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Old 12-22-2009, 03:57 PM   #101
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for anyone who wants to run a semi droop suspension the associated springs or the losi springs fit the stock axial shocks and are 73mm long instead of the stock 90 mm long sets your truck down a little but still leaves room for up travel in your shock
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Old 12-25-2009, 12:00 PM   #102
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Default tire weight

I have put dynabeads in my tires with no foam.
Google dynamic balancing.
I have 8 ozs in all four and I can crawl over anything and it also helps with stopping quicker and holding position.
I have solid aluminum rims beadlocks each tire weighs 1 1/4 lbs .
I also took the rims and put them in the freezer before assembly and it helped with filling with sufficient air pressure to keep from folding , the traction i get is unreal, at all angles and all surfaces, i can stand it up on end with the power of the motor alone and walk it forward or reverse to attack any obstacle.I am running the goat 18.5 esc and motor combo good wheel speed and awesome crawling slow speed.
I have so much torque I twisted the front shaft off of trans where driveshaft bolts to it.
My first build, I am stoked to get it out and crawl on some rocks.No havent been outside with it, I live in alaska and I am looking for some indoor venues to play.Its winter here.:-(
The tires with the beads in them make a cool rain stick sound also suppoed to relaxing sound . double duty
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:30 AM   #103
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For what it's worth, switching the transmission around seems to help with torque twist. Pretty easy and a good way to get a look at what's going on if these things are new to you(which they are to me).
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:30 AM   #104
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Would like to see a pic of it standing up on end walking! If that is poss
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:07 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnavaugh View Post
I have put dynabeads in my tires with no foam.
Google dynamic balancing.
I have 8 ozs in all four and I can crawl over anything and it also helps with stopping quicker and holding position.
I have solid aluminum rims beadlocks each tire weighs 1 1/4 lbs .
I also took the rims and put them in the freezer before assembly and it helped with filling with sufficient air pressure to keep from folding , the traction i get is unreal, at all angles and all surfaces, i can stand it up on end with the power of the motor alone and walk it forward or reverse to attack any obstacle.I am running the goat 18.5 esc and motor combo good wheel speed and awesome crawling slow speed.
I have so much torque I twisted the front shaft off of trans where driveshaft bolts to it.
My first build, I am stoked to get it out and crawl on some rocks.No havent been outside with it, I live in alaska and I am looking for some indoor venues to play.Its winter here.:-(
The tires with the beads in them make a cool rain stick sound also suppoed to relaxing sound . double duty
Sounds pretty cool
what wheel setup did you have before? I am also curious as to how well it sidehills without folding over because of the (I assume:?) weaker sidewall oh and pictures please
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:35 PM   #106
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Can't get your pinion on without that darn screw hitting the spur or the pinion hitting the motor?

Get 6 or 12 3mm washers and stick them under the spur between it and the plate it screws to. It'll space it out 1 (6 washers) or 2 (12 washers) Millimeters, giving you enought room. Don't just put washers where the 3 screws hold the spur to the plate, fill in all the gaps/holes with a washer that way the spur will stay straight.
Ya may need 3 slightly longer screws for this.
In this way, you can space out the spur like that 3mm+ before you don't have enough thread to torque down the center nut. You could also make a lexan spacer between the motor and motor plate if needed, but spacing the spur is easier.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:59 PM   #107
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A nice way to find the link length without wasting material is to use bamboo skewers ( I like the ones safeway carries)to mock up link lengths as they stay straight, and are the right diameter to fit tightly in to rod ends, even revos with a little tape. You can even mark them with a sharpie to measure and you get the right length all the way in to the ridend if you're using all thread. A dremel cut off wheel cuts them nice'n'clean. You can chuck up the skewers in the dremel and hold some sandpaper to them if they're to thick to go in the rod ends.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:52 PM   #108
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I created a thread that shows one way to inboard mount your lower links, step-by-step.

How I mounted my links in the stock skid plate
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:07 PM   #109
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Default Great white north

Check out utube to build free obstacle out of pallets that are free. I had one good day to go chewin before it snowed again.I feel your pain.Just bought a scorpion with a new goat as well.Live in Hinton Alberta gateway to the rockies. I keep popping off the driveshafts as well.I was thinking of cutting my foams to get more flex in my tires and cant find any good patterns.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnavaugh View Post
I have put dynabeads in my tires with no foam.
Google dynamic balancing.
I have 8 ozs in all four and I can crawl over anything and it also helps with stopping quicker and holding position.
I have solid aluminum rims beadlocks each tire weighs 1 1/4 lbs .
I also took the rims and put them in the freezer before assembly and it helped with filling with sufficient air pressure to keep from folding , the traction i get is unreal, at all angles and all surfaces, i can stand it up on end with the power of the motor alone and walk it forward or reverse to attack any obstacle.I am running the goat 18.5 esc and motor combo good wheel speed and awesome crawling slow speed.
I have so much torque I twisted the front shaft off of trans where driveshaft bolts to it.
My first build, I am stoked to get it out and crawl on some rocks.No havent been outside with it, I live in alaska and I am looking for some indoor venues to play.Its winter here.:-(
The tires with the beads in them make a cool rain stick sound also suppoed to relaxing sound . double duty
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:00 PM   #110
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i like the fish wieghts idea going to use that for sure...


Flipping the transmision??? is this the same as moving the front axle to the rear??? nob ? but just starting thinking..
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:02 PM   #111
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yea i have fishing weights on mine where the 2 holes are on the axle on each side is where i screwd em in
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:15 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuesdaysfall View Post
i found out this weekend to take the paint and whatnot off the links, oven cleaner to them for about 10 minutes and take a scouring pad to it. paint comes right off. then just a dremel and polish helps clean it up a bit
If anyone does decide to do this, three things, make sure that the oven cleaner is NOT fume free, because it will not work. And 2 if you want to get a chrome look " which also looks good in my opinion" use a dremel with a buffer attachment and dip in chrome polish and polish away. Three when you take color off the links do not use tin foil, use a metal pan. My buddy actually had smoke bellowing out of his gargae.. lol
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:50 AM   #113
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A very quick fix to replace plastic lower links with stronger ones with old spare parts that I gather from my old cars..



The black section is carbon fiber rod, the yellow part is just fuel tubings - just there to cover up some cosmetic errors..
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:20 PM   #114
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:48 PM   #115
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I decided to improve the old design.. here goes .. I think this is the best deal so far.. the parts are cheap to get too.

4 pcs Hexagonal post M3 thread.
4 pcs 80mm M3 tie rod linkage.
4 pcs 15mm M3 tie rod linkage ( But I use M3 setscrews instead )
8 tie rod ends.. those plastic eyelet.

( pardon my parts description, cos I don't live in US and couldn't make out what those names were used when you guys are in the wrong side of the earth )

But the picture tells a 1000 words. enjoy..
http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/atta...0&d=1272890369
( click on link to get to the pictures.. the image size is flooding the screen if I attach it directly into this post )

Last edited by Krawl3r; 05-04-2010 at 05:39 AM.
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Old 05-13-2010, 06:15 PM   #116
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If you run the Axial links whether they be straight or bent and you would like to get a bit more wheelbase length and lower your chassis which lowers your CG a tad, replace the upper and lower rod ends with Dubro Heavy Duty Ball Links. They are longer and are extremely durable. They also come with misalignment spacers to allow for much better clearance with articulation.

Last edited by Robert51483; 05-13-2010 at 06:20 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 05-31-2010, 02:01 AM   #117
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Should you wish to install spider gears in the diffs (e.g. to make a rock racer out of the crawler) then HPI #86014 is a direct fit, and half the price of the Axial spider gears because each HPI pack contains enough parts for TWO diffs. (Ignore the misinformation on Towerhobbies and every other site out there, which all claim the HPI pack only contains enough parts for one diff.)

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Old 05-31-2010, 11:34 AM   #118
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heres a good source for carbon fiber
i made my own servo plates for a 4 link setup on my ax10


http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbon-fiber/=7bw2ng

Last edited by wilesmugen; 05-31-2010 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:23 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TourevoEclipse View Post
Does this make any difference?

Has anyone removed the foam from their tires?
Im not running foam and it seams to do just as well as with the foam.

I also cut my hammers to resemble Super Swamper Boggers

My battery is mounted to the rear upper links, held down by the velcro.

I have found that if the front weighs to much the servo struggles.

I had a problem with spinning my drivelines and so I decided to take a file to the output shaft on the transfer case. I filled down the side 180 degrees from the factory flat spot and installed two set screws.


When i got my crawler it didnt have foam in the tires. I found that the tires get stuck in the rocks really easy. I used two different foams in my tire like a two stage. It been working great for me.
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:25 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert51483 View Post
If you run the Axial links whether they be straight or bent and you would like to get a bit more wheelbase length and lower your chassis which lowers your CG a tad, replace the upper and lower rod ends with Dubro Heavy Duty Ball Links. They are longer and are extremely durable. They also come with misalignment spacers to allow for much better clearance with articulation.


Do you know who sells these end i just broke my stock plastic ones.
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