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Old 01-01-2009, 07:19 PM   #1
666
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Default Axial tips and tricks

This section needs a tips and tricks sticky I have a few to add feel, free to add threads and tricks you know that are helpful.

Mirror Imaged Transmission

Output shaft fix

Maxx Shafts made easy.
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:30 PM   #2
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Gear ratio chart for easy referencing.

Just noticed the 16/87 is the same as the 15/87. Should be 41.82 by my calculator.
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Last edited by EeePee; 01-04-2009 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:11 PM   #3
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Anti Squat and Suspension Tech

This one is very helpfull! All though it still makes my brain numb when I think about it. Thanks everyone that contributed.
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:19 PM   #4
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build your own dig
http://rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101507
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:27 AM   #5
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When you attach the top of the shock absorber to the chasis put grease on the little washer so that it doesnt keep falling off as you thread the cross bolt in. -Migs

Last edited by Migs; 01-12-2009 at 03:32 AM.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:31 AM   #6
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Default Beadlock Tire Assembly

When assembling the tires, squeeze the rubber rim completely into the rim on both sides, then start all the beadlock screws 4 turns through the beadlock ring. Next slide the rubber rim out from inside the rim into its place under the beadlock ring. Finally finish screwing down the screws. As a last check see that the screw heads all touch the ring. Remeber not to overtighten the screws.-Migs
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:00 PM   #7
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This belongs here!!
http://rccrawler.com/forum/showthrea...t=AX10+battery
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:38 PM   #8
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Default On Receivers and Antennae

This one is important:

As you route your receiver's antenna through its mast, consider how close it comes to that hungry, nasty gear. Take your time to make sure it comes no where near that chainsaw of doom! A little duct tape may be necessary to route it away from this spinning devil.

Be sure to put a half drop of cyanoacralate glue on the base of the tube mast, lest you pull it off the wire antenna every time you remove the body!

You can also measure how long the antenna wire goes into the mast and cut the excess mast off, but I would recommend leaving the excess on because eventually you mast will crask at the bottom, and then you will need some excess material to trim off and be like new.

Migs

Last edited by Migs; 01-23-2009 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 01-17-2009, 09:15 PM   #9
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use loctite on every thing that dosn't nylock and ckrc bta all the way
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:13 AM   #10
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this has been very helpful to me but i did it the cheap way http://rccrawler.com/axialcompbuild.html
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Old 01-23-2009, 07:34 AM   #11
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Default Body Clip Management

Here is a good one so you will be able to remove the body clips without tools, and also so they will be harder to loose: Wrap a little duct tape (I use Gorilla Tape) around each clip more carefully than I have done. Pulling the clips out is now easy! Like so:


Last edited by Migs; 01-23-2009 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:31 AM   #12
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Here's a tidy alternative to wheel weights that just sprung to mind - Plumbers lead free solder comes in 500g rolls, just wrap as much as you need around the inside of each wheel, it packs neatly just like an armature winding, then wrap a length of duct tape around it

Kev
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:34 AM   #13
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Vent your rims! I find that two 1/8" holes opposing eachother on each rim is beneficial. You may want to try varying the size and quantity of the vents, depending on your choice of foams and tires.

I recommend using a finger bit, or a Dremel on low RPM rather than a full sized drill on plastic rims.
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:55 PM   #14
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I finally got sick of all whell slop the axial has in the wheel bearings. So I came up with a cheap fix. I went to the local hardware store and picked up a little bag of 5mm washers. They fit perfect right behind the hex pin on the stub shaft. They are not very tight but do put a slight preload on the bearings. This took all of the wheel slop away.

With the addition of a good tight fitting locker I got ALL of the slop to disapper. Now it is so much easier to control.
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:10 PM   #15
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This is not specific to Axial but........ cut a scap of lexan that is big enough to fit inside the body and wrap your antenna wire around, no more mast, much cleaner.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:15 PM   #16
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also another tip is flip ur shocks up side down to get the center gravity lower so ur gettin more weight down so if can flip shocks
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:44 PM   #17
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Default AS-1 Servo Rebuild

Has anyone tried to rebuild the stock servo from the AX10 Rock Racer RTR?
Looks like a futaba unit to me but I am not sure which gear set to use for the rebuild as it is not listed anywhere.

Thanks
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:06 PM   #18
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Got it - The Axial AS-1 servo is really a Futaba S3010 High Torque servo. Replacement gears are about $10.
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:59 PM   #19
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if you ever want to have decent steering make sure to run a bec with the higher powered servos
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdizzle122 View Post
also another tip is flip ur shocks up side down to get the center gravity lower so ur gettin more weight down so if can flip shocks
Does this make any difference?

Has anyone removed the foam from their tires?
Im not running foam and it seams to do just as well as with the foam.

I also cut my hammers to resemble Super Swamper Boggers

My battery is mounted to the rear upper links, held down by the velcro.

I have found that if the front weighs to much the servo struggles.

I had a problem with spinning my drivelines and so I decided to take a file to the output shaft on the transfer case. I filled down the side 180 degrees from the factory flat spot and installed two set screws.

Last edited by TourevoEclipse; 02-05-2009 at 10:31 PM.
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