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Old 03-12-2009, 01:39 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawfishStu View Post
good info in the thread. The water sounds like a bad idea. I've seen it in rockcrawling but don't know that I would like water around an rc car like that.
Waterproofing is never perfect but I've waterproofed both mine and my roommates axials. At first I ballooned everything but they got holes and I fried the esc. Small plastic boxes like tuperware are good. Leave enough room so the electronics can breath (I haven't had any problem with a baloon on the servo). Cut a notch in the plastic for the wires. Put on the top and put some silicone sealant around the wires to fill the notch. Once you start driving through water It will all be worth it.
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:13 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by trynacrawl View Post
There is a system on ebay made for crawlers which allows you to fill up with water. I wouldn't recomnd doing that if it is just a regular beadlock.
Anyone use air instead of foams?
Oh and I had my truck out yesterday with no foams and it was BRUTAL!!! You NEED FOAMS!!! Don't kid yourself.
You can star cut the foams if you want or ideally get memory foam.
Hope that helps
I ran my rock claws with no foam and no vents for a couple of months and it worked great for me. I put my wheels together in front of the air conditioner just trapping atmospheric air pressure inside them....then once outside in the warmer weather the air expanded to just about the perfect pressure.
I have switched to panthers for the extra height...but I prefer the tractability of my aired up claws over the panthers any time ground clearance isn't an issue.
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:44 AM   #43
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What's this I hear about "zip tied driveshafts???"
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Old 03-17-2009, 06:48 PM   #44
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this is my first post so bear with me if my pics dont show up the first try.


I used the extra t-case peices (or whatever they are) that came with my AX10 as battery trays on the front axle


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Old 03-17-2009, 06:49 PM   #45
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:00 PM   #46
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Tires are a huge upgrade for the axial, You can do al the suspension mods you want but if you cant hook up your not going anywhere
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:03 PM   #47
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also you can see I used the spacers to raise my steering a bit. every inch counts
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:10 PM   #48
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I broke a driveshaft and noticed another was twisting. the local shop sells packs of 5 t maxx drive shafts I think for 9.99. they turned out to be a bit short so I made this.
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:02 PM   #49
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Default springs

just to let people know duratraxx mini quake springs fit perfect in ax10 shocks as internals
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Old 04-02-2009, 05:09 PM   #50
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I haven't gotten my AX10 finished yet, too much other stuff came up.
Can someone tell me on a stock AX10, what the measured distance is between the inside of the rear tire to the inside of the tire opposite of it ?
( both are rear tires, not rear to front tire )

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2009, 09:20 AM   #51
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Default Cheap (delrin style) links made from pens

EXTREMELY cheap tech. Tip for keeping the rock grabbing aluminum from hanging you up on the rocks.
Just unscrew one of the rod ends off the link and slide the body of a "Bic" style pen (or some of the cheap click ones like from a bank) over the link and as close to the end of the rod as you can then screw the end back on. walla you've got a great slider that cut down the friction and makes it easy to glide over the rocks.
You can use colored ones too and get rid of the hidious green and a 48 pack of pens from Office Depot is only $3.
You can slide them over the bent links as well, it just takes a little pushing but they will go over them. My rear links on my tuber are stock AX10 bent with plain white pen bodies pushed over them. Slides over the rocks like butter now. Top custom rear links were covered by some bank pens just to cover up the ugly fadded color and extention job.
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Old 04-04-2009, 09:20 PM   #52
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thats a good trick for the links....now whar did i put that pen
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Old 04-29-2009, 05:33 PM   #53
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Default upside down shocks?

so, when my shocks go into full or even close to full droop, my spring has no tension,.. leaving the lower spring retainer loose, and somtimes falling out, now, if i were to flip my shocks and flex at all...they would just fall right down....any tips on what i can do to keep them put on the shock mounting piece.
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:16 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke Joke View Post
also you can see I used the spacers to raise my steering a bit. every inch counts
If you keep the tie rod spaced that high you will
get to much twist on the screws that go thru the knuckle. It will eventually twist the screw out of the knuckle. Or it will bind up and break.
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:19 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Twisted Wicked View Post
so, when my shocks go into full or even close to full droop, my spring has no tension,.. leaving the lower spring retainer loose, and somtimes falling out, now, if i were to flip my shocks and flex at all...they would just fall right down....any tips on what i can do to keep them put on the shock mounting piece.

put a ziptie on the piston rod above the retainer.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:09 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krakker View Post
EXTREMELY cheap tech. Tip for keeping the rock grabbing aluminum from hanging you up on the rocks.
Just unscrew one of the rod ends off the link and slide the body of a "Bic" style pen (or some of the cheap click ones like from a bank) over the link and as close to the end of the rod as you can then screw the end back on. walla you've got a great slider that cut down the friction and makes it easy to glide over the rocks.
You can use colored ones too and get rid of the hidious green and a 48 pack of pens from Office Depot is only $3.
You can slide them over the bent links as well, it just takes a little pushing but they will go over them. My rear links on my tuber are stock AX10 bent with plain white pen bodies pushed over them. Slides over the rocks like butter now. Top custom rear links were covered by some bank pens just to cover up the ugly fadded color and extention job.

Excelent idea!!!!!!!! Im all over this! Mine are getting pretty war torn and they catch more than when they were new obviously. Definately putting this to use!
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:30 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManxCrawler View Post
Here's a tidy alternative to wheel weights that just sprung to mind - Plumbers lead free solder comes in 500g rolls, just wrap as much as you need around the inside of each wheel, it packs neatly just like an armature winding, then wrap a length of duct tape around it

Kev
I also found the local plumbing shop sells 'lead sheet' for roof flashings. Easy to cut into stips that fit any wheel diamentions and possibly cheaper than proprietary wheel weights from the local tire shop!
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:59 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by badnuz View Post
I found this on youtube
Hope this helps:-Phttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8W8qC...eature=related

that is AWESOME! It is a great study/proof for 1:1 cages too! I assume it is a home-made cage/chassis? What about the axles? They plastic? I know it may not be anyones' here... just wondering if anyone knows....


Thanks for posting that!
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:06 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by CreepyCrawl View Post
Vent your rims! I find that two 1/8" holes opposing eachother on each rim is beneficial. You may want to try varying the size and quantity of the vents, depending on your choice of foams and tires.

I recommend using a finger bit, or a Dremel on low RPM rather than a full sized drill on plastic rims.
Whats the need to vent your rims?

Cheers
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:50 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twitcher2403 View Post
Whats the need to vent your rims?

Cheers
It lets the foam breath so the tire can conform to rocks better. After you assemble the tire/wheel combo, your basically driving on ballons.
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