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Old 06-11-2010, 12:29 PM   #121
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i dont know if this is the answer im just putting it out there

Dubro Heavy Duty Ball Links?
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:30 PM   #122
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFPW8&P=ML
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:32 PM   #123
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these are the one your really looking for
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJGU3&P=7
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:48 PM   #124
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i used the low cg batterie plate on my rtc and placed 3of 6 cells on that and 3 on the reg batterie plate and also my radio just puting that out there
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Old 07-03-2010, 04:20 PM   #125
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Just finished making this, don't criticize how it looks because i made it all with hand tools and not with some fancy benders or anything, i bend it using a vice. I think it looks pretty good and it does the job very well, also incorporated the inside the chassis link mod.

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Old 07-04-2010, 08:02 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohsoslow View Post
Waterproofing is never perfect but I've waterproofed both mine and my roommates axials. At first I ballooned everything but they got holes and I fried the esc. Small plastic boxes like tuperware are good. Leave enough room so the electronics can breath (I haven't had any problem with a baloon on the servo). Cut a notch in the plastic for the wires. Put on the top and put some silicone sealant around the wires to fill the notch. Once you start driving through water It will all be worth it.
The Best way to water proof is to take apart your esc and servo/recivier so that the circuit board is out. Then take Liquid Electrical tape and Coat all of the electronics with it. Here is a video of someone doing it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_lQXDzS3pA

Trust me this guy knows what he's talking about. Check out his other video's to he's got a ton of info in them.
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:55 PM   #127
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looks good, papi. supposedly, cutting board is better material cause it slids over the rocks better. kick ass job, though, not all of us have access to cnc lathes like a lot of the members here seem to have.
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:56 AM   #128
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Default 55t motor the wrong way

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Old 11-18-2010, 04:49 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Migs View Post
This one is important:

You can also measure how long the antenna wire goes into the mast and cut the excess mast off, but I would recommend leaving the excess on because eventually you mast will crask at the bottom, and then you will need some excess material to trim off and be like new.

Migs
Maybe a bit late, but this is a bad idea.
Length of a receiver antenna is tuned to the circuit's dynamics. That's why you'll find in most manuals, it says DO NOT cut it.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:19 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by mbvdl View Post
Maybe a bit late, but this is a bad idea.
Length of a receiver antenna is tuned to the circuit's dynamics. That's why you'll find in most manuals, it says DO NOT cut it.
He never actually says to cut the wire, just the mast. but then he says not to cut the mast... and then says dont cut it till you need to cut it...
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:53 PM   #131
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quick ride height change uses 8 chainlinks from bike chain 8 screws 3mm 8 3mm lock nuts remove shocks from top of chassis insert screw with links one on each side of chassis tighten alittle then install shocks it will move shocks out alittle it helped me with stability alot an aquick half inche up or down give it a try works great
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:39 PM   #132
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for a 1/2 and 1/2 sprung/droop spring setup, use the internal springs from a venom in stock axial springs
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Old 01-12-2011, 03:17 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManxCrawler View Post
Here's a tidy alternative to wheel weights that just sprung to mind - Plumbers lead free solder comes in 500g rolls, just wrap as much as you need around the inside of each wheel, it packs neatly just like an armature winding, then wrap a length of duct tape around it

Kev
I used lead fishing weight. i got a spool of it a wal-mart for around $4.
you will need 2.
i got solid core for the front and holow core the the rear.
i wraped my stock ax-10 rims with the lead roll,then wraped that tight with electical tape.
worked great for me and seems likr a better and cheaper way to add wieght to your wheels.
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Old 01-12-2011, 03:30 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohsoslow View Post
Waterproofing is never perfect but I've waterproofed both mine and my roommates axials. At first I ballooned everything but they got holes and I fried the esc. Small plastic boxes like tuperware are good. Leave enough room so the electronics can breath (I haven't had any problem with a baloon on the servo). Cut a notch in the plastic for the wires. Put on the top and put some silicone sealant around the wires to fill the notch. Once you start driving through water It will all be worth it.
when trying to waterproof use Di-electric grease compound.
you can get it at any parts store for around $8.
this is a grease that is safe for electronics and keeps water out.
just fill your esc,servo and receiver with Di-electric compound
and if it makes you feel better wrap a ballon around it and no water will ever get in
you can also fill your trans and diffs with it.
lube and repell water all in one
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:14 PM   #135
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I'm looking at upgrading my shocks and see the popular choice is the taxxas big bores... Does anyone have the part numbers for the shock sets? When I search all Im seeing is to run the traxxas shocks not the part numbers...
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:18 PM   #136
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Asuming it's the same big-bores as my slash the part is 2660

http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_in...roducts_id=554
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:24 PM   #137
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it comes with a top link bracket like a triangle, mount that to the front top link, make a rear one like it , and mount to the rear, put the esc on the rear and the reciver on the frount zip tie the wires to the frame to avoid that nasty tranny gear lol but it put lil oz. on the rear ohhh and i also have a split battery pack on the front just a lil tip instead of mounting it to the side of the tranny like some people ..... and all the wires reach fine
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:32 AM   #138
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Default home made bent links

i bent my stock lower links by bending them on the bench over a tire iron. worked great and they look just like the ones that you can buy!!!
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:38 PM   #139
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Default shock mounts

Vanquish makes some brackets to mount shocks up higher on axle and move in the suspension arms I think they are $15 per axle
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:49 PM   #140
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Default New Servo?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnavaugh View Post
I have put dynabeads in my tires with no foam.
Google dynamic balancing.
I have 8 ozs in all four and I can crawl over anything and it also helps with stopping quicker and holding position.
I have solid aluminum rims beadlocks each tire weighs 1 1/4 lbs .
I also took the rims and put them in the freezer before assembly and it helped with filling with sufficient air pressure to keep from folding , the traction i get is unreal, at all angles and all surfaces, i can stand it up on end with the power of the motor alone and walk it forward or reverse to attack any obstacle.I am running the goat 18.5 esc and motor combo good wheel speed and awesome crawling slow speed.
I have so much torque I twisted the front shaft off of trans where driveshaft bolts to it.
My first build, I am stoked to get it out and crawl on some rocks.No havent been outside with it, I live in alaska and I am looking for some indoor venues to play.Its winter here.:-(
The tires with the beads in them make a cool rain stick sound also suppoed to relaxing sound . double duty
I added some weight on mine and they don't turn half as well as they used to...do you have an upgraded servo to support all the weight? I just bought a steering upgrade to aluminum, everything is stock, I'm hoping it'll help.
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