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Thread: MY BASTARD jr. TUBER BUILD! PICS

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Old 04-01-2009, 11:49 AM   #1
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Default MY BASTARD jr. TUBER BUILD! PICS

Well I traded off the CDW chassis in favor of a Tuber of my own so I can play with the rest of the groups we get together with for the "Active Kids" program. I call it the CORA-CRAWLER. I had to make some custom front links and I'm still going to fab up a custom servo plate to position the links a little farther out to let the chassis fit between the links when it compresses. The rear links were already lengthend when I got the chassis but I will make some custom ones there as well. So far it seems as capable as the old chassis. I did make up some custom aluminum panels for the hood and the top. I really like how they came out but I think I'm going to make some others and drill some holes in them as well. The ESC mounts up nice under the back section, so I might make up some lexan panels for the rear sides and vent them. I tried to stay with a scaler look for it and keep it clean.
Oh yeah, check out my poor mans rear delrin bent links, I just pushed a clicker style pen body over the stockers. I used a bic pen and some plastic tubbing for the front steering link and servo link as well. Front links are delrin.
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Last edited by Krakker; 04-01-2009 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 04:08 PM   #2
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Default Drive Shafts

The stock AX10 shafts are not really up to the abuse of a heavy rig. I've got plenty of weight in the tires/wheels and it hooks up well enough to twist a stock shaft or break a stock tranny output. I'm upgrading to Traxxas shafts #4951X, and they are beefier than the Traxxas ones you can replace onto the stock AX10 yoke. Heres the difference.
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Last edited by Krakker; 04-09-2009 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:12 PM   #3
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Did some more work on the rig today. I copied the drive shaft Yoke mod that jason, did a while back using my Smithy 3in1. only I used a 7/16 drill bit instead of the 29/64 since it was a nice "almost" press fit. Here's the link that shows the details. Maxx Shafts made easy. Basically I cut the ears off the stock yoke and then drilled out the Traxxas yoke so that it fit over the top of the stocker. Now it's got some beefy drive shafts.
I also redid the links and pressed plain white pen bodies on the rear lowers and covered the rear uppers with some blue pen bodies. makes everything look beefy and slick.
Got the side panels done too, and slapped on an RCcrawler sticker on the hood skin.
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Last edited by Krakker; 04-02-2009 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:20 PM   #4
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I was checking out those drive shafts at the local shop, MAN those are FATTYS.
Nice looking panel work.
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:42 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Nor*CalDefender View Post
I was checking out those drive shafts at the local shop, MAN those are FATTYS.
Nice looking panel work.
Thanks, I'm currently making some new side panels out of a thicker slick vinal and I changed all the links to white and made a delrin skid for it today. Slides over rocks with ease now. (night and day diff) I'll get some pics up after I get some assembly done and put the Panthers and comp heavies back on it. This is by far my favorite rig to date. (as in time)
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:56 AM   #6
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Nice Rig!!!
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:30 AM   #7
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Default New updates.

Well I've been through about 3 different link setups now and I'm still working on the front uppers with an outboard setup but I'll have to fab up a front servo mount to get it to work right. I did get started on making some new panels out of some super slick vinal but the top will stay aluminum since it's a bit tippy. (still trying to dial it in but it's fun to play with) Not sure I'd ever compete with this rig so I'm just building it bash.
Made a cutting board skid for it and now it seems to slide MUCH better over obsticals now that the aluminum parts are gone. Here's some wheelin test pics.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:41 AM   #8
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Nice looking rig !

No comps in Nebraska ? seems like a lot of work and $$$ just to bash ?
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:43 PM   #9
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Nice looking rig !

No comps in Nebraska ? seems like a lot of work and $$$ just to bash ?
There's plenty of comps here, (like the Midwest 2.2 Challenge) but there's a GC-2 rig plenty capable of competing that my daughter runs. I'll hit some local stuff but this rig was purely for fun and to test jout what ever I can make for it.
Homemade skid and rear links are pretty well tuned in and the Maxx shafts are killer!
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:15 PM   #10
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wow that's a great looking build!
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Old 04-18-2009, 10:39 PM   #11
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Default Cool Tuber

NICE! Good looking rig! Just about finished with another v2.2 chassis that I'm going to put with my TLT axles. I'll post some pics soon.
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:41 PM   #12
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good looking rig!!

looks like what i will be building here soon, just ordered an edge chassis from TCS along with some panthers,and a 4 link plate. gonna swap all my ARTR gear over.

got a question about the shafts, so the maxx shafts go on top of the stock yokes on the axle or both ends? got another pic of the modified yoke?
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:46 PM   #13
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did the pen bodies need some lube to fit over or did it just slide on?
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
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did the pen bodies need some lube to fit over or did it just slide on?
they just slide on with alittle muscle for the bent links.
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:02 PM   #15
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nice build clean work
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Old 04-22-2009, 12:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt ellerbee View Post
good looking rig!!

looks like what i will be building here soon, just ordered an edge chassis from TCS along with some panthers,and a 4 link plate. gonna swap all my ARTR gear over.

got a question about the shafts, so the maxx shafts go on top of the stock yokes on the axle or both ends? got another pic of the modified yoke?
Yes, you have to drill out the Maxx yoke and cut the ears off the stock yole at the axle and the tranny. Look for the thread "Super Shafts". in here, I'm doing an over kill write up with pics.

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did the pen bodies need some lube to fit over or did it just slide on?
Elbo grease works OK, but I did have to file down the raised ends on the modified upper links. For the bottoms, just get them started and "POW" they're on.You can push them back off or slice'm if you ever want to change the color. I find my self looking at every place I go for free different colored pens now to do just that. The white ones are cheap at only 3-4 $'s for around 50 of'm and you can use the exacto to scrape the names of them with out digging into the pen body. (kinda like pealing a carrot)
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