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Old 02-05-2009, 09:39 PM   #21
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that sounds like a good setup but if you want to climb well move the weight up front(i suggest a split cell pack) and get a more powerful servo , also i tried flipping my shocks upside down but im having clearance issues with the shock body, what hardware did you use to give the shocks more clearance

Last edited by BEN214; 02-05-2009 at 09:41 PM. Reason: ask a question
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEN214 View Post
that sounds like a good setup but if you want to climb well move the weight up front(i suggest a split cell pack) and get a more powerful servo , also i tried flipping my shocks upside down but im having clearance issues with the shock body, what hardware did you use to give the shocks more clearance
I've seen a guy locally to me that has his shocks inverted and he is using spacers to get the clearance between the lower links and shocks. I can't remember the exact setup, but I DO know that spacers are involved. Seems to work out pretty well for him.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:29 PM   #23
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take a dremel and a sand the square edges off the bottom of your axles not too much just enough to round them off and they will slide over rock easier with less hang ups
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:24 PM   #24
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Default no tire foams

I found no tire foams sucks if you dont vent youre tires cause when its real cold out they get flat spots and if you do vent youre tires they roll right over and you roll right down hills, I run soft narrowed full diameter foams taht came with my rubicons in the back and a set of little hard race foams in the front there only about 3/4" thick so theres just enough there to stop the tire from rolling over side or down hilling, but it leaves 3/4" of tire to wrap around stuff for ral good bite I put a 1100 mah lipo on my front links I got it real cheap bought a $30 charger from tower and that was the best mod ever, Ive run 3 cells on each side under the body pins, 4 on the front link two on the back 4 on the front and 3 on the back and the lipo rules and if that doesnt help than buy a stronger sevro or a esc with a higher output bec like the novak crawler, I love youre I dea about making the swamper tires though I bet they look sick
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:30 PM   #25
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If you have link or shock ends that are binding you can replace the pivot balls with traxxas balls that allow more angle. They are slightly narrower that the axial balls so some shimming may be required.

Traxxas rod ends are direct replacement for the axial parts. you can get a pack of 12 long and 4 short for $6 including the above mentioned pivot balls. I will try to find the part # latter.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:43 PM   #26
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Thanks for some of the tips....
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:47 AM   #27
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is there a way you can take a picture of the spacers for the inverted shocks...i just thought about doing that last night with mine and wanted to test and see how that worked out...TIA
Quote:
Originally Posted by JarheadRCGuy View Post
I've seen a guy locally to me that has his shocks inverted and he is using spacers to get the clearance between the lower links and shocks. I can't remember the exact setup, but I DO know that spacers are involved. Seems to work out pretty well for him.
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Old 02-21-2009, 07:43 PM   #28
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chop the body so none of the tires rub that will make it crawl a hec of a lot better
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:26 PM   #29
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see in red

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Originally Posted by TourevoEclipse View Post
Does this make any difference? seems to

Has anyone removed the foam from their tires? Yes
Im not running foam and it seams to do just as well as with the foam. The foam keeps the tires from folding on them selfs when your traversing on a hill.

I also cut my hammers to resemble Super Swamper Boggers

My battery is mounted to the rear upper links, held down by the velcro.

I have found that if the front weighs to much the servo struggles. Get a higher torque servo.

I had a problem with spinning my drivelines and so I decided to take a file to the output shaft on the transfer case. I filled down the side 180 degrees from the factory flat spot and installed two set screws. I drilled through mine and put a long set screw in.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:15 PM   #30
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After some mods, I was able to flip my shocks, I knotched the skid plate, moved the lower suspension arms in (frame side). At the axle I picked up some longer bolts and moved the suspension arms in further also. This provided me enough clearance to flip the shocks. would reccommend spacers to keep the shocks from moving around.


Update:
tire foam removal

I have seen no issues with the tires folding over onto themselves, further more they seem to just as well when I had foam.

Cut tire update
The cut hammers preform alot better on rocks and mud. The tires clean alot better.
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:01 AM   #31
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Practice. The best setup in the world won't help if you don't know what it's gonna do in a certain situation.
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Old 02-27-2009, 05:18 PM   #32
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how to make weights on your ax10

How to make weights for your ax10.
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Old 02-28-2009, 04:46 PM   #33
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Default weight

instead of buying weights take front bead locks off and fill the tires full of water with foam out and also the back half full i need some gering ideas im running stell drive shaft water in tires and front axial battery packs need to regear to get back the power of my 45t without changing motor send me a message if anyone has any good ideas
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:10 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcrazyp View Post
instead of buying weights take front bead locks off and fill the tires full of water with foam out and also the back half full i need some gering ideas im running stell drive shaft water in tires and front axial battery packs need to regear to get back the power of my 45t without changing motor send me a message if anyone has any good ideas

I would not do this., what will you do if you are on a steep climb and lose a bead? that is alot of water to pour onto your electronics.
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:40 PM   #35
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There is a system on ebay made for crawlers which allows you to fill up with water. I wouldn't recomnd doing that if it is just a regular beadlock.
Anyone use air instead of foams?
Oh and I had my truck out yesterday with no foams and it was BRUTAL!!! You NEED FOAMS!!! Don't kid yourself.
You can star cut the foams if you want or ideally get memory foam.
Hope that helps
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:13 AM   #36
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i found out this weekend to take the paint and whatnot off the links, oven cleaner to them for about 10 minutes and take a scouring pad to it. paint comes right off. then just a dremel and polish helps clean it up a bit
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:29 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trynacrawl View Post
There is a system on ebay made for crawlers which allows you to fill up with water. I wouldn't recomnd doing that if it is just a regular beadlock.
Anyone use air instead of foams?
Oh and I had my truck out yesterday with no foams and it was BRUTAL!!! You NEED FOAMS!!! Don't kid yourself.
You can star cut the foams if you want or ideally get memory foam.
Hope that helps

I am running no foam and it works well, I guess it all personal preference and driver skill
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:20 AM   #38
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I found this on youtube
Hope this helps:-Phttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8W8qC...eature=related
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:29 PM   #39
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The stock tires do much better with no foam, but the $40 for top notch tires is well worth it
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:18 PM   #40
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good info in the thread. The water sounds like a bad idea. I've seen it in rockcrawling but don't know that I would like water around an rc car like that.
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