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02-04-2009, 06:23 AM
| #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: north bend
Posts: 29
|  need to go bigger ax-10
hello everyone I am am kind of a newb to rc you could compared to most on the site but I own about 6 diff trucks includeing a losi mini crawler my latest truck now I am addicted to crawling but It seems I have worn ou the fun factor of the mini even with it modded out new chassis flations metal lockers gears k2-5 chassis ect now its time to go bigger I am waiting on by direct d tax return I am going to pull out 550 bucks at go down to my lhs and pick up a ax-10 artr kit I need advice on a motor/esc combo and batterys I want to go brushless novak/mamba I have no experience with lipos yet so i was wondering if I can run nihm off thiese combos since i dont feel like burning the house down on accident =) I would like to get it as comp worthy as possible just to get the good performace over stock everyday play I want to go to comps soon so keep that in mid on your advice this is my general understanding of what I would like to buy i can allways ad another 100 bucks to my budget but would like to spend little as possible ohh yeah I have a brand new pair of 2.2 m3 (4) flatirons on my workbench I am allmost eyeballing to death general direction I was steering  -Ax-10 artr - novak esc/motor combo or mamba?? - battery's hopeing to run nihm - high tec servo?? something with metal gears - own a reciever and battery charger and a never used futaba magnum 2 PL - whats a good battery setup? - allso need advice on how to break in electric motor's I have never owned brushless before this would be my first thanks for the advice I will post right out of the box and my build thread have a few ideas I want to tinker into it right outa the box from other threads /cheer!!  |
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02-04-2009, 06:37 AM
| #2 | |
| I joined the Band! Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Calgary
Posts: 39
| Quote:
Electric Motor break in.... http://www.rccartips.com/rc-electric...ning-guide.htm | |
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02-04-2009, 06:45 AM
| #3 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: north bend
Posts: 29
| sweet
so you only need to break in brushed motor's and not brushless?
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02-04-2009, 07:01 AM
| #4 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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Correct.
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02-04-2009, 07:28 AM
| #5 |
| Gettin’ back on the horse Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hoonsville
Posts: 6,671
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If you really want to be competetive stay with a brushed motor. |
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02-04-2009, 08:44 AM
| #6 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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02-04-2009, 09:09 AM
| #7 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: E. Concord
Posts: 179
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i recommend the brushed, you get a smoother lower end power
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02-04-2009, 11:21 AM
| #8 |
| I joined the Band! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,024
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Brushed fo crawlers Brushless for bashers. I run brushed in my AX10 and Brushless in my on road/ off road RC's |
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02-04-2009, 03:25 PM
| #9 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: north bend
Posts: 29
| awesome
thanks for the advice really helps in getting this right the first time =) I am about to go down to my bank and see if the money has arrived and if not gonna go to the shop and drool over the display (agin) haha! truck and see what kinda combo of esc/motor he has and ask you all if it would be a good set up hehe
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02-04-2009, 03:36 PM
| #10 | |
| I joined the Band! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,024
| Quote:
2. MaxAmps Saddle packs 3. Any HT MG servo will do 4. You do not have to wory about breaking in your motor. I never did and it is still running like new after 4 months. 5. The best battery set up is over the axle. MaxAmps makes some great saddle packs & Axial or TCS makes the mounting plate. | |
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02-04-2009, 08:31 PM
| #11 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: west carrollton
Posts: 107
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Best ESC for the money is the Tekin FX-R.....got a rooster and its alright but...............
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02-05-2009, 06:54 AM
| #12 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 239
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I'm very happy with the little 2/3a saddle pack type batterys, I got 9.6v ones on the axles. no need to go lipo unless you want more volts from a 3s
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02-05-2009, 08:47 AM
| #13 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Lightin' The Desert In
Posts: 272
| Quote:
Venom 3300 or Team Orion 1800 battery Nimh ( I'm runnin both of these on my AX10) Hitec Servo (I'm runnin the stock RTR steering servo) I've never really had to break in eleteric motors, when I first install them I make sure the gear mesh is even an not to tight an I take it easy on the motor till it gets wore in. My Novak 55 was making a really horrible cracking kinda saound when I put it in reverse, I tore the motor apart an looked through it an nothing was wrong (I've had to do this for like 4 times ina row) then I keep using reverse an, to me it seemed like it was wearing in the brushes an the rotor.. ever since I've had the motor in it stoped making the noise.. So it just seemed like the motor & brushes an stuff needed to be wore in. Battery set up, mhm, thats pretty much up to you, If your going to do a Novak 55 w/ Rooster crawler I'd use a 1800 mAh Nimh Team Orion. the battery lasts for me about 4 1/2 hours.. Plus I've got my gearing set low.. an I'm using the stock RTR esc. I'm not a person on brushless motors in crawlers, I've always used Brushed motors, I'm not a lipo person either.. I've heard very bad things about Lipo's blowing up an stuff so I refuse to use them... I hope this is some help for you..  | |
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02-05-2009, 09:13 AM
| #14 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Centered
Posts: 2,082
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All the horror stories that you mave have heard or read about Lipo's going up in flames are usualy caused by improper charging practices. If you use a quality Lipo specific charger and charge at a 1C rate (1x the mAH rating) you'll have no issues at all. Just like NiMH cells, there may always be the chance of a bad cell that could potentialy cause a problem, but for the most part Lipo's are just as safe as NiMH. Motor break in is subjective depending on the motor and manufacturer. The way I break mine in, is to mount them in an RPM Motor Work Station (also good for soldering up your leads)... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEW04&P=7 and just click up your transmitter's throttle trim in increments of 5 clicks or so. Let it run there for 1 to 2 minutes, let it cool briefly, and then click up another 5 or so beyond the last point. I do this until I reach about 75 to 80 percent of my throttle curve, and call it good. My humble suggestions... Speedo: Tekin FX-R (if you end up running a dig you may need a CC BEC) Motor: 45T or 55T Integy's are nice for low buck, but if you're looking for top notch, go visit Johns thread (Holmes Hobbies). Servo: Hi Tec 7955TG if you have the cash ($115.00) otherwise the 5645MG is nice at around $55.00 Cells (if you're sticking with NiMH) Elite 1500 mAH from TCS or check out Max Amps as well. I'd also suggest the Axial Low CG battery/servo plate since you're buying packs and a servo anyway |
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02-05-2009, 09:19 AM
| #15 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Centered
Posts: 2,082
| Quote:
 That can't be continuous driving...it's mathematically impossible for that mAH rating, even on a crawler.An 1800 mAH pack can sustain a 1.8 amp draw for one hour, so even if you're only drawing say 1 amp while you're crawling (which is really low) that's 1.8 hours of run time. Last edited by CreepyCrawl; 02-05-2009 at 09:38 AM. | |
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02-05-2009, 02:27 PM
| #16 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: north bend
Posts: 29
| right on
yeah after my drool session down at the shop yesterday over the guys comp display ax-10 that dosent even have a scratch on the bottom I seen he has the novak crawler esc coming in 1-2 days and he has a very wide range of full size servos all the way from 40.00 to 155.00 the nice jr 400oz ones so it will be intersting what I come up with
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02-05-2009, 02:29 PM
| #17 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: north bend
Posts: 29
| !
the only real brushed motor's he has are the 540 fireball crawlers and since there like 25 bucks each im assumeing there probly crap I will have to load up and go to covington hobbie shop they are huge my small town hobbie shop sometimes just dosent have what im looking for he dosent even carry tires, of any size
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02-05-2009, 10:52 PM
| #18 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Centered
Posts: 2,082
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You'll be happy with Hi Tec or JR servos they both make quality components. The JR's have a bit larger of a case than the Hi Tec's, if that matters to you or the build. And I wouldn't take advice from anyone who says they crawl, and then shows you an expensive rig with no scars on it... You don't learn unless you drive  | |
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02-05-2009, 11:38 PM
| #19 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Portland
Posts: 550
| Quote:
Um........ya no. I run a novak goat system and it has amazing control and GOBS of tourqe, yet its drivable. Just play with your min drive and drag break settings. | |
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02-06-2009, 12:57 PM
| #20 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: San Diego
Posts: 51
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I suggest: Tekin FXR 55t motor combo (100 bucks) A 1500 mAH 8-10 volts (I run 10) saddle pack to mount on the front axle (20-30 bucks) Hitec 7955 servo (120 bucks) Proline hammers... They come with memory foam (40 bucks for 4) Put some wheel weights in the wheels (I get mine for free) And you are good to go. |
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