Cliffhanger's FF-4 build in process

[cliffhanger007]

i'm going to make new links and move the bent a bit forward after tires.

To clock drive shaft you mean to by the clockable c hubs for drive shaft right?

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

i'm going to make new links and move the bent a bit forward after tires.

To clock drive shaft you mean to by the clockable c hubs for drive shaft right?

That is for the front, to move the caster back to a good angle, the rear you clock with the upper links only. No need to worry about clocked angle in the rear, it has no effect on steering.

[cliffhanger007]

but i don't need clackeable c in front if i'm going to buy mip shafts right?
Those mip look great

c's are 28$ and mip like 50 better to go mip stronger drive shafts

[flapjack]

no clockable c's wont be necessary yet....not until you do a bentlink setup in the front......but no not yet....oh and the mip shafts are awesome....mine have been bullet proof

[cliffhanger007]

Got today Tekin FX-R -T combo and need help with seting up on hot wire any one can help me with the set up please?
Using ParkZone 11.1V 1300mAh Li-Po battery and got the BEC from castle whats the proper hook up for that?
Also i'm going to use VP dig with mini servo.
What's the best mini servo for VP dig?
Thanks

[Aggie01]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

but i don't need clackeable c in front if i'm going to buy mip shafts right?
Those mip look great

c's are 28$ and mip like 50 better to go mip stronger drive shafts

C hubs are connected to the front axle. This is the part that the steering knuckles are connected to.

Clocking your axle is when you rotate the whole front axle unit up so that the pinion points up towards the tranny. This gives you better clearance on the rocks and your MIP drive shaft should be straight.

Once you have your axle clocked so that the pinion is pointed up and the drive shaft is straight. Then you will want to clock your C hubs back to improve steering. Otherwise your tires will steer pivoting to the rear a bit, which makes it difficult to steer on steep inclines.


I hope that makes sense

[cliffhanger007]

a new update just bought today VP Dig Hitec 7955 steering servo and hitec 5245 mini servo for VP dig
And HB rovers blue

also receiver Gunnars body mount thanks a lot man very nice work Scott.

Now just need to put all together and it will be time to rock and crawl

[PipeDreams]

Next time try and grab some whites instead of blues.... you'll like them!

Things are coming along... I don't run dig and I too only have at most 1/2 inch of rear drive shaft engagement and they work fine... they're mip! Bomb proof lol

[cliffhanger007]

Ok so here is my update on the build

put in
- Tekin FX-r 55T combo
- Vanquish Dig
- SR3500 DSM 3-Channel Micro Racing Rx
- VP plates fron and rear
- got HP rover whites
- hitec HS-5245MG servo for dig
- CC BEC will be set to 7.0V
- LD Racing Products AX10 BTA Steering Kit for VP Knuckles on the way
- VP High clearance knuckles on the way
- Axial C -hubs on the way
- Axial rear strait axle lock out will get soon

- Gunnar beeftoobs will get soon
- 3Racing CVD's will order soon
- Hitec HS-7950TH High-Voltage Mega Torque Digital Servo

[thomas]

looks awesome!! now go scratch it up!

[nutoscaln]

Have you had it out on the rocks yet?

what shocks are those, do you lie them?

what shoes you putting on this rig

[Aggie01]

WOW thats a lot of wires. You may want to try mounting your RX on top of your dig servo. It will clean up your wiring a lot. That's the way BillJ and DickyT had theirs, so I followed suit with mine.

[cliffhanger007]

Originally Posted by nutoscaln

Have you had it out on the rocks yet?

what shocks are those, do you lie them?

what shoes you putting on this rig

No i haven't try it at rocks yet having problem servo glitches and after all led's light up!
This are traxxas big bore shocks.
I got on HB Rovers whites

[cliffhanger007]

Originally Posted by brian3323

WOW thats a lot of wires. You may want to try mounting your RX on top of your dig servo. It will clean up your wiring a lot. That's the way BillJ and DickyT had theirs, so I followed suit with mine.

I got servo conector crimping tool so now there is way less cables

[cliffhanger007]

will receiver so close to lipo cause to esc to start flashing with all led's?

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

will receiver so close to lipo cause to esc to start flashing with all led's?

I wouldn't think so, but its possible. All led's flashing typically means there is no signal from the tx.

[cliffhanger007]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

I wouldn't think so, but its possible. All led's flashing typically means there is no signal from the tx.

hmm what this mean?DX3R is mest up?i tried to calibrate both(esc,dx3r) it all runs for like 3 min than dig sero start to go from 2wd to 4wd and lock and front servo will twitch and than esc will lock on all led's flashing.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by cliffhanger007

hmm what this mean?DX3R is mest up?i tried to calibrate both(esc,dx3r) it all runs for like 3 min than dig sero start to go from 2wd to 4wd and lock and front servo will twitch and than esc will lock on all led's flashing.

I kinda worded that wrong. It means its not seeing a signal...so its either the esc, rx, or tx thats causing the issue.

I would try moving the receiver since you think it is suspect and see what happens.

Are you using a bec? Are all your connections good? No cut or damaged wires? Do you have any components that you can swap out to test?

[cliffhanger007]

yes i tried to bind the rx from ax10 to sc10 and it works no problem.
I'm now wiring like randy told me and ccbec going directly to bind/bat and from esc connection i pulled out the red wire.But now i can't hold bind if i unplug battery and plug in again i have to rebind and after that works good.

ANY IDEA WHY I LOOSE BIND EACH TIME I UNPLUG LIPO????

[cliffhanger007]

still the same issue, this is driving me nuts!