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Thread: New 3racing High Clearance Knuckle.

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Old 06-24-2009, 07:52 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockspider View Post
The last answer I got from 3Racing isn't clear, I asked them now if they REALLY want to sell all the in-stock items they have before producing the upgrade ones...
I sure hope this isn't what they choose to do...
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Old 06-24-2009, 04:59 PM   #82
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Even if they can provide replacement shaft/cup units that we can swap out for the original ones, that would be a good solution. I'd be happy to pay a couple of bucks for each replacement shaft to get it sorted.

I keep forgetting to check how well my dogbone i engaging in the cup at full lock, but I'll try to remember to check tonight. I'm assuming it will be the same as the one pictured here.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:56 PM   #83
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I am going to try turning down a set of axial stubs to 4mm like Kamikaze did with his CVD's. Then the other end, the "stub" of the portal, should be easy to replace if it snaps, you could either make one yourseld out of 5mm chromoly rod, or take some tranny spur shafts and cut them to fit. At least those are my ideas so far.

But honestly, one of our awesome vendors should be able to come up with the same idea but with much more precise execution. There are plenty of 5mm pinions to choose from to make one up.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:16 PM   #84
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By the looks of it, a Wheely King stub axle will work perfectly. I've got some ready to mod, just need the time to do so.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:56 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by 4xFord View Post
I am going to try turning down a set of axial stubs to 4mm like Kamikaze did with his CVD's.

I measured the axial ones and the hole for the cross pin is where the hole for the cross pin in the gear needs to go, so axials wont work. I never said I used axial cvd's............
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:18 PM   #86
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Sounds like they did not do enough testing before selling this set up, would be just some thing else to break on comp day
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:25 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze View Post
I measured the axial ones and the hole for the cross pin is where the hole for the cross pin in the gear needs to go, so axials wont work. I never said I used axial cvd's............

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xFord View Post
I am going to try turning down a set of axial stubs to 4mm like Kamikaze did with his CVD's.
I know you be runnin your own CVD's! Now hurry up and get them to the market!

So why is the hole being in the same place an issue? I know the hole in for the hex's cross pin is larger in diameter but the other pin should still hold alright? I guess I can test it and find out the hard way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LincolnBlack View Post
By the looks of it, a Wheely King stub axle will work perfectly. I've got some ready to mod, just need the time to do so.
Hmm, I've got some of those here also, time to start measuring.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:09 AM   #88
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I know you be runnin your own CVD's! Now hurry up and get them to the market!
I didn't make these............
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:45 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LincolnBlack View Post
Took a roll today.

Snapped the front servo horn and this:

Mine broke in EXACTLY the same place!

Fixed it today with a Steel version of this:


A rear wheel axle from a Tamiya M03 M-Chassis car. Make sure you get the steel version, and not the aluminum one in the picture.

The shaft is 5mm diameter, so just grind down the flange to 5mm, then use your broken stub as a jig to drill the rear 2mm hole for the gear cross pin. The shaft is the exact same length after grinding down the flange. Makes for a quick fix.

Steve.
KL, Malaysia

Last edited by volvoc304; 06-27-2009 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:43 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvoc304 View Post
Mine broke in EXACTLY the same place!

Fixed it today with a Steel version of this:


A rear wheel axle from a Tamiya M03 M-Chassis car. Make sure you get the steel version, and not the aluminum one in the picture.

The shaft is 5mm diameter, so just grind down the flange to 5mm, then use your broken stub as a jig to drill the rear 2mm hole for the gear cross pin. The shaft is the exact same length after grinding down the flange. Makes for a quick fix.

Steve.
KL, Malaysia
Thanks for sharing the spare parts idea. Now I need to talk to a machine shop about turning down some stubs to 4mm that will work in these damn things.
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:05 PM   #91
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I believe I've fixed the problem with the dogbone disengaging from the cup. I ground a little over 1mm off the inside of the alloy C, then filed a little off the end of the diff housing. This results in the C pushing further onto the diff, meaning the input cup on the portal is now closer to the end of the axle and engages further. I had to take one of the o-rings out, so it only runs 2 now.

Just be careful you don't file too much off your diff end, as the wheel bearing still needs to fit in the end there.
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:53 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog View Post
I believe I've fixed the problem with the dogbone disengaging from the cup. I ground a little over 1mm off the inside of the alloy C, then filed a little off the end of the diff housing. This results in the C pushing further onto the diff, meaning the input cup on the portal is now closer to the end of the axle and engages further. I had to take one of the o-rings out, so it only runs 2 now.

Just be careful you don't file too much off your diff end, as the wheel bearing still needs to fit in the end there.
Got any pic's?
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:10 PM   #93
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I only did one diff and didn't take pictures.. I'll do the other diff some time this week and get some photos of it.
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:54 AM   #94
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Guess what broke this time :-x:



The gear broke in half right across the indents for the cross pin. Any other part, and I could have made a replacement, but this?!!!

Where the heck am I gonna get this gear? Oh yeah... 3 Racing... right

I'll email them with the pic. I'll let you guys know if they reply.

UPDATE 1: I emailed and attached the above pic to them after midnight and they promptly replied at 11am today. They attached a pic of the part ( 10T Module 0.8 Gear ) and asked me to confirm that it is the broken part. I replied affirmative, and asked how I could get 2 pieces; one for immediate replacement and one as a spare.

UPDATE 2: I got a reply from 3Racing on the 16th of July:
Dear Steven,
The part no. of gear #CR01-26/RG .The parts are coming soon. Please keep our website to get the news.


At least we know that there will be parts available!

UPDATE 3 :

29-July-2009
Dear Steven,
We would like to inform you that #CR01-26/RG are instock now.

Last edited by volvoc304; 07-30-2009 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:40 AM   #95
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Mine are still going strong. I havent had any problems at all.

But its good to know I can get spares if needed.
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Old 08-31-2009, 02:29 AM   #96
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has anyone managed to buy replacement cups that are deeper yet?

despite moving mine in a couple of mm the dogbone managed to disengage enough to damage the thread on the diff that the inner C screws to. I've ordered an alloy diff housing to replace it, but I'm sure the dogbone will just tear the cup apart once the C doesn't move.
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:30 PM   #97
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So how are these holding up? Anyone else breaking the gears inside? Have they fixed the cup problem?

Last edited by SDheavymetal; 11-21-2009 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:37 PM   #98
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I may have to get that for my current project. 2.2 pimcane clod with quicksand mini kit. It should awesome.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:04 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDheavymetal View Post
Anyone breaking the gears inside?


errr look about 3 posts up from your comment
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:52 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimate_monkey View Post
errr look about 3 posts up from your comment
anyone else breaking gears!
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