Freds Tuber

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by fred0000

edit: aslo the "outside" tire apears to turn alot sharper then the "inside" tire, is that normal with highsteer knuckles?

You can tune some of that out by running a few degrees of toe out, meaning the wheels are slightly pointed to the outside like this...\ /.

It'll help when you turn.

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by ax-10 crazy

With correct ackerman that is correct, but with zero deg knuckles they turn the same at all times.

PS:How is that 55t motor and did you get it from shavers?

correct ackerman has the inside tire turn sharper, hence why i'm asking if mine is ok



i've never run the motor before, i've always wanted to try one so I decided I might aswell, I will review it after its been tested, i'm unsure how it'll hold up with a 19 or 21 t pinion, i'm used to running a 14, but i'd like a bit more wheelspeed, I did get it from shaver's.

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

You can tune some of that out by running a few degrees of toe out, meaning the wheels are slightly pointed to the outside like this...\ /.

It'll help when you turn.

i've thought about doing this I will try it as is, as it seems to be an improvment over stock, and try toeing out if neccisary, thanks

[Duuuuuuuude]

Mine is toed out even though its right without the adjustment. Seems to hold a line better when turning.

[rockn]

Originally Posted by fred0000

I was super excited to get my BEC, it meant that I could go crawlin again with something other then my scaler, so I wired it all in lastnight, its hard to stuff all that crap into one of these things, it'll get an overhaul/cleanup once the rainy season pics up, the tin can skins are all torn up i'll be re-doing it with plastic file folder's a color sceme is in the plans, but i'm not saying till I know for sure, not sure if the beadlock rings and links will take well to paint.

anyway I took it out for a crawl today and had a major breakage within 15min. I usualy bring my spare set of CVD's and spare driveshafts, but never C's this is the 3rd stock MIP pin i've broken, the half-pin that was left slid out and came around and snapped the C at the same time, the sound was amazing.
while it was running the steering servo was a huge HUGE upgrade, I can do things I could only ever dream of before, doesn't even feel like I need dig anymore, I can wiggle the front end and slide it downgrade to get it pointed where I want, and use it to shift weight very easily and prevent tips that would just end bad normaly, very excited. I will get it fixed and take it out toamrow, Gunnar's pins are going in this time

Ive never broken this part yet but Ive seen alot of people break it. Funny you guys must have gotten lemons

[shelby]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

You can tune some of that out by running a few degrees of toe out, meaning the wheels are slightly pointed to the outside like this...\ /.

It'll help when you turn.

So doing this could help you turn better? Could I do this by just making my steering tie rod bar longer?

[fred0000]

thanks for the tips Duuuuuuuude

Originally Posted by rockn

Ive never broken this part yet but Ive seen alot of people break it. Funny you guys must have gotten lemons

CVD pin slid out and took it out I havn't seen to many break.

Originally Posted by shelby

So doing this could help you turn better? Could I do this by just making my steering tie rod bar longer?

yes, I will likely add a longer spacer in place of my 2 little ones, I need those little ones for something else that I had forgot about.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by shelby

So doing this could help you turn better? Could I do this by just making my steering tie rod bar longer?

It could, but too much can hurt you. Try using small washers or spacers between the rod end and the tie rod to experiment with the lenth. You don't need a lot.

[fred0000]

just wanted to say thanks alot for the help, I removed the 2x2mm shims and added 1x6mm shim, it appears to be the proper length tierod now, looks like no toe in or out, and both hubs steer to way more now might still try a hair of toe out, once i've tested it.

pics soon, I just finnished up the front axle, didn't do the beef toobs yet but thats ok, they arn't going anywhere, i'd like to do the front and rear at the same time anyway

[fred0000]

got it temporaraly assembled in the chassis, looks pretty goof to me, except my wheelbase is pushing 12 7/8"





and new steering angle pics

[fred0000]

I test drove it this afternoon with everything just taped on, the steering seems to work, but somtimes when turned to the right the servo seems to stall out? and not want me to do anything till I let off the throttle, to the left there are no issues. the servo got quite hot too. I'm not sure my setup is very friendly to the servo especialy turning left. as this causes the draglink and hightsteer arm to be in a straight line, I could see this being very demanding of the servo since it has almost no leverage at that point. (you can see if in the last picture in my last post) as much as I dont want to, I think I will be returning to OEM style steering knuckles till something can be figured out, my servo has never gotten that hot, and i've run back to back packs through it for 2+hours. my BEC is set at 6.5 volts, going through my reciever.

[Onebdgti]

So how does it crawl with the 4 link compared to the 3 link Just wondering cause im ready to fab me up some plates.

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by Onebdgti

So how does it crawl with the 4 link compared to the 3 link Just wondering cause im ready to fab me up some plates.

its only got a front driveshaft in it right now, and everything is just taped on, only for testing i'll come back with some more info once its been tested on some rocks.

I did start cutting new skins, these feel like they will hold up much better, i'm using some plastic file folder I got from wal-mart instead of tin cans.

also thinking I might need some driveshafts, the integy CV shafts I have are in rough shape, the slot for the CVD pins are rounded right out on a few of the yokes, i'll use them as I look for another option.

[fred0000]

so skins are cut and installed, now its down to laying out the electronics, I dont really want to mount the battery to the top of the rear links again, but it seems like I might have to



complete skins





atleast 1 good thing about the bad weather, I have lots of time to work on my crawlers

[ROCKWHORE]

Originally Posted by fred0000

atleast 1 good thing about the bad weather, I have lots of time to work on my crawlers

why do you never come out when its nice then

o yeah thats right you cant get your ass out off bed

[ROCKWHORE]

o and nice skins

[fred0000]

Originally Posted by ROCKWHORE

why do you never come out when its nice then

o yeah thats right you cant get your ass out off bed

Originally Posted by ROCKWHORE

o and nice skins

that was not my fault no one called next time i'll make sure my alarm is set right.

thanks, I like them alot better then the tin cans, feels way more sturdy too, shouldn't be tearing the zip ties through very easily now

[fred0000]

did some re-wiring today, the signal wire castle decided to use is better suited for the inside of a cell phone, that shit was brutal, I wanted to trim the length of my BEC singal wire anyway, so I used that to replace the tiny factory wires. also removed my on/off switch, didn't see the point in having it with a BEC, I also added a plug inline the battery wires for the BEC since castle-link doesn't like to "see" the BEC if its attached to my sidewinder.









I wish I had shortened the BEC power wires but oh well, i'm sick of soldering!

now I can start finding a place for all this in my crawler

[fred0000]

IT MOVES, it drives it crawls

heres a couple test flex pics.





yes, I made my RTI ramp out of oak. I was bored at work.

[fred0000]

I was doing some reading and found out my recievers can run on up to 7.4 volts, so I will be upping the voltage output on my BEC (good thing I put that plug on there ) to 7 volts. I run it at 6.5 right now and its good, so I don't want to push it to the limit, I don't to kill the gears in the serve since I cheaped out and went for a steel gear unit

I also got a digital scale while it was still onsale and weight my crawler. it is much lighter then I expected, and the weight bias is better then I thought considering the amount of weight I have in the front wheels compared to the rear (pic on page 1)

Total: 6 pounds 7.7oz



Front:



Rear: (note no battery)