps it clean and all out of the way.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
I tie wrapped the spare servo mount that comes with the kit (you can cut any piece of plastic to work) to the rear upper tri link. I stuck the ESC to that plate.

Then I cut a piece of plastic from some trash into a receiver sized piece and drilled a hole in it for a screw. I screwed it into the hole that the back of the battery mount previously screwed into.

That keeps it clean and all out of the way.
Cool, man. I guess you didn't have those stiffening bars between the shock mounts, eh? Just tried muckin' around with fitting it all the 'battery-on-top' way, but that makes so much more sense.

Mine was an RTR, but I'm sure I can find some scrap plastic to build some trays.

Thanks!
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Old 12-05-2008, 06:28 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Coldnorth View Post
Cool, man. I guess you didn't have those stiffening bars between the shock mounts, eh? Just tried muckin' around with fitting it all the 'battery-on-top' way, but that makes so much more sense.

Mine was an RTR, but I'm sure I can find some scrap plastic to build some trays.

Thanks!
The green cross bars were still there. So was the plastic mounting bar. That is what I screwed into. What I can't remember is if they were the green spacers that were supposed to go there or if I used the upper links as the spacers and the spacers for the upper links. They are different lengths, but interchangable and can be used in different ways to get the setup you want. If your upper links come up too short that way, you can use a longer screw at the axle and put a spacer at the end of your Y to get the top link length adjusted to whatever makes you happy.

Last edited by Harvo; 12-05-2008 at 06:31 AM.
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Old 12-08-2008, 09:28 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
The green cross bars were still there. So was the plastic mounting bar. That is what I screwed into. What I can't remember is if they were the green spacers that were supposed to go there or if I used the upper links as the spacers and the spacers for the upper links. They are different lengths, but interchangable and can be used in different ways to get the setup you want. If your upper links come up too short that way, you can use a longer screw at the axle and put a spacer at the end of your Y to get the top link length adjusted to whatever makes you happy.
Cool cool. I've got her sitting battery-on-top right now, and I used two li'l 'separator slots' from my parts box/tacklebox to build a rear link plate and the receiver tray - seems to work well. Just need to get a servo extension for the steering servo, but in forward-reverse-only mode, it seems to work well. Hehe.

Thanks a ton!
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:49 PM   #27
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It's been a while since I updated this and I have changed a couple of things.

First... the HB tires are great. I am not regretting that purchase at all.

I wanted lipo batteries, so I took the plunge with a new charger (Onyx 230), a Poly Quest Balancer, and a couple of lipos. I got one 2200 mah and one 1300 mah... both in the 2S 25C variety. The Rooster is what is keeping me from doing 3S batteries right now.

To run the lipos, I made a plate for the rear axle, but I could never get it to work for glitching. So I got a template off this site and made my own 4-link / lipo / servo mount.



Moving the servo was a breeze, but I had to make a new steering rod. I used black mastic tape on the mount to make the battery friction stick better. There is no glitching with this setup and I get full movement of the suspension.

Since I didn't need the CKRC servo/4link mount up front anymore, I moved it to the rear. It may have freed up a degree or two of flex.



Finally, I bent some links for the rear. I had previously been running straight links. It was tricky bending 4mm all thread sleeved with aluminum without breaking it. It took 4 tries to get two links, but I'm happy with the results.

The Black Widow Chassis continues to please. I posted another 4th Place finish out of 25 or 26 in the last local Comp..
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:48 PM   #28
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Hey Harvo , great thread , love the evolution of your ride. I agree the E.T.R.C. guys are a great group aren't they. I showed up at that Ocoee comp just to watch and Raptorman told me to charge up my rig and they would fill out a scoresheet for me , that was awesome and I am now hooked for life ( as are we all ) . The comp at Raptorland was a blast too. Your rig has evolved like many others and this thread reminds us of that , too cool , btw , hope to see you this coming up weekend at the Ocoee again.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:31 PM   #29
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It's been 5 months since my last update on here. A couple of months ago I built a Rockshow Berg. I have been competing with it and doing pretty well.

Funny thing is... now that I have a Berg, I am having a whole lot of fun with the AX10

I have it dialed in even more now than when I was competing with it. Some recent changes include...

Some losi yellow springs for the rear.
A MG645 servo to steer it since the berg got the good Servo.
Dropped about half the weight in the rear tires and a third in the front.
Added driveshaft yokes for front shock mounts (pics soon).

And the biggest improvement was getting a 2nd reciever for the DX3R and putting it in this truck!

Its doing so well I have considered trying it again at a comp soon. Even though the Berg seems to do everything a little more effortlessly, this rig is still a keeper.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:41 PM   #30
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Being limited by the Rooster Crawler, I needed to find a way to get more wheel speed that didn't involve a 3s lipo.

The 35 turn HH motor is great, but there are times when a little more oomph is called for. So I threw on a 17 tooth pinion and now it runs about the same speed as my Berg with 3S and 45T motors.

I was running comparisons between this rig and the Berg today at a local indoor course and the Axial was outdoing the Berg in several regards.
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:59 PM   #31
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I'm liking my BW chassis a lot.

I have Rovers and was wondering which direction was the better one? I have mine mounted with the protrusion on the center tread going forwards.

Also, how much does your wheel setup weigh.

Total weight of each front wheel / tire is 13oz and for each rear wheel / tire, 11.5oz.

There were times when I thought the Rovers should have carried me up a climb, but just didn't want to grab.

I have since opened up and drilled 4 air holes and that looks like it is going to help...I think they were trapping too much air.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mascman View Post
I'm liking my BW chassis a lot.

I have Rovers and was wondering which direction was the better one? I have mine mounted with the protrusion on the center tread going forwards.

Also, how much does your wheel setup weigh.

Total weight of each front wheel / tire is 13oz and for each rear wheel / tire, 11.5oz.

There were times when I thought the Rovers should have carried me up a climb, but just didn't want to grab.

I have since opened up and drilled 4 air holes and that looks like it is going to help...I think they were trapping too much air.
Fronts are 14 each and rears are about 7 each.

I am using uncut Panther F400 foams on all 4 tires.

Turn your tires around. I tried them in that direction first time out and they were not good. Turned them around and they are the best tire I have ever used.

Last edited by Harvo; 05-25-2009 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:47 PM   #33
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looks great. do you like your lipo's? i just ordered me a set up to start.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:37 PM   #34
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looks great. do you like your lipo's? i just ordered me a set up to start.
I have no idea why I waited so long.
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