06-02-2009, 12:28 PM | #41 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Behind the wheel
Posts: 1,107
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Those look cool. More belly clearence is always nice. espically for the diffs. More gear rudux = less strain on the axle shafts and diff. How much clearence do you gain with these. I'll need alum Cs with these. I like em. |
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06-02-2009, 01:02 PM | #42 | |
20K Club Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Posts: 22,981
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High Speed - 36/16 = 2.25:1 Low Speed - 43/13 = 3.31:1 Portal - 16/10 = 1.6:1 Stock -> Portal = 4.8:1 Low -> Portal = 5.29:1 High -> Portal = 3.6:1 Looks like a set of high speed gears in the rear combined with these portal knuckles and a set of low gears in the front would work pretty well. Front = 3.31:1 Rear = 3.60:1 The difference is about 8% with that setup. That is less of a difference than just swapping in either the High speed or Low speed gears sets in as Axial suggests. Looks like the only challenge is making new mounting locations. You just adjust your suspension so that you don't raise your COG. Essentially you are just moving your axle up and increasing the clearance under it. The only COG change is the axle assembly itself. | |
06-02-2009, 05:29 PM | #43 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento
Posts: 2,373
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06-02-2009, 05:49 PM | #44 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sandy,Oregon
Posts: 354
| If you put 2 small gears in the teeth wouldn't engage each other, there is no way to adjust the gear mesh so you are stuck with the gear ratio they come with.
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06-02-2009, 05:55 PM | #45 | |
20K Club Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Posts: 22,981
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yeah the axles does have some weight but I bet it isn't even 4 ounces and you are only raising it maybe 0.5". I think it would be worth it for sure! Kind of a pricey project though when you have to buy two new ring gears and the knuckles plus a new upper link mount. Price of being cool though! | |
06-02-2009, 06:23 PM | #46 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento
Posts: 2,373
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What's couple hundred bucks too a cool guy like you? No big deal, right! | |
06-02-2009, 08:50 PM | #47 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,144
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Anyone running these? How about a vid?
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06-02-2009, 09:01 PM | #48 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tucson
Posts: 625
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Yea vid already. Better yet, a video of a modified set running on a pair of bully axles! Heck yea!
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06-09-2009, 11:20 AM | #49 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Rosedale/Bakersfield
Posts: 34
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I'm thinking about getting these as well for the tuber I'm building from scratch. These work out great because I plan on 4WS any way with a tall tire like the Rock Stomper or the Krawler tire, but the Krawlers are completely trash so I might have to go with the Stompers. Also machining my own length links so it'll be about 2-3" longer wheelbase than stock, I'll have to take pics and post em here. Whenever I get around to machining the links. I think these portal walls can hang with the abuse. |
06-09-2009, 10:32 PM | #50 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 277
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Just got some of these in my hands today. I must say that I am very impressed. The fit, finish and detail is excellent. Underneath the cover held down by the four factory loctite'd screws, the gears look to be hardened, well greased and mesh very well. There is almost no backlash between the two gears and hardly any endfloat on either of the shafts. The bushings are small but I'm thinking that bearings may not be able to handle the loads here anyway. Between the drive cup and the smaller inner gear there is a tiny drive pin. This is what transmits drive from the cup to the gear, and just by looking at it, it looks too small. It is on the lesser-load side of the drive train though, and coupled with the tight tolerances between the gear and shaft, it may not be a problem as the only way to break the pin is to shear it cleanly off. The clearance gained using these portals looks to be 10mm. Not sure of the extra width gained, but the measurement from centre of drive pin (where hex goes on) to centre of king pin screws is 21mm. Not until I get home and can fit them up will I find out the actual width gained and ultimate strength! |
06-10-2009, 12:13 AM | #51 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 295
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Im looking forward to what you find out when you get them installed!
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06-10-2009, 06:28 AM | #52 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 277
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Put them on the front of my berg to test, had to set the rear to 80% throttle to get a similar wheel speed. Had to do a fair bit of fiddling with the hex to get them to fit with the berg offset eritex wheels. they do fit though, just. width went from 265mm out to 280mm. Probably would have only been a shade over 10mm wider if I didn't need to mod the hex. The added ground clearance is incredible! makes the diff look like its a mile in the air! the added gear reduction is welcome too - as the clod stall wasn't as bad due to more torque. Also put it under some load, enough to stall out, I got one to squeak a little but so far they survived. Will have to fit the back up and give it a full trial when I get the time. |
06-10-2009, 10:27 AM | #53 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Posts: 372
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Crikey mate! I just put 3Racing knuckles on the front end and now these little beauties show up. I like the look of 'em, higher clearance, reduced torque twist, and only USD50 for a full set of four, which I think is great value. I suspect the use of bushings instead of bearings helps keep the price down. Now if someone would please measure those bushings (I.D., O.D. and width) we may find it's possible to replace them with bearings if and when we choose to. What's the 12 'O' rings for? Cheers. |
06-10-2009, 03:27 PM | #54 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Casper, WY
Posts: 540
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Wouldn't these really help with torque twist also? By gearing 1.6:1 at the wheel you would need to increase your driveshaft speed by 1.6 (22t pinion vs 14t stock) to keep the same wheelspeed. Putting the gearing in and on the axle should really cut down the chassis twist.
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06-10-2009, 03:33 PM | #55 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 277
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It should yes. Interesting about the o-rings. It actually tells you to put them in the drive cup - berg style. But I didn't think the Axials required this. It could either be that the portal needs the them to help keep them in place? Or they actually designed them with bergs in mind? Got clearance? |
06-10-2009, 03:42 PM | #56 | |
20K Club Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Posts: 22,981
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06-10-2009, 03:44 PM | #57 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 277
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15mm. But I had to fiddle the hexes a couple of mm each side to clear the wheels, so an Axial or different wheels may only be 10-12mm (1/2")
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06-10-2009, 04:15 PM | #58 |
20K Club Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Posts: 22,981
| Where was the interference with the Berg wheels? They are what I am most interested in. 1/2" is pushing the width I would accept.
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06-10-2009, 04:31 PM | #59 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 277
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The inner ring was rubbing on the chamfered part just above the 'gearbox'. Gearbox goes inside the wheel with about 1mm to spare. I was thinking of clearancing the knuckle, but shaving material off here would make it weaker for sure. Couterbored the screws and rejigged the hex for an extra 2mm instead. The chamfered part on the top ear. |
06-13-2009, 12:35 AM | #60 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 277
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Took a roll today. Snapped the front servo horn and this: |
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