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Old 11-15-2008, 04:20 PM   #1
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Default Output shaft fix

You break an output shaft, Now what. Well instead of buying another set for $20 do this. Get a 3" piece of 3/16" steel tubing. Cut it down to match the overall length of unbroken out put shaft. Then drill through the broken output with a 3/16" drill bit. Then here is the magic tool A block of wood and a 1/4" drill bit. Drill a hole about 1/4" from the top edge of the block, that is where your going to place the output into. Drill the cross pin hole. then when you have finished the cross pin hole place your 3/16" steel tube in the output and drill through the hole into and through the tube. Take Locktight red and coat the steel tube insert it into the output and then insert the cross pin. Depending on how long your cross pin is you may need to sand or grind it down. So you can put the output back into the bearing. And there you go. I have been running these outputs on my comp since spring of 08 and no problems.

Hope this can help some one.
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Last edited by hitman46mod; 11-15-2008 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 11-15-2008, 04:32 PM   #2
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that sir, is genius.
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Old 11-15-2008, 04:34 PM   #3
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Very good thinking, please keep us updated on how it holds up!
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Old 11-15-2008, 04:35 PM   #4
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Very nicely done. That also might be a great way to install larger driveshaft output adaptors for maxx shafts. Could also maybe use a solid rod all the way through the diff for real stiffness.
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Old 11-15-2008, 06:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnster View Post
Very nicely done. That also might be a great way to install larger driveshaft output adaptors for maxx shafts. Could also maybe use a solid rod all the way through the diff for real stiffness.
That is a great idea. I have my tubing drilled through so I don't worry about the yokes coming off in a comp. You could easily bolt a set of 6mm yokes to them. I also use threaded shock collers to keep my driveshafts from poping off. I have yet to have an issue with this setup. I have run it since early spring when our comps began.
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Last edited by hitman46mod; 11-15-2008 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 11-15-2008, 09:37 PM   #6
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Thats a great idea. I will have to do that when mine break.
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:12 AM   #7
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thats a great idea, do you think you could use a 3/16 solid rod instead of tubing?
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Old 11-16-2008, 07:17 AM   #8
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or even better yet... get some tool steel, or drill rod... very strong.
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Old 11-16-2008, 08:03 AM   #9
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where was this post a month ago? ha
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Old 11-16-2008, 09:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old man 52 View Post
thats a great idea, do you think you could use a 3/16 solid rod instead of tubing?
You could I would not see a problem, I just used what I had laying around.

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Originally Posted by PEDEcrawlerguy View Post
or even better yet... get some tool steel, or drill rod... very strong.
If you are able to drill through it, that would be even stronger. I have not had any problems with my set up and I have logged 10 hours of drive time on my rig in the last six months.

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where was this post a month ago? ha
Tell me about it, I figured out how to do this the day after I ordered a new set. I finally sold them to a friend I crawl with, after they sat in a drawer for 6 months.
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Old 11-16-2008, 10:02 AM   #11
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Im not as good at making things so I went this route http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...&highlight=CDW Very good quality and he also has the 5mm stock replacment.
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:32 PM   #12
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That would be a good idea, just make a single tube that goes straight through.
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:50 PM   #13
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That is a great mod. I run the RC4WD hardened internal gears so there is no need, but awesome job.
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Old 11-16-2008, 11:22 PM   #14
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Another option for shaft material is using a traxxas stub axle, I used one for the jato. It's already flat spotted and it's drilled through where the yoke attaches and where the pin goes through. The only downside is you need a metric drill bit (5mm if memory serves). Also, you will have to cut the threaded end off. I left mine where it sits in the pocket of the other output for a li'l more stability. You could easily make a whole one that went all the way through out of the 3/16" rod.

You can see the stub in the lower left of the pic on this page http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMG2&P=7

You should be able to get a pair of 'em pretty cheap, with pin, buying this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMG4&P=7

Last edited by jakepkoe; 11-16-2008 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:02 AM   #15
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Good Idea I wish i would have seen that sooner!
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #16
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Great mod. thanks for posting.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:45 AM   #17
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i have done this to three stock axial trannys with a solid rod through both outdrives and it has been bomb proof so far
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Old 05-04-2009, 11:56 AM   #18
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Man, I just did this same thing. I wish I would have seen the thread first, It would have knocked a few minutes off my figuring! LOL Only thin I did differently was I made a "set screw" then drilled and tapped the new shaft and original piece. wasnt needed really but thats where my thought process eneded! LOL
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Old 07-10-2009, 03:55 PM   #19
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i didnt see this till now but i did it a few weeks ago and its held up great so far
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Old 08-08-2009, 03:56 PM   #20
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FYI, Drill #9 = 5MM

I just checked out this thread to see its almost a year old. It seems that the design engineers at Axial are sleeping. I have 2 AX10 kits. One is assembled the other still in the box. I ran the assembled one for a total of 11 minutes at a comp a couple weeks back. I completed 2 of the 5 minute courses then broke the output shaft after only 1 minute in the third course. A brand new AX10 fails after only 11 minutes means defect! I can see no reason for the 5mm hole inside the output shaft. The difference between the outside diameter and inside diameter is only 1mm divided by 2 gives you a wall thickness of .5mm or.0197" Then they mill a flat for the setscrew further reducing the wall. On my output shaft the flat was milled into the 5mm hole there by eliminating any structural integrity of the part.

Last edited by BUGNUT; 08-08-2009 at 04:16 PM.
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