| | #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mesquite
Posts: 75
| I have the RTC AX10 and I can't leave well enough alone so the mods are starting soon so here goes. 1) It looks to me like if I run the bent links is leaves the drive shafts exposed more, wouldn't it be better to use strait links? 2) What is the advantage of longer upper links like on the CKRC build? 3) I want to get a dig, thinking about the RC4WD R2 trans or one of the addons, which is better or will I really notice a difference? Thinking about getting the derlin skid plate from CKRC since it already has mouns for both transmissions and the cutout for the lower links, should I get something else? 4) My steering catches on, it seems, everything so I want to change it, is the BTA really needed or is one of the high steer kits enough? 5) Is the Hitec 645MG enough servo for steering? Still using stock but the 645MG is pretty cheap if enough. What should I do first? I am thinking steering with stronger servo as that is what seems to cause the most trouble for me. So far I have moved the stock links inside the chassis like the CKRC build in tech section. I never noticed how much they caught on things until I moved them. I also moved the upper liks to the forward hole in the chassis and added a spacer and longer screw where it goes to the axle. Sorry for being so longwinded but I am new to crawlers and don't want to do everyting by trial and error spending a fortune. Thanks for any help. |
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| | #2 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mesquite
Posts: 75
| Forgot to metion that I also added 4oz to each front wheel and drilled 2 1/16 holes in all 4 wheels. Huge improvment. |
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| | #3 |
| Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Viroqua
Posts: 747
| 1. Go with bend links. If you don't stratch it, then you're not crawling hard enough. 2. By using longer link on top, you putting less stress on the yolks via clocking the axles. 3. Dna dig is the "now fad" among crawlers. It's solid,compact, fits perfect onto axial tranny, replaceable parts available, and most importantly, it realiable. (Just cut rear shaft about 1/2 inch off.) 4. Persoanl preference here. I use the jetboat bta. Works like charm. 5. 645MG is more than enough. I used it on all my ax-10s. They can last years if set up properly. By trying trial and error is the half of the fun in crawling. I spend more time tinkering on my crawlers than actually driving them. Dosn't everybody? LOL |
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| | #4 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Portland,OR
Posts: 867
| Straight linksin front and bent in back on the stock chassis. The longer you can get the upers the better. longer uppers decrease torque twist and axle steer, a 645 is barely enough to crawl with in comps. I bought one and now it's a winch. 7955 or bigger. DNA dig with steel internals is tops or the new eritex unit. BTA is personal choice though it leaves limited adjustability of the uppers due to the tie rod going under them. and also, trial and error is what this hobby is about.That's why stock box crawlers leave much to be desired, encoutraging creativity. IF it weren't then WalMart would start carrying Axial stuff and everyone would have the same ride.. Half the fun and learning is seeing the results of small changes to your rig. Have fun! |
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