11-15-2008, 03:20 PM | #1 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 1,508
| Output shaft fix
You break an output shaft, Now what. Well instead of buying another set for $20 do this. Get a 3" piece of 3/16" steel tubing. Cut it down to match the overall length of unbroken out put shaft. Then drill through the broken output with a 3/16" drill bit. Then here is the magic tool A block of wood and a 1/4" drill bit. Drill a hole about 1/4" from the top edge of the block, that is where your going to place the output into. Drill the cross pin hole. then when you have finished the cross pin hole place your 3/16" steel tube in the output and drill through the hole into and through the tube. Take Locktight red and coat the steel tube insert it into the output and then insert the cross pin. Depending on how long your cross pin is you may need to sand or grind it down. So you can put the output back into the bearing. And there you go. I have been running these outputs on my comp since spring of 08 and no problems. Hope this can help some one. Last edited by hitman46mod; 11-15-2008 at 05:15 PM. |
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11-15-2008, 03:32 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Pasadena
Posts: 1,118
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that sir, is genius.
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11-15-2008, 03:34 PM | #3 |
MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,939
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Very good thinking, please keep us updated on how it holds up! |
11-15-2008, 03:35 PM | #4 |
MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL
Posts: 3,995
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Very nicely done. That also might be a great way to install larger driveshaft output adaptors for maxx shafts. Could also maybe use a solid rod all the way through the diff for real stiffness.
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11-15-2008, 05:01 PM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 1,508
| That is a great idea. I have my tubing drilled through so I don't worry about the yokes coming off in a comp. You could easily bolt a set of 6mm yokes to them. I also use threaded shock collers to keep my driveshafts from poping off. I have yet to have an issue with this setup. I have run it since early spring when our comps began. Last edited by hitman46mod; 11-15-2008 at 05:03 PM. |
11-15-2008, 08:37 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mount Holly
Posts: 224
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Thats a great idea. I will have to do that when mine break.
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11-16-2008, 05:12 AM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Port Orange
Posts: 1,855
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thats a great idea, do you think you could use a 3/16 solid rod instead of tubing?
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11-16-2008, 06:17 AM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: clearfield
Posts: 678
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or even better yet... get some tool steel, or drill rod... very strong.
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11-16-2008, 07:03 AM | #9 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 29
| too late
where was this post a month ago? ha
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11-16-2008, 08:22 AM | #10 | ||
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 1,508
| Quote:
Quote:
Tell me about it, I figured out how to do this the day after I ordered a new set. I finally sold them to a friend I crawl with, after they sat in a drawer for 6 months. | ||
11-16-2008, 09:02 AM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: Two Harbors, MN
Posts: 118
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Im not as good at making things so I went this route http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...&highlight=CDW Very good quality and he also has the 5mm stock replacment.
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11-16-2008, 05:32 PM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 1,508
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That would be a good idea, just make a single tube that goes straight through. |
11-16-2008, 05:50 PM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Huntington Beach
Posts: 353
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That is a great mod. I run the RC4WD hardened internal gears so there is no need, but awesome job. |
11-16-2008, 10:22 PM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: FW/D
Posts: 44
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Another option for shaft material is using a traxxas stub axle, I used one for the jato. It's already flat spotted and it's drilled through where the yoke attaches and where the pin goes through. The only downside is you need a metric drill bit (5mm if memory serves). Also, you will have to cut the threaded end off. I left mine where it sits in the pocket of the other output for a li'l more stability. You could easily make a whole one that went all the way through out of the 3/16" rod. You can see the stub in the lower left of the pic on this page http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMG2&P=7 You should be able to get a pair of 'em pretty cheap, with pin, buying this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMG4&P=7 Last edited by jakepkoe; 11-16-2008 at 10:25 PM. |
11-17-2008, 12:02 AM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rocklin
Posts: 374
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Good Idea I wish i would have seen that sooner!
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01-02-2009, 06:48 PM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: st pete
Posts: 15
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Great mod. thanks for posting. |
01-05-2009, 04:45 AM | #17 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: greencastle
Posts: 7
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i have done this to three stock axial trannys with a solid rod through both outdrives and it has been bomb proof so far
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05-04-2009, 10:56 AM | #18 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: Va Beach
Posts: 106
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Man, I just did this same thing. I wish I would have seen the thread first, It would have knocked a few minutes off my figuring! LOL Only thin I did differently was I made a "set screw" then drilled and tapped the new shaft and original piece. wasnt needed really but thats where my thought process eneded! LOL
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07-10-2009, 02:55 PM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: peoria
Posts: 207
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i didnt see this till now but i did it a few weeks ago and its held up great so far
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08-08-2009, 02:56 PM | #20 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6
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FYI, Drill #9 = 5MM I just checked out this thread to see its almost a year old. It seems that the design engineers at Axial are sleeping. I have 2 AX10 kits. One is assembled the other still in the box. I ran the assembled one for a total of 11 minutes at a comp a couple weeks back. I completed 2 of the 5 minute courses then broke the output shaft after only 1 minute in the third course. A brand new AX10 fails after only 11 minutes means defect! I can see no reason for the 5mm hole inside the output shaft. The difference between the outside diameter and inside diameter is only 1mm divided by 2 gives you a wall thickness of .5mm or.0197" Then they mill a flat for the setscrew further reducing the wall. On my output shaft the flat was milled into the 5mm hole there by eliminating any structural integrity of the part. Last edited by BUGNUT; 08-08-2009 at 03:16 PM. |
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