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Thread: New 3racing High Clearance Knuckle.

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Old 06-02-2009, 12:28 PM   #41
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Those look cool. More belly clearence is always nice. espically for the diffs. More gear rudux = less strain on the axle shafts and diff. How much clearence do you gain with these. I'll need alum Cs with these. I like em.
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sangell View Post
On a Axial flip the rear axle over, shave the old mounting towers and make some type of new mount for the upper links. With the three different R&P that can be had mix and match to get the gearing right.
Stock gears - 39/13 = 3.00:1
High Speed - 36/16 = 2.25:1
Low Speed - 43/13 = 3.31:1
Portal - 16/10 = 1.6:1


Stock -> Portal = 4.8:1
Low -> Portal = 5.29:1
High -> Portal = 3.6:1


Looks like a set of high speed gears in the rear combined with these portal knuckles and a set of low gears in the front would work pretty well.

Front = 3.31:1
Rear = 3.60:1
The difference is about 8% with that setup. That is less of a difference than just swapping in either the High speed or Low speed gears sets in as Axial suggests. Looks like the only challenge is making new mounting locations.



Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhippie View Post
Just kinda think the clearance gain isn't worth the cog loss.
You just adjust your suspension so that you don't raise your COG. Essentially you are just moving your axle up and increasing the clearance under it. The only COG change is the axle assembly itself.
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:29 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley0706 View Post
Stock gears - 39/13 = 3.00:1
High Speed - 36/16 = 2.25:1
Low Speed - 43/13 = 3.31:1
Portal - 16/10 = 1.6:1


Stock -> Portal = 4.8:1
Low -> Portal = 5.29:1
High -> Portal = 3.6:1


Looks like a set of high speed gears in the rear combined with these portal knuckles and a set of low gears in the front would work pretty well.

Front = 3.31:1
Rear = 3.60:1
The difference is about 8% with that setup. That is less of a difference than just swapping in either the High speed or Low speed gears sets in as Axial suggests. Looks like the only challenge is making new mounting locations.

I like the way you think!!!! You would still have the link/shock mounts so the uppers are the only problem and Ive already made a top link mount that that bolts to the diff bolts, like the 3 link mount.

You just adjust your suspension so that you don't raise your COG. Essentially you are just moving your axle up and increasing the clearance under it. The only COG change is the axle assembly itself.
And that axle does have some real weight, maybe worth a try?????
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:49 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSRswapandslow View Post
be cooler if you could get a 1:1 for the front and the 1.6:1 for the rear. might could just swap out the big gear in the front, and run 2 little gears for 1:1 if they release spare parts.
If you put 2 small gears in the teeth wouldn't engage each other, there is no way to adjust the gear mesh so you are stuck with the gear ratio they come with.
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:55 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhippie View Post
And that axle does have some real weight, maybe worth a try?????
Yeah just making an upper link mount that comes up off of the screws around the diff would work well

yeah the axles does have some weight but I bet it isn't even 4 ounces and you are only raising it maybe 0.5". I think it would be worth it for sure!

Kind of a pricey project though when you have to buy two new ring gears and the knuckles plus a new upper link mount. Price of being cool though!
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:23 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley0706 View Post
Yeah just making an upper link mount that comes up off of the screws around the diff would work well

yeah the axles does have some weight but I bet it isn't even 4 ounces and you are only raising it maybe 0.5". I think it would be worth it for sure!

Kind of a pricey project though when you have to buy two new ring gears and the knuckles plus a new upper link mount. Price of being cool though!

What's couple hundred bucks too a cool guy like you? No big deal, right!
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:50 PM   #47
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Anyone running these? How about a vid?
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:01 PM   #48
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Yea vid already. Better yet, a video of a modified set running on a pair of bully axles! Heck yea!
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:20 AM   #49
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I'm thinking about getting these as well for the tuber I'm building from scratch.
These work out great because I plan on 4WS any way with a tall tire like the Rock Stomper or the Krawler tire, but the Krawlers are completely trash so I might have to go with the Stompers. Also machining my own length links so it'll be about 2-3" longer wheelbase than stock, I'll have to take pics and post em here. Whenever I get around to machining the links.
I think these portal walls can hang with the abuse.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:32 PM   #50
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Just got some of these in my hands today.

I must say that I am very impressed. The fit, finish and detail is excellent. Underneath the cover held down by the four factory loctite'd screws, the gears look to be hardened, well greased and mesh very well. There is almost no backlash between the two gears and hardly any endfloat on either of the shafts. The bushings are small but I'm thinking that bearings may not be able to handle the loads here anyway.

Between the drive cup and the smaller inner gear there is a tiny drive pin. This is what transmits drive from the cup to the gear, and just by looking at it, it looks too small. It is on the lesser-load side of the drive train though, and coupled with the tight tolerances between the gear and shaft, it may not be a problem as the only way to break the pin is to shear it cleanly off.

The clearance gained using these portals looks to be 10mm. Not sure of the extra width gained, but the measurement from centre of drive pin (where hex goes on) to centre of king pin screws is 21mm.

Not until I get home and can fit them up will I find out the actual width gained and ultimate strength!
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:13 AM   #51
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Im looking forward to what you find out when you get them installed!
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:28 AM   #52
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Put them on the front of my berg to test, had to set the rear to 80% throttle to get a similar wheel speed. Had to do a fair bit of fiddling with the hex to get them to fit with the berg offset eritex wheels. they do fit though, just. width went from 265mm out to 280mm. Probably would have only been a shade over 10mm wider if I didn't need to mod the hex.

The added ground clearance is incredible! makes the diff look like its a mile in the air! the added gear reduction is welcome too - as the clod stall wasn't as bad due to more torque. Also put it under some load, enough to stall out, I got one to squeak a little but so far they survived.

Will have to fit the back up and give it a full trial when I get the time.
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:27 AM   #53
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Crikey mate! I just put 3Racing knuckles on the front end and now these little beauties show up. I like the look of 'em, higher clearance, reduced torque twist, and only USD50 for a full set of four, which I think is great value. I suspect the use of bushings instead of bearings helps keep the price down.

Now if someone would please measure those bushings (I.D., O.D. and width) we may find it's possible to replace them with bearings if and when we choose to.

What's the 12 'O' rings for?

Cheers.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:27 PM   #54
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Wouldn't these really help with torque twist also? By gearing 1.6:1 at the wheel you would need to increase your driveshaft speed by 1.6 (22t pinion vs 14t stock) to keep the same wheelspeed. Putting the gearing in and on the axle should really cut down the chassis twist.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:33 PM   #55
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It should yes.

Interesting about the o-rings. It actually tells you to put them in the drive cup - berg style. But I didn't think the Axials required this. It could either be that the portal needs the them to help keep them in place? Or they actually designed them with bergs in mind?

Got clearance?

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Old 06-10-2009, 03:42 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LincolnBlack View Post
It should yes.

Interesting about the o-rings. It actually tells you to put them in the drive cup - berg style. But I didn't think the Axials required this. It could either be that the portal needs the them to help keep them in place? Or they actually designed them with bergs in mind?

Got clearance?

How much width did you gain?
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:44 PM   #57
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15mm. But I had to fiddle the hexes a couple of mm each side to clear the wheels, so an Axial or different wheels may only be 10-12mm (1/2")
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:15 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LincolnBlack View Post
15mm. But I had to fiddle the hexes a couple of mm each side to clear the wheels, so an Axial or different wheels may only be 10-12mm (1/2")
Where was the interference with the Berg wheels? They are what I am most interested in. 1/2" is pushing the width I would accept.
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:31 PM   #59
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The inner ring was rubbing on the chamfered part just above the 'gearbox'. Gearbox goes inside the wheel with about 1mm to spare. I was thinking of clearancing the knuckle, but shaving material off here would make it weaker for sure. Couterbored the screws and rejigged the hex for an extra 2mm instead.

The chamfered part on the top ear.

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Old 06-13-2009, 12:35 AM   #60
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Took a roll today.

Snapped the front servo horn and this:

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