Front axle binding

[rottenbelly]

I just installed Strc aluminum carriers and knuckles along with mip cvds. Even without the wheels on the front is binding up real bad. I cant figure out were at. Anyone else had a problem like this? Looks like this now.

[quickster47]

Did you take everything apart that you changed and try moving the individual pieces to isolate the binding? That would be the first thing I did to figure out the problem.

One other question. Was it very smooth before all the changes?

Carl

[rottenbelly]

Originally Posted by quickster47

Did you take everything apart that you changed and try moving the individual pieces to isolate the binding? That would be the first thing I did to figure out the problem.

One other question. Was it very smooth before all the changes?

Carl

It was very smooth before this. It was also smooth when i first put it together. I ran it a few minutes while setting up my dig and it seems like it tighted up. I have been working on different rigs all day so i just wanted to get some new ideas before i tore into it again.

[killswitch]

I havent had any major binding on the front axles since going to the CVDs, other than a small nub of "extra" material on the CVD coupler, opposite the grub screw, was rubbing the inside of the cup. It looked like a small piece of machining debris that was in the coupler and I guess it was pushed out by the pin. All of the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner prior to assembly and I didnt notice it till after it was assembled and in the housing. My rear axles bound up pretty badly when i went to the aluminum straight axle setup from axial. I ended up having to remove some material where the carriers mount on the plastic axle tubes. I think its due to the fact that the axle housings are always bent and twisted from being pulled from the mold while they are still warm and pliable. Its not so noticable when using the plastic parts because they "give" a bit. Ive had to do the same thing to a replacement housing when i ripped the screws out of the servo plate mounts in a nasty roll. Ive thought about trying the old boiling water trick to see if they can be made more straight and true before assembling them next time i need to replace a housing.

[cato]

I think I see MIP cvd's right.....you prob over tightened the wheel nut if you put the heels on. Wigle the Hexes if the don't wiggle, remove them, and next time you put the wheels on; don't crank the wheel nut, stop tightening it when it stops then make sure it still wiggles.

[NeXt559]

check the retaining pin in the cvds
make sure they are not bent or slipped out of their place.

if you havent already done it, replace the stock pin w/ a peice of piano wire that is the same diameter/ gauge

dont do what i did and try to drive it out of the bind, u'll end up createring ur c hubs.

[rottenbelly]

Thanks guys. It is actually my dna dig. It shifts fine but it has a tight spot in it . Gets loose then tight , so im tearing into it.

[Copious]

So what is actually binding the steering or the the driveline? If it is the steering then maybe the king pin screws are to tight or full of locktight. or if it is the noew drivline check that the screws holding the C's on are not to long and rubbing on the CVD shafts ( it has happened to me ) Also check that the bearings are seated correctly. Check to make sure that everything is just right. Experinces I have had with after market aluminum parts are
1: The CVD shafts wern't machined enough to fully slide in to the locker causing binding
2: The Aluminum axle C's where just a bit thinner than the stock plastic and the screws would contact the shafts and pinch them
3: Bearing seats in the aluminum parts are sometimes full of debris and cause the bearing to not sit in the right spots.

And if you have to leave your wheelnuts loose to avoid binding then something needs to be fixed. Try shaving the back of the hex slightly to gain the clearance.