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02-04-2010, 01:23 PM
| #21 |
| No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
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I LIKE IT!!!! Watching this one  (I like it when I'm the first post on a page too!!) |
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02-04-2010, 01:28 PM
| #22 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: .
Posts: 7,967
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I do the cad drawings at a shop with a cnc laser that would be perfect for making a custom chassis, maybe I'll give it a shot.  |
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02-04-2010, 01:33 PM
| #23 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: minnesota
Posts: 689
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lookin real good. a good reason to buy some tools that I don't have yet...
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02-04-2010, 03:32 PM
| #24 |
| Newbie Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Denver
Posts: 4
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Very Nice, I'll Be Following Along.
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02-04-2010, 04:28 PM
| #25 |
| Suck it up!   Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Now we're ready to make side #2. Take the first plate, lay in on your material, and drill a hole at one end using the 3/32 bit. Once that is done, take a 3mm tap and thread the hole. If you don't have a tap, a nut and bolt will work just as well. Either way is fine.  Take a 3mm bolt and bolt the two peices together. Repeat the process for the other end of the chassis.  Using the scribe, mark around the outside edge and remove plate #1. Grab the marker and color in and around the line. Reattach plate #1.  Rescribe the countour, and mark the inside as well. You can also drill all the holes if you want. Remove #1 again and you've got your pattern for #2.  Once you get it cut out, bolt the two together again put them in the vice. Use the files and dremel to bring #2 down to the same size and shape as #1.  Once thats done you can drill all your holes to 1/8", clean everything up, and blammo! You've got chassis plates!  Now, if all you wanted to do was make some plates, you're done. However, I'm going to go a bit further and make a skid, roof, and side panels, as well as a link or two just so some of you can see how to do it yourself. Stay tuned.  |
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02-04-2010, 04:43 PM
| #26 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Wells VT.
Posts: 311
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Excellent job Duuuuuuude I really like the organic lines, top shelf.
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02-04-2010, 05:28 PM
| #27 |
| Rock Crawler  Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maple Ridge, BC, CANADA
Posts: 592
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hurry up and get together.....i want to see whats its going to look like with links and shit on it! |
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02-04-2010, 06:28 PM
| #28 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Lost in what was America
Posts: 111
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way more patience than I have. But I love the look of it! If you decide to part with it let me know!
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02-04-2010, 07:38 PM
| #29 | |||
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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02-04-2010, 07:47 PM
| #30 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: napoleon
Posts: 81
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i like this build
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02-04-2010, 07:48 PM
| #31 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 465
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looking very good Duuuuuuuuuude keep it up |
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02-04-2010, 07:49 PM
| #32 |
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Here's a quick tutorial on drilling and tapping rods for links, supports, whatever. I'm using 1/4" aluminum rod for the side supports on this build. I measured out how wide I needed to cut them, and used my calipers to make my cut lines. Its the same process as I used to mark the holes in the chassis. You don't have to use much pressure to make the mark, just enough so that its visible.  Mark, then cut, then mark, then cut. You'll have a better chance of them being close to even if you do it one at a time. If they aren't even, file them down.  Now for the tricky part. Like I said, I've grown to have a pretty good eye for center, so I don't use a jig or guide. Place the rod in the vice, mark the center of the rod, drill down about an inch or so, and tap. Be especially sure to keep your tools lubricated as you will be drilling pretty deep, and its easy to get enough chips stuck to the bit to jam it up and either get it stuck or snap it off. Once you are done, turn the rod upside down and give it a few taps to knock the burrs and chips out.  And that is how you do it. Easy peasy. If you don't have a calibrated eyeball, there are some guides available that will get them perfect everytime. You can get them from a vendor here for a very reasonable price, especially if you are going to do a scratch build or ten. http://206.180.232.134/forum/showthread.php?t=150200 edit: a couple things on drilling and tapping. Do not force either tool as you are using it. If its sharp (as it should be) it will cut all by itself. All you are there to do is guide it and apply a little bit of pressure to keep it moving. You CAN put the tap in a drill...you do not always have to do it by hand. I prefer a cordless drill with a brake for this. When I want the bit or tap to stop, it needs to stop, not slowly wind down. If you try to use a big electric drill you will most likely break bits and taps and ruin lots of parts. And as always, lube, lube, lube. Once a tap starts cutting, it will pull itself into the hole. If you try to force it you'll either get it stuck and break it off, or end up with some really nasty looking threads. Last edited by Duuuuuuuude; 02-05-2010 at 09:58 PM. |
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02-04-2010, 08:03 PM
| #33 |
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Time to get bent! I kinda goofed and got ahead of myself earlier. I didn't want to drill the holes untill I had the chassis tweaked around like I wanted it, but I did anyway. So, I had to be careful that it didn't bend at a hole and not where I wanted it. Luckily, it worked out. I didn't have any real plan of attack here...just found a couple of good places to bend it and went to work. I use a couple of peices of thin aluminum angle to cover the jaws of the vice to give it a nice clean edge to bend on. A chunk of hardwood and a plastic mallet helps to persuade it.  It was all done by the seat of my pants...I just kept bending untill it looked good. That will come back to bite me in the ass later.  So I've got my chassis bent, and I've got my side supports ready to go...its finally time for some assembly! Woot! Going through my bolt collection I found that I am woefully short on 3mm flat and socket heads, but had a whole box of new #4's, so thats what I'm going to use. I countersunk the chassis for the bolts and put 'er together. It now measures 3.8" tall, 3" wide, and just a hair over 8" long. Perfect! BAM!  POW!  KACHOW!  SHAZAM!  Last edited by Duuuuuuuude; 02-04-2010 at 08:07 PM. |
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02-04-2010, 08:21 PM
| #34 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 465
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bad ass duuuuude but what about the skid? |
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02-04-2010, 08:22 PM
| #35 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 465
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how deep did you drill the holes?
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02-04-2010, 08:24 PM
| #36 | |
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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02-04-2010, 08:27 PM
| #37 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tehachapi, Ca
Posts: 465
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cool now you got me looking at buying some tools a little band saw and drill press  |
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02-04-2010, 09:12 PM
| #38 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: siloam springs, home of the Mid West Challenge 2010
Posts: 415
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Thats the one I want. I want to do a AX10 bodiless build.
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02-04-2010, 09:42 PM
| #39 | |||
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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02-04-2010, 09:57 PM
| #40 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Florida
Posts: 527
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Nice job |
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Linear Mode
