New Battery /servo Mount

[Kanine38]

I saw something like this being done but I can't seem to find it now...

I'm having some clearance issues... If the suspension unloads, the upper links hit the bottom of the tray. If I raise it up, the battery won't fit the below the brace. If I remove the front brace how much will that impact the rigitity of the chassis?

I could use some help here.

[Kanine38]

Pics with battery mock up.

[indiana mudcat]

If you could bolt a servo on wouldn't the tires hit it as soon as they turned? You could go 4 link and mount the links toward the outside of the tray, drop the tray down and drop the servo until it touches the axle, IF the tire doesn't get into the servo.

[Kanine38]

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

If you could bolt a servo on wouldn't the tires hit it as soon as they turned? You could go 4 link and mount the links toward the outside of the tray, drop the tray down and drop the servo until it touches the axle, IF the tire doesn't get into the servo.

I mocked up the servo, and it clears. My big issue is the lower links hitting the bottom of the tray. I think the brace needs to go and re position the tray so the motor end of it is higher...? I hope it will give the links more clearance. I may also swap of my axial shocks for some bog bores that I have. That may give me less travel which isn't always a bad thing.

[Kanine38]

I put in the servo just to get some other ideas.

I'm not sure where to go with this.

[PsychoCrawler]

That looks like a good idea but from the pictures I can't see any way to get everything to clear; it's either gonna hit the links or the chassis brace.

Have you considered cutting that stick pack apart and resoldering it to make a split pack to go down on the axle? Or if you really want your servo mounted in that position you could rearrange the pack in any configuration that fits around it.

[Terranaut]

Not to discourage you, but that battery seems to be forcing you in all the wrong directions. Your mounting tray looks to made of steel? And you have raised both the battery and the servo quite high above the axle. These things, heavy objects high up, are bad news for your C of G.

The links will always cause the axle to rotate when flexing, this helps keep the pinion pointing toward the tranny but it will push your tray down onto the upper links, or up against that chassis crossmember too. You would need almost parallel and equal length upper and lower links to (maybe) avoid that, and it still leaves your battery and servo quite high.

Do you have the budget to go to a small LiPo battery? Or do you have the wherewithall to modify that stick pack to make saddle packs? Either of these will make it very much easier for you. You could mount the servo on the stock tray and put saddle packs either side of it, or a LiPo on top of it. Or you could make a new tray with the servo off to one side and the battery beside it, just above the axle pumpkin.

Another way is to mount that stick pack battery on the outside of the chassis just below the body posts. I used to mount a biggish 2C LiPo like that, with a bit of hard plastic wrapped around it for protection. Worked well, and it was actually lower than if it were on the upper links. And then you can again mount the servo on the stock tray.

Lots of options, but your stick pack is hurting you right now.

Just trying to help.

Cheers.

[Kanine38]

Originally Posted by Terranaut

Not to discourage you, but that battery seems to be forcing you in all the wrong directions. Your mounting tray looks to made of steel? And you have raised both the battery and the servo quite high above the axle. These things, heavy objects high up, are bad news for your C of G.

The links will always cause the axle to rotate when flexing, this helps keep the pinion pointing toward the tranny but it will push your tray down onto the upper links, or up against that chassis crossmember too. You would need almost parallel and equal length upper and lower links to (maybe) avoid that, and it still leaves your battery and servo quite high.

Do you have the budget to go to a small LiPo battery? Or do you have the wherewithall to modify that stick pack to make saddle packs? Either of these will make it very much easier for you. You could mount the servo on the stock tray and put saddle packs either side of it, or a LiPo on top of it. Or you could make a new tray with the servo off to one side and the battery beside it, just above the axle pumpkin.

Another way is to mount that stick pack battery on the outside of the chassis just below the body posts. I used to mount a biggish 2C LiPo like that, with a bit of hard plastic wrapped around it for protection. Worked well, and it was actually lower than if it were on the upper links. And then you can again mount the servo on the stock tray.

Lots of options, but your stick pack is hurting you right now.

Just trying to help.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by PsychoCrawler

That looks like a good idea but from the pictures I can't see any way to get everything to clear; it's either gonna hit the links or the chassis brace.

Have you considered cutting that stick pack apart and resoldering it to make a split pack to go down on the axle? Or if you really want your servo mounted in that position you could rearrange the pack in any configuration that fits around it.

Thanks guys. Is there a thread about building a battery pack? I've never done it but it cant be that hard. What if i did a stacked up the batteries like 2+2+2
then I can cut the battery tray much shorter?
What if I take off the front brace and fab something that will allow the battery to clear?

I like this idea and I'm trying to somehow make it work.

[Kanine38]

Stick packs suck.

[Kanine38]

OK, I'm not giving up. I have swapped shocks and are running big bored up front, I have relocated the battery tray bracket, and am running the battery on it's side.







Once the liquid tape dries on the esc, I will test fire it and see what works/doesn't work.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Kanine38

Stick packs suck.

Yes they do. I'm currently using my old ones as paper weights and door stops.

I would find some way to get that brace back in there, even if its in one of the chassis holes behind the upper links. If it won't fit there, drill a couple holes and mount it where it will. Anything is better than nothing.

If you're getting too much throw out of your shocks, you can pull the shaft out, slip some fuel tubing over it, then put it back together. It will then be internally limited on how far it will extend.

That servo placement really scares me. I can see it getting wanged on a rock and breaking the case.

I feel your pain though, trying to jam a big ol' 6 cell into a little crawler is a chore. Thats why I went lipo as soon as I could and haven't looked back. If you do some smart shopping, you should be able to pick up a decent charger and a handfull of lipo's for $100 (or much less than that if you skimp on the charger). I know it may sound like alot, but its totally worth it once you've got it.

[Greatscott]

Just curious... Why do you still have the three screws in the servo plate that mount it to the axel? I would bet everything is secure enough just being mounted with the screws that hold the servo mounts.

I agree that you battery is the root of your problems. You could get a good split cell 2/3 C NiMH for around $25 bucks that would sit nicely on your axels.

One of these would do:
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Crawl...r-p-16679.html

Having said that, nice job thinking outside of the box and making your own parts!

[Kanine38]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Yes they do. I'm currently using my old ones as paper weights and door stops.

I would find some way to get that brace back in there, even if its in one of the chassis holes behind the upper links. If it won't fit there, drill a couple holes and mount it where it will. Anything is better than nothing.
I have the brace on the inside of my body mounts
If you're getting too much throw out of your shocks, you can pull the shaft out, slip some fuel tubing over it, then put it back together. It will then be internally limited on how far it will extend.
I think the big bore shocks should limit enough.

That servo placement really scares me. I can see it getting wanged on a rock and breaking the case
I hope not...

I feel your pain though, trying to jam a big ol' 6 cell into a little crawler is a chore. Thats why I went lipo as soon as I could and haven't looked back. If you do some smart shopping, you should be able to pick up a decent charger and a handfull of lipo's for $100 (or much less than that if you skimp on the charger). I know it may sound like alot, but its totally worth it once you've got it.

If I broke my batteries apart and made a saddle pack, does the black wire go from pos of one pack to the neg of another to continue the series connection or is there another purpose? I would like to take my pack apart and re-use what I have.
Also, does the battery havve to be discharged before building?

Originally Posted by Greatscott

Just curious... Why do you still have the three screws in the servo plate that mount it to the axel? I would bet everything is secure enough just being mounted with the screws that hold the servo mounts.
Overkill and I was thinking that it would stiffin up that servo mount so it wouldn't get metal fatigued as quick from abuse.
I agree that you battery is the root of your problems. You could get a good split cell 2/3 C NiMH for around $25 bucks that would sit nicely on your axels.
Why does everything for the ax10 have 1500mah? I would like at least 4000mah. Doesn't it make a diff or am I all screwed up?
One of these would do:
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Crawl...r-p-16679.html

Having said that, nice job thinking outside of the box and making your own parts!

Thanks.

[Kanine38]

Sorry guys. My responses are intertwined within your quesations and thoughts... I tried to change color and I eff'd that up.

[racenut]

it would work with a 2/3a battery pack.

[PsychoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Kanine38

If I broke my batteries apart and made a saddle pack, does the black wire go from pos of one pack to the neg of another to continue the series connection or is there another purpose? I would like to take my pack apart and re-use what I have.
Also, does the battery havve to be discharged before building?

Exactly! Personally I run that wire up towards the deans plug and then back down to the other side of the pack. Doing that is just to make it look cleaner.

Nope. Since these cells have been run/charged together it won't hurt a thing. The only time you have to charge or discharge the cells is when making a brand new pack from loose cells.

[Kanine38]

Ok, so I opened up my battery pack and it was made in China(shocking) and the bars are spot welded. I had my soldering iron on them for awhile and they wouldn't come off. I just put it back together and I'll order a new one.

I do have the battery zip tied down and the steering reworked and it drives and steers well. Those rock lizard tires suck though.

Here's the last question... what is the max mah I can use on a stock esc?

I'm running 3300's now.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Kanine38

Ok, so I opened up my battery pack and it was made in China(shocking) and the bars are spot welded. I had my soldering iron on them for awhile and they wouldn't come off. I just put it back together and I'll order a new one.

I do have the battery zip tied down and the steering reworked and it drives and steers well. Those rock lizard tires suck though.

Here's the last question... what is the max mah I can use on a stock esc?

I'm running 3300's now.

Mah ratings are like sizes of gas tanks. The bigger the number, the longer the run time. You can go as big as you want.

[PsychoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Kanine38

Ok, so I opened up my battery pack and it was made in China(shocking) and the bars are spot welded. I had my soldering iron on them for awhile and they wouldn't come off. I just put it back together and I'll order a new one.

I do have the battery zip tied down and the steering reworked and it drives and steers well. Those rock lizard tires suck though.

Here's the last question... what is the max mah I can use on a stock esc?

I'm running 3300's now.

mAH are not limited, you can run a 10,000mAH if it would fit. That's basically the size of the "gas tank". The more you got the longer it'll run.

As for the bars welded to your cells, forgot to mention those, sorry. I just cut the bars between the cells to get them loose, then use new bars to put them back together or use 12 gauge solid copper wire. The tabs that are left on the cell makes it easier to solder without heating the cell too much. Haven't had any problems yet.

[Kanine38]

Originally Posted by PsychoCrawler

mAH are not limited, you can run a 10,000mAH if it would fit. That's basically the size of the "gas tank". The more you got the longer it'll run.

As for the bars welded to your cells, forgot to mention those, sorry. I just cut the bars between the cells to get them loose, then use new bars to put them back together or use 12 gauge solid copper wire. The tabs that are left on the cell makes it easier to solder without heating the cell too much. Haven't had any problems yet.

Should I wrap the individual cells if I am going to put them side to side?