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Old 05-22-2010, 07:28 PM   #1
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Default ax10/RC/crawling noobie

i've tried reading up as best as i can but as usual i just end up more confuzzled. i'm hoping you guys can help out.

although there is a decent RC following there isn't really a big crawler scene where i am so the local hobby shops can't seem to offer advice other than telling me to get the most expensive stuff they have. and online purchases aren't really my first option as shipping to where i am is quite pricey. for now the idea is just to crawl/play around in my backyard with my kids and chase my cats. if i'm hooked then i will upgrade.

i have a brand new ax10 RTR on the way and most of you know it doesn't come with a battery or charger. so i guess i'm in the market for a 7.2 nimh battery with the tamiya connector right? what should i look for in a battery and charger set up?

from what i've read the stock electronics of the RTR are barely enough for the ax10. when i decide to upgrade the ESC and steering servo, what should i be looking for?

i really appreciate any help or advice you guys have.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:26 PM   #2
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Default battery and esc

hey there a standard venom 1800 mah pack will do to get you started out

and for when you go to upgrade your esc you have a few choices. theirs the novak crawler system and
the team tekin crawler pack both about the same price just a matter of opion hope this helps
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:17 PM   #3
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Welcome to your new obsession... BREAK OUT THE CHECK BOOK!!!!

A stick pack will do fine for powering it, but you'll find yourself on your lid, a lot. The cheapest setup is to get a couple of 2/3 C split packs and mount them on your front axel.
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/TCS-Crawl...r-p-16925.html
You have the option for 6 or 7 cell, recommend 7. When you really want to get froggy you can move up to LiPo.


You'll want something for the batteries to sit on:
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/On-Sale-8...h-p-16614.html

Steering servo:
Metal gear with at least 200oz of torque. A lot of us run this guy...
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Hitec-HS-...e-p-16189.html

There are all kinds of ESCs and EVERYONE has their favorite, here are a couple of things to look out for:
-Drag brake, you want a good one
-Input voltage, I love my Rooster Crawler, but I can only run 8.4volts, recommend getting an ESC that will take a 3S liPo (11.1v).

Hope this helps!!!
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:50 PM   #4
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Stick packs really are a waste of money. Lipo's are comparative in cost, same goes with chargers. You can spend as much money as you want for either, but there is no need to go all out.

The 1300mah lipo's I comp with run about $25 each, and will power my hungry energy sucking motor for 20 - 30 minutes. Plus they are small and I can put them just about anywhere I would want to.

The charger I have runs about $80, and can handle many different types and sizes of batteries.

So for less than $150 you can have two batteries and a good charger and run your truck for about an hour.

Or, you could buy a cheap $15 nickel battery, a cheap $30 charger, and get less run time, more weight where you don't want it, less mounting options, and terrible center of gravity.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:31 AM   #5
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thanks everyone for the replies. regarding lipos, would i have to change the stock electronics if i were to go that route?
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Old 05-23-2010, 09:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noogles View Post
thanks everyone for the replies. regarding lipos, would i have to change the stock electronics if i were to go that route?
You will replace them eventually once you figure out there are much better options. Right now the only thing you need to be careful of with the stock esc is not letting the lipo's discharge too far (they can't be run down flat like nicd/nimh can). You can either be attentive and shut it down when you notice a loss of power, or purchase a lipo cut-off to protect the battery.
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
You will replace them eventually once you figure out there are much better options. Right now the only thing you need to be careful of with the stock esc is not letting the lipo's discharge too far (they can't be run down flat like nicd/nimh can). You can either be attentive and shut it down when you notice a loss of power, or purchase a lipo cut-off to protect the battery.
cool thanks. looks like i'll go the lipo route. so i look for the same voltage (7.2)? and anything special about lipo chargers i should be getting?

edit: found an answer to the voltage question Stock esc vs 2s lipo...

gonna search for the charger answer

Last edited by noogles; 05-23-2010 at 06:32 PM. Reason: .
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noogles View Post
cool thanks. looks like i'll go the lipo route. so i look for the same voltage (7.2)? and anything special about lipo chargers i should be getting?

edit: found an answer to the voltage question Stock esc vs 2s lipo...

gonna search for the charger answer
Good job using the search button!

For chargers I use the Duratrax 230 (about $80). It'll charge just about anything you would need, but does require a balancer. Keep in mind the type of balance plug that you'll need...not all lipo's have the same style.

There are some chargers with built in balancers, so look around before you settle on anything.
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
Good job using the search button!

For chargers I use the Duratrax 230 (about $80). It'll charge just about anything you would need, but does require a balancer. Keep in mind the type of balance plug that you'll need...not all lipo's have the same style.

There are some chargers with built in balancers, so look around before you settle on anything.
will do. thanks again
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:12 AM   #10
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picked up the ax10 RTR from the post office today. was so stoked and i went straight to the LHS to try and get lipos and charger.
all they had were these no name brands and the guy at the counter seemed pretty clueless. eg. two similar models but were priced about 15 bucks apart. i asked what the differences were and he said that they're the same and one charges faster. upon further inspection it turns out the cheaper model is DC only and the other one is AC and DC.
i looked at batteries and they had 2s in only 850mah or 5000mah and over. didn't really leave me with any option other than leaving. man i really wanna play with this thing! (that's what she said)
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:31 PM   #11
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You know about hobbyking or hobbypartz right? I bought 2 1800 2s 20c, 1 1800 3s 20c, and accucell 6 charger for under 80 bucks, shipping included
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Old 05-26-2010, 01:42 PM   #12
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If you're a new guy don't get too deep until you know you love crawling. I opted for grabbing 7.2V NiMH 2/3A cells for 18.00 each through cheapbatterypacks.com

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/ind...6D0&sid=406859

After you love it then you can go all out on top shelf batts, motors, escs, radio, and servos.

Last edited by makaluch; 05-26-2010 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 05-27-2010, 01:14 AM   #13
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i just ended up with nimh for now for the exact reason makaluch said. picked up a length of stainless steel rod to reinforce the wet noodle links. we'll see how it works out.
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Old 06-05-2010, 06:24 PM   #14
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I've pretty much decided which route I want to go with my ax10. I'm going the 'rock racer' route ala Bender in his thread here RTR AX10 Gone Rock Racer........

Couple of questions as usual.

Would I benefit much from using a digital hi torque servo?

Am I still supposed to keep the weight up front and low or can I spread some weight over the rear axles?

Any thoughts on this chassis? http://cgi.ebay.com/Axial-AX10-Scorpion-aluminum-rollcage-chassis-SCP14RR01-/280510696642?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item414fbd 8cc2

Any why does my rear right wheel 'wobble'?
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:15 AM   #15
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well at least to the answer of the servo. A stronger more torque servo will help you keep the tires pointed in the line you want to go. Even under the stress on being on or going over rocks etc.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:08 AM   #16
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One of the first mods most of us do is add some weight to the front and back wheels. You want more in the front than the rear. A quick search will bringup many threads on this.
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:17 AM   #17
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youll also want to bring the battery off the top of the crawler if you havent dont so. upgrade to a small lipo pack or you can get a saddle nimh pack and place it over the front axel
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Old 06-11-2010, 10:11 PM   #18
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I moved the battery lower and forward and it made a dramatic improvement. Trimmed the stock foams and added weight to the front wheels using some soldering wire. Punched two holes in the front tires but I haven't had a chance to try those mods out yet. Beadlocks own my fingers btw. Hot Bodies white dots are on the way.
Tried to source some tubing around my area to attempt to make my own links but no one had any. Ended up getting some delrin links off r2j. Went with a delrin skid plate as well.
The stock plastic shock caps keep popping off, so a set of aluminum shocks are on the way. Softer springs in front seem to be the general consensus.
To deal with the torque twist I'm going to go 4 link in the front and rear. Aluminum 4 link battery and servo mount in front and the rear will get a regular 4 link plate.
Traxxas t-maxx shafts with Traxxas output yokes are on the shopping list in the likely case of the stock drive shafts take a crap.
A CPE servo is on the way. Pretty cheap to pass up.
I'm still trying to figure out what ESC and motor combo I'd like to get. Will probably end up going with a tekin and 35t motor. Or maybe a Torquemaster combo.

So yeah. Thoughts?

Last edited by noogles; 06-11-2010 at 10:13 PM. Reason: i'm such a forgetful fool
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:27 AM   #19
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Sounds like a few hundred bucks on that wish list...lol.

Stick with a crawler-friendly ESC and a brushed 55T motor. You don't need to spend a fortune on your power systems...spend it on servo, drivetrain, tires, and geometry (in that order). Or, don't spend a dime and wait for the XR10
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