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Thread: CVD Fix ? Check it out!

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Old 04-30-2009, 08:56 AM   #21
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Looks like 35* of angle (edit: turned out to be 37*)
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Last edited by durango#95; 05-11-2009 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:49 PM   #22
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Your lathe work is making my dremel look pretty ghetto! Looks good!
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:39 PM   #23
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Don't feel bad, I am spoiled rotten with the lathe thing. I have never had to buy one. I worked as a millwright for 13yrs, we had a full machine shop there. Now at my "new job" (been there about 2yrs now:-P) We just got a NEW lathe and mill (new machines kick ass!!!)
So I have all the skills to run them, but have never had to pay my own way
Actually, I thought that your dremel skills were amazing when I look at the pics. Don't think I could make them that uniform with a dremel tool.
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:06 AM   #24
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Awesome info guys, thanks for the tips
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:25 AM   #25
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I remember doing this back in the TLT days.
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:38 PM   #26
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I'd think a lot of stuff (like this) that we did with the TLTs would carry over to almost any axle.

Same with the Maxx shaft mod...
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:43 PM   #27
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I just wanted to redig this back up, just because it's a awsome idea








top one is Axial CVD
middle one is mine "with CVD fix"
last one without mod

i think i will dremel just a little bit more, to thin out the sides
glad i got turned on to this thread, helped me out alot, thanks Diezel & mtnbkr
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Old 11-09-2009, 03:54 AM   #28
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shortened and beveled tlt cup , 38°
it is easy to mod the cup , but the bad thing is it will bind at higher speed or torque and full steering
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:54 AM   #29
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been doing this mod on clod supers for years.
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Old 03-17-2010, 02:09 AM   #30
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im in the process of trimming my alum knucks and thinking about doing this how well will this mod work with the LD bta
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:39 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liverkiller1 View Post
im in the process of trimming my alum knucks and thinking about doing this how well will this mod work with the LD bta
It will still work. You'll have a little wheel wobble at full turn but you can get that with CVD's as well. Try it, you've got nothing to lose. It's a lot cheaper than buying CVD's only to break the pins. Seems like the pins Gunnar sells are holding up but other parts of the CVD can still fail.
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:46 AM   #32
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yep i got gunners pins and love em
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:41 AM   #33
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i did this mod but after about 2 months of comping every weekend the pin would wear on the cup and cause it to come out and lock up. i am still running the moded cups cuz it beats the hell out of breaking cvd pins every weekend
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durango#95 View Post
OK, for those of you with a lathe:
The cup measures .500" stock. I turned it down to .465", then use an 82* included angle counter sink in your tail stock and run it in until there is no more flat surface (from the cut you just made). They will look just like they did stock, same angle on the cup opening, just now shorter.
Will post pics in a few.
durango,

I don't have a stock cup handy, but I have a question about your numbers in the above post. I assume you're saying that you cut down the length of the cup by .035" before chamfering it? Is that correct?

Thanks,
Tommy
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:36 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by axman2010 View Post
I'll keep this in mind but I've never broken a pin in my mip cvds and I like throttle! And I run my wheel/tire combo at 1.25 lbs each front and dont let off when the tire is wedged! Guess Im lucky lol
Me either. Doing an axle rebuild and my stock, 3 year old cvds are still holding up. Little rusty, but not broken.
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:58 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
durango,

I don't have a stock cup handy, but I have a question about your numbers in the above post. I assume you're saying that you cut down the length of the cup by .035" before chamfering it? Is that correct?

Thanks,
Tommy

Yo uare correct. you shave down the overall cup length, then counterbore it
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:06 PM   #37
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So what is this the difference between these and regular dog bones?
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:13 PM   #38
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Quote:
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So what is this the difference between these and regular dog bones?
The cups are ground down. The dogbones themselves are the same. The cups are ground to let more steering without binding
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:20 PM   #39
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i bought a set of $11 steel outdrives that are machined shorter and give a hell of a lot of extra steering angle. forget the part # but these seem to do great and the knuckle is the limiter not the dogbone setup. jones bta and VP zeros coming soon. the stock dogbone setup with beef toobs apparently wont cut it, but maybe this mod or those custom outdrives will do it...
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:27 PM   #40
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HAHAHAHA!

We used to call this the "Badger" mod way back in 04-05.
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