K.O.M.'s Newbie Comp Build

[provin1327]

Yup I am still reading all the FaQ's and stickys, as well as asking my buddy who also has an axial and a losi. To the op, the build is looking great.

[K.O.M.]

Originally Posted by gunnar

...edit...Or you'll get frustrated and quit....edit...

Speaking of that, how about making some courses that the shafty guys can get through past gate #5 (or I could just drive better). Anyways, I think I've had some frustration in ANY segment of the r/c hobby that I have been through, though not as frustrated as Roksloski--I heard he can try out to be an MLB pitcher with that throw.

[gunnar]

Originally Posted by K.O.M.

Speaking of that, how about making some courses that the shafty guys can get through past gate #5 (or I could just drive better). Anyways, I think I've had some frustration in ANY segment of the r/c hobby that I have been through, though not as frustrated as Roksloski--I heard he can try out to be an MLB pitcher with that throw.

If I get to make a course on Thursday, I want to make it progressive, every rig will clear the first two gates, but they might not make the last two

Every build I do I get frustrated, but that's my fault. Sloski needs some 300's, then he'll be happy

[K.O.M.]

I've actually had this mod done a while back after doing a little bit of researching and anticipating that I may have some clearance issues with fitting the Vanquish dig and having the links in-board of the chassis. The problem being that the skid mounted links will interfere with the dig housing. You could simply add maybe 4mm worth of spacers under the transmission, but then it wouln't mount flush. The stock skid is a bit concave, so the transmission mounts "in" the skid. The TCS skid is flat, so even with the links in-board, they clear the dig housing just fine.

Very simple and straightforward mod, just followed the directions on the packaging. I could have gone with the East End Machining skid, but this was in the bargain bin for $10, so I couldn't resist.


This is what's in the package. There are longer bolts so that one can take the linkages attached to the axles and in-board those as well. I chose to leave the axle attachment points as wide as possible to maintain some triangulation. If you were to use the suggested link placement, all the lower links would be parallel with each other and that just leads to some axle steer and less precision.



Before: Again, out of sequence photos, so still has the Integy motor system installed.



After



Before




After


From previous build: $782.25

TCS Delrin Skid: $10

The bottom line: $792.25

[K.O.M.]

More stuff that I have not been able to post, now I have time, so here they are:

The high clearance rear links are great, but I still found that the rear driveshaft would occassionally high-center and then I'm off my intended line, so I took a look and it is indeed below the plane of the links.



You can easily change this angle by adding a spacer (I had a few extra in my AX10 kit) on the rear upper tri-link:


Before


After


Rear axle is tilted up, driveshaft is out of the way



Next up was fixing the caster angle of the front c-hubs. In the first photo below, notice that the steering kingpin is angled forward, meaning the wheels actually pivot behind the center of the tire contact patch. This means that you are actually getting less steering with regards to how the tire pivots on the ground. Ideally, you would want the kingpin vertical (or slightly tilted back for higher speed cars). The ruler is just there for vertical reference.



By moving the upper link mounts on the chassis like below, you can tilt the kingpin angle back to something more desireable.


Before


After


Kingpin angle fixed.

From previous build: $792.25

Mods in this section: $0

The bottom line: $792.25

[K.O.M.]

With the stock chassis and link/shock geometry, there is some room to get more steering throw. I've actually played around with Axial's BTA kit in another project, and while it has quite a bit more throw than the stock setup, you'll end up rubbing the shocks and links quite a bit unless you get custom offset wheels.

If you have upgraded the stock c-hubs and knuckles but didn't get the high clearance or BTA kits, there is still a way to eke out a bit more steering from stock geometry alloy replacements.


Knuckle hitting the c-hub screw.


I ground down the inner mounting slot so it can accept a flat head screw.


Just a bit more steering--every little bit counts right? With this mod and the Rovers, the tires do rub the lower links and shocks at full lock--which is about what people are reporting with standard offset wheels.

I think that this might be the final update to this rig. There is still a progression to be made, but I think now we're talking about more suspension tweaks and that includes 4-link set ups and anti-squat. While I'd like to explore that option, you could easily spend a lot of time chasing a setup and totally messing up the geometry--I would prefer to get a complete chassis kit from someone that has already worked this out

From previous build: $792.25

Mods in this section: $0

The bottom line: $792.25

[provin1327]

Great advice on spacing the rear upper tri-link. I also put bent lower control arms on my axial and was noticing the same problem, thank you for the tip

[whiplash]

Thank you for taking the time to document this build and all your mods ,the time and frustration that a post like this saves someone just starting out is incredible ,this is going to put me over the edge to getting a crawler to compliment my trail rig ,thanks agin

[K.O.M.]

Since it's about time for me to move on from this project, I would just like to say thanks for the help that I got from fellow members of this forum. If I missed your name, then I apologize.

chino925--for mounting/re-mounting my tires (and not breaking my car when I let you drive it), tool borrowing, general harrassment

AlphaQup--link parts and rod ends, dig setup tricks

gunnar--expert coaching and the awesome body mounts

mann0mann--for some of the great deals in your store AND having a crawl course to test/break stuff

Hobby Town Concord, CA crew for building/maintaining our indoor crawl course and for having a regular Thursday comp



What I've learned:

The AX10, though getting on in age, is still quite a capable crawler. With a slew of Sportsman comps popping up, a wide range of chassis to choose from, and tons of aftermarket support, it's a viable crawler to buy, specially at the discounts that they can now be had.


Initial Setup:

Don't cheapen out on your running gear. The hardest part about ANY hobby is that there is a point where you have to spend some money in order to fully enjoy the experience. To all the new(er) crawler drivers, please don't get frustrated if your AX10 RTC with stock electronics and a heavy stick pack can't even make the first climb on a comp course. You need a minimum investment in order to really have even the stock chassis perform to its potential. You'll also be able to sell this faster if you do decide you don't like comp crawlers. My recommendations:

-3 ch. 2.4gHz radio system--3rd channel is there for a dig system if you decide to get it

-high torque metal gear servo--some say the Hitec 645mg, but from my experience, that's not enough; I would say Hobbico CS-170 or Tower TS-170, or just go for the Hitec 79XX series and be done with it

-3s lipo batteries--get them between 850-1100 and no larger; yeah, longer run times are nice, but you'll have to mount this battery somewhere and the bigger the pack, the harder it is to stash away in a low point on the crawler

-ESC that can handle at least a 3s lipo, have a cutoff, and drag brake; brushed/brushless is up to your, but brushless setups are expensive (the good ones); look at the Tekin FXR or Holmes Hobbies BRXL;

-Castle Creations BEC--just makes sure that everything is working even if your crawler is in a bind

[Big Bill]

Thanks for the build thread K.O.M. I have built four or five comp. and scale rigs over the past few years, and I picked up quite a few new tips from your build. I just got a used WartHog frame set to build a Sporsman rig I WILL be using your thread as a guideline.

[K.O.M.]

I have quite a few PM's in the last few days asking about how to upgrade their AX10. Well, pretty much answered how I ended up upgrading/modifying my AX10, but if I could do it all again knowing what I know now, heres how I would go about upgrading:

1. Tires w/ weight and get the battery/electronics off of the stock battery plate
2. Driveshafts
3. Knuckles and C-Hubs (good time to get that BTA kit)
4. Front Universal Joints
5. Get more steering (see #3 above)
6. OD/UD gears or dig (still would run either the OD or UD gears with the gears--both if you are not planning on installing a dig)
7. Suspension/link geometry

[strawb]

this thread is not only inspiring but the attention to detail in performance is phenomenal .......

the tweeks and adjustments you pointed out in this thread is a good eye opener for newbies like me for things to watch out and look for while upgrading ....

[1tuff40]

Well done on the build thread mate

As most people have said, its a great bit of info for those just starting and how to build an AX10 without spending a fortune, to make it strong and capable.

[RC Dude]

thanks for the info, this thread really helped me on my crawler since i am a newb

[Gardetto]

Now that you have learned to build a rig you need to learn to stop pre- running the courses


Jk ...at the end of August I will be holding a comp at HT for my Daughters club (RockCandyRcc ) and there will be some shafty lines

[K.O.M.]

Originally Posted by Gardetto

Now that you have learned to build a rig you need to learn to stop pre- running the courses

I'm just trying to see where the hitch hiking trolls were hiding, they got in gunnar's truck pretty good, in fact so good he had to toss his truck on the ground a few times to to shake the little guys out.

[Gardetto]

Originally Posted by K.O.M.

I'm just trying to see where the hitch hiking trolls were hiding, they got in gunnar's truck pretty good, in fact so good he had to toss his truck on the ground a few times to to shake the little guys out.

[idealhobbies]

It's an older thread, but I found it very helpful. This should really be a "sticky". Thank you for your effort KOM. Thank you CHUD for directing someone else here.

[Swampthing444]

Thank you K.O.M.! Like a couple of others on the thread, I took a break from RC and discovered crawling recently and bought an AX10. I had a ton of questions on what I needed to do to it (going slow is new to me!) and found your thread when someone suggested it to another newbie (like me) on another thread. I can't wait to do some of the things I've learned here, but the wife is already chasing me around the house with a stick with the money I'm dumping on my next new expensive hobby! Great work, thanks again and I second the sticky suggestion.

[goose ae]

Thanks for making this thread. I'm new to crawling and this is helping alot