RCCrawler Forums

Jeep-Power · 06-10-2009, 09:03 AM

Hello folks-

I've done a bit of searching and haven't hit too much concrete info on axle shaft options for Axial front/steering axles.

First-off-- It seems to me that a significant number of folks here tend to confuse the term 'driveshaft' and 'axleshaft', which may be why I can't get a solid answer to my searching

. For clarification sake: 'driveshaft' (AKA: "propeller shaft") provides drive from the transmission/transferercase, to an axle or other gearbox. A 'axleshaft' provides drive from the differential/locker to the wheel assembly (rim & tire).

I just upgraded my front (steering) axle with aluminum inner C's (Venom) and hi-steer outers (CKRC). This new setup is great, as it now allows the steering to turn until the inner axle shaft jams into the outer stub axle cup. Basically the steering is now limited by the axle joint, which is fine. However, when at the max angle, the joint is less than smooth and it causes alot of radial 'wobble'. This 'wobble' jacks the entire knuckle assembly around and plays havoc on the nice-n-tight fit of the aluminum inner c's, and their two little into-plastic screws. In an attempt to save the integrity of the outer knuckles, I chose to back off the steering angle a bit...

I have the smooth-as-hell-at-any-angle MIP driveshafts. They certainly make the antiquated dogbone setup look bad, as they are silky smooth at any angle. Is MIP making front axleshafts for the Axial steering axle? The closest thing I have seen to the MIP joints are the Axial 'Universal Joint' axle shafts. Are these as smooth as an MIP driveshaft? Are there any other manufacturer options for the Axial steering axle?

thanks!

`

Jeep-Power · 06-10-2009, 09:13 AM

a quick search on ebay turned up these MIP's...

3Racing Swing Shafts?? I've heard bad things about this company's stuff..

The Axial shafts.

Jeep-Power · 06-10-2009, 09:50 AM

Google search turned up this thread .

Sounds like the Axials are the way to go.

What's it called when a person responds to their own thread???

gunnar · 06-10-2009, 09:53 AM

If you're just playing around, CVD's are fine, and give great steering angle. Once you start really bashing, binding, or generally putting alot of force on the axles, they break, usually at the pin fitted into the cup, or the whole ball shatters. There are many threads discussing this, as well as modding stock axle cups for more steering angle, thus keeping the axle strong. Below is a new MIP that took me 30 seconds to break:

Actually, I have been running 3 Racing shafts for a while now, they break, but they last alot longer than 30 seconds. At least the 3 Racing and Axial have the ring that contains the broken pin and helps prevent damage to the C's

MtnBkr · 06-10-2009, 10:33 AM

Unless you're only running a 55t on a 6 cell battery, CVD's are a waste of time & money.

Read this thread:

CVD Fix ? Check it out!

Modifying your stock dogbones is free and you'll be a lot happier in the long run.

If you're not convinced, PM me and I'll sell you my Axial CVD shafts cheap!

Jeep-Power · 06-10-2009, 10:33 AM

EDIT-- MtnBkr, you beat me to it!

Thanks for the tip-

here's a few links on modifying the dogbone style setups:

#1

#2

I have a metal lathe-- I'm going to try that mod. I'm surprised it will machine. The stub axle cups that I've worked with (RC-10) were hard as hell!

gunnar · 06-10-2009, 11:01 AM

You can use a lathe if you want, I just got a 90 degree countersink bit from home depot, put the stub in a vice, hogged out the cup, and cleaned up the edges. Don't go too far if you are going to thin the cup down, it's best to keep both sides of the pin in the slot. The dogbone will torque out of the cup if the pin leaves the slot.

MtnBkr · 06-10-2009, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunnar

You can use a lathe if you want, I just got a 90 degree countersink bit from home depot, put the stub in a vice, hogged out the cup, and cleaned up the edges. Don't go too far if you are going to thin the cup down, it's best to keep both sides of the pin in the slot. The dogbone will torque out of the cup if the pin leaves the slot.

A countersink is a great idea! All these darn guys that have lathes. I just used my dremel but a countersink would be a lot more uniform. Good idea!

JeremyH · 06-10-2009, 02:58 PM

Well, most folks in RC call them driveshafts because they dont run vehicles that have a central transmission/motor. I started in 1:1 crawling, so, in my opinion, the driveshafts and axleshafts are as you described them.

I have been running the Axial CVDs for a while in my comp crawler and I cant keep from breaking the pins. I break at least one on every outing. If you are planning on running the Axial CVDs, then you'd better stock up on 1.5mmX11mm dowel pins. Since the rebuild kit from Axial costs ~$7 and you only end up with two pins, I chose to pick up a packet from McMaster Carr for ~$9 for 100 count. Here's the part:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91585a011/=29decw

You'll have to shave ~1mm off the end, but it'll save you some money if you are prone to breaking these pins.

BTW, I break these just as fast as I break the Axial pins...

06-10-2009, 09:53 AM	#4
gunnar Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA. Posts: 2,242	If you're just playing around, CVD's are fine, and give great steering angle. Once you start really bashing, binding, or generally putting alot of force on the axles, they break, usually at the pin fitted into the cup, or the whole ball shatters. There are many threads discussing this, as well as modding stock axle cups for more steering angle, thus keeping the axle strong. Below is a new MIP that took me 30 seconds to break: Actually, I have been running 3 Racing shafts for a while now, they break, but they last alot longer than 30 seconds. At least the 3 Racing and Axial have the ring that contains the broken pin and helps prevent damage to the C's Last edited by gunnar; 06-10-2009 at 10:14 AM.

06-10-2009, 09:03 AM	#1
Jeep-Power Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Fort Mill, SC Posts: 349	AX 10 front axle shafts options, please! Hello folks- I've done a bit of searching and haven't hit too much concrete info on axle shaft options for Axial front/steering axles. First-off-- It seems to me that a significant number of folks here tend to confuse the term 'driveshaft' and 'axleshaft', which may be why I can't get a solid answer to my searching . For clarification sake: 'driveshaft' (AKA: "propeller shaft") provides drive from the transmission/transferercase, to an axle or other gearbox. A 'axleshaft' provides drive from the differential/locker to the wheel assembly (rim & tire). I just upgraded my front (steering) axle with aluminum inner C's (Venom) and hi-steer outers (CKRC). This new setup is great, as it now allows the steering to turn until the inner axle shaft jams into the outer stub axle cup. Basically the steering is now limited by the axle joint, which is fine. However, when at the max angle, the joint is less than smooth and it causes alot of radial 'wobble'. This 'wobble' jacks the entire knuckle assembly around and plays havoc on the nice-n-tight fit of the aluminum inner c's, and their two little into-plastic screws. In an attempt to save the integrity of the outer knuckles, I chose to back off the steering angle a bit... I have the smooth-as-hell-at-any-angle MIP driveshafts. They certainly make the antiquated dogbone setup look bad, as they are silky smooth at any angle. Is MIP making front axleshafts for the Axial steering axle? The closest thing I have seen to the MIP joints are the Axial 'Universal Joint' axle shafts. Are these as smooth as an MIP driveshaft? Are there any other manufacturer options for the Axial steering axle? thanks! `

06-10-2009, 09:13 AM	#2
Jeep-Power Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Fort Mill, SC Posts: 349	a quick search on ebay turned up these MIP's... 3Racing Swing Shafts?? I've heard bad things about this company's stuff.. The Axial shafts. Last edited by Jeep-Power; 06-10-2009 at 10:03 AM.

06-10-2009, 09:50 AM	#3
Jeep-Power Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Fort Mill, SC Posts: 349	Google search turned up this thread . Sounds like the Axials are the way to go. What's it called when a person responds to their own thread???

06-10-2009, 10:33 AM	#5
MtnBkr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Morrison Crawlerado Posts: 353	Unless you're only running a 55t on a 6 cell battery, CVD's are a waste of time & money. Read this thread: CVD Fix ? Check it out! Modifying your stock dogbones is free and you'll be a lot happier in the long run. If you're not convinced, PM me and I'll sell you my Axial CVD shafts cheap!

06-10-2009, 11:01 AM	#7
gunnar Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA. Posts: 2,242	You can use a lathe if you want, I just got a 90 degree countersink bit from home depot, put the stub in a vice, hogged out the cup, and cleaned up the edges. Don't go too far if you are going to thin the cup down, it's best to keep both sides of the pin in the slot. The dogbone will torque out of the cup if the pin leaves the slot.

06-10-2009, 02:58 PM	#9
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Well, most folks in RC call them driveshafts because they dont run vehicles that have a central transmission/motor. I started in 1:1 crawling, so, in my opinion, the driveshafts and axleshafts are as you described them. I have been running the Axial CVDs for a while in my comp crawler and I cant keep from breaking the pins. I break at least one on every outing. If you are planning on running the Axial CVDs, then you'd better stock up on 1.5mmX11mm dowel pins. Since the rebuild kit from Axial costs ~$7 and you only end up with two pins, I chose to pick up a packet from McMaster Carr for ~$9 for 100 count. Here's the part: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91585a011/=29decw You'll have to shave ~1mm off the end, but it'll save you some money if you are prone to breaking these pins. BTW, I break these just as fast as I break the Axial pins...

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