RCCrawler Forums

JeremyH · 06-13-2009, 12:42 AM

Mmm....yep. I wonder how difficult it will be to get a replacement part from 3R...

Ripperfi · 06-13-2009, 12:42 AM

Bummer.

LincolnBlack · 06-13-2009, 01:03 AM

Yep. I hope its not a case of buying another set for parts.

QIK-RX4 · 06-14-2009, 05:07 AM

Well I got mine the other day. Fitted em up, but I havent takin it out for a crawl as yet. I changed my 14T drive pinion to a 19T. Anyway, here are some pics.

Left side with new drives.

miller · 06-15-2009, 12:27 AM

Anyone have a set of these with a sandpaper board to do a torque twist test? I'd be real interested to see how much of a difference the gearing makes.

Run the board. Put these on AND step up the pinion, see if it'll do the same or better even with the higher cg..wont be a fair comparison but might show something.

oldhippie · 06-15-2009, 09:05 AM

[QUOTE=QIK-RX4;1844483]Well I got mine the other day. Fitted em up, but I havent takin it out for a crawl as yet. I changed my 14T drive pinion to a 19T.

Cool! Nice clearance, Now ya need to lower the chassis. Be waiting to hear how they hold up.

laalaa · 06-19-2009, 07:04 AM

We have now tested these portals on my axial and Samrock's axial.
I had them on about 20min and after that short test drive i removed them before anything got broken.

Here's some of my experiences:

Torque twist is opposite to normal setup, driver front is lifting and as my setup is for non-portals, driver front was lifting massive.

Drive axle (where the dog bone goes in) in portal is too short. Steering angle is way lower than original axial axles. 3 o-ring are needed to hold dog bone on correct position.
Anyway, Axial CVD's can be fixed to fit, one guy here in Finland has made it. Lathe and drilling is needed. 1.9 rim fits when some material was grinded away from top of portal box.

Plastic C-Hubs won't hold. First 2 was busted in 2 minutes.

Plastic axle tubes won't hold. My 20min test was enough to strip one of four alu c-hub screws. Unfortunately I didn't had video camera with me but whole axle tube was twisting about 10 degrees when tire get stuck to rock crack.

My experience is that these portals are great for scale rig or crawler w/metal axles.

Quality of these 3racing portals is great. they fit like a glove.

rockspider · 06-21-2009, 02:39 AM

These pics show what I think is the biggest issue with them, the drive cup is definitely too short compared to stock one, this makes for a very lousy steering angle, or otherwise the dogbone at full steer will completely miss the cup, leading to sure damage of the shaft.

See how the dogbone drive pin is completely outside from cup? Apply power in this situation and instantly you have a broken driveshaft, cup or axle case.

There's no easy solution without lathe and machining. Those drive cups inner shafts are reduced to 4mm, so it's not possible to just cut a stock drive cup, also because the stock axial ones have the pin hole that would fall just on the bushing area of the portals, destroing the bushings.

It's a real pity, how it's possible they messed up this way? Wonder if they really installed and tested one set before going for selling...

The shaft that LincolnBlack broke also is made wrong. They should have left a 4-5mm portion smooth, not threaded, close to the hexpin, to avoid that abrupt change of thickness to become the weakest point.

I think we all should claim 3Racing, those portals are defective the way they are now, so they shall make new better designed drive cups and outboard shafts and send them to people that bought their portals!

rockspider · 06-21-2009, 03:02 AM

Email sent to 3Racing, with link to this thread, asking for action.
Will keep you informed if they reply.

maddog · 06-23-2009, 08:20 PM

I also have a set of these which I fitted to my AX10 this week. Have only done one drive on them and they seem OK aside from some clicks and squeaks when a wheel is bound up. I'm a little paranoid about them after reading this thread though.

I only put 2 of the o-rings in each drive cup.

Kamikaze · 06-23-2009, 09:44 PM

Hmm, I fixed mine........

maddog · 06-23-2009, 09:57 PM

What'd you do?

RcBro · 06-23-2009, 11:36 PM

I believe these are made for CVD's not dogbones

Kamikaze · 06-23-2009, 11:59 PM

No, they are made for dogbones.

maddog · 06-24-2009, 12:04 AM

Is it a completely re manufactured unit, or did you make a replacement shaft/cup setup?

It's times like this I wish I still had access to a lathe

Kamikaze · 06-24-2009, 12:11 AM

I kept everything but the stock cup and stub.

maddog · 06-24-2009, 12:23 AM

Don't want to turn up a few more and post them to Aus do ya?

QIK-RX4 · 06-24-2009, 01:59 AM

Well I have run mine with them fitted. Even with the 19T pinion it ran just fine. But I dont use my truck for comps or anything. Its just a fun machine as its only ever myself and my wife. Dont know of any other people here in Townsville that have crawlers.

I have tried a few diffrent areas with the crawler and it hasnt broken anything. I have also got a wheel jammed and nothing gave way.

Some of you guys must drive bloody hard????

maddog · 06-24-2009, 06:06 AM

I was making some other changes on my rig and noticed I've cracked an inner C (factory plastic one) on the first drive after fitting the portals. Have ordered some alloy ones to replace them.

rockspider · 06-24-2009, 07:04 AM

To me, the cracked plastic stock "C" is due to the cup not engaged at full lock. It would leverage against the weaker part, and the plastic gives. With the alu "C probably it will survive for a while, but that's not the solution. The dogbone MUST drive the cup with both sides of pin engaged, not just one.

The last answer I got from 3Racing isn't clear, I asked them now if they REALLY want to sell all the in-stock items they have before producing the upgrade ones...

06-21-2009, 02:39 AM	#68
rockspider Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Italy Posts: 262	These pics show what I think is the biggest issue with them, the drive cup is definitely too short compared to stock one, this makes for a very lousy steering angle, or otherwise the dogbone at full steer will completely miss the cup, leading to sure damage of the shaft. See how the dogbone drive pin is completely outside from cup? Apply power in this situation and instantly you have a broken driveshaft, cup or axle case. There's no easy solution without lathe and machining. Those drive cups inner shafts are reduced to 4mm, so it's not possible to just cut a stock drive cup, also because the stock axial ones have the pin hole that would fall just on the bushing area of the portals, destroing the bushings. It's a real pity, how it's possible they messed up this way? Wonder if they really installed and tested one set before going for selling... The shaft that LincolnBlack broke also is made wrong. They should have left a 4-5mm portion smooth, not threaded, close to the hexpin, to avoid that abrupt change of thickness to become the weakest point. I think we all should claim 3Racing, those portals are defective the way they are now, so they shall make new better designed drive cups and outboard shafts and send them to people that bought their portals! Last edited by rockspider; 06-21-2009 at 02:41 AM.

06-13-2009, 12:42 AM	#61
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Mmm....yep. I wonder how difficult it will be to get a replacement part from 3R...

06-13-2009, 12:42 AM	#62
Ripperfi Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Tucson Posts: 625	Bummer.

06-13-2009, 01:03 AM	#63
LincolnBlack Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia Posts: 277	Yep. I hope its not a case of buying another set for parts.

06-14-2009, 05:07 AM	#64
QIK-RX4 Newbie Join Date: May 2009 Location: Australia, Townsville Posts: 29	Well I got mine the other day. Fitted em up, but I havent takin it out for a crawl as yet. I changed my 14T drive pinion to a 19T. Anyway, here are some pics. Left side with new drives.

06-15-2009, 12:27 AM	#65
miller Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: North Vancouver Posts: 524	Anyone have a set of these with a sandpaper board to do a torque twist test? I'd be real interested to see how much of a difference the gearing makes. Run the board. Put these on AND step up the pinion, see if it'll do the same or better even with the higher cg..wont be a fair comparison but might show something.

06-15-2009, 09:05 AM	#66
oldhippie I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento Posts: 2,373	[QUOTE=QIK-RX4;1844483]Well I got mine the other day. Fitted em up, but I havent takin it out for a crawl as yet. I changed my 14T drive pinion to a 19T. Cool! Nice clearance, Now ya need to lower the chassis. Be waiting to hear how they hold up.

06-19-2009, 07:04 AM	#67
laalaa Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Finland Posts: 133	We have now tested these portals on my axial and Samrock's axial. I had them on about 20min and after that short test drive i removed them before anything got broken. Here's some of my experiences: Torque twist is opposite to normal setup, driver front is lifting and as my setup is for non-portals, driver front was lifting massive. Drive axle (where the dog bone goes in) in portal is too short. Steering angle is way lower than original axial axles. 3 o-ring are needed to hold dog bone on correct position. Anyway, Axial CVD's can be fixed to fit, one guy here in Finland has made it. Lathe and drilling is needed. 1.9 rim fits when some material was grinded away from top of portal box. Plastic C-Hubs won't hold. First 2 was busted in 2 minutes. Plastic axle tubes won't hold. My 20min test was enough to strip one of four alu c-hub screws. Unfortunately I didn't had video camera with me but whole axle tube was twisting about 10 degrees when tire get stuck to rock crack. My experience is that these portals are great for scale rig or crawler w/metal axles. Quality of these 3racing portals is great. they fit like a glove.

06-21-2009, 03:02 AM	#69
rockspider Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Italy Posts: 262	Email sent to 3Racing, with link to this thread, asking for action. Will keep you informed if they reply.

06-23-2009, 08:20 PM	#70
maddog Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 14	I also have a set of these which I fitted to my AX10 this week. Have only done one drive on them and they seem OK aside from some clicks and squeaks when a wheel is bound up. I'm a little paranoid about them after reading this thread though. I only put 2 of the o-rings in each drive cup.

06-23-2009, 09:44 PM	#71
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	Hmm, I fixed mine........

Sponsored Links

06-23-2009, 09:57 PM	#72
maddog Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 14	What'd you do?

06-23-2009, 11:36 PM	#73
RcBro RcBros Hobbies Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 4,646	I believe these are made for CVD's not dogbones

06-23-2009, 11:59 PM	#74
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	No, they are made for dogbones.

06-24-2009, 12:04 AM	#75
maddog Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 14	Is it a completely re manufactured unit, or did you make a replacement shaft/cup setup? It's times like this I wish I still had access to a lathe

06-24-2009, 12:11 AM	#76
Kamikaze I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Columbia TN Posts: 6,154	I kept everything but the stock cup and stub.

06-24-2009, 12:23 AM	#77
maddog Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 14	Don't want to turn up a few more and post them to Aus do ya?

06-24-2009, 01:59 AM	#78
QIK-RX4 Newbie Join Date: May 2009 Location: Australia, Townsville Posts: 29	Well I have run mine with them fitted. Even with the 19T pinion it ran just fine. But I dont use my truck for comps or anything. Its just a fun machine as its only ever myself and my wife. Dont know of any other people here in Townsville that have crawlers. I have tried a few diffrent areas with the crawler and it hasnt broken anything. I have also got a wheel jammed and nothing gave way. Some of you guys must drive bloody hard????

06-24-2009, 06:06 AM	#79
maddog Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 14	I was making some other changes on my rig and noticed I've cracked an inner C (factory plastic one) on the first drive after fitting the portals. Have ordered some alloy ones to replace them.

06-24-2009, 07:04 AM	#80
rockspider Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Italy Posts: 262	To me, the cracked plastic stock "C" is due to the cup not engaged at full lock. It would leverage against the weaker part, and the plastic gives. With the alu "C probably it will survive for a while, but that's not the solution. The dogbone MUST drive the cup with both sides of pin engaged, not just one. The last answer I got from 3Racing isn't clear, I asked them now if they REALLY want to sell all the in-stock items they have before producing the upgrade ones...

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: New 3racing High Clearance Knuckle.