My Frogger Buildup

[jhghah]

Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS

Well, it does come out of the wife's wardrobe.

You got an email. Hope that chassis works out for ya.

Casey

Sharing is always nice. And thanks again for your time.

Jason

[2500hdon37s]

BTA will certinly help a lot, another you might try is out boarding your shocks if the caps dont bind on chassis

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by 2500hdon37s

BTA will certinly help a lot, another you might try is out boarding your shocks if the caps dont bind on chassis

The shocks will get outboarded, and a new Delrin skid will be on order to move my links more inwards. I still have a couple more ideas up my sleeve too.

Casey

[KC_JoNeS]

So, I found this super hard line that I could not pass on. I kept trying and trying, but could not get up this due to the angles. I gave it a bit too much throttle, and it launched cartwheel style to flat ground. Cool. So, I try to take off, and it is hung up. That is about the time when I notice that my back right tire had landed in a fresh pile! NICE! I managed two full revolutions in this crap and got it all in my crap lizzards. I guess the name fits after all.

I am just praying that it was dog sh*t and not other.

This landing was serious points. I think I scored a 9.7 with the judges. I managed to strip out the right tie rod end. Oh well...I have plenty. Who sells some BEEFY tie rod ends?

Casey

[rockerrc]

casey if at all possible I would flip those shocks over and do the mod to them by adding a tie end to the cap. it lowers the c.o.g and keeps them from leaking.

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by rockerrc

casey if at all possible I would flip those shocks over and do the mod to them by adding a tie end to the cap. it lowers the c.o.g and keeps them from leaking.

I have contemplated this...however, I dont quite understand what you mean by adding a tie end to the cap.

Please enlighten me.

Casey

[rockerrc]

Take the shock cap off and cut off the mount, then drill a hole in the center of the cap, thread it and put a button head screw from the inside thru the cap with some rtv around the thread on the screw to seal the threads so oil can't escape. Screw a tie end on the outside of the shock cap put back together invert shock and put back on crawler here's a picture of one of mine hope this helps. Another upgrade is c-cups from(jeepindoug) keeps the spring from popping out of it's seat and loosing spring buckets.
Side note I guess it's not the cap but the shock housing in this case but other shock you can do the caps on them!

[KC_JoNeS]

Yeah, right on! Thanks for that. That is seriously right next door to pimpin'!

EDIT: I am looking at my stock crap shocks, and they have really nice cups and ends...I am going to try to swap those onto my comp shocks. They are stout.
The comp shocks come with really bad spring cups that rest against a rubber bumper...the stockers for the RTR come with cups that are like a press fit onto the end.


Also, got to go get some longer 3M x 35 screws tomorrow to mount my links inside and turn the comp shocks upside down.

Casey

[rockerrc]

take carful not to go to deep when cutting off the mount that area is pretty thin there where you will put the button head screw. I think it's a 3mm screw in side and it fits nicely in a recessed hole in side so there wont be any interference with the piston movement. it works great!

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by rockerrc

take carful not to go to deep when cutting off the mount that area is pretty thin there where you will put the button head screw. I think it's a 3mm screw in side and it fits nicely in a recessed hole in side so there wont be any interference with the piston movement. it works great!

I am not going to do this mod just yet, as it requires me to find some good tools such as a tap. I have had the hardest time trying to find GOOD tools here in China. I am sure you know what Harbour Freight is? Well, those are good tools compared to the crap I find here.



I will keep looking. There has to be a decent tap somewhere here.

EDIT: kind of curious..I have my shocks upside down right now for testing, and I cant really see a reason to modify the caps. Is it for clearance? Is it so you can run your links right next to it?

Casey

[rockerrc]

it also frees up some binding with putting a ball at both ends lot more movement

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by rockerrc

it also frees up some binding with putting a ball at both ends lot more movement

Gotcha. Thanks for all the input bro. Much help for sure.

[gunnar]

A tap isn't needed for the shock cap mod, just get some replacement rod ends that fit 3mm screws, they should self-thread right on.

[jhghah]

More great info I have been trying like hell to find a ball that fits the losi correctly and has a 3mm hole for the mounting. With no luck. This is the perfect solution.This site just gets better.

Jason

[rockerrc]

Originally Posted by gunnar

A tap isn't needed for the shock cap mod, just get some replacement rod ends that fit 3mm screws, they should self-thread right on.

true I didn't need a tap just used the button head screw it self to thread it.

[KC_JoNeS]

Thanks for the help gents. I have a few replacement plastic caps that I can practice on. I would hate to ruin my only aluminum caps.

Casey

[Crawling Calvin]

If you want beefier rod ends (yep I am getting sick of eating the 3Mm's down low ) et some Jato rod ends, they are longer than the stock ones but a little dremel or hacksaw work later... and it should work. I hear Revos work but they are shorter so its up to you. The rod ends also need to be re-drilled and tapped for M4x.7 (use a #30 or 3.3MM drill for the job) That said, chassis looks BAD

PS: Get some rovers...

[KC_JoNeS]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

If you want beefier rod ends (yep I am getting sick of eating the 3Mm's down low ) et some Jato rod ends, they are longer than the stock ones but a little dremel or hacksaw work later... and it should work. I hear Revos work but they are shorter so its up to you. The rod ends also need to be re-drilled and tapped for M4x.7 (use a #30 or 3.3MM drill for the job) That said, chassis looks BAD

PS: Get some rovers...

Thanks for the info. I will look into beefier rod ends this weekend. The one I stripped was a 3Racing end.

Also, I have some Proline Chisel tires with memory foam being delivered today. Going to try those out.

[Crawling Calvin]

Gotcha, I have had the stock rod ends but I sorta mangled the insides up by accident so it is "no wonder" they "died' on me Whatever, that's life.

What is the skid on that thing, I pray it insn't metal because it is *THE DEVIL* for crawling (sticks like mad )

Chisels are ok, you may need to take a dremel to them to soften them up... who knows though, some like them, some hate them (im neutral having never run them...)

Ever wire up the car yet with a BEC or

[KC_JoNeS]

Yeah, the skid is metal...and it does stick like glue to everything.

But, I will order up an STRC Delrin skid pretty soon, and that should solve the issue.

Also, on the BEC side...no. My 2 BECs that I bought are actually ESCs with built in BECs. The packaging was misleading. They are for choppers. I have a CC BEC and link coming to me next month. I will sort it all out in the beginning of August when I also install my HH motor and ESC.

I hear you on the tires. I got a deal on them, and could not pass them up. It is hard to say what tires will work here, as my terrain is very loose. I will post up results when I get them.

Casey