|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
11-20-2008, 09:48 AM | #1 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Finland
Posts: 1,265
| Help me improve my steering I’ve been working on my steering lately. I’ve managed to improve the steering angle and lower the COG. But doing so, I’ve run into problems with the tie rod. Now I’m stuck here and thought maybe some input from you would help me to come up with a better solution still. I countersunk the screws on the axles to allow the knuckles to turn a bit more. Then I did a new servo mount in Bender-style to lower the COG a bit. But now with the servo situated much lower, I’m having troubles with the tie rod. As you can see, I’ve had to bend it quite a bit to clear the servo arm. I had to switch to a longer servo arm to get more movement from the servo and be able to use the extra steering angle I got with the countersunk screws. I have my EPA's set at max 120%, so I can't get more movement there. I’m not that satisfied with the tie rod being bent like that and having to keep it low to clear the drag link. I would like to keep my low servo mount and improved steering angle together with the original and stronger tie rod. Any ideas on how I could do that? Thankful for any help! Last edited by Tomy; 11-20-2008 at 11:07 AM. |
Sponsored Links | |
11-20-2008, 10:30 AM | #2 | |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: cowtown
Posts: 18
| Quote:
Looks like , if you move the servo horn knuckle up one hole , trim the servo horn tip , and attach the drag link to the bottom of the arm on the steering knuckle , not the top , it will clear . | |
11-20-2008, 10:31 AM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: centennial
Posts: 230
|
the plastic knuckles and c hub are weak i just broke a knuckle building a course luckily i was able to switch one out from the back but their weak. i just spent $75 on aluminum knuckles c hubs and rear lock out with the straight axle, so i hoping the combo of the c hubs and knuckles have been designed well enough so i can get better steering. i think the drag link you have is good, but i figured that all the steering components are going to drag unless you get a kit to reverse the steering and but it behind the wheel. but i haven't heard on how well that works. but the kit i have seen is on here... http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=1187 this is also where i orded my other steering parts on. |
11-20-2008, 12:15 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: richmond
Posts: 240
|
i just put axial cvd's on my front but the pin lasted maybe 3 outings! they really need to revise this
|
11-20-2008, 04:36 PM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: SoCal
Posts: 157
|
Best way to improve your steering.... RCP Max Clearance Knuckles RCP Clockable Cs Axial Cvds Even just the knuckles will help alot because they clear the screw without having to countersink it, and give a ton more strengh. As far as the servo position and Epa promblem, im not sure about the servo you have on there, but it might have a low degree rotation, which is why you have to turn it to 120% and run such a long arm, Because i can get full steering with my 7955 with all 3 upgrades i listed with a 3/4 inch arm. Last edited by BR4x4; 11-20-2008 at 04:43 PM. |
11-20-2008, 04:40 PM | #6 | |
Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: joppa
Posts: 24
| Quote:
| |
11-20-2008, 05:41 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Kansas city
Posts: 223
|
How about instead of bending the linkage you could put the servo horn on so that it sticks up. I have seen this on a few rigs, and never heard any bad things about it yet. Just a thought. |
11-20-2008, 07:15 PM | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: west palm beach
Posts: 47
|
cant you run 2 separate tie rods? long one to passanger side and short to drivers side? |
11-20-2008, 07:35 PM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: here
Posts: 3,042
| |
11-20-2008, 10:55 PM | #10 | |||
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Finland
Posts: 1,265
|
Thanks for the ideas! Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks again! | |||
11-20-2008, 11:08 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: SoCal
Posts: 157
|
[quote=Tomy;1437290]Thanks for the ideas! I find this interesting. Thanks! I've see many rigs with a similar servo location using much shorter servo horns. Maybe I'll be able to fix the problem with a simple servo switch. Any suggestions on affordable but decent quality servos (max $50)?quote] For 50$ a good servo would be a Hitec 5645. Its not the strongest, as far as torque goes, but its metal gears and Ive had great luck with every Hitec servo ive owned. HS 5645mg |
11-20-2008, 11:14 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Huntington Beach
Posts: 353
|
Here is my setup similar to yours. This might help u out. I have Axial front CVD's with RCP knuckles and C's. Gained a lot more steering. Made 1/4 steering rod from aluminum tubing with revo ends. Last edited by Flash; 11-20-2008 at 11:16 PM. |
11-21-2008, 12:23 AM | #13 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Finland
Posts: 1,265
| Quote:
There must be some differencies in the geometry of the original plastic knuckles and the RCP knuckles, the later ones giving more steering than the axial plastic ones with the same servo movement. I can't think of any other explanation. You have got your servo nice and low with a good looking tie rod and drag link . Which servo are you using? | |
11-21-2008, 10:15 AM | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: FW/D
Posts: 44
|
If you mount your drag link to the inner hole on your knuckle you'll get more knuckle movement per movement of the servo. You could mount the tie rod to the inner holes too if it makes it easier. If it'll clear your tire, you could flip the servo and put the servo arm pointing up. That'd lessen the angle on the drag link and get it out of the way of the tie rod. |
11-21-2008, 12:09 PM | #15 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: yes
Posts: 182
|
Perhaps if you mounted the driven link (servo to knuckle) directly on top of the knuckle arm and mounted the drag link on top of the driven link, you can get clearance and keep your servo horn. You will have to bend the drag link out toward the front of the truck to clear the servo horn and driven link, though.
|
11-21-2008, 11:35 PM | #16 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Finland
Posts: 1,265
|
Thanks for all the help and ideas guys! I'll try the RCP knuckles and see how that changes the steering geometry. I'll do more R&D after I get them. |
11-27-2008, 02:51 AM | #17 |
Shelf queen Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Internet
Posts: 5,857
|
I think if you mount your tie rod below the knuckle your tie rod and servo horn would have the necessary clearance and you'd be able to run a straight drag link between the knuckles. Unfortunately you'd lose some clearance/approach angle in front of the axle.
|
11-27-2008, 08:09 AM | #18 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Finland
Posts: 1,265
|
My LHS is not stocking the RCP knuckles any more. He's offering me RC4WD knuckles instead. I've only seen a picture on them but they look a lot like the original plastic ones, except they are aluminun. Does anyone here know if they will give me more steering? I'm talking about these: http://www.rc4wdealer.com/index.php?...roducts_id=875 |
11-27-2008, 08:58 AM | #19 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Belgium
Posts: 166
|
Just the RC4WD knuckles alone dont give you any change compared to the original setup, they are pretty much a copy of the originals. First thing I would check out is the tx, do you have your servo moving as much as possible? I was in the same boat and could not get a full servo throw. Found out I could adjust the DX3 servo throw from 100% to 125%. What comes to c's and knuckles, I use HR ones the same way Axial uses their new alum versions (Axial alum and plastic knuckles are the same, difference is in the c's). As you can see from the bad pic, the c's are cylindrical without the "humps" for the screws. Instead of allens on both sides I use setscrews on the front. This is what the Axial ones use also. They are enough to keep the c's in place. This gives as much throw as is possible with the CVD's (which are necessary, you can not make the steering angle any bigger with the original dogbones). And you can get the HR parts with a $0.99 shipping from liquidrc.com. The cheapest supplier for us outside US But if you want to support your LHS (you should!) I suppose you can get the same effect with the RC4WD c's and knuckles also. Dont forget the CVDs. |
12-01-2008, 08:07 AM | #20 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Finland
Posts: 1,265
|
Good info. Thanks! |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |