Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech > Heritage Crawlers > Axial AX-10 Scorpion
Loading

Notices

Thread: Cliffhanger's FF-4 build in process

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-10-2010, 01:47 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default Cliffhanger's FF-4 build

So i started to build mine FF-4.
Got a question for DickyT:

I'm starting making mine links today and wondering if you have any pictures of yours rig i saw the revision 2 pictures and noticed that you have the stering servo facing inside the rig how do you manage to steer both sides?

Also where i can buy the shock mounts for rear axle?

And what are yours final lenghts for the links?

Thanks man if you can post some pictures that will be great thanks cheers.

Hera are some pictures.Will put links together today and the FF-4 chassis and decided to go with Big bore shock since i'll take the of my Slash,need to convert front ones to xxl long shock body which i got yestrday.Hopping to by done soon.




Last edited by cliffhanger007; 09-15-2010 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Cliffhanger's FF-4 build
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 09-10-2010, 02:34 PM   #2
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Valley Village
Posts: 304
Default

DickyT is at, "Nationals"...

Here's your "Razors"
http://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDetai...01044&CartID=2

You can also buy at Vanquish Products.
http://www.vanquishproducts.com/vp-s...nt-razors.html

You'll also have to cut front servo plate to run a BTA.
I'm sure some one will chime in. Good luck.

Last edited by cornsnake; 09-10-2010 at 02:41 PM. Reason: More411
cornsnake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2010, 11:24 PM   #3
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

Did some more work today did the delrin rods and drill holes using Doug's bushings and they work like a charm(if u need some follow this link Link Drill Bushing)
Next will be to build shocks and then i'll go onto top links.

Any one knows how to measure top links?What's the proper procedure when making top links?

Also what shock oil to use40 all around?and which spring are the best for big bores?(made by who?part number?)

Will apriciate anyones input this is my very first crawler so there is always ? in the air

Also which shock position is the best and which hole for top and bottom in the front and rear?








Last edited by cliffhanger007; 09-11-2010 at 12:09 AM.
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2010, 12:14 AM   #4
sim
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 374
Default

Your acetal rods look long and slender. Don't they flex?
sim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2010, 12:29 AM   #5
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

they flex little they are short so they are a bit stiffer compare to full length 4'

The front one are 4 1/4" from middle of the eye to middle of the eye on other side of the link and rear is 5 1/16" from middle to middle of eye
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2010, 12:30 AM   #6
No idea what I'm doing
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
Default

Looking good so far, but your chassis is backwards...the long ends go towards the rear.

C*H*U*D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2010, 07:33 PM   #7
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default almost done

build shocks today,put them on now i just need to build upper link anyone can help me out how do i messure them and from where to where?Thanks a lot

cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2010, 08:45 PM   #8
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

i rebuiled shocks and put in 25 oil all around.
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2010, 09:28 PM   #9
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Erin, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 471
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffhanger007 View Post
now i just need to build upper link anyone can help me out how do i messure them and from where to where?
Well, this is how I do mine:

I take two things into consideration when measuring out upper link length:

1. Pinion angle throughout the travel range of the axle.

2. The link mounting positions on the chassis and axle that I have chosen to use.


Narly1
Narly1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2010, 12:26 PM   #10
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Narly1 View Post
Well, this is how I do mine:

I take two things into consideration when measuring out upper link length:

1. Pinion angle throughout the travel range of the axle.

2. The link mounting positions on the chassis and axle that I have chosen to use.


Narly1
What you mean by Pinion angle throughout the travel range of the axle ?
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2010, 01:44 PM   #11
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,927
Default

He means so it doesn't bind when the suspension moves. That can happen if its to extreme, I (personally) like to run mine in a near straight line up to the transmission since it "tends" to work better and not get hung up as much. That said, just do it by eye and go from there Remember to "measure twice, cut one"
Crawling Calvin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2010, 06:15 PM   #12
No idea what I'm doing
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
Default

I like to aim my rear driveshaft straight at the transmission, or just a bit higher. Once you have it set, measure the distance from your rear axle link mounting location to the upper link mounts on the chassis...I like to use dividers for this. That will be your rear upper link mount length.

The front is a bit more complicated, since your pinion angle will also effect your caster. For this, I suggest setting your caster angled back just a bit. Then measure again for your front upper lengths. The front lengths can be adjusted to change your caster angle as you start to figure out how you want your truck to steer...part of the tuning process that everyone enjoys so much
C*H*U*D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2010, 06:59 PM   #13
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,927
Default

I forgot to mention that negative caster helps with steering (say -8-10*) I have had good results with the "axle tubes" that KC Jones is making, they are handy since you can clock to any position. Also the axial aluminum c's help, they are tougher . Other slight advantage of clocking the knuckles up is that the front "draglink" or "tierod" is less likely to bang into the rocks which is handy so you don't need a huge fancy BTA setup
Crawling Calvin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2010, 10:31 PM   #14
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

so i build my upper link today i'm using VP plates for front and rear so for front 2.669" long(from eye to eye) and monted on front row on VP plate by the center and 3 hole on the frame from the bottom of the chassis.

Rear ones ar 3.648" long and they are monted on front row by the center and on the frame 2 hole from the bottom of the chassis.

The same link positions on the frame as DickyT's hope that i saw good in those pictures.

Can't wait to take it for spin :o)

Is those links appropiate length or I'm way off?
Need to buy some screws to attach them then i'll post some pictures tomorrow.

Last edited by cliffhanger007; 09-12-2010 at 10:40 PM.
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 10:41 AM   #15
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default Build done

I have finnished build now i have to put some electronics in place!
I used in this build:
VP rear plate
VP servo/battery plate
Delrin from McMaster Carr 1/4" part#8497K133
5/16" part#8497K153
Doug's bushings
Traxxas Revo large rod ends part# TRA 5347
RC4WD 4mmx20mm set screws

remain to install
Tekin FX-R & 55T motor
spectrum SR3500
Tunder power lipo

and here are some final pictures


























Last edited by cliffhanger007; 09-14-2010 at 10:48 AM.
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 11:11 AM   #16
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
Default

Looks good, but those upper links are too short, your pinion angle on the axles is very steep and may cause some binding. Try to get the center shafts as straight as possible, no hard angles at the axle. If you look in my FF-4 thread there are photos that show how straight my center shafts are.

For the front you will need to clock your C's back or the positive caster will give little steering on climbs.
DickyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 11:22 AM   #17
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

ok thanks so u mean the longer the upper links are the more they will push onto frame so theaxle will get straigter(more in level with the ground)?

And how do i clock the C's?

Last edited by cliffhanger007; 09-14-2010 at 11:28 AM.
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 11:28 AM   #18
Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave
 
gunnar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
Default

Pretty wide angle on the uppers also, looks like your close to maxing out the travel on the rod end ball at the chassis. I'd lower that chassis mounting point down one or two holes also.

Don't look at my FF-4 thread, you'll go crazy.
gunnar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 11:52 AM   #19
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffhanger007 View Post

And how do i clock the C's?

You need to get the clockable C's to do it. I have the Axial ones on my rig, and gunnar is right, do not use his build as an example, it may may your brain do flips, it did mine.
DickyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 01:01 PM   #20
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver,Canada
Posts: 212
Default

Ok so i tried to do upper link biger by udjusting rodends and deepness off the set screw and what i find out is tha if i make rods longer both plates front and rear are turning(angling) towords ground.So i don't know if making them longer would be a solution.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
cliffhanger007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com