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Old 06-09-2013, 09:05 PM   #161
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ok guys...newb here and basically a stock ax10 and have red springs in front and blue in rear, stock shock oil, a stage 2 suspension kit, Axial front CVD's, Junfac shafts, lower links moved inward, Venom VSC240 esc and 55t motor(combo to be replaced with brushless or good brushed with drag brake), Hitec HS-7954hs servo, running on 2s lipo, rolling Voodoo gold dot tires and CI DD foams on Axial rockster rims

SO got the gold dots mounted yesterday and did some good crawling and noticed the torque twist and the rear is very stiff and doenst roll and follow the contour of rocks/brick/whatever so i wanted to know what i need to do to get this this to get the articulate properly
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:39 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
ok guys...newb here and basically a stock ax10 and have red springs in front and blue in rear, stock shock oil, a stage 2 suspension kit, Axial front CVD's, Junfac shafts, lower links moved inward, Venom VSC240 esc and 55t motor(combo to be replaced with brushless or good brushed with drag brake), Hitec HS-7954hs servo, running on 2s lipo, rolling Voodoo gold dot tires and CI DD foams on Axial rockster rims

SO got the gold dots mounted yesterday and did some good crawling and noticed the torque twist and the rear is very stiff and doenst roll and follow the contour of rocks/brick/whatever so i wanted to know what i need to do to get this this to get the articulate properly
if your running the stock y link up top... and the y links are in the furthest towards the center of the car.... that may be your problem,, I found my ax10 binds up a little when flexing if both upper y links are in the hole clostest to the center... if you haven't already, I would go to a new style of upper links instead of the y links..... that's what im working on right now! if your electronics are doing good, keep em... want more torque... you might want to do the fxr/45 turn motor combo, with a servo such as the hs7950th with a 3 cell lipo and a bec.... just my 2 cents
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #163
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if your running the stock y link up top... and the y links are in the furthest towards the center of the car.... that may be your problem,, I found my ax10 binds up a little when flexing if both upper y links are in the hole clostest to the center... if you haven't already, I would go to a new style of upper links instead of the y links..... that's what im working on right now! if your electronics are doing good, keep em... want more torque... you might want to do the fxr/45 turn motor combo, with a servo such as the hs7950th with a 3 cell lipo and a bec.... just my 2 cents
the C K R C stage 2 suspension had to softer front spring, longer upper tri-links and had you cut the skid plate to move the links inwards and also swap the shocks and add spacers in the rear to accommodate for the moving of the links to the inside of the chassis but the front works good, its the rear thats the issue that seems stiff so i was wondering if its the stiffer springs or i need to diff shock oil as thats stock. As for the electrics im very happy with my 400oz of torque servo and my 2s set-up other than the drag brake not being an option on the esc and the motor has done everything ive needed it so maybe i'll just upgrade the esc but would really like to go brushless so we will see but here are pics so people can help me out....





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Old 06-10-2013, 08:30 PM   #164
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the C K R C stage 2 suspension had to softer front spring, longer upper tri-links and had you cut the skid plate to move the links inwards and also swap the shocks and add spacers in the rear to accommodate for the moving of the links to the inside of the chassis but the front works good, its the rear thats the issue that seems stiff so i was wondering if its the stiffer springs or i need to diff shock oil as thats stock. As for the electrics im very happy with my 400oz of torque servo and my 2s set-up other than the drag brake not being an option on the esc and the motor has done everything ive needed it so maybe i'll just upgrade the esc but would really like to go brushless so we will see but here are pics so people can help me out....





looks good... I bit tall for my liking... I would definitely get a esc such as fxr for drag brake and all, then you could run a 3s lipo... that 2s is a TON of weight up high! I would get a 3s 1300 mah lipo, and a fxr your servo will get more voltage and be stronger, and your cg will be better due to a smaller battery up front.... besides that, looks good!
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:39 PM   #165
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looks good... I bit tall for my liking... I would definitely get a esc such as fxr for drag brake and all, then you could run a 3s lipo... that 2s is a TON of weight up high! I would get a 3s 1300 mah lipo, and a fxr your servo will get more voltage and be stronger, and your cg will be better due to a smaller battery up front.... besides that, looks good!
3s isnt happening(not right now atleast)...been debating on how to the the battery lower and have a few ideas floating around but this still wont change the rear end not doing its thing and articulating correctly
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:24 AM   #166
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3s isnt happening(not right now atleast)...been debating on how to the the battery lower and have a few ideas floating around but this still wont change the rear end not doing its thing and articulating correctly
I think your rear uppers are causing binding. Maybe try spacing the links in at the chassis. Looks like where they are mounted, they would hit chassis as it cycles. I would also recommend a 4link plate. That may fix it right there, not to mention it will help with torque twist.
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:15 PM   #167
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I think your rear uppers are causing binding. Maybe try spacing the links in at the chassis. Looks like where they are mounted, they would hit chassis as it cycles. I would also recommend a 4link plate. That may fix it right there, not to mention it will help with torque twist.
4 link plate...not sure about that, i'll have to google that...And check out if the links bind as i havent looked for binding, so your saying put washers/small spacers inside the chassis to push the link/pivot joint in, correct? And should i do the 4 link plate AND space in or is that just for the tri-link
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:24 PM   #168
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Mirror the trans and shift the motor to the other side?
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:31 PM   #169
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Under/over gears will help with twist as well.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:47 AM   #170
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Just got me an AX10 with SWX chassis to play with...this thread will help a lot. Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2017, 09:25 AM   #171
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this has been very helpful to me but i did it the cheap way RCCrawler.com- Your #1 source for Radio Controlled Rockcrawling!
Thanks for sharing it! This is exactly what I was looking for bit low on budget here
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:13 AM   #172
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Default Re: Axial tips and tricks

This thread is amazing! Thank you for all of ideas. I have a NOS Scorpion and I'm just starting my build.
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